Have any of yall done or seen an LS swap in an W210? I'm thinking of starting an ls swap on my 2000 E320 and wanted to know if yall have any advice or recommendations on how to get this done.
Asimic
My guess is it’s cheaper and quicker to buy an E55.
Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles
1999 Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG, clean title w210 rare - cars & trucks -...
1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG Sedan RWD 5.4L V8 mated to 5-speed automatic transmission. Clean title,...
losangeles.craigslist.org
Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles
You’re underestimating the value of your time 
You’ll need a front sump pan for the LS.
I can’t imagine how you can use the key for the LS starter with EIS in the way but you can add a separate starter switch. I don’t know if the fuel pump will flow enough for an LS but at least the pump isn’t in the tank. Is the LS throttle by wire?
Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles
You’ll need a front sump pan for the LS.
I can’t imagine how you can use the key for the LS starter with EIS in the way but you can add a separate starter switch. I don’t know if the fuel pump will flow enough for an LS but at least the pump isn’t in the tank. Is the LS throttle by wire?
Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles
Not sure where you live, the parts for MB are dirt cheap if you know where to shop. Plus M113 is one of the most reliable engines MB ever made, right up with the M119 and OM606 of the older days. I would very happily challenge any LS series engines with a M113 in reliability contest.
My E55 has 270k. Alternator for E55 is the same part number as the E430 or E320. Same with intake manifold, or any other common parts.....and those can be had cheaper than the LS. Plus there's like dozen of MB models with the same M112/M113 engines made well into 2006 or 2007, and there are millions of them. My local junkyard is full of those cars.
Also you can buy a voltage regulator for just about any MB alternator straight from the dealer. $90 or so, cheaper online.
But ok, you do you. Not sure what you're gonna do about the ignition, or the electronics, or the transmission. Or the exhaust.
My E55 has 270k. Alternator for E55 is the same part number as the E430 or E320. Same with intake manifold, or any other common parts.....and those can be had cheaper than the LS. Plus there's like dozen of MB models with the same M112/M113 engines made well into 2006 or 2007, and there are millions of them. My local junkyard is full of those cars.
Also you can buy a voltage regulator for just about any MB alternator straight from the dealer. $90 or so, cheaper online.
But ok, you do you. Not sure what you're gonna do about the ignition, or the electronics, or the transmission. Or the exhaust.
I'd rather not have to "know where to buy parts when I can go to a NAPA or Autozone and get Chevy parts for cheap. I've already had to replace my alternator on my E320 and that was at 135k miles or so. Mercedes has never screamed reliability or low maintenance costs ever for me. On the question of wiring I am working with a shop that works with the ls in different platforms all the time. All of us have agreed that the most cost effective option is an LS as it is way more reliable and cheaper to maintain than a E55 motor.
This forum is also includes people like me who drive a 210 because it’s more reliable and costs me less to keep on the road than any Chevy I’ve owned (‘78 Impala 305, ‘97 Suburban 6.5td). I don’t hate Chevys, I just enjoy driving my E320 more and it’s the one I’d choose to drive cross country at this moment. That and my Chevys are long gone.
Consider your question from the perspective of the forum. It can come across as “I want to put a better engine in my car than the turd MB put in at the factory.” You didn’t say that, but that’s how it sounds to some. This forum is about keeping these cars intact. You walked into a steakhouse and asked for tofu
I wouldn’t take on the project myself but if you lived next door to me, I’d come over to turn wrenches with you and pore over wiring diagrams.
Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles
Consider your question from the perspective of the forum. It can come across as “I want to put a better engine in my car than the turd MB put in at the factory.” You didn’t say that, but that’s how it sounds to some. This forum is about keeping these cars intact. You walked into a steakhouse and asked for tofu
I wouldn’t take on the project myself but if you lived next door to me, I’d come over to turn wrenches with you and pore over wiring diagrams.
Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles
My reaction same as tabijan. Recently helped a friend get his ML320 back on the road and am currently doing the same with an E420. I grew up during the era when GM, Ford, and Plymouth ruled with their large displacement V8's. Still have a Chevy in the garage (my wife likes to drive) but the E320 gets all the serious trips on the Interstate. I will admit I have not been into a GM V8 in the past 10 years, nor do I intend to, but have found the quality and performance of the Mercedes V8's to be impressive. The W124 and W210 stock sedans can turn some surprising numbers on the road or track with a M119 or M113 V8. As tabijan so well stated, we wish you well with the project but most of us take pride in keeping something running like it did the day it rolled out of the factory.
I think an LS swap would be a great engine to put in the w210 if you have the right reasons and are willing to sacrifice some amenities. What are you expecting to get out of it? A high horsepower car with TONS of aftermarket support or a reliable daily driver? If you happen to want a simple daily I’d recommend an e55 as well.
I guess I do not get where you come up with MB parts are more expensive. f c p euro dot com and r m european dot com are 2 places with cheap OE/OEM parts. The M112/113 engines are some of the most reliable and easy to maintain engines made. In fact, it is the most reliable part of the 210. The engine will still be going long after the rest of the car has fallen apart so it seems odd to want to pull that out. What we typically see if the folks who part out perfectly good MB's to pull the engine out to swap into some other make of car. But, to each his own, just seems like a lot of effort to go thru for not much reward.
...I guess I do not get where you come up with MB parts are more expensive. f c p euro dot com and r m european dot com are 2 places with cheap OE/OEM parts. The M112/113 engines are some of the most reliable and easy to maintain engines made. In fact, it is the most reliable part of the 210. The engine will still be going long after the rest of the car has fallen apart so it seems odd to want to pull that out. What we typically see if the folks who part out perfectly good MB's to pull the engine out to swap into some other make of car. But, to each his own, just seems like a lot of effort to go thru for not much reward...
^^^^^
What he said.
To do this job right requires a lot of planning and engineering. Years ago in our Club (MBCA) there was a guy who had a W123 300TD with a Corvette Engine in it. This was 24 years ago, and more of a novelty than a serious-looks-and performs-like-a-factory job.
He did do well on the autocross, though.
Leaving our National meet in Portland IIRC he was sidelined with an electrical issue.
For a factory-type job our local car dealer took a brand new R107 off his showroom (in 1972 when they just came out) and over the next 10-15 years made enhancements to the M100 engine and its transmission (parted out from a wrecked 600)... 560SL suspension, I forget everything he did. But it was quite an undertaking to the point Daimler asked him if they could ship it over to look at.IIRC he said to build one yourself ;-)
He had widened the transmission tunnel, lowered the crossmember to fit the massive V8 inside...and 100 other things. I drove it once and called it a German Cobra. You could break the tires at 60 mph. It was a beautiful job but in driving it I thought that it wanted to kill me with so much performance.
40 years ago with all of his shop labor and parts spent easily $300K (those dollars - not now) on it.
Most of these conversions...well, anyway, good luck.
^^^^^
What he said.
To do this job right requires a lot of planning and engineering. Years ago in our Club (MBCA) there was a guy who had a W123 300TD with a Corvette Engine in it. This was 24 years ago, and more of a novelty than a serious-looks-and performs-like-a-factory job.
He did do well on the autocross, though.
Leaving our National meet in Portland IIRC he was sidelined with an electrical issue.
For a factory-type job our local car dealer took a brand new R107 off his showroom (in 1972 when they just came out) and over the next 10-15 years made enhancements to the M100 engine and its transmission (parted out from a wrecked 600)... 560SL suspension, I forget everything he did. But it was quite an undertaking to the point Daimler asked him if they could ship it over to look at.IIRC he said to build one yourself ;-)
He had widened the transmission tunnel, lowered the crossmember to fit the massive V8 inside...and 100 other things. I drove it once and called it a German Cobra. You could break the tires at 60 mph. It was a beautiful job but in driving it I thought that it wanted to kill me with so much performance.
40 years ago with all of his shop labor and parts spent easily $300K (those dollars - not now) on it.
Most of these conversions...well, anyway, good luck.
