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ML500 w163 Fuel Challenge - How to Disconnect Fuel Lines when buried ,?

4.1K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Noodles  
#1 ·
Hey everybody - how's things ?
Hope this finds you well - if you're NOT doing a Fuel Filter on your w163 - you're doing ok lol.

Seriously though, I'm knee deep into mine - been idled for a few weeks over this but now the ML500 is stripped down - rear seat out, carpet up, pump top off / exposed, lines off at pump & LR wheel off / fender liner out.

The way MB buried the filter makes it near impossible to push the tabs & pop off the Fuel Line connector on the Left (forward) end.

Also the smaller diameter vent line is stubborn as can be.

Was wondering if there was any way to push on the line up at the front to buy some slack back at filter - this COULD aid in removal by allowing room to actually grasp connector, which now seems impossible.

Here's a brief video look at my precise issue.

I'd totally appreciate any input !


TY - David in Texas
 
#2 · (Edited)
I ended up breaking some lines and then replacing the line with new ones.
I recall seeing the fuel line drawing in a older post, let me see if I can find it.
The fuel line wrench is available and is an option.

 
#4 ·
My mechanic knows... I just laid out $2k to get P0455 fixed. Mech says updated fuel filter, lines needed, esp as last mechanic messed up those clamps without proper tool (danger will robinson). RE: the line back to front - there are 4 left in the country, two rejected by my mechanic because the ends were broken as delivered. That leaves two of 163 476 21 01 - I paid $97. Other items replaced: Fuel pump 163 470 35 94 $400, fuel filter 163 477 08 01 $124, fuel line 163 470 28 64 $47, fuel line 163 470 37 64 $60.

But no more gas smell at driver's rear wheelwell ;)
 
#6 ·
Great input guys thanks. Let me respond in rough order:

- I'm hoping to NOT break any lines.

I do have a wrench, but it's a generic one, and not as well designed as the MB one.

Plus - say comparing that wrench to the quick video Witek posted with the 'how to release MB Fuel line clamp' - with yellow connector:
Those are the exact style of the main clamps on the Fuel lines to Fuel pump.
(And, presumably the other end of those two lines to Filter itself - I can't tell just yet)

But the main 2 that are giving trouble are very different - that 'fuel line clamp wrench' won't fit them - the sliders are different - and - as stated already above, the tight positioning of the filter on top of frame rail with the super short (no slack) Fuel line to engine - that connector is the 'Bug-bear' that is near impossible - SO FAR - to remove.

The smaller diameter 'Vent line' one that is towards rear of filter and kind of points outward - that is still a 3rd type of connector that has - as does the other - two opposing sliders that seem to stubornly not move under finger pressure.

Here's my plan:

- I like the suggestion of using some WD-40 to clean / lube up clamp. Maybe even get tooth brush with hot water to gently scrub the gritty crust that HAS to be in clamp edges, first, then hit with WD-40

- I COULD probably see if any pliers exist in my drawers OR at Harbor Freight, that would be narrow enough and properly spaced to press both tabs at the same time.

- I think I wasn't pushing tabs + pushing connector towards filter, then pulling back. I read a thread where that was a key to removing them.

- I will try to do the rearward small vent line first - it's less 'buried and once it's off - the whole filter should be able to 'swing' outwards leaving only the 'engine feed line' one left to disconnect.

- what BETAPI says in post #4 should warn us: the supply of these lines is drying up: so other solutions MUST be re-engineered.

Frankly, I don't see why 'normal' fuel line & clamps cannot be used. One thing is sure:

If I broke an end connector, I would immediately go down that road.

Initially the question is:

Do you replace entire length of fuel line

OR

Just measure OD of existing hard plastic line & find which 'Gates' brand or other High quality fuel line that slides over the existing plastic line, and will slide over the corresponding barbed (it's not really barbed) port on the Fuel filter ?

OR

Does anyone KNOW if there is a source for the raw parts to fabricate a 'new' plastic line that incorporates the proper connectors already used by MB ?

Hmmmm....

TY - David
 
#7 ·
PS: I just did a quick Google search querying this question:

how do you repair a factory nylon plastic fuel line with broken off end connector ?

I got a TON of information back. Apparently this is far from an Uncommon issue - so we should maybe 'study up' on this.

