If you PM me your email I will send you the right manuals.

 

Welcome to the forum, Donald. A few thoughts:
1) Pause for a few seconds in “on” position before turning to “start.” Does it start better? Could be fuel filter, leaking injectors, common for this age car.
2) There are several adjustments for the transmission (search this forum) but start with a fluid service. Many problems go away with this maintenance,
3) First, look for vacuum leak, also, lubrication of door lock mechanism.
4) Check all other bushings while in there.
5) Check engine and transmission mounts first, then flex couplings, then differential.
6) Anything electrical: be sure to check fuses and replace with copper ones first. They can be bad without looking bad. Your specific problem sounds like a bad door switch or broken wire… or… are you sure the switch on the dome light is set correctly? I think there is a defeat position on it, so you can work on the car with the doors open without draining the battery.

When you say “rebuilt” does that include timing chain, guides and tensioner?

There is a service manual index in the stickies… helps to navigate.

Regards,
Dave

 

dave420: thx for the suggestions: much appreciated. This weekend is my first Benz w/e! (Under the car). I'll update posts when. I make some changes. Best, Donald

 

Your sluggish starts and jerky kickdown sounds pretty typical for a 300se. They start in 2nd gear and if you want to start in first you can move the gear selector down to the bottom of the range and back to drive when the car is stopped. See if that helps. You may be hearing the fuel pump as the "whine" to which you refer. pretty common.

 

2) shifting into D off of N has slight delay and then kicks in a bit harshly; same with going from R to D, but only when engine is just started, better after running awhile; shifting while moving has some harshness, doesn't seem to shift at the right time;
Donald

Hi Mclare,

I also have the same transmission problem as the above with my 300SEL plus there is no kickdown effect too. Pls advice if you have a proper manual to rectify what is the problem. Will PM you my email address. Thanks in advance.

 

Just bought an '89 300SE needing a quiet, solid vehicle with a bit of luxury. Great car. Didn't pay too much. Cruises beautifully. 220k miles; rebuilt at 150k. It has a few issues:
1) sometimes takes a couple of tries to get it started; doesn't seem to be getting fuel sufficiently on the first try; idle is a bit rough

I had the same problem on my 300SE, rough idle, three tries to start, sluggish and low idle rpm until warm, sometimes even radio went off during first acceleration.
Just replaced the OVP relay and what a difference! Almost always starts at the first attempt, higher idle rpms and starts off right away!

Engine mounts for sure needs to be checked as well!

 

Thanks for the information. I'll check out the OVP relay, whatever the heck that is.

 

You will find it just behind the firewall, first thing to see there with a transparent plastic lid and one or two 10A fuese underneath it.

The most interesting thing I found was, that the relay didn't even seem to be (completely) broken. Both fuses were ok (I had the double-fused OVP) and the ABS light was not constantly burning (it comes on when driving over a bump, but I guess that's a different story).
Still, after putting a 'new' one (a used I found on eBay for $20; part number is 201 540 37 45) in, the engine starts immideately and has higher idel rpm. Also the radio is not shutting down anymore when 'flooring' the pedal the first time after starting.....

Good luck!

 

The OVP relay "Overvoltage Protection Relay" is between the two firewalls in the engine bay, next to the brake fluid reservoir. Here's a thread with a pic and reference:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...rums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1533016-1987-420-sel-just-107k-miles.html#post4251943

 

the courtesy light issue is the "Seat Belt Warning Buzzer Relay" You can fix by soldering the circuit or buy a new one.

 

I share a couple of the same problems with you, I have a 300SEL.

My transmission is a little jerky when changing gears, it gives a small "push" or "jolt" when changing gears. Only does this when stationary, ie from P to R, or R to D etc.

Kickdown works fine, changes gears smoothly while driving.

My front courtesy light, does not come on when i open the front doors, i have to push it in or hold it with my finger against the little bit it stops at.

Same with the reading light (the white one), i really have to play with it to get it to stay on. Im guessing contacts are worn but dont know how to take it apart or fix it.

Oddly, by rear courtesy light works 100% every time.

My car will not start if the lights or radio or both are on, too much for it
If i rush start it it sometimes wont start, but turn it almost all the way (so the fuel lamp stays on) for about 2 secs then do it, starts every time.

It's like we have the same car

 

Kristov, your little jolt when going into gear is normal. All autos do it that i've ever driven. The front interior light probably has gunk in the switch or something. The whole thing just pops out, one side first. Look for a little slot to insert screwdriver on one side. Dont force the wrong side though. Perhaps if you disconnect the battery, you can spray it with swiitch cleaner in situ and wiggle the switch on and off lots to clean the contacts.