We do have long pictorial on the forum, where member fit Supra engine into W210 to make it ultimate sleeper.
From what I remember he was a body shop owner, so it was possible for him. Still his low estimate the job was worth $18,000 in labor.
Seek the topic for some guidance.
From what I remember he was a body shop owner, so it was possible for him. Still his low estimate the job was worth $18,000 in labor.
Seek the topic for some guidance.
To the OP, it's not a bad idea, as the Chev / GM engine is popular, ubiquitous and tons of parts are made for it, so modding for high HP isn't hard or unknown.
But as some have said, the X FACTOR is probably two fold:
1 - Integrating all the various MB systems that interface with the engine for management etc with the new drivetrain
AND
2 - Fabricating any mounts to facilitate the install including modding the w210 body to receive the new drivetrain.
IF, just say, this were a 'popular swap' then you could probably find a FAB Guy who made a kit with all or most of the mounts & modded parts in a kit, so as to minimize your custom efforts, that would make this job much more doable.
As far as the system integrations or eliminations to the original MB computer hardware / software, you'd best consult a real MB pro who can help you avoid getting halfway into the Job, just to find out there is a snag that prevents proper operation:
If this were 1970 no computers are involved so GO FOR IT - as its a mechanical challenge, primarily.
Sorry, that's no longer true, not on the LS engine going IN or the MB receiving it either.
Endless (seemingly) sensors & complexity on both ends.
The other reason you're getting some 'tough love' feedback is beause when you know where & how to buy MB parts - any m112 or m113 engine or typical 'wear item' parts - they're just NOT EXPENSIVE, period.
Thanks to the MB aftermarket retailers - like www.FCPEuro.com, Peach Parts, Autohauz AZ and many more, plus MB part houses selling genuine direct MB parts - there are TONS of affordable options.
We maintain a Honda Accord (I hate that car, another story, it does run reliably is all I like about it) and at least 80% of the parts are MORE for it vs the w210 - and it's WAAAAY less satisfying to drive.
Besides the big savings is ALWAYS in doing your own work, so $ 120 / hour labor is avoided.
But, if you love complexity, enjoy a challenge, are superb in Fabricating skill and have LOTS of time, it would seems like it's within your reach.
If you take up the challenge, consider making notes so that maybe, just maybe, if others want, they can follow you. Or even you could offer a kit to others ?
Every popular 'Engine Swap' kit that is offered for sale, at one point, had a Fabricator Guy who Pioneered the idea.
20 years ago, I was acquainted with the guy who pioneered the "VW Turbo Diesel 2.0L into Suzuki Samurai" engine swap, which became popular with the 'Rockcrawler / MOAB / Jeep' crowd:
I saw him do a bunch - I learned from watching - and most guys would just drop off their 1986 - 1991 Zuki at Gary's fully equipped Fabrication Shop & a check for $8,000 and Gary would say:
"Give me a call in a month and I'll let you know how close we are to done"
Hope this gives you some more food for thought !
David in East Texas
But as some have said, the X FACTOR is probably two fold:
1 - Integrating all the various MB systems that interface with the engine for management etc with the new drivetrain
AND
2 - Fabricating any mounts to facilitate the install including modding the w210 body to receive the new drivetrain.
IF, just say, this were a 'popular swap' then you could probably find a FAB Guy who made a kit with all or most of the mounts & modded parts in a kit, so as to minimize your custom efforts, that would make this job much more doable.
As far as the system integrations or eliminations to the original MB computer hardware / software, you'd best consult a real MB pro who can help you avoid getting halfway into the Job, just to find out there is a snag that prevents proper operation:
If this were 1970 no computers are involved so GO FOR IT - as its a mechanical challenge, primarily.
Sorry, that's no longer true, not on the LS engine going IN or the MB receiving it either.
Endless (seemingly) sensors & complexity on both ends.
The other reason you're getting some 'tough love' feedback is beause when you know where & how to buy MB parts - any m112 or m113 engine or typical 'wear item' parts - they're just NOT EXPENSIVE, period.
