Yes I am familiar with steps 1 and 2, thank you. But my scanner doesn’t allow me to select Mercedes. It picks it up on its own. It’s one of these innova 6030p ones. I can check some live data but didn’t see anything about cams
M276 Camshaft Adjuster replacement
61 - 80 of 178 Posts
The bolt on the crankshaft is 23 mm? I keep seeing other post about different sizes.
I believe it’s 27mm
Are you able to isolate the start-up rattle to a specific bank?
No because I didn’t take the intake off. Still waiting on gaskets for when reinstall. I was gonna wiggle thru and try to look at 3/4 cam sensor holes but I’m just gonna wait until the gaskets come in. I was looking on fcp euro and found the cam valve from another German company for $96 cheaper than MB brand. Any experience with them? Or should I go with the MB brand?
Attachments
If I was to guess u would say it’s coming from driver side. That side is easier than passenger side right?
Forgive e for this question but with the helper holding camshaft from the back, is he the one that makes sure the cam doesn’t move out of timing or position while I remove the cam valve and adjuster? Or does the cover keeps it in place and he’s just there to use his counter-hold abilities?
This what you will be replacing. You don’t necessarily need to replace the center valve bolt that you showed, unless it is damaged or you think it hopelessly clogged with oil slug.
I would not start any disassembly until you have a diagnosis. That said, you could consider an upgrade of your scanner. I use an Autel ML 629 scanner ($100-125). Just a decent basic scanner which you can use it as either OBD2 or Manufacturer specific scanner. Therefore I was able to pull the P002177 Mercedes specific code which pointed me in the correct direction before I ever turned a wrench. Otherwise you’re probably going to get in deep fast. There’s more to cover with you for this job, but I think a correct diagnosis is step 1 before you proceed.
That scanner will give me hidden codes that this current one isn’t picking up?
Yes, I believe so. There are manufacturer specific codes that the generic OBD2 scanner will not support. The Autel unit I told you about supports both OBD2 and specific manufacturers from the US, ASIA, and EUROPE. It does support Mercedes.
Scanner came and code found real simple P002177 like what you got I believe. So I would be basically following the same steps as u? I have been trying to get the full WIS but my laptop doesn’t have enough memory for the VM. I tried buying a 500gb HDD and putting the files on there but still no success. I have a server that I can set it up on but I just can’t type on there smh. Trying to find a way around that. But step 1 diagnostic is complete. I have new intake gaskets and need to order the camshaft adjuster and and T100 bolt.
With the cam cover still on, how difficult was it for u to complete the job? How many helpers did you have and what was the most difficult steps?
Attachments
I found a seller on eBay for the oem part. Few hundred cheaper than dealer and fcp euro and has excellent reviews as far as genuine oem and quality goes. I did plan on doing this job with the cam cover on. But with only one definite helper and a possible 2nd I’m trying to get the safest approach without care for the hours I will invest in the job.
eBay
Attachments
That is fantastic news! Now you’re talking.
I only had one helper, my wife. Getting the WIS manual is great, too. I would only buy the adjuster from either FCP Euro , or the dealer. Do not buy it on eBay. I can’t tell you how many frustrated repair experiences, I have read on forums with shit parts purchased on EBay. Trust me, you don’t want to risk using a shit part on such an important internal engine part on a Mercedes. You will regret it. It’s your engine timing, it could be catastrophic if it’s wrong. So now, you know that the part you need is intake/Bank 2. Read up on removal of the vacuum pump at the rear of B2 (drivers side). With your ordering , include a new sealing o-ring for that pump. Plan to order the 8 aluminum bolts for the front cover because they are one time use. (Do not over torque them when putting the cover back because the head will shear off the bolt and you’ll be drilling aluminum on your valve cover …. bad day. Get WIS loaded on a computer as a reference guide, especially for all the torque values. You’ll need the sealant for the front cover. Read the instructions carefully in WIS for the sealing procedure on the cover. You don’t want any oil leaks when the job is done. You’ll need to tool up with two 1/2 “ driver breaker bars, torque wrench to get you as high as 130 Nm and probably a second torque wrench for as low as 5 Nm. I would suggest 1/2 “ drive for the large torque wrench and 1/4 “ driver for the small torque wrench. You’re going to need the proper tool for the oil housing cap removal. Plan to replace the oil filter when your done. So that’s part of your order as well. Are you planning to replace the chain tensioner(s)? I probably would for both banks. However, there is a test you can perform on the tensioner to determine if it still good. Read up on it in WIS. The most valuable advise on this job is have plenty of new rolls of blue shop towels, and whenever you remove a component that exposes a port or opening into the engine, protect it right away with a shop towel packing. For example, the 6 intake ports when your remove the plastic intake cover, or when you remove the front cover, it will take 3 or 4 towels to properly close the timing cover space that the chain disappears into. Also, when you remove the oil filter, stuff that opening with 2 towels. Look at the picture I sent you and you will see all the blue towels protecting internal engine openings. Expect the unexpected piece or part to possibly drop on this job. The towels are your insurance policy!
