Attach is a PDF of a Do it Yourself (DIY) changing or cleaning of intake air filter (also A/C Cabin Filter) on a dual intake V6 Mercedes Benz (E320, E350). Very similar procedue on the V8 engines (E430, E500, E550)
spoons
Just replaced the air filters using the DIY instructions.
Very easy and took 30 mins or so.
Only tricky ( a little ) thing was removing the ducts, but twisting it as much as the little bump on the duct end does the trick.
For any one interested, the original MB filter was a MANN FILTER.
Thanks for the DIY directions.
Very easy and took 30 mins or so.
Only tricky ( a little ) thing was removing the ducts, but twisting it as much as the little bump on the duct end does the trick.
For any one interested, the original MB filter was a MANN FILTER.
Thanks for the DIY directions.
GOOD DIY!! Some Tips....
:thumbsup: Excellent DIY ... should be a sticky!
Some Tips:
1. Push down hard on the rear of the air cleaner housing over the Air Intake as it is a very tight fit and if a gap is left it will soon give a DTC error code P2188 & P2190!
2. If you use the K&N filters, do not overoil the filters or the oil will fly off and coat the MAS sensor giving DTC errors! These filters do not increase the engine horsepower, just the noise which makes you think the power has increased. ONLY the OEM filter will filter sub-micron air particles, all other filters will pass larger particles that will increase engine wear.
:thumbsup: Excellent DIY ... should be a sticky!
Some Tips:
1. Push down hard on the rear of the air cleaner housing over the Air Intake as it is a very tight fit and if a gap is left it will soon give a DTC error code P2188 & P2190!
2. If you use the K&N filters, do not overoil the filters or the oil will fly off and coat the MAS sensor giving DTC errors! These filters do not increase the engine horsepower, just the noise which makes you think the power has increased. ONLY the OEM filter will filter sub-micron air particles, all other filters will pass larger particles that will increase engine wear.
Great info!
Hey 'spoons' this is great! I've been creating my own DIY manuals cause I couldn't find anything, I did the cabin filter and was going to do an oil one and air filter one, but man you saved me the time! I've included my version of the Cabin Filter one I did, pictures are from a cell phone so don't rock like yours but anyway someone might find it helpful since that little cabin filter box can be a pain to get off. Thanks again!
Hey 'spoons' this is great! I've been creating my own DIY manuals cause I couldn't find anything, I did the cabin filter and was going to do an oil one and air filter one, but man you saved me the time! I've included my version of the Cabin Filter one I did, pictures are from a cell phone so don't rock like yours but anyway someone might find it helpful since that little cabin filter box can be a pain to get off. Thanks again!
K&N Sand sifters! WTF!
You may as well not use anything at all!
I would not run those pieces of $hit in my lawnmower much less my MB's!
Seriously the OEM filters outperform K&N By a factor of 10 in respect to filtration capability and flow rates!
The OEM filter has LESS RESTRICTION than a K&N due 10 times the filter area. This allows smaller particle filtration, lower restriction, and superior engine protection in additoon to greater longevity.
The W211 has a restriction meter built into the MAF housing. This monitors actual filter restriction and will trigger a service interval if it EVER becomes restricted.
Experience has shown that even with 50,000 miles on an OEM filter the filter was only at 1/10th of the maximum restriction allowed by MB.
For anybody stupid enough to run those pieces of $hit, open your system after the air filter and wipe it out with a rag. What you will find is dirt, dust and oil contamination that WILL DESTROY your engines MAF sensor.
K&N is simply poorer filtration at twice the cost and assured destruction of critical engine sensors.
You may as well not use anything at all!
I would not run those pieces of $hit in my lawnmower much less my MB's!
Seriously the OEM filters outperform K&N By a factor of 10 in respect to filtration capability and flow rates!
The OEM filter has LESS RESTRICTION than a K&N due 10 times the filter area. This allows smaller particle filtration, lower restriction, and superior engine protection in additoon to greater longevity.
The W211 has a restriction meter built into the MAF housing. This monitors actual filter restriction and will trigger a service interval if it EVER becomes restricted.
Experience has shown that even with 50,000 miles on an OEM filter the filter was only at 1/10th of the maximum restriction allowed by MB.
For anybody stupid enough to run those pieces of $hit, open your system after the air filter and wipe it out with a rag. What you will find is dirt, dust and oil contamination that WILL DESTROY your engines MAF sensor.
K&N is simply poorer filtration at twice the cost and assured destruction of critical engine sensors.
