Yep, I somehow managed to 'get the bean above the frank'...

Hey relax! You've already laid the tracks, so all we gotta do is back it up! haha

If this doesn't work, I guess other options are: -
1) activate central locking from cabin
2) spare key?
3) break out rear tail lamp to get access to trunk.

 

Take your vin and registration/title to the dealership and have them make you up a key( the one that has the chip for the start function etc that will open all locks) mine cost about 45$ a few years back.. it may take a couple of days to get the key, whining may help......

 

I have a 95. My key from the dealership took 5 days and almost $300
Dr Swiger

 

yeah, no spare key.

wait, before I break out any taillights, lets go back to this air hose that I see in there... When I look in the hole towards the right, I see the assembly with an air hose coming out toward me (and the center of the car). It then splits in a T and becomes 2 smaller diameter, stiffer, white plastic lines.

Can anyone tell me if what I'm seeing is exactly what I need to blow into to pop the trunk, because if it is, then we now have a new no cost way to get in to trunks

 

I took my registration to the dealer and for less than $30 they ordered a new key and had it shipped overnight.

 

For what, the electronic key, a valet key? Because everyone else seems to be paying around $300!

 

A chipped non electronic key, once again available thru the dealer for under 50$..I have one as a spare for my electronic remotes..I can't see why anyone would cut holes in their car before trying to get a new key or even a locksmith( get a price first)...

 

Locksmith is $350

The car just came down a month ago, used/new to me, but the paperwork is up north.

I also already went to Benz and they told me the cheapest option is to break the tail light, so apparently they don't do cheap keys down here in Lauderdale.

I finally found the right activator I'm dealing with, so now at least I know what it looks like:
1994 2002 Mercedes SL Class Trunk Lock Assembly | eBay

...so I drilled another hole in the bottom right corner, behind the plate, and got right to that black plunger... Then I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it to the right.... Nothing.

Ok, so now I'm completely lost. What the heck has to happen for the trunk to pop. The key turns a cable and the cable pulls that black plunger.... Which is what I did.

Anyone?

 

What a shit show dealer, maybe call another one, I have never heard of that response..Dealers provide any keys as long as you have vin and title ?? Ridiculous..Having said that the lock is vacuum actuated, not sure if it locks or unlocks under vacuum, with limited access it would be hard to pull a hose, quite a headslapper...the tail light is a fortune too and you may not be much better off than you are now

 

the key position puts the lock in open/locked position
the vacuum line those same as key puts lock in open/lock position
did you push the key button with your finger??

 

...
did you push the key button with your finger??

?!
No. He poked himself in the eye! Jeez!

...so I drilled another hole in the bottom right corner, behind the plate, and got right to that black plunger... Then I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it to the right.... Nothing.

Ok, so now I'm completely lost. What the heck has to happen for the trunk to pop. The key turns a cable and the cable pulls that black plunger.... Which is what I did.

Anyone?

On my SL ('91) there's an 8mm dia steel rod that connects the push button key lock actuator to the lock mechanism. Its about 6 to 8" long and runs horizontally. When you push the lock button, the rod rotates (twists) and engages the flat detent of the lock mechanism which rotates and releases the lock.

You cannot access the mechanism or release rod via the license plate light cover lens because access is restricted by the trunk internal lining.

Even if you managed to drill a hole in the right place so you could see the release rod, I still don't believe you would have enough purchase and leverage on the rod to release the lock.

The license plate light and drilled hole methods are only viable where the owner has accidentally locked himself out and has also either already removed the internal lining or push button key lock.

IMO the options are either actuate the central locking from the cabin (my SL has a toggle button on the door card to do this), or get a spare key, or break the tail light, as previously suggested.

Good luck, and don't forget to report back with your progress!

 

What Dale M said. You cannot access that trunk from the interior of the car. The only way you can get in is to break the right taillight or in your car or in your case use a key.

I was in that position when I installed a new latch and didn't take off the rear lining to make sure the actuating Rod was attached to the latch. So at least you are lucky in that a key will work.

Do a search to read about my travails.

 

you CAN get in w/o breaking the tail light.!!!! verified it. take out the license plate and the RIGHT license plate light. from the opening you can with a hooked tool, grab and pull the actuating rod, or if the rod is loose, attach the rod. with the trunk locked AND the rod attached you may need to pop the rod out and release the latch manually.

another member didn't get the rod in properly and couldn't open his trunk. having seen how it was attached, I verified I could get in through the right license plate light hole and actuate the lock to pop the trunk. IIRC he was then able to do the same and open his. it does take some right angle tools etc. but I did it and so did he. However in these cases the rod was loose, but I think from seeing how the mechanism works one should be able to open it even with the rod attached.

 

Few notes:

• The lock is not broken, its just locked.
• I have access to the interior of the car but the trunk button wont work without the key.

• 
  
  The trunk button? You should be hitting the central locking switch.

 

I thought I read someone removing their.....

license plate light cover lens.
I don't remember if it was the right or left side. :|

They removed the little clear lens cover & it gave them access to the rod that releases the trunk latch & they were able to open their trunk. :eek :grin

Good luck!! :grin :angel

 

Just about to break the right side taillight but let me clarify a few things...

• I have two, 2" holes (from a hole saw) cut on either side of the actuator, which is almost upside down in the image. (The black plunger faces RIGHT)
• I ALREADY disconnected the T and tried to blow air into the black line that goes into the LEFT side of assembly (you can see the nipple in the image below) and got back-pressure, like the air was hitting a one way valve.
• I ALREADY have access to that plunger on the RIGHT side, that is actuated by a CABLE (not a rod), similar to a brake cable on a bike.
• I ALREADY pulled that plunger all the way to the right, and not only does that not open the trunk, but it gets SUCKED back in to the unit.

...so basically, the question is, is there a COMBINATION of things I need to do to open whatever that valve(?) is that is giving me back pressure. For example, pull the arm all the way to the right, WHILE blowing in the black air line?

 

[*]I ALREADY pulled that plunger all the way to the right, and not only does that not open the trunk, but it gets SUCKED back in to the unit.
[/LIST]

...so basically, the question is, is there a COMBINATION of things I need to do to open whatever that valve(?) is that is giving me back pressure. For example, pull the arm all the way to the right, WHILE blowing in the black air line?...

New territory for me. Your lock is different to mine.
I reckon you maybe right. Pull on plunger and at same time apply vacuum to air line. If that doesn't work try same thing but apply pressure to air line.

You need to replicate what happens when the key is turned in the lock. I.e. the cable pulls the plunger, and at same time the central locking pump applies pressure (-ve/+ve? not sure) to black air line.

If you have to break the tail light, try to just break out the reflector/lens. You should then be able to remove the bulb holder behind.

 

This may be a possible option;

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/2259905-houston-we-have-trunk-open.html

 

It does seem like if you only have one key, the logical solution is to purchase a backup key. Now seems like the best time to do that too. Why bust a tail light and throw money away?

 

what about this option?

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/2259905-houston-we-have-trunk-open-3.html

 

I locked my keys in the trunk with alarm on. Locksmith was able to open car door but alarm went off. Disconnected battery and alarm was still going.
Had the car towed to MB dealer, they used a computer to plug into the car and they were able to open trunk that way.