[toothpaste]

Just changed the right front airspring and it worked like a charm; the car no longer sagging. Couple lessons learned from the experience -

1) definitely get a ball-joint separator (you can just rent one from Advanced Auto Parts).
2) After removing a retaining ring and cap, removing the bolt in the middle of the airspring (this is a step just before taking the airspring off) requires an impact wrench. the problem is that the shaft inside rotates when trying to unscrew the bolt; impact wrench provides enough momentum/acceleration required for the bolt to come loose. It took me 20 minutes to figure this part out.

I think youre referring to the sway bar end link which would be at 2:40 in the following video.

I wonder how many people ran into this problem and how they resolved it without an impact gun.

I would imagine that it would spin trying to reinstall it as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=5yW9OluhIHk

ETA:

It can be prevented from spinning, it just has to be raised to the proper height so that the spindle has pressure on it. In order to do this, I simply raised the lower control arm with my 2nd jack.

Same would apply to the upper control arm and spindle. In order to keep it from spinning, I raised the lower control arm but even further than needed for the sway bar end link.

 

[spiresj87]

A word of advice on Airmatic

A couple quick notes for anyone finding themselves on this thread.

A: It is normal for you airmatic to drop slightly on all four corners when you shut the vehicle off. This is the easy entry mode; you'll hear the system purge air at shutoff, and then it will engage the pump when you re-enter the vehicle. If you vehicle drops more than slightly, or more at one corner than another, you have a leak somewhere (external or internal). If this bothers you, it can be turned off via your gauge cluster display and steering wheel controls.

B: Rubber bladders will weather, crack, chafe, and tear with years of use (even just sitting under the weight of your vehicle). If your air springs are more than five years old, replace them. These are great vehicles, hence the MSRP new, and as such come with some great options and features. That being said, you can't expect to maintain them for the same prices as someone who bought a cheaper vehicle with less options and features. For all those who might complain this is a "quality issue" and Mercedes should stand behind it, you're wrong. These are wear items, the same brakes, tires, and suspension systems with typical coil springs and struts. As such, they're going to wear out and need replaced. If you can't afford the maintenance on these systems then be honest with yourself and buy a Tahoe or something.

C: Control valves can and do fail intermittently. There are multiple solenoids inside the valve assembly, and plenty of orings. The type of failure will determine whether it's an intermittent failure or not. If a valve is sticking due to corrosion, it will start as intermittent. If an oring has failed, it will be a constant failure. Important note: the components in the airmatic system which are under pressure include everything from the solenoid inside the control valve through the pressure hard-line to the air spring, under normal conditions. That means all external leaks need to include inspection of every component in that individual part of the system, from the spring to the valve (including orings at the air spring and the control valve assembly).

Internal leaks, which become more common with aging vehicles, are harder to track. What I've found to work best is lift all four corners of the vehicle and place it on jack stands (assuming you don't have access to a lift). Remove the compressor inlet pipe from control valve, and lower the vehicle one corner at a time with the jack under minimal tension, where it will very slowly lower the vehicle. As each corner is lowering, listen near the valve assembly for air leaking from the compressor inlet port. If you hear air escaping, you know the valve is defective internally and needs replace.

D: These systems can be repaired economically, and as such should never be repaired cheaply. These systems are much less dangerous to work on, and with a little DIY and some parts sourcing you can keep your far superior airmatic suspension in good working condition for just slightly more than someone replacing strut assemblies on their under-engineered vehicle. When you factor in that Arnott provides near factory ride quality, and that the other guy is likely replacing his struts with some cheapo replacement with sub-optimal ride quality, I think we have much to rejoice about. :nerd

 

[jedinite]

I just completed a replacement of my rear air suspension this weekend and I have to say it was a pretty easy job to do as long as you can get your hands and tools in the right place to release the air valve. The most difficult part I thought was going to be securely raising the vehicle but as it turns out, it took me about 30mins to turn the air value 1/16th turn at a time until I could hand loosen the nut. After that the rest of the install was pretty simple.

