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2007 C230 engine replacement

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51K views 105 replies 19 participants last post by  thescirocco  
#1 ·
Hi all,
I've been told that I need to replace the engine in my car. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go for a good used one? Of course, the car is out of warranty; so I don't want to spend too much.
 
#4 ·
thank you

Thank you MBFinatic and wklopf,

I don't have a husband or brother to help me. So, I want to make sure I'm not getting taken advantage of. "Superior used auto parts" gave me a quote of $3520 for an engine w/12k miles on it. I've just never heard of them and am trying to determine if it is a legitimate business. I'm still searching and am about to checkout car-part.com as well.
 
#5 ·
The price sounds pretty good for such a low mileage engine, BUT, there are two big IF'S. The first is if "Superior Used Auto Parts" is a reputable business. You can check them out by going to the Better Business Bureau which serves your area and doing a check. The second big if is whether the engine is one which has the soft gears on the balance shaft which results in premature failure. You can ask Superior for the VIN of the car which the engine comes out of and post that here. Someone can check to see if this is an engine to avoid. Also, does their price include installation? Good luck. Bill
 
#6 ·
Bill,
The price is the cost of the engine and shipping. The mechanic wants to charge $1k, labor to put the engine in. I don't know if they're reputable or not. I'm thinking the low price/low mileage is too good to be true. I know they're not a member of the BBB. I'll call tomorrow to inquire.
As for the soft gears on the balance shaft, I'm not sure either. I'll call them tomorrow also to ask for the VIN. If they don't give it to me is that a good sign to look elsewhere?
 
#8 ·
I priced a MB c230 (not sure what year) (the timing chain had broken) engine for a customer a few years ago. The remanufactured engine (0 miles) from the dealer was only $500 more then the used engine (55,000 miles)from the junk yard. The warranty on a new motor is far better than used. Give your local dealer a call. They do not have to be the ones installing it.
 
#9 ·
Why do you need a new engine? Note that engine replacement in a MBZ is no more difficult than in any modern car (actually, easier than in most front-drive Asian and American makes). One reason I ask is because the V6 engine used in the 2006+ C230's had the possibility of a bad timing gear on the balance shaft. Is that what failed on yours? If so, a replacement engine may not be what you need. A used one might still have a bad balance shaft. Engines up to serial number 468993 had the problem. With the VIN from the donor car, I can tell you if it has a bad engine, or, just get the mechanic to check the serial number laser-etched onto the engine's bell housing.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thank you MDTAHOE. I'm actually waiting to hear from the closest dealer.

Rodney, the mechanic originally mentioned the cylinder and after changing the oil, he said it would be cheaper to get a new engine than trying to get replacement parts. He said the original owner may not have taken care of the car and didn't use the right oil. I am stuck going with his word b/c I don't know that much about cars and don't have anyone that can help me or make sure the mechanic is being honest with me. Do you know of any in Montgomery?

I have my data card; but don't know what I read when looking at it.
 
#13 ·
So there is a cylinder problem? Is it cracked, or scored or warped? What are the symptoms of the problem? Is the car drivable?

I don't know of any shops in Montgomery, but I do know of a good indy in Pelham - Momentum. Of course you could go to the dealer, too, but I am not sure Ingram is very good. I haven't heard much good about them, but then again, you usually don't hear much good about any dealer, especially when they are the only game in town.

Vin WDBRF52H67E026278 has M272 engine #433710.
Vin WDBRF52H36A848980 has M272 engine #180030.

Both of these are within the range of the bad balance shaft problems. Is one of these yours and the other the donor car? I wouldn't want either engine as the balance shaft failure is going to cost $4K+ to repair and requires pulling the engine. Then again, the bulk of the price is in the labor (at dealer rates) to pull the engine for the repair, so maybe while swapping engines, you might look into getting the balance shaft on the donor engine replaced. It's about $400 in parts. It's not difficult, but the mechanic does need to know what he's doing.
 
#14 ·
Are you sure that you have been advised properly on needing a new engine? Have you gone for a second opinion somewhere else? Is the person who told you this a highly rated independent mechanic specializing in mercedes benz?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Rodney,
Thank you for checking the VINS. Neither of those engines are mine. They're both ones that are being offered for sale. The car drives but it feels like it doesn't want to pull. So I wouldn't trust it on the streets or interstate. I don't want to pay several tow trucks to take my car to various shops.
The problem started when I was driving to a traffic light. All of the lights came on in the dash; but the car was still driving and I was stopped at the light when I noticed the car lost power. When I turned it backed on it started making a noise and the car started not pulling.

The mechanic specializes in imports. I can't say, specifically MBZ. He says the previous owner may not have used the correct oil in the car. The cylinder is cracked.

I honestly don't know what to do. I had the car for 11mths before this happened and now I am out of a job and don't know if it's worth fixing the car. I don't want to spend my savings just to fix it. I don't want to ruin my credit by giving it back to the bank that financed it. This forum is my only source of advice.
 
#16 ·
I just looked up the price on e Mercedes remanufactured engine. For the M272 engine, the list price is $10,500. There is a core credit of $4880, if your current engine meets their standards. This leaves a net cost of $5620. That engine includes a 50,000 mile warranty. If your engine was not acceptable for the core credit, you could probably pick up one which did for a lot less than $4880. Going the rebuilt route would not be cheap, but you should have a better idea of what you are getting. Here is the link to the pricing page which I found. Bill

http://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/vcm/MBWholesaleParts/Files/Engine Flyer_Revised_Oct. 2010.pdf
 
#17 ·
Thank you (wklopf) Bill,
It looks like it's costing more and more to fix it and I don't want to spend all I have on just repairing a car. Like I said, this forum is my only source of advice and you all are helping me alot. Yet, I have no-one locally that can help me or tell me if the mechanic is being entirely honest (meaning my only option is to replace the engine). I love the car, it looks good, and I want to keep it since it's the first one that I've bought. But, I don't think it's wise to spend 5 or 6 or even 10k on a car that I owe 12k on. I want to cry now. :crybaby2:
 
#21 ·
Otherwise replace the conductor plate on your 722.9 tranny with a new virgin one...and flash it with the new Nag3, and sister it to the engine you buy.
Remember, once the plate is used, can´t be change it again to other engine configuration.
Best choice and lower cost is to replace both with warranty.
 
#22 ·
v1c0m4n,
I don't know if you've read any of my latest post. But you're about to make me depressed. I lost my job and am living off of my savings. I would love to keep my car. But, I don't think it's wise to spend my savings on just repairing a car or to spend an amount on repairs that equals or comes close to what I owe on the car.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what a welfare agent has to do with anything or where that came from. The mechanic thinks the previous owner may not have taken care of the car properly. I just called them and told them to tell me exactly what's wrong with the car. He said there's sludge and oil in the motor and I would be better off replacing the engine than trying to part and repair it.
The car does run and will probably drive, but I haven't driven the car b/c I didn't know what was wrong with it and did not want to make it worse.
 
#25 ·
First of all. Stop using e85 if you do.
There is an additive brand called "LiquiMoly" German Tech, add two cans of "Liquimoly Ceratec 300ml", and one can of "Liquimoly Viscoplus for oil 300ml" on your previously heated engine, therefore run it at least 40 miles, and let it rest. (recomended mixing it with mineral oil, not synthetic.
This procedure will decrese considerably the vapours of oil in your admission.
Also install: "Godspeed 1000ml Aluminum OIL Reservoir Catch CAN Tank JDM Greddy Style Universal Fit Polish Color" available in Amazon.
Cheap tricks to stop burning oil for a least of 35000 miles, until you get a Job...