You can get it here. Heater unit #5 .

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fus...0&diagram=5768085&section=HVAC&Title=Mercedes-Benz-ML430-Base-V8-4.3- Liter-GAS

 

Thank You Very Much!!!

I cant thank you enough.

My ML is going to have heat in no time!

 

I trust you know that it calls for 19 hrs. labor under ideal conditions. You should speak to your mechanic and get a price for labor.

 

..... I think I heard his jaw drop .... all the way from Australia.

 

I really don't think he knows Rob.

 

I thought I would look for a photo of a W163 interior with its dash board removed. So I used the search term "remove evaporator"

A few clicks later had me reading a thread about heater core removal, which mentioned a "little birdie" and was linked to another thread on glycol, and a DIY "coolant reservoir cap gasket" being discussed by PHDs or engineers, or both. I'm not sure. I missed all that last year - highly entertaining. I won't post the link here, for fear of causing everybody a lot of unnecessary stress should a certain member notice the topic is again active.

Anyway, it did get onto dash board removal - the correct way being 19 hours labour. Sorry to digress. Back on topic.

 

The following photos are just with the instrument panel (upper and lower halves) removed.

Then you must remove the carrier/brace that spans the length of the interior, the wiring harness, the steering column, then the heater case which contains the hearer core and evaporator.

 

Ouch !!

So it takes 19 hours for someone who is capable, confident and equipped with all the right tools to install a new heater core.

Given this, paying a dealer or indie might invite a repair bill which exceeds the value of some of our cars (there's been some recent good USA purchases reported here for around $3,000 and less).

So the options are:

1. Pay a dealer or indie to repair
2. Attempt a DIY repair (perhaps 3 or 4 days of solid work), with no guarantee that everything will work correctly when completed .... and no turning back
3. By-pass the heater core and have no heater
4. By-pass the heater and install some sort of after-market electric (?) heater
5. Walk away from the car and buy another.

Not many nice choices there. I wonder what a typical life of the W163 heater core is? Hopefully 25 years or more, given the W163 was launched in 1998 .... 16 years ago.

 

3. By-pass the heater core and have no heater.

Where would you recommend I install a by-pass?

Need to buy some time to get parts and maybe get a reasonable quote to replace the core.

All the best.
Neo

 

My local Indie replaced a heater core on another ML Last winter. (Now he knows what to do)

He told me its going to be $800 in labor and I am buying the part.
He looked in the books and it did in fact note that the repair will take 18.8 hours.

Says he is just going to charge me $800 and not a dollar more.

Expensive but it has to get done. Its starting to get cold out in NJ.

 

Update on this post.

The ML is at the shop and is currently being worked on.

Parts

What they done thus far

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[/IMG]






Note:
He is having trouble removing the HeaterCore at this step.
He told me that he is going to have to remove the Black metal frame to replace the part.
This is a extremely tough job
Pray that your heater core never fails.


Ill keep you guys updated!

 

Note:
He is having trouble removing the HeaterCore at this step.
He told me that he is going to have to remove the Black metal frame to replace the part.
This is a extremely tough job
Pray that your heater core never fails.

When your mechanic accepted this job he told you that he had previously replaced a heater core on an ML.

Now it should be obvious to you that he has never done one before because he should have know about the cross brace and everything else that must be removed.

 

Please Mercedes God don't let my heater core go bad!!!

 

Can't imagine taking on a project of this magnitude. Luckily here in the southeast our weather is fairly moderate...rarely gets down below 20 degrees F. I've got a 75 CJ5 that is pretty much original and, when it is cold the heater, when at full speed with maximum heat, feels like a chihuahua panting on your leg. I added this Mohave heater a few years ago and it does a great job. Ties into your heater hoses and puts out a good amount of HOT air. Only adjustment is the fan speed. Not exactly sure how you would go about installing it in an ML...hope I never have to make that decision !

Flex-a-lite Mojave Heater Assembly - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

 

I've got a 75 CJ5 that is pretty much original and, when it is cold the heater, when at full speed with maximum heat, feels like a chihuahua panting on your leg.

Priceless :grin

 

Wondering..
if it makes sense to replace any flap actuators while one has the dash apart. Do they fail on older M's like they do on some other MB models?

 

Yes, absolutely, but only the Blend Door Motor.

 

I'm wondering, those of us with older ML's .....Is there anything we can do to extend the life of the heater core, other than using the proper MB approved coolant mixed at the proper 50/50 ratio with distilled water ?

Is it scale and rust that leads to needing replacement ? If so, it might be prudent when doing a coolant flush/refill to remove the coolant plugs from the engine block and thoroughly clean these passages. This might be a good procedure to always incorporate into a full coolant service.

 

Using the correct coolant and when mixing it 50:50 using distilled water to prevent any buildup are about the best things that can be done.

