the haynes manual says some cars have hex and some have torx, so you need to look at it.

 

FYI, if the belt shredded, it's probably because either the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley froze. Check them before replacing the belt. Also, you really don't need tools to replace the belt. The tensioner is simply spring loaded, so all you have to do is get the belt in place except for the last pulley the flat on that rides on the back of the belt). Pull on the belt and let it compress the tensioner pulley spring for slack and slid it into place.

 

Typically the tentionsers have an inverted torx on the end of the shaft.
The shaft doesn't turn.
Once you get the airbox etc out of the way.
Put the correct size inverted torx on the shaft and pull the tensioner so it releases tension.
You'll need to hold it so it helps to have a 2nd person, one to hold it and one to thread the belt in. Your owners manual will have the belt diagrams.
I don't know if you have one belt or 2, but if one shredded might be a good time to do the other.
As Rudney pointed out, check all the pulleys and tensioners.

Turn the new belt by hand with a socket wrench, requires a large socket for the crankshaft before you start it.

 

This is from an M111 but will give you the idea

If your pulleys are sloppy/noisy/seized, and they are like this, the bearing replacement is really easy. - the bearing on plastic idler pulleys probably can't be replaced (not on the M111 anyway)

Oberoi