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Some more Pics of Blown Mounts



Amg et al,

Here are some more photos of new vs. old mounts. You were right AMG I am Shocked at the driveability difference. Like butter on ice!

I wanted to also include a picture of a tool that actually allowed me to get the job done. This is a picture of my new little friend. We will call him "Mr. Stubby." He weighs in at a few ounces but please notice the oversized "lollipop" head. That means a "fine" gear. I think it is 75 tooth. The overall length is 5" and it has a wobble head.

Honestly I do not know how AMG got the top bolt of with the normal size 3/8 drive. The handle was too long for me to get my paws in there and do anything with. I found Mr. Stubby at AutoZone for $12. The brand is Great Neck I believe.

There are two additional points I want to make:

1. Instead of disconnecting battery under the seat just pry the smooth panel off in the passenger foot well behind the battery and disconnect the Negative cable there. It is a 10mm bolt I believe.

2. Second, do not remove the idler pulley unless you absolutely have to. There should be a 17mm nut just below and to the left (maybe a 1/4 inch below). That is the lug that you torque on to push the idler back up in order to release the serpentine belt.

Other than the tool suggestion and the previous 2 points I did everything else in AMG's DIY and was amazed at the difference the new mounts make. All of a sudden the torque and acceleration has come back!

My mounts were bad! Next is the Sunroof repair and new shocks!

Drew

 

Another home-run shot, G-AMG. Thanks so much!

The most stunning pic is the one of the old and new next to each other. Yikes is right!!

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

It is a grand slam!

Much appreciated, G-AMG.

 

Just an FYI - the job is a lot easier on the diesels. No need to mess with the compressor. Just unbolt the old mounts and install the new ones. Good write up though.

Len

 

Its a good write-up yes, one point is that there is no need to remove the compressor on any of the models. Its a matter of lifting the engine in the right place. :thumbsup:

 

Eric, please do tell!!
What is the trick? I couldn't see where you could squeeze the left sided mount in or out.

 

There is no trick, its a simple case of two guys and one with the tyre levers in the right place to move the engine(which is already jacked up) into the right postition:thumbsup: Just takes a little thinking about, we do them every day and no problems:thumbsup: Admittedly it does take a little wrangling but its not that difficult. But if one person tries to do it on his own-no, it wont work.

 

good job !!!

 

I cant believe you were wearing your Submariner while doing that job... hahaha... mine comes off the minute I walk in the door... and off any other time I might have a chance of dinging it.

Nice write up though!! Very thorough!!

 

LOL, do you then put it on a winder? These automatics need to be on the wrist.

 

Nice

tool tip,I will clip it and put it in my clipmarks.com account,for future reference.
ohlord:bowdown:

 

Well, in the closing days of Autohausaz's sale (through 10/31), I just ordered a pair. Sooner or later I know I'll need them, total is $100.62 including the free shipping. Can't beat that deal.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

TNTRower,

I'm glad you are as happy as I am, with our "new" rides.

Just a comment, I didn't remove the V-Belt Tensioner. I did the same as you, just "torqued" the 17mm fitting on the Tensioner. The E10 comment was regarding the "Old" style Tensioners, which took an E10 Torq fitting to "Torque" on.

Also, like I mentioned, a "Fine" ratchet is preferable. Unfortunately, mine is 1/2" drive, so it didn't fit. Nice "stubby" though!!

Cheers!

 

My mistake on the Pulley. I red it the write up and thought I had to remove the pulley. I have always had a problem with reading comprehension

The fine ratchet is definitely the answer. I had to actually use a lever on the handle of "Stubby" to make the initial turn.

 

Just did my E430 mounts today. What a difference!! Super easy job on the V8. Plenty of room to drop the mounts out without removing any belts or moving the AC components out of the way. All it took was an 8, 13, and 16mm socket set. I flat rated the battery disconnect by jamming a couple of rags over the alternator so I wouldn't short out the electrical connections if I slipped up with the ratchet. Its not the safest way to handle that problem but it works for me. Be warned however that the right thing to do is disconnect the battery. You could easily get shocked or short out your electronics if you don't.

