I believe the front lower ball joints have been redesigned and now have a option for a heavy duty (HD) version. Be sure to get the updated part for that. From what I read the newer parts should have an "I" stamped into the bottom of them.

Some general information with photos that may be helpful?:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211-e-class/1437333-diy-lower-control-arm-ball-joint.html

 

Josh,

Ball joints are obviously on the list.

Need help with the less likely known parts that should be replaced if I am digging into the front end.

Even if I buy the complete control arms do I need a bushing kit for other certain areas that wear out?

Do I have all bases covered by buying the complete control arm?

Is it wise to throw in a new shock set for about $100/shock if I am in there having the work done?


What is a camber strut? If im in there doing work should I drop the cash now and get it done?

-----------------------------------------
This is what I have so far.
Please add , thank you!



2113308107


Lemfoerder OEM
Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Left Lower Rear




2113308907


Lemfoerder OEM
Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Left Upper
1 per car. Limited availability.




2113308207


Lemfoerder OEM
Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Right Lower Rear



2113309007


Lemfoerder OEM
Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Right Upper
1 per car. Limited availability.





2113304311A


Lemfoerder OEM
Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Thrust Arm, Front Left Lower Front
This unit includes the inner bushing. 1 per car.

2113304411A


Lemfoerder OEM
Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Thrust Arm, Front Right Lower Front
This unit includes the inner bushing. 1 per car

 

Im actually trying to sort all of this out on my 2005 E320 CDI as well. Mine is a little different in that it has something like 136K miles on it. I was able to get an alignment check and the printout of the numbers. From the numbers on mine I can guestimate what components I might replace. Have you had an alignment check on yours? The printout of the numbers might help you decide what to replace.

 

i am surprised that at 80k miles you are doing all that .is the 211 such a cheap car ????

 

IMO not all of these parts are not worn out unless the car has been driven on very harsh roads.

 

NY roads are unforgiving.

My theory is if my ball joints are shot and the mechanic is into the car already what else is worth the time now to replace since im already on the labor clock.

It would hurt more now but possibly save me from another workshop visit down the road.

Josh, Those numbers are great but be sure not to miss rubber components that could be long past usable life.

 

The great thing about getting your numbers is that they have the potential to indicate relative wear of some of the rubber components. I have the numbers from mine(136K miles) and you can compare some aspects between the two. On the front of our cars the only possible adjustment is Toe if I'm not mistaken. The only way to change the Caster and Camber is to use the bolt kits. If your Caster and Camber are significantly out then it could be indicative of worn rubber components or bent suspension components. If you didn't want to replace the rubber components you could conceivably use the bolt kits to bring things back in spec(provided they aren't too far out). The best option is to refresh the suspension components that way you don't need to compensate wear with the bolt kits. This would also give you fresh rubber and revive the steering crispness/feel.

 

Next month i will rebuilding the front end of my 05 cdi. i currently have bilstein hd struts and shocks (with new front mounts) installed, with the front ones lowered three grooves on the struts (handles and looks great)! however, the curbside front ball joint is bad so i am going to install upper control arms and both lower control arms, with new ball joints. i will be using all Moog components. then get a quality alignment. My mileage is at 102k now.

Also make sure your tie rod ends and and sway bar links aren't worn.
If u have the budget do it all while rebuilding the front end, it will cost u less in the long run!
I researched the parts on rock auto then check amazon for a better deal!!

 

gmfacdi is right. I just got started on the same thing for my 2005 E320cdi with 124000 miles. I also like and ordered moog parts for whole job. I would recommend the problem solver parts if they are available. You can go to the moog website and source all the proper part numbers for any model. OR even by VIN number. Just google MOOG PROBLEM SOLVER. Then source from whoever has them for the least amount of money. Usually AMAZON like he said.

Parts List so far

2 MOOG front lower ball joints.."they come with grease fittings and are considerably larger"
2 MOOG strut control arms with bushings and ball joint
2 MOOG Front control arms (aluminum front ones with ball joint and bushing)
2 MOOG upper front ball joints
2 MOOG problem solver inner tie rods
2 MOOG outer tie rods
4 camber caster bolt kits. I've found that these can be used in the center or inner or outer position, so will give more possible adjustment for alignment time.
4 New BF Goodrich tires, mounted and balanced with a Hunter road force balancer, and a person who actually knows how to use the machine to turn high part of tire to low part of rim. This increases "roundness" and makes for a very smooth ride with no vibration. (I'm amazed at how many shops have this high dollar balancing machine and flat refuse to use it properly or even bother to read the directions to find out how to use it properly)

Various "special tools" sourced from ebay, amazon, the like.....

