I just bought a 04 ML500 with 72k on it. The truck is super clean and nice. I paid the dealer, left and went to fill up with gas. I filled up with premium, and started it up and a 2900 code came across the dash. No other lights or warnings, and the beeping stopped and off I went. The following time I started the truck, there was no code and it was fine. The next time I got the 2900 code again. Now, I had to get gas again today, when I started it, I got a 3000 code. The truck runs and drives fine, can anybody tell me what this code is ?
jeffdoerr
LOL, I believe the FSS is sending a message. Dealer probably did not reset it.
But until then drive with the sunroof open in case the ejector seat deploys.
But until then drive with the sunroof open in case the ejector seat deploys.
I'll try to help.
A "code" is the term used for "diagnostic code" obtained from the onboard system, and for most owners means using a code reader plugged into the OBD port on the underisde of the dash to get the "codes", although some MB sepcific diagnostic codes cannot be obtained unless a MB licensed diagnostic system is used to read them (like the dealers SDS system).
As outlined in the Owners Manual - what you most likley have have is a "FSS dash indicator" from the onboard Mercedes FSS (Frequent Service System) which indicates when you are due to change the oil (which is preset for 10K mile intervals based on corrrect MB recommended 0W40 Mobil One and use of the MB fleeece oil filter).
This 10K # in use can go down to a lower # based on sensor factors, you are probably 3000 miles over recommended oil change - but it is not uncommon for a general purpose shop to change the oil and not know how to reset the system
Rest instructions are also in the owner's manual, the basics:
The Flexible Service System calculates in both miles and time, how long before you need to service the engines oil. Simply press the mileage button 2 times and you will see this displayed on the dash (which should be the same # roughly as you have been seeing).
Your Key Switch has 4 detents or positions.
Position 0 – Locked Wheel – Engine Off
Position 1 – Wheel Unlocked – Engine Off
Position 2 - Wheel Unlocked – Engine On – This is where you normally have the key when driving
Position 3 – Wheel Unlocked – Starter Engaged
The reset procedure:
1. Turn Key in steering lock to position 2.
2. Immediately press button (1) twice within one second.
3. The present status for days or distance is displayed.,turn key in steering lock to position 0.
4. Press and hold button (1) while turning key in steering lock to position 2 again.
Continue to hold button (1).
After approx.10 seconds a signal sounds and the displayshows 10000 .
5. Release button (1).
This WHOLE post could is a waste of time, since this info and more is contained in the owners manual.
If you don't have the owners manual download a pdf copy from MBUSA:
Mercedes-Benz - Home of C, E, S, CLS, CL, SLK, SL, R, GLK, M, GL, G Class - Service and Parts - Owners Manuals
Actually - find a local MB indendent to inspect your car, that $200-$250 investment willl save you $1000's in future repairs by giving you a professional non-baised detailed inspection of your new prucahse and key you into both the positives and also key you into any future problems to nip in the bud right now.
2004 was a very solid build year, you should have a nice truck, at 72K in decent shape a good indie can keep it running smoothly for years to come, but if you trat your ML like a Ford or Chevy it will bite your butt for sure.
Your ML, assume 3rd row, should have been around $13K at a used car dealer, and a bit under $12k from a private party. Again, get a indie inspection to protect your investment.
Keep the faith !
A "code" is the term used for "diagnostic code" obtained from the onboard system, and for most owners means using a code reader plugged into the OBD port on the underisde of the dash to get the "codes", although some MB sepcific diagnostic codes cannot be obtained unless a MB licensed diagnostic system is used to read them (like the dealers SDS system).
As outlined in the Owners Manual - what you most likley have have is a "FSS dash indicator" from the onboard Mercedes FSS (Frequent Service System) which indicates when you are due to change the oil (which is preset for 10K mile intervals based on corrrect MB recommended 0W40 Mobil One and use of the MB fleeece oil filter).
This 10K # in use can go down to a lower # based on sensor factors, you are probably 3000 miles over recommended oil change - but it is not uncommon for a general purpose shop to change the oil and not know how to reset the system
Rest instructions are also in the owner's manual, the basics:
The Flexible Service System calculates in both miles and time, how long before you need to service the engines oil. Simply press the mileage button 2 times and you will see this displayed on the dash (which should be the same # roughly as you have been seeing).
Your Key Switch has 4 detents or positions.
Position 0 – Locked Wheel – Engine Off
Position 1 – Wheel Unlocked – Engine Off
Position 2 - Wheel Unlocked – Engine On – This is where you normally have the key when driving
Position 3 – Wheel Unlocked – Starter Engaged
The reset procedure:
1. Turn Key in steering lock to position 2.
2. Immediately press button (1) twice within one second.
3. The present status for days or distance is displayed.,turn key in steering lock to position 0.
4. Press and hold button (1) while turning key in steering lock to position 2 again.
Continue to hold button (1).
After approx.10 seconds a signal sounds and the displayshows 10000 .
5. Release button (1).
This WHOLE post could is a waste of time, since this info and more is contained in the owners manual.