A complete flush every 5 years can help, but there are mixed opinions on that.

 

I am interested to know how many parts are left over after the project is completed.
Mike

 

The ML finally has heat. Almost too hot
The heater core replacement/ replacement oil pan / coolant tank took around a week and half to complete.

It was one of my dads good friends he he charged us only $600 for everything!
He did us a huge favor by saving us some cash.

The ML runs good now and just need to solve a small coolant leak...
I think its a leaky freeze plug. But that is another mission


Also the ML is a fabulous in the snow

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It's looking like I have the same problem :frown

The ML finally has heat. Almost too hot

Did your problem start with hardly any heat coming out of the heater?

it might be prudent when doing a coolant flush/refill to remove the coolant plugs from the engine block and thoroughly clean these passages.

Could you please tell me where these are located?

Many thanks
Neo

 

Congrats. It looks like you need a lot of cabin heat.

 

Just thought ....On right hand drive ML's is the heater core on the left?
If so, I'm hoping it would be easier to change the core as many connectors and the steering column will be on the other side.

All the best.
Neo

 

I wish it were that easy. On left hand drive MLs the relation to the HVAC box and steering is just a mirror image. The dash has to come out.

 

It appears possible to access the heater core by only removing the upper dash panel. This member found a way: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1706293-heater-core-replacement-3.html#post5737839

In order to remove the upper dashboard, you first have to remove the instrument cluster and loosen the centre dash panel (with the radio and A/C controls). Then you remove the screw shown in the middle of RJV's 2nd photo, to remove the plastic cover to allow the heater core out. That member didn't find the screw under the foam gasket, so he broke the plastic cover trying to remove it.

Correction: The heater core can't be removed with the A/C unit in place, because it gets blocked by the windscreen ledge.

 

It appears possible to remove the heater core by only removing the upper dash panel. This member found a way: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1706293-heater-core-replacement-3.html#post5737839

In order to remove the upper dashboard, you first have to remove the instrument cluster and loosen the centre dash panel (with the radio and A/C controls). Then you remove the screw shown in the middle of RJV's 2nd photo, to remove the plastic cover to allow the heater core out. That member didn't find the screw under the foam gasket, so he broke the plastic cover trying to remove it.

I can confirm it is possible (only just!) to remove the heater core without removing the steel framed dash carrier, heater box and wiring harness etc., but it is still necessary to remove the upper and lower dash panel and to unbolt the dash carrier at each end from the A pillars, from the steering column, transmission tunnel and the heater box. This task means the removal or unbolting of a lot of other nearby parts - heater controls, glove box, steering column, air bag etc, and even the wiper arms and wiper motor on the outside of the car.

This then allows the dash carrier to be pulled (i.e. flexed) far enough away from the firewall to allow the heater core to be pulled upwards from the heater box and to be squeezed out past where the bottom of the windscreen meets the firewall (back of the section which houses the wiper linkages).

If the dash carrier is not unbolted in this way it might be possible to remove the heater core but it, or the heater box, will almost certainly be damaged in the process and/or inserting the new and expensive heater core would be very, very difficult and the risk of damaging it, and/or the heater box is extreme.

See photo below :

 

RJV,
great job, hats off.

 

To eliminate the misting of the windshield, remove the two hoses at the firewall and connect them together with the appropriate size hose connector.

 

Hi Guy,

Thanks for all the info ... this is all Gold to me.

RJV would you have time to upload the 90 Photos to Photobucket or Google drive, or something? ... they would be very useful if/when I lose track on things.

Also, I want to do the foam on the dashboard air vent flaps at the same time ... I saw a thread on that somewhere but can't find it now?

Do I need to add anything else to my shopping/todo list in preparation for the core replacement?


All the best.
Neo

 

Also, I want to do the foam on the dashboard air vent flaps at the same time ... I saw a thread on that somewhere but can't find it now?

It's here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w16.../w163-m-class/2218065-burning-smell-black-foam-particles-ac-2.html#post10788833

Instructions here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1417771-diy-thread-collection-7.html#post5423844

 

It's too cool without the heater so I'm considering setting up a temporary electric heater. The ones I've seen are 150W/200W which I doubt with warm up a chicken nugget!... But I was just wondering when the airflow in the cab is switched to recycle where is the air intake vent located?

All the best.
Neo

 

On a right hand drive car (Australia) its on the far left behind the glove box - see it at top left in the photo below (glove box, dash panel and air bag removed).

 

I'm in trouble now. I ordered my new Core from the US. It arrived yesterday (Here in Sydney) but was poorly packed which has damaged the aluminium top of the Core.

Supplier is not responding to my emails which is causing me great concern. :frown
Just wanted your thoughts and comments on this....