Hey Vince,

Did you ever get info back on this? I am now having the same issue on my C300. Did you have the dealer take care of it? Was it a major repair minor repair? I have been searching online all day and I am getting conflicting info on it. Any updates on how you fixed your P2006 message would be helpful.

Thanks,
Marcus

 

Hi Marcus, I got no love on this site. Not one response to what seems to be a common problem. I am going to buy a new manifold for about $700-900 and have my local mechanic put it on for $100. It seems there are plastic rods that break on these and they cannot be fixed, only the whole manifold can be replaced.

 

That sounds like a very common problem described on Jeep/Sprinter forums. Is said that the motor which positions a swirl vane goes bad. But it doesn't seem to affect performance or MPG. A strategically placed resistor stifles the error code. Cost is under $2 in parts at Radio Shack. If you know an electronics tech or hobbyist the resistor is only a penny or two in typical quantities at DigiKey or Mouser but almost $2 for a pack of 5 at Radio Shack.

 

Vinflouen is correct. There is a plastic control rod/pivot arm that breaks. It is located on the front of the intake manifold down below the secondary air injection pump. If a guy was handy with fabrication, you could make or repair this. however, when the system is stable, there is constant pressure on this rod from the pneumatic element that controls it. inside the element is a return spring, which applies the pressure. over time, the plastic weakens and this return pressure causes the rod to break. so, the repair would have to be quite strong to withstand this pressure as it is quite strong. as of right now, Benz only has one repair: replace intake manifold.

 

Just checking in on this..I have a manifold that may either have the rod or the flap broken inside. I see on E BAY they have the repair kits for the flap inside, made of metal instead of the plastic. Vin, did you replace the manifold? Was it a broken rod or another part inside? -Frank

 

Hi Frankied, I never dealt with this, I just bought a new ML...The 06 started having vibrations on the highway at 73kmi and I just figured 'get rid of it'.
But from what I have seen, the only way to fix the issue is to replace the manifold.

 

Thanks Vin, On E Bay there are several kits that seem to be part of the solution, but one has a video of someone machining a metal arm that connects to the replacement flapper ( made or metal). The whole kits is about 100 bucks. I will look into it a little more and report back what I find.

 

Here is the link for repair kit.

Motorking Mercedes Benz Intake Manifold Air Flap Runner Repair Kit Gasket RK09 | eBay

 

Ditto on an 06 E350 4matic.

I'm getting the same code.


Intake runner control stuck closed,
then it misfires in Cylinder 1.
Check engine light.

Turn off the car and restart and everything is normal, light goes off.


How involved is this ebay part fix. Has anyone done it?

Thanks, Tom

 

It is not a simple fix. See:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w164-m-class/2106185-swirl-motor-intake-manifolds.html

 

I'm back, still have the code and the solution is still replace the manifold, or remove the manifold and replace the broken bits, making one out of metal seems to be the best solution. Although the check engine lite is annoying, I don't seem to have any performance issues and will eventually get to this.

 

2006 CLK-350 ...p2006 Code and p0015 Code

Hi Guys...Kenny here, I'm a new member this is my first post. Unfortunately my 2006 CLK-350 is giving me TWO codes:

** "p2006" Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1.
** "p0015" "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1

Right now the car runs great but I know that won't last long. Spoke to Mercedes Service ...they tell me the p0015 is no big costly repair,...probably less than $500. "BUT"...the p2006 code I'm looking at some money. About a year ago I had to have the transmission repaired...about $2,000 and I was really hoping it wouldn't give me any more problems for a while. Car has right at 100K miles..beautiful, a real head turner,...but I'm getting to the point now to where I'm wondering what I should do? Can anyone give me some advice on how to remedy this Manifold Runner Control problem without taking out a second mortgage in my house?? lol!! Thanks!!

