Rough idle? Rough acceleration? Really rough in reverse? Over 50,000 miles? I bet your motor mounts have leaked out all their oil and your engine is sitting on your frame - metal touching metal! I speak from experience.
I replaced my motor mounts today. It looks hard and was easy and took about three hours. Here's the details.
Remove the plastic splash guard from under the motor. There are holes in the crossmember that allow easy access to the motor mount's lower bolts. Remove the lower bolts. By the way, purchase a set of ratchet wrenches before you start - you'll want them when you work on the upper bolts. I would have paid alot for a set when I needed them!
The passanger side upper mount is best reached from the top. Remove it and the metal shield under it. This will take a while because you can get about 1/12th of a turn before running out of room between the motor and the inner fender. Thus the value of the ratchet wrench - there is not enough room for a socket wrench.
The driver side upper bolt is best reached from under the car. You might as well unbolt the AC compressor now, because you'll need to slide it forward to make a path big enough to remove the driver side mount later. The driver side upper bolt is best reached throught the space where the compressor was. By the way, only three bolts hold the compressor to the engine and it's easier to remove if you take off the surpentine belt before loosening the bolts. While wearing gloves, you can pull on the belt sufficiently to displace the auto tensioner and slide off the belt. Remove the upper bolt and metal shield.
I used a one foot long 2X4 and a floor jack to raise the engine. I positioned the 2X4 across the oil pan (perpendicular to the drive shaft) and raised the engine about 1 inch.
The passenger side mount is removed to the rear over the stearing rack and the driver side mount is removed to the front where the AC compressor was. Both are a tight fit.
I had to raise the motor another inch for the new mounts. Be sure and line up the little post on the top of each mount with the slot it fits in. You'll know what I mean when you're doing this repair.
Don't torque the bottom bolts until threading the top bolts or the top bolts may not line up well. Tighten all four bolts, bolt on the AC compressor and attach the splash guard.
I was able to pull the surpentine belt tight enough by hand (in a glove) to move the auto-tension pulley over far enough for me to put a screwdriver handle in the space between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley. (This tip should suggest how accomplished a mechanic I am!) This creates just enough slach in the serpentine belt path that you can get it back on. Remember to remove the screwdriver!
Start your car and enjoy being amazed at the improvement this repair makes. It is worth the trouble - just not worth the hundreds of dollars of labor charges everyone wants!
Good Luck - you can do it!
I replaced my motor mounts today. It looks hard and was easy and took about three hours. Here's the details.
Remove the plastic splash guard from under the motor. There are holes in the crossmember that allow easy access to the motor mount's lower bolts. Remove the lower bolts. By the way, purchase a set of ratchet wrenches before you start - you'll want them when you work on the upper bolts. I would have paid alot for a set when I needed them!
The passanger side upper mount is best reached from the top. Remove it and the metal shield under it. This will take a while because you can get about 1/12th of a turn before running out of room between the motor and the inner fender. Thus the value of the ratchet wrench - there is not enough room for a socket wrench.
The driver side upper bolt is best reached from under the car. You might as well unbolt the AC compressor now, because you'll need to slide it forward to make a path big enough to remove the driver side mount later. The driver side upper bolt is best reached throught the space where the compressor was. By the way, only three bolts hold the compressor to the engine and it's easier to remove if you take off the surpentine belt before loosening the bolts. While wearing gloves, you can pull on the belt sufficiently to displace the auto tensioner and slide off the belt. Remove the upper bolt and metal shield.
I used a one foot long 2X4 and a floor jack to raise the engine. I positioned the 2X4 across the oil pan (perpendicular to the drive shaft) and raised the engine about 1 inch.
The passenger side mount is removed to the rear over the stearing rack and the driver side mount is removed to the front where the AC compressor was. Both are a tight fit.
I had to raise the motor another inch for the new mounts. Be sure and line up the little post on the top of each mount with the slot it fits in. You'll know what I mean when you're doing this repair.
Don't torque the bottom bolts until threading the top bolts or the top bolts may not line up well. Tighten all four bolts, bolt on the AC compressor and attach the splash guard.
I was able to pull the surpentine belt tight enough by hand (in a glove) to move the auto-tension pulley over far enough for me to put a screwdriver handle in the space between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley. (This tip should suggest how accomplished a mechanic I am!) This creates just enough slach in the serpentine belt path that you can get it back on. Remember to remove the screwdriver!
Start your car and enjoy being amazed at the improvement this repair makes. It is worth the trouble - just not worth the hundreds of dollars of labor charges everyone wants!
Good Luck - you can do it!