Thanks to the MB aftermarket retailers - like www.FCPEuro.com, Peach Parts, Autohauz AZ and many more, plus MB part houses selling genuine direct MB parts - there are TONS of affordable options.
We maintain a Honda Accord (I hate that car, another story, it does run reliably is all I like about it) and at least 80% of the parts are MORE for it vs the w210 - and it's WAAAAY less satisfying to drive.
Besides the big savings is ALWAYS in doing your own work, so $ 120 / hour labor is avoided.
But, if you love complexity, enjoy a challenge, are superb in Fabricating skill and have LOTS of time, it would seems like it's within your reach.
If you take up the challenge, consider making notes so that maybe, just maybe, if others want, they can follow you. Or even you could offer a kit to others ?
Every popular 'Engine Swap' kit that is offered for sale, at one point, had a Fabricator Guy who Pioneered the idea.
20 years ago, I was acquainted with the guy who pioneered the "VW Turbo Diesel 2.0L into Suzuki Samurai" engine swap, which became popular with the 'Rockcrawler / MOAB / Jeep' crowd:
I saw him do a bunch - I learned from watching - and most guys would just drop off their 1986 - 1991 Zuki at Gary's fully equipped Fabrication Shop & a check for $8,000 and Gary would say:
"Give me a call in a month and I'll let you know how close we are to done"
Hope this gives you some more food for thought !
David in East Texas
Reviving the dead with a first post...
Not a lot of info out there on this subject. Wondering if a couple of years later anybody has done anything?
Story time:
I acquired a 230K miles 1997 e300d about 6 months ago for $1k and immediately drove it home 400+ miles. Has been my daily commuter since. It's pretty rough. Body is straight, but has clear coat peal and interior is trash.
Yesterday, I picked up a 2wd 2004 Buick Rainier with a salvage title and 190k miles. This particular one has an LM4. Paid $1300. For those that don't speak 'LS engine', that is an aluminum block, 5.3L.
Stage one is just to get the 5.3 in the 300d... No cam, or anything else. Just get it driving. I am shooting for August 2022 for this first step (so add 3-5 months to that). Posting here because hoping maybe someone else is farther along, or can point me to info or a forum where it is appropriate to talk about engine swaps into these sacred and majestic vehicles.
And before you keyboard commandos go to nuts, I live in the great state of California. Where the SMOG Nazi's hail. This is my favorite and possibly cheapest way of getting what I want here. I already own the big expensive parts + HP tuners. I have extensive fabrication and automotive background, and it's my stuff. I'll do what I would like to with it.
Some will ask why not turbo the 606? I thought about it and maybe someday I will. I despise the 4 speed slush box behind it now (722.4?) Not a lot of info about controlling a 722.6 out there either. Was looking at megasquirt options but can't find much. I'm probably not smart enough, and certainly too lazy to start from scratch on that one.
I'm not suggesting any one else go down this road, or that it is logical. It is just what I will be partaking in.
Cheers
Not a lot of info out there on this subject. Wondering if a couple of years later anybody has done anything?
Story time:
I acquired a 230K miles 1997 e300d about 6 months ago for $1k and immediately drove it home 400+ miles. Has been my daily commuter since. It's pretty rough. Body is straight, but has clear coat peal and interior is trash.
Yesterday, I picked up a 2wd 2004 Buick Rainier with a salvage title and 190k miles. This particular one has an LM4. Paid $1300. For those that don't speak 'LS engine', that is an aluminum block, 5.3L.
Stage one is just to get the 5.3 in the 300d... No cam, or anything else. Just get it driving. I am shooting for August 2022 for this first step (so add 3-5 months to that). Posting here because hoping maybe someone else is farther along, or can point me to info or a forum where it is appropriate to talk about engine swaps into these sacred and majestic vehicles.
And before you keyboard commandos go to nuts, I live in the great state of California. Where the SMOG Nazi's hail. This is my favorite and possibly cheapest way of getting what I want here. I already own the big expensive parts + HP tuners. I have extensive fabrication and automotive background, and it's my stuff. I'll do what I would like to with it.