Kenny

 

2006 CLK-350 ...p2006 Code and p0015 Code Hi Guys...Kenny here, I'm a new member this is my first post. Unfortunately my 2006 CLK-350 is giving me TWO codes: ** "p2006" Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1. ** "p0015" "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1 Right now the car runs great but I know that won't last long. Spoke to Mercedes Service ...they tell me the p0015 is no big costly repair,...probably less than $500. "BUT"...the p2006 code I'm looking at some money. About a year ago I had to have the transmission repaired...about $2,000 and I was really hoping it wouldn't give me any more problems for a while. Car has right at 100K miles..beautiful, a real head turner,...but I'm getting to the point now to where I'm wondering what I should do? Can anyone give me some advice on how to remedy this Manifold Runner Control problem without taking out a second mortgage in my house?? lol!! Thanks!! Kenny

Yes, fix it yourself. Look the parts up that need replaced and see how cheap they are and easy to replace and then slap yourself for going to a mechanic and taking anyone else's advice but your own.

 

Hi Kenny - I too just got that code yesterday - I have a CLK350 with 196000 miles. I'm anxious to understand the repair needed. Thanks for posting - I'll follow. Doug

 

I still have the code, and still have not decided to replace the intake with a new/used one. I keep thinking I will have this rod and other parts replaced at an independent shop. I have noticed that in the winter, and in the extreme cold, I do see a drop in MPG and also some rough idles. Also loss of power while cruising at normal speeds on rare occasions. I shift to N, turn off the ignition, turn it back on and shift back into drive(all on the fly) and the problem goes away. It did this last winter as well. Annoying ....

 

I have repaired 2 intakes using the metal repair kit off ebay. worked perfect on one. the other one I have to replace the vac linkage due to the "ball" end was also broken. I got that vac piece off another intake we had laying around the shop. I did these 2 repairs for another shop in town.




the p0015 fault code is for a cam magnet. you have 4. I suggest you replace all 4 at one time. MB has updated the parts. Or you can replace one now and 2 weeks later you will replace another one, and then 3 days later you will replace another one, and then 4 weeks later you will replace the last one. replace all 4 and be done with them.

 

UPDATE: I took my 2006 in to the dealership for an oil change and a few minor issues. Hood Open sensor failed....steering column plastic shroud was loose, some exterior bulbs and an oil change...and... the truck had been running rough at idle, difficult to keep it smooth, giving it the gas to keep RPMs up. After 2 hours, I was told it was a combination of the air filter and the cam sensor magnets on the left bank. Fairly reasonable and affordable repair. 2 more hours later, and they told me the truck , now..will not stay running at all...after they "fixed" the problems. I was told my intake manifold "cut loose" "finally went". 2000 bucks. No exact details as to what is wrong with the manifold, but the service adviser said it was probably cracked. So, since they told me it was DEFINITELY shot and no longer drive able, I had them replace it. Think I was "taken?" They have been very good to me in the past, and Ive had this nagging issue for a while. Was always under the impression it was the broken plastic bits on the manifold that's talked about often. What do you think, plausible? Im going to ask for my old manifold back.

 

Im going to ask for my old manifold back.

Ask now, don't wait until you pick up the vehicle.

 

I wonder if Mercedes have upgrade this intake manifold part in my 2009 facelift model????? Should I go get the aluminum upgrade kit first in case???

 

I am getting same P2006 and P0019 code. I bought below kit (Mercedes Benz Intake Manifold Repair Kit) from amazon. Going to install it and see if both or atleast P2006 goes away.

I am hoping it will work.

 

anyone has a video on how to remove the intake, is it a simple DIY?
THANKS

 

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mercedes+benz+w164+intake+manifold

 

Stuck open bank 2

Mine was, intake manifold runner stuck open bank 2. Searched through internet and found oil leaking from turbo gets into electrical connector just underneath, making connection issues. What I did, removed air duct, took electrical connector off and cleaned with electrical connector cleaner. Deleted codes and did not come back.
I suggest do this before anything else.
Make sure air duct seats the turbo well, might need new gasket, no oil leaking.

 

It's an old thread but seeing as it has been dug up, here was my fix to a compressor surge issue i believe i was facing at WOT thru the gears, i felt the rod wasn't opening the flaps up fast enough for the boost i am currently running?

And this simple trick now has all flaps wide open like a good old GGG porno gangbang and i am in love with this thing again.

First up if you want to watch it being done

The 4.7K resistors come in a pack of 8 for .85c so i had nothing to lose.
A couple weeks on or roughly 2 tanks of juice and no issues / lights / MIL or otherwise and my rig still pulls like the well maintained train that it is

Give it a go ... Daz

 

Hopefully my reply is more helpful than ol mates above it ...