EPC lists PN 117 200 33 01 for 380 and 500SLs.

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Sinece I am not at home to look on EPC, many thanks to Rowdie! I can pick up a 380sl pump locally now! New and not Reman is the way I am heading on this project.

 

On a related note, is there a part number for the short hose between the pump and the top of the block or is this just a cut piece of stock rad hose?

 

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1. Are there any special MB tools needed for this job?

From Section 20 of the EGv107...


Water Pump Replacement HOWTO on earlier 107's by Radio Tek

 

thanks for all of the quick replys guys!

 

I'm in the process of doing it now on my 380sl. Maybe I'm stupid (my ex told me I was), but the writeup here wasn't clear (at least it wasn't to me) on one big thing, and that is: the pulley at the harmonic balancer unbolts with (on mine) 6 13mm bolts. Once it is removed, the harmonic balancer can also be removed (it's held on by the same 6 bolts) which allows access to almost all of the water pump mounting bolts. One of the bolts is blocked by the distributor so it must be removed too, then the water pump comes right off. I did not have to remove the radiator, but did remove the fan. The thermostat housing and the housing to which the radiator hoses attach as well as the short hose to the engine block can be left on until the pump itself is free, then can be changed as necessary. The difficulty I had was recognizing that the harmonic balancer came of with the pulley. Although Dave tried to tell me here otherwise, he was subtle, and I thought I'd have to remove the large bolt on the crankshaft to get that off, and removing the balancer is key to replacing the pump.

 

distributer removal / Harm balancer

I have been reading radio Teks write up on teh removal of the water pump, and am I correct to assume that the distributer does not need to be removed for the 1984 model? I know I should never assume.

It also appears the harmonic balancer may or may not need to be removed depending on the alignment of a notch that allows you to back out the lower bolt with enough clearance to remove the bolt.

anyone done this job on a similar year model 500sl who can enlighten me on these two points?

Thanks

 

I have been reading radio Teks write up on teh removal of the water pump, and am I correct to assume that the distributer does not need to be removed for the 1984 model? I know I should never assume.

It also appears the harmonic balancer may or may not need to be removed depending on the alignment of a notch that allows you to back out the lower bolt with enough clearance to remove the bolt.

anyone done this job on a similar year model 500sl who can enlighten me on these two points?

Thanks

The '84 M116, yes and yes. I believe that to be true for all years.

Your '84 M117, you're the guinea pig. The early cast iron block M117 needs neither the balancer or distributor pulled. Strife2 mentioned the balancer had to come off on his aluminum block 5.6 M117. I don't recall him mentioning the distributor.

 

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Sorry, guess I kinda figure these designations get tossed around so much everyone is in the know. Your 5.0 liter aluminum block engine is an M117.

Mercedes Engine List

 

M117.962 Alum. Block. Pretty sure it is only the early model iron blocks that had room to remove the bolt.

 

Thanks Rowdie, at least it looks like the Dist will not have to come out. I do not have a timing light

the balancer will not be a problem IMO as i do have PB plaster and a dead blow

I will look at it closer this weekend, so the only reson I see that the Dist needs to be pulled is to get access to one of the pump mounting bolts, correct? So if I can access all bolts, then the Dist should stay in place.

Thanks all!

 

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If the distributor needs to come out, do it last, after removing the pump and any of the tasks that might require rotating the engine. Mark the the position with a Sharpie or some such and reinstall the distributor first thing after mounting the water pump. As long as you don't turn anything while it's out and index it clearly you can get by without a timing light.

 

isthisdave, I was thinking the samething as I have done this many times on other engines (Chevy, ford). If I am reading all of this right from Radio Tek and the reposnse from you guys, the engine is only manually turned to achieve the clearance needed (align notch in balancer, etc.) to remove the lower pump bolt? If the Harm balancer is removed then there should be no resaon to rotate the engine with a breaker bar? Is my logic correct on this?

Thanks again!

 

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That would require removing the crank snout flange which is held on by that 27mm bolt torqued to 300nm that people think needs to come off to pull the balancer.

 

300nm :crybaby2: looking at my craftsman TQ wrench it only goes as low as 360NM which is = to 25 in lbs. so what is the big deal about that?

my wrench has a NM range from 361-2908 +/- 10 for the adjusting twist handle.

confused on that one, do people not understand what Newton Meters are? Is it they do not have a 27mm socket? is it a special socket? thin wall maybe?

I am a FAA licensed A&P Mechanic and I have a pretty good set of tools. I like to have all the info first on how to do the job, not get into the job and then find out there is a special tool or process that I can not do at home. So that is why I am asking all of the questions, you and Rowdie have been a wealth of help.

thanks again,

D

 

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300nm = 221.26864479 ft/lb

 

300NM = 221 ft lbs.

 

Beat me to the draw again.

 

he must have posted it seconds before you did.