Some will ask why not turbo the 606? I thought about it and maybe someday I will. I despise the 4 speed slush box behind it now (722.4?) Not a lot of info about controlling a 722.6 out there either. Was looking at megasquirt options but can't find much. I'm probably not smart enough, and certainly too lazy to start from scratch on that one.
I'm not suggesting any one else go down this road, or that it is logical. It is just what I will be partaking in.
Cheers
A ‘97 E300 should have a 722.6 5-speed AT. The shifter will P-R-N-D-4 for 722.6 or P-R-N-D-3 for 722.4.
If you want a turbo 606, start with a turbo 606 long block. MB didn’t just hang a turbo on a naturally aspirated 606.
You’ve read the sentiment here on deviating from factory intent. 20+ years on these forums tells me things won’t get more helpful for you. Now, if you’re swapping the 606 into the Ranier…
Sixto
05 E320 wagon 186K miles
If you want a turbo 606, start with a turbo 606 long block. MB didn’t just hang a turbo on a naturally aspirated 606.
You’ve read the sentiment here on deviating from factory intent. 20+ years on these forums tells me things won’t get more helpful for you. Now, if you’re swapping the 606 into the Ranier…
Sixto
05 E320 wagon 186K miles
You gonna disable the traction control? Abs? How are you gonna sync in the tach or speedometer?
I don't have many answers. Any I do, will not be to your satisfactory.
I'll try to keep ABS if I can. I'm not concerned with TC. However, the LM4 has an electronic throttle. I can manipulate TC with the throttle angle and spark retard via software in the GM computer. I figure at minimum, I will need to get wheel speed sensors talking to the GM ECU if I want that to work.
But let's face it... the first 5 cars I owned had neither. And I didn't crash a single one. I'm never going to win a debate on these subjects, so I'm just going to leave it at that. I really want cruise control to work however so, if I can get that to work, TC will also work.
I do not plan on using the Mercedes cluster at this point. May go digital down the line. More likely, just for simplicity sake... just to get it working... use the Rainier's cluster. It has some semi-cool info in it like; engine hours, instant and long term fuel economy, oil change intervals, etc. I don't care that chassis and engine mileage will not line up.
That stuff is way down the line. Like I said... just get it in and driving is step one. That will take long enough. I have the rest of my life to sort all the little stuff out.
I already know I need to get a front sump pan, low profile intake manifold, and probably a Camaro accessory drive. Obviously, get a drive shaft made. Motor mount and transmission relocations will be handled with fabrication. The rear end gearing will need to be addressed at some point as well. If can find an E55 rear for a reasonable price, that would probably be the easiest solution. If not, CTS-V possibly (more fabrication). Then there is door locks... Convert to electric solenoids? Vacuum reservoir? I'll get there when the time comes.
This is a "just for fun" project. I have another car for DD. I am comfortable with GM products. I like the huge aftermarket for LS stuff. For me this project is a perfect fit. It will be a lot of fun and a lot more headache. I am a glutton for punishment. Once I get the project rolling a bit more, I will post some more info on things to lookout for. When I google w210 LS swap, this thread is always at the top. It's the reason I came here. I know it's not popular and frowned upon by Mercedes owners. I am OK with that.
I'll try to keep ABS if I can. I'm not concerned with TC. However, the LM4 has an electronic throttle. I can manipulate TC with the throttle angle and spark retard via software in the GM computer. I figure at minimum, I will need to get wheel speed sensors talking to the GM ECU if I want that to work.
But let's face it... the first 5 cars I owned had neither. And I didn't crash a single one. I'm never going to win a debate on these subjects, so I'm just going to leave it at that. I really want cruise control to work however so, if I can get that to work, TC will also work.
I do not plan on using the Mercedes cluster at this point. May go digital down the line. More likely, just for simplicity sake... just to get it working... use the Rainier's cluster. It has some semi-cool info in it like; engine hours, instant and long term fuel economy, oil change intervals, etc. I don't care that chassis and engine mileage will not line up.
