whats the best recommended spark plug for these trucks ? I called the local real autoparts and they had a few brands available. I assume this takes a platnum plug, looks like 16 of them.
jeffdoerr
I don't know about BRAND but in relation to TYPE, get the OEM single-electrode plug from AutohausAZ.
Anecdotal evidence on this Forum reveals that the more expensive, fancy, multi-electrode plugs do not increase fuel mileage or perfomance.
ps.
Yes, you need 16 plugs.
Anecdotal evidence on this Forum reveals that the more expensive, fancy, multi-electrode plugs do not increase fuel mileage or perfomance.
ps.
Yes, you need 16 plugs.
Bosch 7422. No fancy pancy multi tip plugs please.
Ironically I did the plugs on my E500 and it had the factory installed production plugs in it.
They had the MB logo on them and they were NGK plugs. When I did the ML they were Bosch
with the MB logo on them.
The OE NGK plug is the IFR5D10 also know as the 4696.
I would go with the Bosch and save some money.
Just for giggles I went on to EPC net and got the OEM part
0041591903 which is superseded by 004159190326.
$8.75 list at the dealer and $6.04 at parts.com
Turns out to be a dice roll as to what they might be from a dealer
or online MB OEM like parts.com.
They will have the MB logo, but could be made by Bosch, NGK or Beru.
I am going to call the dealer and see what they have the shelf. I am
quite curious now. EPC net had 3 numbers listed and then a not that
said 0041591903 is now the stocked number. Then when I went
to try and order them the number 004159190326 came up.
Ironically I did the plugs on my E500 and it had the factory installed production plugs in it.
They had the MB logo on them and they were NGK plugs. When I did the ML they were Bosch
with the MB logo on them.
The OE NGK plug is the IFR5D10 also know as the 4696.
I would go with the Bosch and save some money.
Just for giggles I went on to EPC net and got the OEM part
0041591903 which is superseded by 004159190326.
$8.75 list at the dealer and $6.04 at parts.com
Turns out to be a dice roll as to what they might be from a dealer
or online MB OEM like parts.com.
They will have the MB logo, but could be made by Bosch, NGK or Beru.
I am going to call the dealer and see what they have the shelf. I am
quite curious now. EPC net had 3 numbers listed and then a not that
said 0041591903 is now the stocked number. Then when I went
to try and order them the number 004159190326 came up.
I just installed 16 bosch 7422's (also seen as known as FR8DPP33, F8DPP33) and replaced the wires. The difference was like getting a stage 1 chip tune. There is more low end torque and more hp at the top.. the engine just feels and sounds better. Don't be seduced into the marketing for multi-electrode plugs.. just go with stock.
They were all single tip plugs. The reference to multiple plugs is that each cylinder has
two spark plugs. Lots of fun to change. I did wait until 100k miles the first time and
I did the wires also. The plugs were a total PITA to get out. Every single time I started
to loosen one they creaked and squeaked. I prayed one would not snap off. It was at that
point I disregarded the MB instructions to not use anti seize and did apply some to the
threads of each new plug. I also did wires at the same time as the original wires were
getting stiff and did not want to go back and do them later if needed.
The time has come to pull a couple out for inspection to see if replacement is needed.
If my E class is any indication it looks like 70k miles is about it for plugs based on our driving habits.
two spark plugs. Lots of fun to change. I did wait until 100k miles the first time and
I did the wires also. The plugs were a total PITA to get out. Every single time I started
to loosen one they creaked and squeaked. I prayed one would not snap off. It was at that
point I disregarded the MB instructions to not use anti seize and did apply some to the
threads of each new plug. I also did wires at the same time as the original wires were
getting stiff and did not want to go back and do them later if needed.
The time has come to pull a couple out for inspection to see if replacement is needed.
If my E class is any indication it looks like 70k miles is about it for plugs based on our driving habits.
ur a better man than me.. took me about 3+ hours. But it was my first time changing plugs on any vehicle.
If you're not sure, stay with the OEM plugs. The reason I say that is because these vehicles run very hot by design and plugs play a crucial role in transmitting that heat. Usually spark plugs come in hot/cold heat range. I haven't researched the ML's yet, but just make sure you match the proper heat range otherwise you could run into some serious performance issues.
Side Note: The OEMs work very well and you feel the difference when you replace them.
BTW, question for the smart ones: I'm old school, but does the heat range issue even apply to modern automobiles or are they all designed now to run hot?
Side Note: The OEMs work very well and you feel the difference when you replace them.
BTW, question for the smart ones: I'm old school, but does the heat range issue even apply to modern automobiles or are they all designed now to run hot?
