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Limit switch locations by numbers

16K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  scottejupiter  
#1 ·
Hey guys! I've been busy today testing my wonderful soft top mechanical's and electrics,have tested all the 17 limit switch signals at the controller plug Y,I have found 3 of the pins on plug Y that test closed when they should read open, anyone have list that identifies the corresponding limit switch's to Y plug numbered pins for the test???? my test passed on position #1 but failed Position #2 with 21,24,26 reading closed.
My problem is ST will only unlatch and fold into compartment and rear cover stops in up position,top will not open whatsoever ,code read is 20,hardtop on no fault. my test procedure is this.

The hydraulic pump is switched by a relay mounted on the pump assembly in the trunk.

The top switch works by grounding socket #1 (lower top) or socket #2 (raise top) of the "Y" connector at the top controller. The Y connector is longer than the other two -- those are the "X" and "Z". The three connectors are labeled on their male sides attached to the control module.

If the top switch checks-out, then you might try verifying that all inputs from the various limit switches are working properly. When a switch closes to signal the controller, it does so by completing a circuit from the controller to chassis ground. All of the switches are wired to the Y connector of the soft top controller. You'll need a basic multimeter or other device for measuring continuity between the inputs and ground.

To access, open the storage compartment behind the passenger seat. Remove the plastic cover that protects the soft top controller by loosening three 10mm plastic nuts. Now remove the two 10mm nuts that are securing the controller and lift it off of its mounting studs. Now you should be able to easily separate the Y connector from the controller.

Looking at the connector you will see two rows of sockets numbered sequentially. Nearly all of these are inputs from the switches, though some are not used. You proceed by putting the top in "Position 1" and checking all the switches and then repeating the same for "Position 2". The info below shows which inputs should be open and which should be closed for each position. Have the ignition off while you perform your checks. Note that you only need to check 17 inputs.

Position 1 (Top closed, windows up, roll bar up)
Open: 10, 22, 27, 29, 30, 31
Closed: 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28

Position 2 (Top open but storage compartment cover open, windows and roll bar down)
Open: 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28
Closed: 10, 22, 27, 29, 30, 31
 

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#3 ·
I have everything off for testing,have found no leaks in system at all, so figure its electrical problem,something just is not getting the right signal to proceed,I have been in contact with Klaus in the past May? but I had to give up for a while,now winters back and will try to figure it out again,since the test revealed flaws ,have to find those switch's ,for some reason controller thinks the hard top is on? with all 4 locks in open position,they should be in open position with ST down,I just don't understand code 20 hard top on no fault found??? when ST opens and folds into storage ,its like the system doesn't recognize it being in there,and system halts,has to be limit switch malfunction somewhere,I used a audible continuity meter for testing.
From the looks of compartment ,1st time anyone has been here,its so clean and original,I did pull the controller out for inspection of circuit boards,but chickened out for now! will see what limit switch's reveal,The PO did put a new battery in it before I purchased the car,in the back of my mind wonder if he jump started the car,possibly damaging controller at some time,hope not! I have no problem replacing bad hydraulics,but no evidence of leaks ,anywhere. and some do work. here's some more pretty pictures!:D
 

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#7 ·
Whoops!
feedingtherat thanks! this gives me a direction to proceed with finding the fault, I have 21,24,26 that are fault ,will hunt those down first,I noticed those green plastic plugs for mounting the carpet panel on passenger side were smashed,so someone may have been here before?
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#9 ·
Spent some more time on it today , found one limit switch in a stuck position A25s2 top compartment cover locked right,freed it up,but still having problem, now will move on to the 2 rear locks for hard top,they look buried in there? dang lots of limit switch's in the system ,my 23 year old son is helping ,he seems to have more logic or patience than I for reading all the instructions. I consistently get only code 20 hard top on no fault found,more work tomorrow,think I'm getting closer to the fix! here's some pretty pictures!:D and more instructions
 

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#11 · (Edited)
Fixed!

Fixed it!!!! finally after 6 months, found a struck limit switch at rear lock right side, so after 20 years of non use found 3 switch's in stuck mode,its the clear rubber boots that freezes up and doesn't allow switch to open, I pretty sure that's what happens to guys who put the car away for the winter ,without using it.now top works on all cycles,still need to adjust the front locks,they are off a little. I feel gooooood!:D
 
#13 ·
Thanks!,for those who are reading this down the road and having issues with your top,your problem is either hydraulic or electrical,mine was electrical,its not really that hard to figure out, reading all the inputs and sheets of instruction helps,but can confuse the heck out of you, its easier for the novice to just start where your system stops working and ,its a hinge or lock that has a stuck limit switch,can be a window also,some of those locks have each 2 switch's in them,the locks have a thin cover over them with 3 screws,once removed you can see the switch's and the operation. now I know the system very well and not afraid of it! I would like to thank all the awesome members here for the help and repair info! a dealer just drove by and flipped me off!!!haha, more pretty pictures!:D:)
 

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