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Broken vacuum Hose

4.9K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Reef1944  
#1 ·
While changing the camshaft position sensor I accidentally broke this yellow hose. See photo. With age it has gotten very brittle and just broke when I touched it. I cannot find such a small diameter hose in the hardware store. I have not tried the dealer. But before I go to the dealer I have following questions and will appreciate response from this great community.
  • What is this part called and what is the function? The car appears to run fine with the yellow hose broken. I have not seen any change in starting or driving performance. It does not seem to make any difference.
  • Is there a reason why this smaller diameter yellow hose is used to connect the two larger diameter black hoses? Why can’t I use one single hose with the same diameter as the black hose? Is the smaller diameter yellow hose necessary to increase pressure or something like that.
Thank you for your help.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Vacuum line diagram label is located under the hood, at the front. Look for it.
To fix this break,
goto your local auto/hardware store and pick up a pack of the correct dia size universal vacuum connectors and black rtv silicon.
Why do I need RTV silicon? Why can't I just attach the new rubber hose
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
You can do whatever suits you.
Your ride, your choice. :)
Khomer2, I appreciate your response. I am not trying to be argumentative, I am just trying to understand why use the silicon glue? What is so special about this connection.

I would still like to know why is there a smaller diameter pipe between the two end-points. There has to be a reason for it.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
How come the car is running fine with the broken hose. I cannot tell any difference at all. No engine lights either. If I had not seen the broken hose I would not even know about it
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I just did a scan with my $10 OBDII scan tool. No faults. No pending or historical faults either. Like I said at least I cannot tell any difference in the car's performance
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
$10 scan tool. Sorry, doesn't cut it in my books.
Is the 'live feed' portion of this scanner one's own, 'can't tell the difference' commentary?

Respectfully, you get what you pay for.
It ha worked well in the past . Always given me correct fault codes for EGR valve, Transmission conductor plate, issue etc.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
That circuit may only be active during certain phases. I too have an inexpensive OBDII scanner $20 by Autel and it was able to tell me that the most likely cause of my 'check engine' (money light) light was a loose fuel cap.
You may have hit the nail on the head. After driving today for 20 minutes the Check Engine light came on. Connected my $10 OBDII and got code P0140. Went to dealer and got the thin tube. Needed only 4", but had to pay $8 for two 12" tubes. Connected the pipe and viola. Check engine light gone. Code gone
 
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Unhook that yellowed plastic line and go to Home Depot. Go to the plumbing section and look at the hard plastic water lines. There are a bunch of different sizes. It doesn’t need to be exact. find the line that the same size or slightly bigger and remove the old yellowed garbage and put the new piece in
You dont need to rtv silicone anything. The rubber is what seals the line by compression.
That was my first thought exactly. Went to Home Depot. They did have small diameter rubber pipe that looked very close to the Yellow garbage. But it was sold in large spools costing over $25. I thought that was too much money for a 4" hose. I guess I must not have gone to the plumbing section. Any way I got the job done for $8.