Thanks for sharing your experience, atmsmshr - I'll add this to the Encyclopedia in the upcoming revision.

 

How often should the fluid be changed?

Rodney 2006 S500 4matic

 

How often should the fluid be changed?

Under my owners manual 'Practical Hints', page 343 it states: "The transmission has a permanent fill of automatic transmission fluid. Regular automatic transmission fluid level checks and changes are not required. For this reason the dipstick is omitted. If you notice fluid leaks or gear shifting malfunctions, have your [dealership] check the transmission fluid level."

That being said, most long term MB owners want their transmission serviced, and many on the forum think the 'transmission sealed for life' concept is not in the long term interest of the mechanism.

I asked my local MB dealership Service Advisor what they recommend to help prolong the life of the 722.6 transmission, and they stated a fluid and filter exchange every 40,000 miles would be beneficial, coupled with an adapter replacement. That being said, MB dealer ships use the ATF designed for the 722.9 transmission when servicing the older 722.6 transmissions. Not my preference, but it is allowed by current technical data. http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolistenmain.php?entercustomer=true&language_id=1

The 40,000 miles interval along with using the original spec ATF is the approach I take. However, everyone makes their own judgement and gets to live with the results.

Here is the English from German translation of the service bulleting 'clarifying' the sealed for life position described in our owner's manual.

New M-B bulletin, re: 722.6 & 722.9

In march of 2003, M-B released a bulletin, advising a one-time-only transmission fluid change @ 40 k miles.
This is to remove any particles that may have accumulated during break-in.
At the same time it is also advised to change the fluid on the 4-matic transfer case
****************************************

Circular PW NR. 44/05 NFZ NR. 20/05 24.03.2005 to all Mercedes
Benz partners

Introduction of the transmission oil changing with automatic
transmissions 722,6 and 722,9, as well as with the transfer case of
the 4MATIC-Typen 203/211/220 uniquely with 60.000 km.

Ladies and Gentlemen

A substantial criterion for the customer satisfaction with
automatic transmissions is the switching quality. This not only in the
newer status of the transmission, but constantly over the entire
Lifecycle.

After the introduction of the optimized lamella package in the
transducer bypass clutch (increase of the number of grooves on 72 to
02/2004) to the long-term stabilization of the switching quality, as
well as, the oil change represents a further step to the conversion of
the NAG1 to the oil used with the NAG2 for switching quality
optimization, in order to hold the switching quality also with high
run performances on a high level. In the oil stored particle is
removed by the unique oil change, whose entry takes place to a large
extent into the first 40'000 km and it can have impairments of the
comfort of the switching quality why a unique (and not in turn) oil
change was determined.

For this the again developed transmission oil ATF3353 (AO019894503)
makes an additional contribution that we fill in automatic
transmission 722,9 since serienanlauf, with these automatic
transmissions from house. In the transfer case of the 4MATIC-Typen
203/211/220 the oil 001,989 2303 is used, in order to likewise hold
the comfort self-shadows of the 4MATIC-Systems high level with the
change.

Deviating of it a transmission oil changing with the oil FOX ATF 28
(AOO19894603), developed particularly for it, is to be executed
starting from introduction with the transmission 722,8 (Autotronic,
type 169) all 60,000 km.

For vehicles with ASSYST the service position was already taken up to
the maintenance scopes. We will extend the service pages by the note
starting from FIN XXXXXXXXX, are evident starting from WIS update
03,05 the corrected service pages. For vehicles with ASSYST plus is
caused the service position to the service page automatically by the
maintenance computer. The modification of the data records necessary
for it is only possible starting from data record release 09,2005.

 

When I drained mine from the plug, it took 3qts. When I drained it from plug, then removed pan and filter I think it was 4qts-and change.

 

Fluid level



Chris - That is comparable to my last fluid quantity recovered, mine was 3.5 Liters. It is a shame that the 2000 MY and on do not have a Torque Converter drain, I can drain a lot more on my older cars.

Total fluid Transmission (proper fill) capacity is 9.1 liters, from Technical Data of the owners manual.

You should get a total of 3.5L drained and poured from the pan from a properly filled transmission (when it is cold). Some folks getting 5L are either draining it hot (a burn hazard and not required with a pan drop and filter change) and/or have an overfilled transmission.

After running for a few days after a pan drop, you can try a topside partial fluid exchange. A 1/4 inch diameter drain hose at least 32 3/4 inches long can be used with a fluid evacuator to get 2 Liters (cold) of AFT out through the dipstick tube. The 1/4 dia gets it past the fill tube restriction, the suction tube length bottoms out on the pan. (See photo, white extractor tube hanging down) After doing this a few times, the fluid will be 95% exchanged, without having to do multiple pan drains or breaking the banjo fitting.