Also already greased and adjusted front wheel bearings.

I've already gotten started on the job, and main finding so far is that even though the only joints really worn out were the lower ball joints, the other need to be replaced too because even with the correct mercedes removal tool the boots get all jacked up in the process of removing them.

Will report back as things progress.

 

MOOG is a pretty reputable name in suspension components. I like that they have developed the "Problem Solver" line to address some of the known issues with the MB OE parts from the past. It will be interesting to hear about the long term quality/reliability of those parts you used. I need to do mine in the fairly near future and need to come to a decision in regard to part brand to use for certain components.

 

What was the bottom line on all the parts.

 

I don't have all the paperwork anymore, but I feel comfortable saying it was about $250 per side. The only parts not replaced were the strut assemblies with mount bearings, sway bar links (bushings are still like new) and upper control arms as these bushings were fine also, I just ordered the ball joints that bolt to them.

If you are talking about 4-matic, keep in mind that the whole front suspension setup is different. I know different lower ball joint design and wheel bearing design for sure, probable more. This could have an effect on overall cost for parts.

 

I have not used any MOOG parts on a W211, but their HD lower ball joints for the W163 are much tougher than the OE genuine MB joints.

 

Great information to know! After reading through the MOOG pages on the "Problem Solver" line and reading your input I feel pretty confident myself. Thanks!

 

I have a 2006 E320 CDI with 116K. No front end work ever performed. Last alignment at 104K by Mercedes Benz dealer-- inspected the front end and found no problems and alignment was right on -- tire wear perfect and drive and handling and tracking perfect.

So if there is no problem why mess with dumping a bunch of money into the front end?? Fix it if it needs fixing.

My 2C worth.

 

Fix what needs fixing sounds sane, but really is not.

@ $120 an hour labor replacing an additional $50 part or two... While utilizing time already spent getting into the job actually doesnt increase the overall cost of the project by much.

Glad to see your front end lasted past 100k.

Your on borrowed time...

 

Most times, I would call bullshit - but I agree with this 100%. Mine lasted "past 100K" and suddenly (and quickly) developed issues with ball joints both upper and lower. I didn't read this and did not use the MOOG parts, but instead used Meyle HD. They are considerably different from OE. So far so good. If I need to change them at 200K - I will use MOOG that time. Nice write up OP.

 

Front end rebuild

Well, I'm halfway done. I have plenty of time as we're driving something else, so no hurry to finish. So far every ball joint has had some slack in it. Somewhat of a surprise, considering the only ones that felt loose were the lower load carrying ones on the front. What prompted this whole thing was bad inner tire wear, and yes.....if you have it apart anyway, maybe $200 more in parts, and I'll be ready to go with no issues for at least another 124,000.

More to come...

 

I had a nightmare with suspension on this car. I think I replaced ball joints like three times now. They just crack after a while and usually in the spring when it starts getting warm outside. It just starts squeaking and when we lift the car there is play in ball joints and rubber around is cracked. This is the case with all three of them, usually one side goes and then another. Alignment performed multiple times at Mercedes.

Next time I am going with Meyle HD and see how it goes. I always used good quality parts (Lemföder mostly). My car went 220 000km.

 

Good to see this thread, at 170K I see this work coming up quickly. I am thinking I will replace everything that wears. Great to know about the MOOG, how many banana job and hours?

 

I replaced the lower ball joints the control arm bushings and the thrust arms including bushings on my E500 last week. I used the Pex ball joints from AutohausAZ. I found the height of the taper, on the ball joints, were different to the stock ones but went ahead and installed. Like I was afraid it threw my Camber off, not much but enough to put it out of spec. Now I need to buy the adjustment bolts to bring it back. I am at -1.6 on the left and -1.8 on the right. Spec is -0.8 to -1.5. The alignment shop tells me it isn't enough out to worry about but they are not the ones spending the money on the tires.

 

Wifes car developed a squeek, does anyone have the part numbers listed? I just want to replace everything at 180K, more money than I want to put into it but she like and next year we are giving it to her parents...Unless there is something better than Moog. I was looking at Pelican and didn't see Moog listed the only reason I don't have the parts in garage, outta site outta mind.

 

Go to MOOG Steering & Suspension | The Problem Solver and you can look up all the parts there. I fear that I will be doing this job soon. I already had a front coil spring break a few miles back.

 

wow, is this coil spring breaking a common problem?

i am sure a front end rebuild is in my future over the next 6 months
but no problems so far