That stuff is way down the line. Like I said... just get it in and driving is step one. That will take long enough. I have the rest of my life to sort all the little stuff out.
I already know I need to get a front sump pan, low profile intake manifold, and probably a Camaro accessory drive. Obviously, get a drive shaft made. Motor mount and transmission relocations will be handled with fabrication. The rear end gearing will need to be addressed at some point as well. If can find an E55 rear for a reasonable price, that would probably be the easiest solution. If not, CTS-V possibly (more fabrication). Then there is door locks... Convert to electric solenoids? Vacuum reservoir? I'll get there when the time comes.
This is a "just for fun" project. I have another car for DD. I am comfortable with GM products. I like the huge aftermarket for LS stuff. For me this project is a perfect fit. It will be a lot of fun and a lot more headache. I am a glutton for punishment. Once I get the project rolling a bit more, I will post some more info on things to lookout for. When I google w210 LS swap, this thread is always at the top. It's the reason I came here. I know it's not popular and frowned upon by Mercedes owners. I am OK with that.
Speaking of.... Remove the original ECU and TCM, ABS and ESP will disable itself. It will just straight up disable and not work at all. My E55 with manual trans has no ABS or ESP because I disconnected the TCM. If I want traction control back, I need to get a ESP module out of a manual car.
E55 diff is the same as E430 diff. Same 2.82 rear. Can also use W220 diff, I believe they are also 2.82.
I think the part number for the diff stays the same, all the way to S65 AMG, so clearly it's capable of taking some torque.
GLWYSwap.
My 2 cents, 'a fun project' is when you get everything to work correctly. Maybe it's just me?
I've have countless guys in my past say to me, I want to build my own house cause it's a (good) fun project to do.
We all know how that turns out, respectfully.
Then when shiat hits the fan..... separation, divorce, one way switches vs. 3 way switches...
My 2 cents, 'a fun project' is when you get everything to work correctly. Maybe it's just me?
I've have countless guys in my past say to me, I want to build my own house cause it's a (good) fun project to do.
We all know how that turns out, respectfully.
Then when shiat hits the fan..... separation, divorce, one way switches vs. 3 way switches...
Thanks for that great bit of insight. Good reminder of why I keep off social media. Respectfully of course.
For anyone following along, a 4L60E doesn't fit in the trans tunnel without significant trimming to the tunnel. It's about 1" wider. Would require cutting the bottom corners out where the floor pan rolls up into the tunnel on both sides at the very least. Like where the pan on the 60e lives.
I chose to find a TR6060 from a 2010 Camaro. This is a 6 speed manual for those who don't know. It like a T56 Magnum, but from a production car instead of an aftermarket part. I kicked around the idea of a CD009 trans out of a 350Z/G35. I would think that trans would feel better. But ultimately didn't want to mess with extra bespoke transmission adapters to get it to bolt to the LM4. Going TR6060 means I can buy any wearable items at Autozone if needed. And for all the clutch side stepping I plan on, that matters.
The TR6060 also requires cutting of the tunnel, but only on top. To make room for the top of the trans but mostly the shifter. Also, the Camaro shifter puts the sick within an inch of where the factory auto shifter was in the car.
The engine and trans mounts are fully welded up at this point. The engine is in and some of the wiring is done. just need to figure out what I'm doing for powers... some sort of fuse box. The factory Rainier box is just too bulky and full of stuff I no longer have. Will most likely end up some small, water tight, fuse box, from amazon and mounting it under hood.
I purchased all 3 pedals from a Chrysler Crossfire on ebay. Adapted the drive by wire pedal from the Buick to work with the bottom hinged throttle pedal of the 210. Other than the throttle pedal stuff, it was a bolt in affair. A surprise to no one that has manual swaped one of these.
Found an adapter to go from the clutch master cylinder (that is oddly mounted to the clutch pedal assembly), to a AN -4 clutch hose routed to the hydraulic throw-out bearing.