 

Measuring ATF level

The transmission does NOT come equipped with a dip stick for checking fluid level. The filler tube has a locking plug in it from the factory. (A black locking tab usually means factory original, a missing or red tab means that someone not authorized has previously pried off the original)

When fluid level needs to be checked use a screw driver to pry the lock from the plug and remove the plug by pushing down the remaining piece with a thin blade screw driver. (The remaining piece will fall into the engine bay, not the transmission.) I no longer bother with reinstalling the lock tab. The plug top has stayed on all 3 of my vehicles and none have rattled off. The lock tab was just a tamper device for warrenty purposes, coupled with no transmission dipstick and the 'sealed for life' concept. (IMHO).

While in Park at idle, use the dipstick tool to check fluid level by inserting the dip stick into the filler tube until fully seated, wait 3 seconds, then remove the dip stick and check the fluid level indication on the dip stick.

There are two ranges, one cold (25 deg C) and one hot (80 deg C). Proper level in the cold range means that the fluid is at the bottom of the valve body and the pump is not sucking air. Proper level in the hot range means that the ATF is not challenging the float in the conductor plate (could cause frothing) and that the Adapter Plug is not submerged in oil. (Could cause wicking fluid inside conductor insulation up to the Transmission Module in the fuse box).

The tip of the dipstick shows these fluid ranges, which are only valid with the engine running and the transmission in park. The tip of the dipstick also has small diamond shaped 'wings' that come up against the tube stop. (See photo at 2.75 inches) The stop with the diamond wings allows the dipstick to hang down in the pan fluid (see photo), and not come in contact with the pan bottom.

NOTE - Some have advocated making their own dipstick - IMHO there is a high probability of error to accurately measure MB ATF level with the stop feature missing. Spend $30 to do it right and buy the tool. (Search for "722.6 dipstick" on ebay)

With the diamond stop feaure, the dipstick is a universal length that can be used with varing tube lengths. This means that the tool will have excess length hanging out when fully inserted. (Unlike those other brands were the stop feature is at the top of the tube.)

It is difficult to get a consistent reading AFTER filling by using the dipstick tube. For this reason, it is good to know the level of the ATF before the service, and to measure the fluid drained to help with proper refill.

 

code after changing trans fluid/mityvac tube size

Measuring ATF level

The transmission does NOT come equipped with a dip stick for checking fluid level. The filler tube has a locking plug in it from the factory. (A black locking tab usually means factory original, a missing or red tab means that someone not authorized has previously pried off the original)

When fluid level needs to be checked use a screw driver to pry the lock from the plug and remove the plug by pushing down the remaining piece with a thin blade screw driver. (The remaining piece will fall into the engine bay, not the transmission.) I no longer bother with reinstalling the lock tab. The plug top has stayed on all 3 of my vehicles and none have rattled off. The lock tab was just a tamper device for warrenty purposes, coupled with no transmission dipstick and the 'sealed for life' concept. (IMHO).

While in Park at idle, use the dipstick tool to check fluid level by inserting the dip stick into the filler tube until fully seated, wait 3 seconds, then remove the dip stick and check the fluid level indication on the dip stick.

There are two ranges, one cold (25 deg C) and one hot (80 deg C). Proper level in the cold range means that the fluid is at the bottom of the valve body and the pump is not sucking air. Proper level in the hot range means that the ATF is not challenging the float in the conductor plate (could cause frothing) and that the Adapter Plug is not submerged in oil. (Could cause wicking fluid inside conductor insulation up to the Transmission Module in the fuse box).

The tip of the dipstick shows these fluid ranges, which are only valid with the engine running and the transmission in park. The tip of the dipstick also has small diamond shaped 'wings' that come up against the tube stop. (See photo at 2.75 inches) The stop with the diamond wings allows the dipstick to hang down in the pan fluid (see photo), and not come in contact with the pan bottom.

NOTE - Some have advocated making their own dipstick - IMHO there is a high probability of error to accurately measure MB ATF level with the stop feature missing. Spend $30 to do it right and buy the tool. (Search for "722.6 dipstick" on ebay)

With the diamond stop feaure, the dipstick is a universal length that can be used with varing tube lengths. This means that the tool will have excess length hanging out when fully inserted. (Unlike those other brands were the stop feature is at the top of the tube.)

It is difficult to get a consistent reading AFTER filling by using the dipstick tube. For this reason, it is good to know the level of the ATF before the service, and to measure the fluid drained to help with proper refill.

I got a mityvac 7201 to work on transmission but the accompanying tubes don’t fit into the trans fluid opening. (722.6 5 speed in w211). If you happen to use this would love to know where you got the tube that fits.

Other questions from my first-time experience doing fluid and filter. 3L came out.
-was missing an adaptor to the torque wrench so haven’t yet torqued the pan bolts. Is this critical?
-tried to remove the connector to replace but couldn’t get it out. No sign of leakage there though high mileage car (228k). Put pilot bushing back in and when I’d finished job got both a check engine light (p0778 solenoid) and car only started in N then had to shift first to park to get R to work. Happened once on ramps then another time once on flat ground. Third time car started normally in P and shifted directly into R.
Do I:
-try to drive it and see?
- take the pilot bushing /connector out, look at it and re-seat it?
-have it towed to indy on mon for proper mbz scan?
Any other advice on schedule for evacuating and replacing more / rest of trans fluid? Colour is now v light brown w a little red coming through?