I have a 2012 GL450 and it has 51,000miles so it's really disappointing that the OEM struts don't last that long. I had to get my fronts replaced in 2016 a few months after my warranty ran out, had I known before what I know now, I would have had my fronts replaced when I saw it sag a few times a few months before my warranty ran out. At the time my front air suspension went out I think I had 38,000miles. So I avoided getting the air suspension on my other vehicle (Tesla Model S).

I ordered the Arnott replacement air struts and they are slightly different in build than the OEM air struts are. The OEM struts are 4 pieces, you have a top plastic bracket, a rubber gasket then another rubber gasket then the air bladder itself. The gaskets have some sort of blue silicon lubricant or sealant. The OEM strut minus the gaskets and bracket are about 1" shorter than the Arnott replacements which I think makes it more prone to issues since there are simply too many pieces. The Arnott strut has a single rubber gasket that sits on the top of the strut between chassis and the strut, and the top of the Arnott strut feels more substantial and well put together. The valve does not need to be removed to install. But one tip I will definitely tell you that the videos do not, is do NOT install the air tube into the nut until you have the strut fully in place.

Once you install the tube into the nut, you will have to unscrew it to get the strut to compress so you can get it installed. What I ended up doing is installing the tube too soon on one side and I had to unscrew it, compress the strut to be able to install it, then put the nut with the air tube back onto the strut before the bladder could fill with air. It meant that one side was just slightly too compressed when I installed it so I was worried that the gasket would move when turned the compressor back on, fortunately everything lined up well and the struts go back to original form very quickly after turning on the compressor. I basically turned the car on and pressed the raise function and almost immediately turned off the raise function within 1 sec and turned off the vehicle and the bladders where back to normal shape and too difficult to compress by hand. I then reinstalled the wheels and turned on the vehicle and allowed it to run normally for a few minutes to make sure that the struts were inflated. I then proceeded to raise the vehicle (crossing my fingers the struts weren't damaged like some others mentioned and the vehicle raised just fine. I then lowered the suspension back to normal and got the GL off of the jack and jack stands.

If I had to do this again I think I could probably get it done in 1.5 hours. Really the most difficult part is taking out the air tube nut from the OEM strut as the rubber gaskets on an inflated strut gets in the way of getting the 10mm wrench on the nut.

My local MBZ certified repair shop quoted me around $950 parts and labor. I purchased the pair of Arnott struts online (Amazon) for $330. So I learned how to do this on my vehicle (which I don't mind being a pseudo-gearthead) and I saved myself at least $620, if you factor in tax probably saved myself $700. Dealer price for the repair would be nearly double what my guy charges.

Good luck if you are a DIYer.

Video tutorials followed were:
Arnott Instructions:

Easy Steps:

Long install no audio instructions (I found this one after the install):

 

[byroncheung]

I have been noticing that occasionally the rear passenger side of my 2013 GL450 sometimes would sag after parked for a while. When I open the car's door it would rise back. It has been for quite some time (maybe about half a year), I think I should tackle this before it breaks the compressor...

From what I have been reading, seems like most common cause is the air spring leaking. When I find time I will try to get under the car and spray some soap water on it to see if i can confirm and spot where the leak is. Maybe attempt the cheap epoxy fix before trying anything else...

Couple of questions I have regarding to this problem:

1. if it is indeed a leak in the air spring, shouldn't it always sag with similar rate every time the car is turned of? Seems like it happens intermittently.
2. if it is not a leak in the air spring, from what I read it could be a leak somewhere in the system, or problem with the Solenoid Valve Block. what's best way to confirm where the problem is coming from?
3. if it is indeed a leak in the air spring, i can replace only the rear passenger side spring with Arnott's? does it have same spring rate as OEM, or the ride would be weird with different rear right v.s. rear left spring? or should i just do both? (and I'm assume keeping the OEM front and replacing rear with Arnott's will be ok)

Car has about 68k miles on it.

TIA!

 

[ususu]

I have been noticing that occasionally the rear passenger side of my 2013 GL450 sometimes would sag after parked for a while. When I open the car's door it would rise back. It has been for quite some time (maybe about half a year), I think I should tackle this before it breaks the compressor...