It does apply, but more to climate and driving habits/style.
If a vehicle is a just a highway cruiser and never sees more than 3000 rpm a different
heat range can be used. I change them often on my track car which is street legal.
Different ranges for track vs street.
My personal opinion on the ML is that is built as a world vehicle to handle all climates.
So unless there is an absolute reason to change heat ranges I would stay in the
stock range as you suggested. That would apply to all the modern German cars.
The wrong plug could ruin a head.
I know an owner of twin turbo Z like yours and he has it all pumped up. He runs one
step cooler and the car has better response and is smoother throughout the entire
rpm range from idle to red line.
If a vehicle is a just a highway cruiser and never sees more than 3000 rpm a different
heat range can be used. I change them often on my track car which is street legal.
Different ranges for track vs street.
My personal opinion on the ML is that is built as a world vehicle to handle all climates.
So unless there is an absolute reason to change heat ranges I would stay in the
stock range as you suggested. That would apply to all the modern German cars.
The wrong plug could ruin a head.
I know an owner of twin turbo Z like yours and he has it all pumped up. He runs one
step cooler and the car has better response and is smoother throughout the entire
rpm range from idle to red line.
The only way to really know is with an impedance test. I posted the specs for German
wires several weeks ago. I will see if I can find it.
Mine went out at 113k miles. I am doing plugs this spring again and already hav
a new set of wires. Over 90k miles on the current set. I got Berus from World Pak.
Some people like the Bosch. I have been using Bosch wires for almost 30 years, but
in the last 8-10 years have noticed difference in their durability. I won't buy them now.
Their plugs and other products seem fine. I just noticed on my VWs the wires were
giving up in a few years and I used to get ten years out of them.
wires several weeks ago. I will see if I can find it.
Mine went out at 113k miles. I am doing plugs this spring again and already hav
a new set of wires. Over 90k miles on the current set. I got Berus from World Pak.
Some people like the Bosch. I have been using Bosch wires for almost 30 years, but
in the last 8-10 years have noticed difference in their durability. I won't buy them now.
Their plugs and other products seem fine. I just noticed on my VWs the wires were
giving up in a few years and I used to get ten years out of them.
Found it.
Assuming the 55s wires are the same material as the ML430 then typically
resistance should not be over 5,000 ohms per inch or 100,000 ohms total.
Now that is a general range for a fixed resistance wire which if I recall MB
has been using for about the last 12-13 years or more.
I have a set of Nology wires on the track car and they read almost zero. Whole different
ignition and wire construction.
Assuming the 55s wires are the same material as the ML430 then typically
resistance should not be over 5,000 ohms per inch or 100,000 ohms total.
Now that is a general range for a fixed resistance wire which if I recall MB
has been using for about the last 12-13 years or more.
I have a set of Nology wires on the track car and they read almost zero. Whole different
ignition and wire construction.
You won't hear the radio from all the interference. On the old mechanical ignitions tuners
could make more power with them. With today's electronics I am not sure what would
happen. I told my engine management guy what my plan was and he ordered them up.
They were custom made. Nology off the shelf wires are not the same. So he modified
the ECU and ignition to get as much juice to the plugs when I am at 7000-8000 rpms for up
to 60% of a lap at Road America.
It was $560 for 8 wires. OUCH
could make more power with them. With today's electronics I am not sure what would
happen. I told my engine management guy what my plan was and he ordered them up.
They were custom made. Nology off the shelf wires are not the same. So he modified
the ECU and ignition to get as much juice to the plugs when I am at 7000-8000 rpms for up
to 60% of a lap at Road America.
It was $560 for 8 wires. OUCH
Thanks Noodles. Did the wire upgrade work for you on Lap of America? I'm not complaining about my daily excitement, but I wish once in a while, I had the opportunity to do stuff like that!!!!! I have certainly learnt something more about spark plugs and I hope Jeff (the OP) doesn't mind this useful deviation.
IMO they helped much better than stock. OEM ignitions are just not up to to the endurance.
Even the supercars have upgraded ignitions for the endurance races. It is a hoot to look
over the upgrades on a car that already cost $450,000. I drive a lowly SVT Cobra.
The Ferrari guys have brakes worth more than my than my car.
I hope Jeff is okay with this. It is a fun and now informational thread.
Even the supercars have upgraded ignitions for the endurance races. It is a hoot to look
over the upgrades on a car that already cost $450,000. I drive a lowly SVT Cobra.
The Ferrari guys have brakes worth more than my than my car.
I hope Jeff is okay with this. It is a fun and now informational thread.
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