Car idles so smooth now and job was super easy. If you need mounts don't hesitate to try this DIY. Its especially easy on the V8. Took me less then 1.5 hours including the time to jack up the car and dig out the tools.

 

Great minds think alike and all that. I just finished replacing the driver's side mount on my E430 today. The top bolt can be a pain as there is no room for leverage. Used a gear wrench, 16mm, and a 18" pry bar for leverage. Moved the wrench as close to the engine block as possible and used the pry bar to move it with good leverage. Only did the driver's side because it was definitely the one that failed. I could see the fluid all over the engine and mount. My early childhood on the farm taught me not to fix it if it wasn't broken so I'll wait on the passenger side mount. The engine was lifting about 4" with the bad mount so I figured I better do something or find my engine inside with me. Now when I pull up to a stop light my teeth don't chatter. The E430 eight cylinder is longer than the six so there is a lot more room forward to remove the mount. Thus no need to mess with the a/c compressor. All in all it was a very pleasant DIY and hats off to the forum and G-AMG for the helpful tips and photos.

 

Thanks....

...to G-AMG for another well-documented DIY. A few comments for those who, like me, have a 606 diesel in the W210. Disclaimer: Some of these comments may have been made earlier in this thread by others.

1. Although I did disconnect the negative cable behind the plastic panel (thanks to Drew -- I'd never known), I don't think it's necessary for the 606 engine. I wasn't near enough to the starter to worry. But I did it anyway. For the memory saver, I used a small 12-volt gel-cell wired to a cigar lighter plug. In my car, the key switch must be in position "1" or "2" for the lighter socket to be connected to the electrical system. Personally I'd rather have it 'live' all the time.

2. Access to the mounts on the diesel in-line 6 is great, as Len said earlier. No need to disconnect anything. I had a hard time with the upper bolts, though. For the left side I ended up snaking a long socket extension down through the intake manifold but the right side was too crowded by the exhaust. I finally ended up using an open-end wrench and a pry bar for leverage and a neighbor. A crow-foot wrench on a long 1/2 inch socket extension would work better, I think. (Good excuse to buy a set.) By the way, the bolt size on my car is 17mm, not 16mm as the picture was labeled.

3. The right-hand mount has a heat shield. It stays attached to the engine and doesn't get removed. The upper bolt will not come all the way out, again because of the exhaust. I raised it as high as it would go, then used a vice-grip pliers with padded jaws to hold the bolt up so I could extract the motor mount.

4. I used a small bottle jack with a heavy piece of plywood under the oil pan to lift the engine. (After the new mounts were in, I was surprised at how much higher the engine sat.)

5. I found that it was easier to start the top bolt in each new mount first, get "tab A" aligned with "slot B" and then start the bottom bolt, which at least can be seen and lined up from below.

All in all, a lot easier job than I thought.

Jeremy

 

Replaced C220 mounts today without removing A/C compressor. After removing washer fluid reservoir and air filter housing I jacked the engine putting a twist/slant on the left side giving me the room to r/r the mount. Think this twist was same as using a tire iron to rotate engine. Car runs soooooo much better now.

 

IMPORTANT TO ELIMINATE FRUSTRATION...ON SOME MODELS...

I have a 1998 E320 W210 with a belt tensioner that has both a 19mm outer bolt (in the center of pulley) and a T-50 Torx with center 'nipple' or 'peg' in the center of the torx. If you can't get your tools on them to get a grip, take a look underneath the tensioner housing and to the left (passenger side on US models) and you might notice (on some models) a large integrated hex head (I think its a 17mm). You can slide on a socket and use this to release the tension on the belt.

I grappled with the pulley bolt and torx and found them to be stripped enough to cause great angst! Then I found out about the hex head nut underneath.