Thanks guys!

 

putting on my glasses and taking another look at my TQ wrench, God Damn it there is a decimal in there it is a range of 3.60 - 29.08NM. Obviously we do not use NM in aviation....:bowdown:

So I will need a bigger wrench!

 

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I just wanna know which airline to avoid....

 

OUCH!!! now that was not fair :surrender:

 

I do not personally own a TQ wrench that big, they are always supplied by the tool crib at work. Now that is a problem! I hate to buy tools I only use one time or rarly use again. how much other stuff on this car is TQ'ed to that range?

 

You can probably rent one at the local auto parts store for a nominal fee. They put a deposit for replacement cost on your credit card but refund it when returned.

 

Tex- Suggestion: If you don't have to, don't remove the bolt. On another forum (Landcruiser- ih8mud.com) someone wrote that the way to remove it was with a special "hammer-wrench" that is like an arm attached on one end to a socket, and at the other to a point which you strike with a large hammer. It provides the impact/force necessary to loosen (and later tighten) the crank nut. But, if your seal isn't leaking my advice is don't mess with it.
The harmonic balancer will come off with the 6 bolts that hold the pulley. You can easily see whether or not the distributor has to come off if it's blocking one of the bolts. Ned

 

Thanks Ned, after looking at it I am almost positive the dist has to be removed. I can get the needed tools to do it from someone at work. I suspect the seal is leaking. I can see some fresh oil down in there behind the balancer and I have been seeing some small spots of oil on the drive. This car did not get alot of use it would set for long periods between use from the previous owner, he was in the hosp fighting cancer for almost 6 months and then chemo/rad for alomst as long afterwards. So car has bassically set for about 1 year untill I aquired in Dec. Now that I am driving it, these leaks are showing up. When I had the oil changed a few weeks ago the tech told me it looked like the seal was starting to leak. Now the water pump has bassically goes out also. Well the honeymoon is over, time to get to work! Oh the joy of older cars, the reason we are all on this forum:thumbsup:

 

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OTC Tools 5073 1000 Lb Cap Torque Multiplier

 

A "must have" for all shade tree mechanics.

 

The tool I was referencing is like an arm which, if you can imagine, a socket is attached at the point where your arm meets your shoulder, a hammer (heavy) strikes at (imagine) your balled fist. It pivots at a joint where your elbow would be and twists the socket. Clear? I saw one at the Auto Hobby Shop at our local Luke Air Force Base, but have never seen one anywhere else. It could be used between the radiator and the nut on the crankshaft. Anyway Tex, good luck and keep us posted. Ned

 

Thanks Ned, will do

 

crankshaft front end sealing - how to replace?

I am changing my water pump. Just noticed the crankshaft front sealing seems to be leaking.

Any advice how to change the crank shaft selaing are welcome. It seems I have to make a special tool to hold the pulley flange while opening/closing the big 27mm bolt.

- how you have alligned the pulley against crankshaft woodruff key, the service manual pictures are not as clear as I hoped.

 

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I seem to recall roncallo posting about an MB flywheel tool that locks the motor at the flywheel ring gear.

 

OK - I will need the Detent tool 116 589 01 40 00.

Does any BW member has a drawing of this detent tool or picture with dimensions? I would like try to copy this tool.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

If it's a 500, it is a 117.

The short hose is best obtained at a local shop that will sell a few inches or foot of 41 mm or 1 5/8 radiator hose.

 

I searched from forum "flywheel tool" and found this advice:

"I got the nut off today. Yes it is very very tight used a 5ft pipe slipped it over my wrench and I got it off. I did not have the tool with the teeth that locks the flywheel so I used a 1/4" plate and positioned it at the edge of the flex plate so it was wedged. I did not want to use the teeth of the flywheel as to not damage or break any teeth. Came of perfectly with no problems."

Sounds good, i want to follow these instructions.

What kind of tool is this 1/4" plate?

Is the "edge of flex plate" flywheel?

The whole thread is here

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...107-sl-slc-class/1654414-1985-380sl-project-timing-chain-rails.html#post5266901

 

I searched from forum "flywheel tool" and found this advice:

"I got the nut off today. Yes it is very very tight used a 5ft pipe slipped it over my wrench and I got it off. I did not have the tool with the teeth that locks the flywheel so I used a 1/4" plate and positioned it at the edge of the flex plate so it was wedged. I did not want to use the teeth of the flywheel as to not damage or break any teeth. Came of perfectly with no problems."

Sounds good, i want to follow these instructions.

What kind of tool is this 1/4" plate?

Is the "edge of flex plate" flywheel?

The whole thread is here

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...107-sl-slc-class/1654414-1985-380sl-project-timing-chain-rails.html#post5266901

Not sure what he means by that. The perimeter of the flex plate IS the ring gear.

I take "1/4" plate" to just be .250 plate steel. Size or shape? You got me.