I like the PDF. Very well done.
I only use the K&N on the track cars. There was a test posted years ago about filtering
air and air filters on the market. While the K&N did let a little more air flow the OEM
filter does clean the air better. Having tried the K&N on the ML I went back to the OEM
Mann filters and use them on all 3 MBs.
I only use the K&N on the track cars. There was a test posted years ago about filtering
air and air filters on the market. While the K&N did let a little more air flow the OEM
filter does clean the air better. Having tried the K&N on the ML I went back to the OEM
Mann filters and use them on all 3 MBs.
I have dyno'd enough cars to tell you that K&N offer ZERO performance benefit in every car application I have tested (Turbocharged and Naturally aspirated). The only thing they do create is more resonance in the induction system which the non-engineer would correlate as more air flow when in fact the air flow volume is less.
OEM requires that not more than 2% @ 7 microns pass thru the filter media (98% filtration efficiency). In comparison the K&N allows as much as 90+% of particles in that size range to pass righ thru the filter!
OEM is shown below (Gray SEM scan) showing actual cellulose Fibers indicating and what actual OEM filter media looks like. K&N has an average pore size of 80-200 microns, OEM due to multiple layers of the fibers results in an average pore size of less than 10 microns. Impact on the fibers traps the smaller particles resulting in much greater filtration capability with higher air flow rates (lower restriction).
Typical Dirt sizes:
Sand 100 microns (63% flows right thru) FAILS MB specs
Dust 10 (90% passes thru) FAILS MB Specs
Human Hair 40 (75% passes thru) FAILS MB specs
Saw Dust 30 (75% passes thru) FAILS MB Specs
I can keep going....
Actual K&N filter ratings:
OEM requires that not more than 2% @ 7 microns pass thru the filter media (98% filtration efficiency). In comparison the K&N allows as much as 90+% of particles in that size range to pass righ thru the filter!
OEM is shown below (Gray SEM scan) showing actual cellulose Fibers indicating and what actual OEM filter media looks like. K&N has an average pore size of 80-200 microns, OEM due to multiple layers of the fibers results in an average pore size of less than 10 microns. Impact on the fibers traps the smaller particles resulting in much greater filtration capability with higher air flow rates (lower restriction).
Typical Dirt sizes:
Sand 100 microns (63% flows right thru) FAILS MB specs
Dust 10 (90% passes thru) FAILS MB Specs
Human Hair 40 (75% passes thru) FAILS MB specs
Saw Dust 30 (75% passes thru) FAILS MB Specs
I can keep going....
Actual K&N filter ratings:
Attachments
Cleaned filters
Besides a bunch of insects and seeds from trees the filters looked great, my car has 10k on it and I bought it at 6k so I'm guessing they might have been cleaned or replaced before I got the car, though ya never know. I vacuumed them out and replaced.
They are Mann filters stamped with the Benz brand. I'm really impressed with both the cabin and air filter setup, very high quality filters, large surface areas and well thought out. Even the intake area on the front of the car has a little deflector so that bugs and stuff are less likely to be sucked in. I've owned many cars where these things seemed like after thoughts or there was plenty of room for air to get around the filters.
Anyone know if the Mann filters are made to certain specifications for Mercedes or are they same ones that can be bought directly from Mann? Just curious.
Besides a bunch of insects and seeds from trees the filters looked great, my car has 10k on it and I bought it at 6k so I'm guessing they might have been cleaned or replaced before I got the car, though ya never know. I vacuumed them out and replaced.
They are Mann filters stamped with the Benz brand. I'm really impressed with both the cabin and air filter setup, very high quality filters, large surface areas and well thought out. Even the intake area on the front of the car has a little deflector so that bugs and stuff are less likely to be sucked in. I've owned many cars where these things seemed like after thoughts or there was plenty of room for air to get around the filters.
Anyone know if the Mann filters are made to certain specifications for Mercedes or are they same ones that can be bought directly from Mann? Just curious.
OEM is Mann-Hummel. They Engineer, manufacture the filters, housings and all associated ducts for Mercedes.
Don't replace filters any sooner than recomended. The filters perform their worst when new and improve over time and mileage. Early filter replacements has been shown to increase fine particle accumulation on the MAF sensors leading to early failure from overheating of the microscopic heating elements and temperature sensors on the internal sensor plate.
There is no issue with cleaning out bugs and such but you should always avoid needless maintenance when not called for especially when you are not familar with how those systems are controlled or monitored for condition. When you understand how the car monitors those systems and how they function you will be more inclinded to run them longer rather than on shorter intervals (never to exceed 4 years).