From what I have been reading, seems like most common cause is the air spring leaking. When I find time I will try to get under the car and spray some soap water on it to see if i can confirm and spot where the leak is. Maybe attempt the cheap epoxy fix before trying anything else...



Couple of questions I have regarding to this problem:



1. if it is indeed a leak in the air spring, shouldn't it always sag with similar rate every time the car is turned of? Seems like it happens intermittently.

2. if it is not a leak in the air spring, from what I read it could be a leak somewhere in the system, or problem with the Solenoid Valve Block. what's best way to confirm where the problem is coming from?

3. if it is indeed a leak in the air spring, i can replace only the rear passenger side spring with Arnott's? does it have same spring rate as OEM, or the ride would be weird with different rear right v.s. rear left spring? or should i just do both? (and I'm assume keeping the OEM front and replacing rear with Arnott's will be ok)



Car has about 68k miles on it.



TIA!

Did you find out? Any replacement done?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[byroncheung]

Did you find out? Any replacement done?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yep bubble solution test checked out. so i ordered replacements from arnott and installed it myself. been working fine since.

due to laziness i only replaced one side. my philosophy is don't fix it if it ain't broken. it's not like a when it leaks the car is not drivable anyway. so i decided i'll deal with it when the other side actually leaks.

to me the most confusing part of the issue is that the sagging only happen every now and then. i read somewhere it depends on the how the folds of the rubber sleeves are sitting, which makes some sense.

i just hope i haven't been waiting for too long to fix it and stressed the compressor... but for now it's all good.

also i think when the shock was busted occasionally i'd hear some clicking / grinding noise when i'm making tight turns. that's also gone now. maybe some sort of rubbing because the corner was sitting too low?

relatively easy DIY for what it is... most difficult part was actually pulling the fuse! also i spent some time trying to figure out if there is a less violent way of removing the old shocks before breaking out a screw driver to just pry it off. other than that it was pretty smooth process. ride quality with the new shock is also decent, maybe tiny bit more vibration get transmitted through, but if it is it's a very minor difference i'm not even sure if it is real or just my imagination.

 

[ususu]

yep bubble solution test checked out. so i ordered replacements from arnott and installed it myself. been working fine since.



due to laziness i only replaced one side. my philosophy is don't fix it if it ain't broken. it's not like a when it leaks the car is not drivable anyway. so i decided i'll deal with it when the other side actually leaks.



to me the most confusing part of the issue is that the sagging only happen every now and then. i read somewhere it depends on the how the folds of the rubber sleeves are sitting, which makes some sense.



i just hope i haven't been waiting for too long to fix it and stressed the compressor... but for now it's all good.



also i think when the shock was busted occasionally i'd hear some clicking / grinding noise when i'm making tight turns. that's also gone now. maybe some sort of rubbing because the corner was sitting too low?



relatively easy DIY for what it is... most difficult part was actually pulling the fuse! also i spent some time trying to figure out if there is a less violent way of removing the old shocks before breaking out a screw driver to just pry it off. other than that it was pretty smooth process. ride quality with the new shock is also decent, maybe tiny bit more vibration get transmitted through, but if it is it's a very minor difference i'm not even sure if it is real or just my imagination.

thanks for all the details! my GL450 started sagging on both front and rear (occasionally as well) and i guess it's time for some work. is it needed to take the wheel off for the rear bag? there is a youtube video showing the SUV was one a lift and the bag was replaced without taking the wheel off, but i only have a floor jack. arnott parts are on the way...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[byroncheung]

thanks for all the details! my GL450 started sagging on both front and rear (occasionally as well) and i guess it's time for some work. is it needed to take the wheel off for the rear bag? there is a youtube video showing the SUV was one a lift and the bag was replaced without taking the wheel off, but i only have a floor jack. arnott parts are on the way...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

front is more complicated from what i read and you might need some special tools to separate the ball joint or something... (can't remember all the details i glossed over the the front shocks posts)
i took the wheel off when i did it. to me seems like it was easier to do it that way, there is more clearance to take the shock out from the outside than then inside. you need to put it in a stand anyway (because you need to crawl under to undo / do the air hose. don't tell me you were planing to go under with it just on a floor jack...). if it's on a stand you might as well just take the wheel off?