Make sure you also inspect your camshaft magnets and your camshaft position sensors for evidence of oil intrusion into the electrical plug. Replace any that are wet with oil. Double check yourself on this . If you have this issue, FCP has the sacrificial harness pieces for these parts to prevent further damage to the wire harness and potentially the ECU from oil intrusion?through the harness. I bought them for my engine ( M276) and I have them on my M272. If you send me your email, I will send an additional set of valuable notes to do this job successfully. Good luck.
Excellent advise. Chineseium is also softer metal, so the adjusters will fail far quicker than original. Now, someone with CNC could make plates in adjusters out of harder steel, or weld up wear point with stainless then CNC plate back into shape. But I've only found this being done on the V8 engine adjusters. So, best to either go to Mercedes or FCP Euro for your parts. Side note, DO NOT use click type torque wrench, calibration varies on click type can break aluminum bolts thinking you're under torque but actually over. Beam type is less money, electronic is several hundred dollars, so choose wisely. Dielectric grease on seals helps prevent damage on installation of cam sensors and magnetic actuators, many consider these parts "Wear Items" act they will leak oil at connector and wick oil to ECU or other sensors causing expensive repairs later. Only use Mercedes Chemical sealer, do not scrape surfaces, scratches will leak, Anaerobic works good on other applications and I'm a big fan, but I'm not taking the chance on my Benz. Hope this helps too, I you think I'm full of it, that's ok too, more than one way to get from point A to B.
I wanna thank you all for the valuable information. I definitely will look into an electronic torque wrench at least for the smaller nM parts. The larger ones shouldn’t have an issue achieving the right (or insanely close to right) torque specs with a click type torque wrench. Correct?
Sure, just make sure to stay under max torque setting and you should be safe. BTW, after 25 years of wrenching, I find I preferred the beam to others, A. No need to reset for different specs, B. Easier to watch readings and control pull as desired torque is reached. Yes electronic makes beeps as you approach, but I guess I’m old school, or just a cheap bastard.
how did you go about cleaning them? i am doing mine right now. on the ones that are closed i have had to 'chip' away large build-ups, getting them out and then spraying the chamber with brake kleen and swabbing it all out...it does a decent job but I would like to see it cleaner...any ideas?
Not easy, first you have to rotate the engine so the valves you are cleaning are 100% closed. Otherwise junk can fall on your pistons and cause damage. Professionals have a walnut blasting machine that cleans them like brand new. I don't have that so I used a variety of scrapers and took a 1/8" steel wire rod and bent the end into a little more than a 90* angle and sharpened it into a scraper. This worked well to get down there and pick off the hard carbon build ups. I took my shop vac and a 2' length of rubber heater hose, 5/8 size. I used duct tape to tape one end of the hose into my shop vac hose so now the shop vac had an extension of 5/8 heater hose. I could slip the heater hose down inside each port and maneuver it around each valve to suck out the junk. Tedious process, scrape, vacuum, repeat. Once it was pretty clean in there, I used WD 40 and a wire brush that fit in my drill. I went in with the valve wet with WD40 and the wire brush cleaned up to a finished product. They are not perfect but there is no carbon build up anymore.
I first tried using a cleaner fromt he local parts store, it said to soak it overnight and then it will clean right out. did not do much of anything so I made my scraper. Some large build up can be cleaned or broke loose with a screw driver but the hard to get to stuff I reached with the sharpened wire. I developed this technique on a GM 3.6L direct injected engine I worked on that had severed build up at 130,000 miles. My E350 did not have much build up at all and was simple.
I first tried using a cleaner fromt he local parts store, it said to soak it overnight and then it will clean right out. did not do much of anything so I made my scraper. Some large build up can be cleaned or broke loose with a screw driver but the hard to get to stuff I reached with the sharpened wire. I developed this technique on a GM 3.6L direct injected engine I worked on that had severed build up at 130,000 miles. My E350 did not have much build up at all and was simple.
61 - 80 of 178 Posts