So here's the search link. Note when you put this question in, wait a sec and you should see a drop down list of all the similar searched questions and it's amazing the variations, but same thrust:

 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok I've worked out a repair approach.
Took lots of reading / research.

What our w163 appears to have is 8mm Nylon Fuel Line, with barbed plastic O ring & angled end connectors.

The 8mm line is known also as 5/16" line. It comes in normally 10' or 25' lengths. Amazon has several suppliers, and Dorman Brand is most popular.

If one is just doing a simple splice - as in making a cut in a straight section of existing OE line - say to pull the old fuel filter off - then on a bench remove the hard to access on the car connector
C A R E F U L L Y, in that case one may only need an 8mm Dorman Quick Connector to re-splice the line back together once New Fuel Filter is swapped onto removed & replaced "Stub".

I'll post the Amazon link for this neat part.
(This is really a gasoline resistant 5/16" 8mm "Shark bite - PEX" plumbing connector)


Ok the Dorman 800-302m
"Metric Fuel Line End Connector Kit"
"SHOULD" have some or most of the connector our MBs require.
A call to Dorman to ask might be wise as kit isn't cheap at $127.


Also AutohausAZ listed a German Pierburg Metric Fuel line repair kit for a bit more $197 but it has some short 8mm Tubing pieces included.
Again, calling them could verify how much that kit is MB specific !

There was a Dong Feng eBay kit that said specifically "For Mercedes Benz"
It looked to have the exact 45 degree Quick fitting on the "Output to Engine"

It's not cheap either at $120

Ill add a picture of that listing.

More later - David
 

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#10 ·
More Intel:

I hit up O'Reilly's Auto today to see their coil of 8mm (5/16") Nylon Fuel line.

I'm 90% sure that's what runs forward to feed the engine.

It IS possible it 10mm (3/8") I can't know for certain until I remove the "Undercover Rock Guards" on the underside of body to expose a long straight run of it.

Im praying it's easy to see, measure & cut it there, to aid in Fuel Filter removal.

FYI: the rubber traditional 5/16" Gates full line fit snugly over the 8mm Nylon Fuel line, showing me one could easily patch up a cracked area OR say if you buggared up an end connector, patching from the end of the Nylon line to the Forward Fuel Filter output port (it fits decent there) but both ends would require clamping to resist the 60 psi fuel pressure.
 
#12 ·
Brilliant input Witek thank you Sir !

Will be of help to rectify this situation.

Its very nice that we have repair options - multiple:

- Re Do the Nylon ala OE (One of us needs to figure which EXACT part # is on each port)

- Even the rubber 5/16 line (avail everywhere) was nice tight fit over the 8mm nylon plastic line. I'm sure that if clamped properly it would be leak free. This would be an option as long as all your End fitting pieces are leak free & intact.

Actually, the 5/16" standard rubber Fuel line was a 'not super tight' fit on Filter Output port. It would be a test to see if tight clamps would make a leak free connection there.

I have that clamp set one of you all posted a few months back.

Via Amazon where they're Stainless steel Factory style clamps of various sizes up to 1.5" and you fit closest one & then crimp one section, pulling it up very very tight.

Used them to fabricate new lines on my w210 Tranny Cooler - they're holding like a champ.

Of course, cold snap has brought my outdoor project to a halt.

If we can beg a 60 degree day, maybe progress ?
'
Cheers - David
 
#13 ·
Brilliant input Witek thank you Sir !

Will be of help to rectify this situation.

Its very nice that we have repair options - multiple:

- Re Do the Nylon ala OE (One of us needs to figure which EXACT part # is on each port)

- Even the rubber 5/16 line (avail everywhere) was nice tight fit over the 8mm nylon plastic line. I'm sure that if clamped properly it would be leak free. This would be an option as long as all your End fitting pieces are leak free & intact.

Actually, the 5/16" standard rubber Fuel line was a 'not super tight' fit on Filter Output port. It would be a test to see if tight clamps would make a leak free connection there.

I have that clamp set one of you all posted a few months back.

Via Amazon where they're Stainless steel Factory style clamps of various sizes up to 1.5" and you fit closest one & then crimp one section, pulling it up very very tight.

Used them to fabricate new lines on my w210 Tranny Cooler - they're holding like a champ.

Of course, cold snap has brought my outdoor project to a halt.

If we can beg a 60 degree day, maybe progress ?
'
Cheers - David