 

[Andrew suit man benz]

So I’m recently became a new owner of a 2010 GL450. When I park it I hear a release of air and the suspension like adjust a little. So I have been researching this to see if its normal. I see a lot of threads in regards to the air suspension leak/failure but none of them really answer my question. I believe the air relief is normal from what I read but is it suppose to adjust slightly after parked, it’s very minimal but enough where I can feel it and see it move. When I park it should it remain the height I park it at or is this a sign of a leak?

Thanks in advance.

So I’m recently became a new owner of a 2010 GL450. When I park it I hear a release of air and the suspension like adjust a little. So I have been researching this to see if its normal. I see a lot of threads in regards to the air suspension leak/failure but none of them really answer my question. I believe the air relief is normal from what I read but is it suppose to adjust slightly after parked, it’s very minimal but enough where I can feel it and see it move. When I park it should it remain the height I park it at or is this a sign of a leak?

Thanks in advance.

I have a question if anyone is still here. About gl550 , should the message " suspension lowering" come on when driving. 2015 suv

 

[pigpuppy]

0

 

[Mbrocambro]

A word of advice on Airmatic

A couple quick notes for anyone finding themselves on this thread.

A: It is normal for you airmatic to drop slightly on all four corners when you shut the vehicle off. This is the easy entry mode; you'll hear the system purge air at shutoff, and then it will engage the pump when you re-enter the vehicle. If you vehicle drops more than slightly, or more at one corner than another, you have a leak somewhere (external or internal). If this bothers you, it can be turned off via your gauge cluster display and steering wheel controls.

B: Rubber bladders will weather, crack, chafe, and tear with years of use (even just sitting under the weight of your vehicle). If your air springs are more than five years old, replace them. These are great vehicles, hence the MSRP new, and as such come with some great options and features. That being said, you can't expect to maintain them for the same prices as someone who bought a cheaper vehicle with less options and features. For all those who might complain this is a "quality issue" and Mercedes should stand behind it, you're wrong. These are wear items, the same brakes, tires, and suspension systems with typical coil springs and struts. As such, they're going to wear out and need replaced. If you can't afford the maintenance on these systems then be honest with yourself and buy a Tahoe or something.

C: Control valves can and do fail intermittently. There are multiple solenoids inside the valve assembly, and plenty of orings. The type of failure will determine whether it's an intermittent failure or not. If a valve is sticking due to corrosion, it will start as intermittent. If an oring has failed, it will be a constant failure. Important note: the components in the airmatic system which are under pressure include everything from the solenoid inside the control valve through the pressure hard-line to the air spring, under normal conditions. That means all external leaks need to include inspection of every component in that individual part of the system, from the spring to the valve (including orings at the air spring and the control valve assembly).

Internal leaks, which become more common with aging vehicles, are harder to track. What I've found to work best is lift all four corners of the vehicle and place it on jack stands (assuming you don't have access to a lift). Remove the compressor inlet pipe from control valve, and lower the vehicle one corner at a time with the jack under minimal tension, where it will very slowly lower the vehicle. As each corner is lowering, listen near the valve assembly for air leaking from the compressor inlet port. If you hear air escaping, you know the valve is defective internally and needs replace.

D: These systems can be repaired economically, and as such should never be repaired cheaply. These systems are much less dangerous to work on, and with a little DIY and some parts sourcing you can keep your far superior airmatic suspension in good working condition for just slightly more than someone replacing strut assemblies on their under-engineered vehicle. When you factor in that Arnott provides near factory ride quality, and that the other guy is likely replacing his struts with some cheapo replacement with sub-optimal ride quality, I think we have much to rejoice about. :nerd

I don't know if you are Mercedes grand son or nephew; cause some of you language that you use here is just outright disrespectful and condescending toward the good people who have work hard to purchase a luxury product that unfortunately won't pass the reliability and quality standard that the price the car manufacturer is charging people for the product no wonder why the retaining value of their product sucks. You should know that money don't blossom of trees, rich or poor, we all work hard for it and Mercedes should be aware and respectful of that fact if they don't want to go down the tube like American car makers did.