Problem solved...and now I can continue with my mounts.

This thread is a lifesaver!! G-AMG, you rock! :surrender:

Johnny

 

SUCCESS!

Just did the mounts on my 1998 E430 - easy job! A BIG THANKS to G-AMG for the DIY and torque specs, much appreciated! :thumbsup:

Some notes:

1) I disconnected the battery. Easy to do - there is a small plastic access panel in the rear passenger seat footwell area. An 11mm socket will undo the negative connection there. Remember to leave your driver's seat in the favorite position. Upon restarting the car and hooking the battery back up, I immediately saved the seat memory and you also have to re-sync the windows and sunroof (press up and hold at closed position for a few secs). Also got the BAS warning which went away after driving a bit and restarting.

2) There was NO NEED to disconnect the AC compressor with the M113 V8. At least not for my model year. As someone else with the V8 mentioned, there is plenty of room to slide the mounts out.

3) Only tools I needed were the standard sockets/ratchets, torque bar and a regular jack.

4) Tip about marking the old mounts with a Sharpie before removing to remember orientation is a good one! Make sure to line everything back up as per the little notch.

5) I did remove the fan shroud - you will probably need the clearance, so you may as well remove it. Very easy - two clips at the top, remove them and slide the shroud up.

All in all took me about 1.5 hrs. Could easily do it in 30-45 mins second time around. Slowest part is the upper bolts, not much room to ratchet.

Here are some pics - the driver's side mount was completely TOAST! Leaking oil and the rubber was shredded.

I honestly can't believe the difference now! I swear that the engine is off at idle, it is ridiculously smooth. I think that since they fail slowly, you don't really notice it until they get bad. If you have a shudder or vibration at idle, check your mounts. Easy and inexpensive DIY and the results are worth it.

Big difference in height!

Oil's not well here!

 

Nice write up..This should be a sticky

Note

on the W210 Wagon/Estate the drivers side motor mount is a LOT harder as you have Two Metal lines going to the rear suspension that are in the way...As I have done a few..

 

Mark, it is a sticky, that's how I found it! :thumbsup:

It's under the DIY stickies that gregs210 posted, under 'Engine...'

Cheers.

 

Am I just imagining it, or does the new mounting has a plastic/rubber body, while the old one was metal?

 

the mount has a metal "cup" outside and metal "Shaft" inside what is all vulcanized with the rubber. Even when the rubber deteriorate the shaft is not leaving the cup, therefore judging the condition of the rubber is so difficult.
What you see on the picture is metal cup painted black, what matches the rubber color.
Looks like Benzboy got different mounts than original, so the shape is slightly different.

 

They are something other than OEM; you can tell by the bottom as well, smooth not ridged. It is weird that they vulcanized the whole outside, but maybe that will provide a bit more insulation and they will last longer.

The right (passenger) side on the E320 V6 can be done from the bottom with a flex-head ratchet coming in from the back to get the top bolt. Given the proximity to battery amperage at both the starter lug as well as the alternator lug, it's definitely indicated on that engine to disconnect the battery. The ten minutes to resych everything is cheap insurance. From my perspective with the driver's side it was harder to deal with the AC compressor than with the motor mount.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

WOW 135 Canadians???? That's a fortune in US$
I complained spending like $80 at autohouseaz for mine..
Only because the mounts for ML (same engine) cost about $26
About 7 years ago mounts for W123 were nine bucks.

 

Yeah, tell me about it. The US has a much larger market share and presence, so many things are still quite a bit cheaper in the US.

 

I just checked autohausaz and see only one engine mount listed for the 2002 e320 wagon 4matic. I thought there are 2 and that they are different. I am confused. Thanks.

 

Excellent instructions (engine mount). If only the W163 forum can get the same.

 

Any concern crushing the oil pan? Plan to do w140 and it would be nice to have similar detail