If you don't have the owners manual download a pdf copy from MBUSA:
Mercedes-Benz - Home of C, E, S, CLS, CL, SLK, SL, R, GLK, M, GL, G Class - Service and Parts - Owners Manuals
Actually - find a local MB indendent to inspect your car, that $200-$250 investment willl save you $1000's in future repairs by giving you a professional non-baised detailed inspection of your new prucahse and key you into both the positives and also key you into any future problems to nip in the bud right now.
2004 was a very solid build year, you should have a nice truck, at 72K in decent shape a good indie can keep it running smoothly for years to come, but if you trat your ML like a Ford or Chevy it will bite your butt for sure.
Your ML, assume 3rd row, should have been around $13K at a used car dealer, and a bit under $12k from a private party. Again, get a indie inspection to protect your investment.
Keep the faith !
thanks for the good answers. I am not used to the added features. I am a domestic vehicle guy and other than the POS Saab Vector I had, this is my first foreign brand, even though this is built in Alabama.
The dealer (non-MB) had run it through some quick change place and they put 10w-30 conventional oil in it, and according to the sticker, I am good for another 1000 miles. I am a big synthetic promoter and will be running schaeffers 9000 series in it as soon as I get a chance.
I also just experience the BLOSE condition. Was a long commute today, hour with nothing to listen to. Gonna look for the fuse tomorrow.
Also, anybody familiar with the funky 1-2 shift ? What RPMs should I see at 60 mph ? I am seeing around low 2000's.
thanks again.
The dealer (non-MB) had run it through some quick change place and they put 10w-30 conventional oil in it, and according to the sticker, I am good for another 1000 miles. I am a big synthetic promoter and will be running schaeffers 9000 series in it as soon as I get a chance.
I also just experience the BLOSE condition. Was a long commute today, hour with nothing to listen to. Gonna look for the fuse tomorrow.
Also, anybody familiar with the funky 1-2 shift ? What RPMs should I see at 60 mph ? I am seeing around low 2000's.
thanks again.
Look, no offense intended ... you never have said whether you have the owners manual or not, and if you did have it then you would have read that when power is restored to your radio you will need the anti-theft radio code.. but since you want to talk to yourself in your own head by yourself...it doesn't bother me what you think you know and what you really don't know, and right now you have a lot of both.
The spec oil is 0W40 Mobil 1, if you want to search on the forum for about that spec for that particular brand and weight that would be a good choice, or follow your own circular thinking again about Schaffer's oil for a Ford Truck motor... again it doesn't bother me.
Now, if you want to search the forum about your tranny, or go by what you know about Ford/Checy/Didge trannies, again it doesn't bother me.
The 722.6 tranny has a suspect connector (but you probably don't want to mess your discussion with yourself), and also has a EZ self-reset reset procedure to factory defaults, but hey what stop talking now and learn about that 3 minute procedure.
Oh yeh, thank's guys you have been a lot of help but I have to go because I hear his mother calling !
The spec oil is 0W40 Mobil 1, if you want to search on the forum for about that spec for that particular brand and weight that would be a good choice, or follow your own circular thinking again about Schaffer's oil for a Ford Truck motor... again it doesn't bother me.
Now, if you want to search the forum about your tranny, or go by what you know about Ford/Checy/Didge trannies, again it doesn't bother me.
The 722.6 tranny has a suspect connector (but you probably don't want to mess your discussion with yourself), and also has a EZ self-reset reset procedure to factory defaults, but hey what stop talking now and learn about that 3 minute procedure.
Oh yeh, thank's guys you have been a lot of help but I have to go because I hear his mother calling !
wow. Thought I was on a beamer forum for a minute. forgive me for not getting a manual with this used vehicle. I had simple questions, was looking for simple answers, not a snobish retort. This is my first small MB, the last one was a diesel. Maybe you need to get your nose down outta the smog. You are quick to assume.
Jeff, I mentioned in my first post it was a service reset issue. Sorry if it got lost in the thread.
Anyway if there is conventional oil in there please get the Mobil 1 0w40 European oil
in there sooner than later. I am also willing to bet the quick change place did not
change the filter, because 95% of them to not keep element style filters for MBs in stock.
At this point no harm has come to the truck, leaving that 10w30 in is not doing it any
good. Once you put the Mobil 1 in with a OEM quality filter you are good to go for
a long time. At least 5,000 miles and based on my last used oil test my oil was still
plenty good at 8,000 miles according to the Blackstone lab report.
Anyway if there is conventional oil in there please get the Mobil 1 0w40 European oil
in there sooner than later. I am also willing to bet the quick change place did not
change the filter, because 95% of them to not keep element style filters for MBs in stock.
At this point no harm has come to the truck, leaving that 10w30 in is not doing it any
good. Once you put the Mobil 1 in with a OEM quality filter you are good to go for
a long time. At least 5,000 miles and based on my last used oil test my oil was still
plenty good at 8,000 miles according to the Blackstone lab report.
You can download your owner's manual here (PDF). You can buy your oil filter here.
autohausaz.com is a good place for parts. Mercedes Benz of Ft. Lauderdale is a good place for dealer only parts.
autohausaz.com is a good place for parts. Mercedes Benz of Ft. Lauderdale is a good place for dealer only parts.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