More useful info; the stock truck intake manifold and accessory drive will fit under the hood. I did have to remove part of the fresh air intake system (for the cabin), that is bolted to the under side of the hood. I will need to build something more shallow so that it doesn't just pull "fresh" air from under the hood. These piece of information would have saved me a good chunk of change had I known it at the beginning.
August came and went. I lost motivation on the project for a while, but am back at it. Major things still needed are a fuel system which I am currently working on. Going to use an Edelbrock fuel sump. Will need a low pressure pump to feed the fuel from the tank into the sump.
Need a cooling system. Just kicking around ideas at this point. Probably buy the most popular, largest radiator that will fit.
Need an exhaust system. The car will have a turbo at some point, but NA in the beginning. It's going to look a little funny but I am routing the exhaust as if the turbo was in place. So flipped manifolds, pointing forward. The drivers side will cross in front of the engine and eventually to a down pipe, sans turbo. The goal here is to only fab the turbo back stuff once. The manifolds to turbo portion will need to be re-fabbed, once the boost maker is installed.
Last big one is the drive shaft. I am thinking of doing a temporary one myself in the beginning. Just modify the front part of the stock 210 to accept the proper u-joint for the TR6060. I have access to a lathe, dial indicators and am proficient in mig and tig. It won't need to last long or hold much power. This is just to get the thing moving under is own power before having a proper one built. Sounds fun.
I chose to find a TR6060 from a 2010 Camaro. This is a 6 speed manual for those who don't know. It like a T56 Magnum, but from a production car instead of an aftermarket part. I kicked around the idea of a CD009 trans out of a 350Z/G35. I would think that trans would feel better. But ultimately didn't want to mess with extra bespoke transmission adapters to get it to bolt to the LM4. Going TR6060 means I can buy any wearable items at Autozone if needed. And for all the clutch side stepping I plan on, that matters.
The TR6060 also requires cutting of the tunnel, but only on top. To make room for the top of the trans but mostly the shifter. Also, the Camaro shifter puts the sick within an inch of where the factory auto shifter was in the car.
The engine and trans mounts are fully welded up at this point. The engine is in and some of the wiring is done. just need to figure out what I'm doing for powers... some sort of fuse box. The factory Rainier box is just too bulky and full of stuff I no longer have. Will most likely end up some small, water tight, fuse box, from amazon and mounting it under hood.
I purchased all 3 pedals from a Chrysler Crossfire on ebay. Adapted the drive by wire pedal from the Buick to work with the bottom hinged throttle pedal of the 210. Other than the throttle pedal stuff, it was a bolt in affair. A surprise to no one that has manual swaped one of these.
Found an adapter to go from the clutch master cylinder (that is oddly mounted to the clutch pedal assembly), to a AN -4 clutch hose routed to the hydraulic throw-out bearing.
More useful info; the stock truck intake manifold and accessory drive will fit under the hood. I did have to remove part of the fresh air intake system (for the cabin), that is bolted to the under side of the hood. I will need to build something more shallow so that it doesn't just pull "fresh" air from under the hood. These piece of information would have saved me a good chunk of change had I known it at the beginning.
August came and went. I lost motivation on the project for a while, but am back at it. Major things still needed are a fuel system which I am currently working on. Going to use an Edelbrock fuel sump. Will need a low pressure pump to feed the fuel from the tank into the sump.
Need a cooling system. Just kicking around ideas at this point. Probably buy the most popular, largest radiator that will fit.
Need an exhaust system. The car will have a turbo at some point, but NA in the beginning. It's going to look a little funny but I am routing the exhaust as if the turbo was in place. So flipped manifolds, pointing forward. The drivers side will cross in front of the engine and eventually to a down pipe, sans turbo. The goal here is to only fab the turbo back stuff once. The manifolds to turbo portion will need to be re-fabbed, once the boost maker is installed.
Last big one is the drive shaft. I am thinking of doing a temporary one myself in the beginning. Just modify the front part of the stock 210 to accept the proper u-joint for the TR6060. I have access to a lathe, dial indicators and am proficient in mig and tig. It won't need to last long or hold much power. This is just to get the thing moving under is own power before having a proper one built. Sounds fun.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