The color of an air filter is meaningless and the only vaild check is actual restriction measured post filter at the MAF sensor.
Maximum differential monitored by the computer to you can relax that the engine will never operate with any measurable amount of restriction.
My last check on my car at full throttle (CDI) showed a maximum restriction at peak boost of .036 psi which by all acounts is "0" restriction...and the filter has over 30,000 original miles on it!
Chaning before 56,000 miles is just a waste of a good filter with superior filtration!
Don't replace filters any sooner than recomended. The filters perform their worst when new and improve over time and mileage. Early filter replacements has been shown to increase fine particle accumulation on the MAF sensors leading to early failure from overheating of the microscopic heating elements and temperature sensors on the internal sensor plate.
There is no issue with cleaning out bugs and such but you should always avoid needless maintenance when not called for especially when you are not familar with how those systems are controlled or monitored for condition. When you understand how the car monitors those systems and how they function you will be more inclinded to run them longer rather than on shorter intervals (never to exceed 4 years).
The color of an air filter is meaningless and the only vaild check is actual restriction measured post filter at the MAF sensor.
Maximum differential monitored by the computer to you can relax that the engine will never operate with any measurable amount of restriction.
My last check on my car at full throttle (CDI) showed a maximum restriction at peak boost of .036 psi which by all acounts is "0" restriction...and the filter has over 30,000 original miles on it!
Chaning before 56,000 miles is just a waste of a good filter with superior filtration!
Thanks for the info...
Appreciate the feedback 'drivbiwire', this actually doesn't surprise me "Early filter replacements has been shown to increase fine particle accumulation on the MAF sensors leading to early failure from overheating of the microscopic heating elements and temperature sensors on the internal sensor plate.". I planned on not changing them until they are actually scheduled to be replaced (think that is 4 years in to ownership, way past how long I'll own it), just figured cleaning out the big crap couldn't hurt.
Appreciate the feedback 'drivbiwire', this actually doesn't surprise me "Early filter replacements has been shown to increase fine particle accumulation on the MAF sensors leading to early failure from overheating of the microscopic heating elements and temperature sensors on the internal sensor plate.". I planned on not changing them until they are actually scheduled to be replaced (think that is 4 years in to ownership, way past how long I'll own it), just figured cleaning out the big crap couldn't hurt.
My replacement was a 30,000 mile replacement on the E500 and I am letting the ML
go til spring at which point its filter will be due.
go til spring at which point its filter will be due.
My E500 has two interior charcoal filters. I got a set at autohaus. Parts.com has them also.
As far as replacement interval that depends on the environment and how much grunge got
sucked into the filters. The maintenance PDF says 5 years/52k miles on the one under the hood and
every B service (aprox two years for the interior filters) I just did all three.
PDF attached.
As far as replacement interval that depends on the environment and how much grunge got
sucked into the filters. The maintenance PDF says 5 years/52k miles on the one under the hood and
every B service (aprox two years for the interior filters) I just did all three.
PDF attached.
Almost every sensor on the car and software/firmware revisions of things like the Audio Gateway.
It is the MB SDS system and shows every possible error code the car can store even if
the CEL light is not on. It also allows for disabling of the SBC for safe brake servicing.
It has the mode to use the SBC pump to change the brake fluid the way the factory wants
it to be done to ensure SBC reliability. So many things it really should be its own thread.
It is the MB SDS system and shows every possible error code the car can store even if
the CEL light is not on. It also allows for disabling of the SBC for safe brake servicing.
It has the mode to use the SBC pump to change the brake fluid the way the factory wants
it to be done to ensure SBC reliability. So many things it really should be its own thread.
The guided tests walk you thru each systems checks, it will access and display all the related components and their detected values as well as list the ranges and specifications.
In my opinion it is mandatory for any DIY owner or repair shop!
The last picture is for oil quantity and condition, no need to use a dipstick when you can read actual quantity in millimeters.
In my opinion it is mandatory for any DIY owner or repair shop!
The last picture is for oil quantity and condition, no need to use a dipstick when you can read actual quantity in millimeters.
Attachments
Awesome PDF and write-ups on the air filter change out. I don't have STAR, just a home mech and what surprises me is how often the filter has to be changed out. I assumed every two years, but just after 14 months, it's already due again!
In that 14 months, the car did log about 13K and there were quite a few long distance hauls, but still..
In that 14 months, the car did log about 13K and there were quite a few long distance hauls, but still..
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