The owner’s manual will have the sync procedure. If you don’t have the owner’s manual, @bsclifton has them on his old site:

https://www.benzworld.org/posts/18483401/

 

Thanks! I've tried looking into it and it turns out the the key was still synced to the car even when neither had power! Green light's on the receiver and all!
I'll still having a no-start issue, however.. I've seem to have disabled the anti-theft, but still no start..
I have heard that the crankshaft position is issue a problem as these cars age.. Maybe that could be it??

 

Point infrared at mirror. Briefly press button twice. Within 30 seconds put key in ignition switch and turn to position 2

 

Thanks a bunch ! I've tried looking into it and it turns out the the key was still synced to the car.
Still trying to pin down the culprit of the no-start problem I'm having

 

Does the car turn over, or is it dead? Dash lights? Other features of the car, radio, lights, climate control.

 

Yeah! It turns over with no delay. Dash + interior lights, infotainment, and climate control all turn on without an issue

 

It take air, fuel and spark to run the engine.
You should look into those areas.

 

Check, check, and check. It nearly started on a few occasions and had full on ignition for a moment after hitting it with a bit of starter fluid.
I've seen a few other R129 have similar issues after their crankshaft position went out. Not sure if that'll be the issue.

 

Sounds like you have air and spark. Recommend fuse check in base module
and if good, measure fuel pressure on the rail. You are getting close, keep
looking. If you can scan the ECU for codes, that might help too. Good luck.

 

Now that I thought about it, I've actually never checked the fuel pump relays and their respective fuses in the trunk! I pray that's the culprit, it'd be a decently cheap fix!

 

Did you fix the issue? What was it?

 

I'm not sure, but I'm definitely getting close.
Installed a new fuel pump and it's working and moving fuel, but it seems that something is preventing fuel delivery into the engine.
Apparently the camshaft position sensor can cause that.. So I'll likely change both alongside the crankshaft position sensor just to play it safe and go from there.

 

I want to follow up on my post #10 earlier. Did you physically check the fuses
in the N16/1 Base Module? There is a possibility that the injectors are not getting
switched power, thus restricting fuel flow to the cylinders. Take a look at the
link below and make sure you have verified the fuses in the N16/1 module are
functional. Hope this helps.


See figure 1 in link

STAR TekInfo

 

I looked into it and the for the N16/1 module, the fuse cover AND a fuse were both MISSING.. So without the fuse diagram, I don't know what fuse goes there or if the other fuses are the correct amperages. What should I do from here? Which fuses go where and is there a part number to the fuse cover?? I'd want to get a new one to be careful..

 

My SL600 has a similar situation. The cover is missing and the fuse values are
different with respect to F1 and F2, both are 20 Amp, F3 is 15 Amp. According to
the electrical troubleshooting manual, F4, the empty slot is not used for the
ME-SFI injection systems. No clue about the fuse cover door part number.

Your fuses should work, why are they not to drawing spec is a mystery. Perhaps
a post production service bulletin made a change. Attached find a photo of what
my car has along with a couple of PDF'S that might help. One PDF is the legend
for your base module schematic diagram. The second PDF is a schematic for
your car's fuel injection. You may want to note that the Z7/38 splice joint is where
your injectors get switched power for operation. If you are handy with a volt-ohm
meter you might verify the fuses are good and that you have supply voltage at
any of your injector connectors, pin 1, with the key on, switched power.

The link below will get you access to the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) for
the R129. The ETM and the Startec Diagnostic manual are intended to support one
another and should give you what you need to figure out your car. It is not real
intuitive as to how they relate, but you will figure it out with a lot of study, if you
have not done so already.

Note: You can use Google Chrome to view everything but wiring diagrams, it will
download "xxx.DWF" files you can view with an external program or app. You
can manage Microsoft Edge in explorer mode with additional adjustments to view
drawings and not download them for viewing with another software tool like what
happens with the Chrome browser.

Select Model for WebETM

STAR TekInfo

Hope this helps with getting fuel to the cylinders.

 

I checked them out with a little fuse tester and they seem to still be putting out power. Do you think I should swap out that red 10A I have for a 20A just to play it safe??
I've also checked through the fuse box and theres quite a few fuses in with the wrong amperages given the diagram.. I'll have to buy a bunch of new fuses to make sure they go along with the diagram.
I might also look into the cam and crank sensors, maybe(?)

 

See Test Step # 17.1 in the link and read from left to right, you will see coil resistance.
Do not hesitate scrolling through test items for information. It is there, but
doesn't jump out at you, with review, you will find or stumble over it.

STAR TekInfo

Technician actions can be painless, just takes some time and patience.
There is also a four letter word that shows up now and again: L U C K

If you live near an O'Reilly's or Autozone, you might be able to check out or
borrow a fuel gage with a hose or adapter that will fit the rail connector in
your car. Again, go to the Star Tekinfo and find the test procedure for fuel
pressure measurement. You will measure pressure and make sure the injectors
are not bleeding down. I recall that when I checked my car, I had to go to one
of my buddies who had a gage set for a 1991 Corvette. His gage fit my rail
adapter perfectly. FYI

Perhaps the most important technician tool is the art of "Visual Inspection."
Many times your eyes will show you a faulty item like a broken or bare wire.
Take a close look at the harness that leaves the N3/10 engine control unit
and connects with the injectors, you might have rodent damage or wiring
damage from heat, moisture or poor production quality.