easiest might be to just go get a key from the dealer. If you have proof of ownership, it should't be a problem. I have a device for engaging the starter (connect to wiring block attached on the passenger wheel well) for doing valve adjustments, but it cost nearly as much as a key - and you don't get glow plugs. I'm certain that the system can be "hot wired" but it might be more trouble than it's worth.

 

I didn't really want to spend any money on a car that I plan to part out. I guess that I might be able to sell the ignition switch with the new keys to recoup my money. The problem is that I don't plan to register the car or transfer the title to my name. The dealer may not be ok with a signed title in the previous owner's name. I just want to start the engine, drive the car around the block to check the tranny and rear end, then part it out.

 

No Key Start- W123

Hi-
As I see it: all you need to do is give the glow plug circuit 12 volts for about 15 seconds and then remove the 12 volts (you can access the glow plug circuit via the covered black relay box behind the left head light).
Next: activate the starter (soon after this glow plug cycle) via the 3- terminal covered screws on the passenger side wheel well in the engine compartment. You need to momentarily jump the 2 forward screws to activate starter.
Lastly: I highly recommend you get the fuel system clear of any air and make sure the Injection Pump is full of fuel & ready-to-go (pump the hand pump like crazy) before you try any attempt to start.
You'll have to stop the engine with the lever on the engine to kill engine without the key-switched vacuum.
That should get you started w/o the key.
I never shared this information- but everybody knows!
Good Luck,
Chris

 

I brought the car home today. It is in better shape than I had thought. I washed the exterior and under the hood. Some rats have been living under the hood, yuck!! I will try to start it up tomorrow. Rather than deal with the goo that is in the tank, I plan to make a mini tank under the hood with a bleach bottle or something. If the car runs well, I may try to get clean title and a key made. (It came with a rebuildable title, but the body work has already been done.) Will I need to pull the vacuum lines to keep the key switch from killing the engine while it is in the off position? Anyone know what line to pull?

 

The shut off valve is buried between the injection pump and oil filter housing. Disconnect the brown with purple stripe vacuum line leading to the valve.


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Simple, disconnect the two rubber fuel lines (fuel pump) from the metal lines (chassis) and insert them (rubber fuel lines) into a small makeshift fuel tank (i.e. soda bottle, etc...), disconnect the brown vacuum line at the back of the injection pump, disconnect the glow plug harness from the relay box (driver's side inner fender (behind headlight).

Apply 12 V to glow plug harness for ~30 seconds and then 12 V to starter (both terminals, large main terminal and small ignition terminal), once started remove 12 V from starter. To shut-off the engine, just push the injection pump throttle linkage towards the valve cover.

 

Terminal/Junction Block in front of the Battery.

The front portion of the Junction Block has one White Wire that goes down to the Starter Solenoid and one Purple (Violet?) Wire that goes to the Glow Plugs.
The other 2 Terminals to the read have Positive Voltage so it is easy to jump there.
You could remove the Screw from the Front Termnal and apply Positive Voltage that and activate the Glow Plugs for however much you want to pre-glow up to 30 seconds.
The connect the Positive Voltage to the White Wire that was also held down by the same screw and that will activate the Starter Solenoid and crank the Engine.

In the pic it shows where you would connect a remote starter switch if you just wanted to crank the Engine.

 

Awesome info!! Thanks guys. I think I have all I need to try to get this car started tomorrow. I knew about jumping out the start circuit from back when the solenoid on the starter went bad on my daily driver (83 300D). What I did not know was that the other wire feeds the glow plug circuit. It makes sense. You would want the plugs on while you are trying to start the car. I am guessing that there must be a diode somewhere to keep the voltage going to the glow plugs from the relay from trying to start the car. Am I thinking correctly that when you turn the key on and the yellow glow plug light on the dash lights up, the glow plug relay is powering the plugs for a certain time. Then when you turn the key to start the car, you get power to the plugs again? Sorry, I am pretty well versed in industrial electricity, but not so much in automotive.

I will report back tomorrow when I try to start the car.

 

I pulled the brown vacuum line and put a battery in the car. I shot a little starting fluid in the air cleaner housing and jumped the start circuit. The car fired right up on the 3rd try. Engine sounds good. I put it in drive and drove to the end of the driveway then backed it up in reverse, so the tranny passed the preliminary test. (The steering wheel is still locked, otherwise I would take it out on the road.) I would love to put this car back on the road, but it has a lot of rust under the front passenger's seat. There is a gaping hole in the floor and the seat is not attached to anything in the back.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

There is no Diode that in the wiring going to the Glow Plug Relay.

There is simply 2 different circuits that turn the Glow Plug Relay on.

One giving it positive Voltage from the Ignition Key (to the Timer inside of the Relay) and the other is Purple (Violet) Wire.

In the case of the Purple wire the Positive Voltage comes from the Ignition Switch through the Neutral Safety Switch and to the Starter Solenoid and then the White Wire from the Starter Solenoid goes up the Terminal Block where it connects to the Purple Wire.

Also the use of Starting Fluid can damage the Engine because heat from the Glow Plugs can ignite it prematurely.