 

Car Jacking

Since a transmission service means you will be spending quality time under the car, here is one process for ease of jacking up the car, and to ensure your safety.

In order to maximize the ‘throw’ of the hydraulic jack arm:
1) Start the car and engage the Airmatic 'Raise' feature.
2) Place car on a level concrete surface such as a garage.
3) With an assistant, positioned 2 wooden chocks in front of the front tires, and roll the car up to sit upon these blocks.

Steps 1) and 3) together provide several inches of height for better clearance of the hydraulic jack handle.

4) Transmission in Park, shut off the engine, remove key and engage the Parking Brake.
5) Chock the back wheels using four 2x4s.
6) Position the hydraulic jack under the center lifting point in the engine compartment. (use a wooden block between the jack and lift point to gain additional clearance if needed)
7) Raise the car to the point to install the jack stands under the rubber pad side mounts behind each front wheel well.
8) Slowly lowered the car onto the jack stands, and then reclosed the hydraulic bleed screw with the wooden chock still in contact with the rubber center jacking point. (just for added safety)

The photo below shows the extra clearance for the hydraulic pump handle after doing steps 1 and 3. Without this extra clearance, you cannot use the pump handle.

 

Fluid Condition and Pan contents

What you find when you drain the oil and drop the pan is an indicator of the health of your transmission. There used to be a link available called ‘The Color of Money’ by a Transmission shop specializing in 722.6 transmissions. However, that link is no longer available. Some of the highlights are shown below, including some personal experience.

The use of a lint free white rag to wipe the dipstick on automatic transmissions is advised so that the color of the fluid can be checked. Dark brown or black ATF can be an indicator of a transmission problem, vehicle abuse, or fluid that has far exceeded its useful life. Overused ATF often has reduced lubrication properties and abrasive friction materials (from clutches and brake bands) suspended in it; failure to replace such fluid will accelerate transmission wear and could eventually ruin an otherwise healthy transmission. However color alone is not a completely reliable indication of the service life of an ATF as most ATF products will darken with use.

The Color of Money:

We have been conditioned to judge the quality of the transmission fluid based solely on it's color and smell. We have no way of judging the frictional quality. The rules have changed. The bright red color that we are all used to seeing may not be what you see when you look at the ATF in a 722.6. The reasons that the oil looks differently are as follows:

1) The oil may appear dark red due to the graphite material that the friction discs contain. This does not change the characteristics of the oil. Do not change the oil or transmission if the oil appears dark red or even if it has a yellowish tint to it. The color will change with time and temperature.

2) If a copper color is seen in the oil pan the bushings of the front or rear planetary gear set may be in the process of wearing out. Inspect the bushings and if they are defective replace the complete transmission. If they are not defective, then the transmission is repairable.

3) If a silver color is present in the oil it may be a clutch and steels moving up and down on the hub as they are being applied. This is normal! The particles should not cause problems as they will be trapped in the filter. The fluid could be drained, including the torque converter (if so equipped), and the lines flushed and the valve body should be disassembled and cleaned. Of course, replace the filter. This usually takes care of the problem. If you take the time to inspect and clean each slide valve for ease of movement and base position you will have a better valve body than a new one from spare parts. In more severe cases where the particles are large, then something is in the process of self destruction and the transmission should be either replaced or repaired. Don't forget to check the electrical solenoid valves. Shine a light through the top of it and see if it "leaks". If you drop the transmission oil pan and you find yourself feeling like a miner panning for silver, or knee deep in a graphite colored mud, then it's time for a new transmission. The new pans are painted black on the inside. The metal particles show up better against a black background as opposed to the previous unpainted silver pan. You must get used to seeing some metal in the bottom of the pan, with this 722.6 transmission this is normal.

4) Smell the oil. You know by now what burnt oil smells like. If it looks burnt, and it smells burnt, then its burnt. This means that your service interval needs to be more frequent to match your driving conditions.

Finally, some thoughts on filters. Due to the geometry of the pan drain plug, it is impossible to get all of the ATF out of the pan just through the plug. This drain is unlike the engine oil drain, and sits in a raised boss which will prevent graphite sludge and large particulate from being removed. Therefore, the pan must be dropped. The photo below from an S430 shows graphite wear particles trapped in the bottom of pan. This was more than what I've seen before, probably because I went close to 50,000 miles since the last service. The filter element is coarse enough to allow passage of graphite, but to stop metal particulate shown in the photo below from an ML320’s dissected filter housing. (Unknown mileage since last service since I bought it used) The coarseness of the filter is another reason to use lint free cloths and be surgically clean when servicing your transmission, because lint may travel past the filter to the seats of the valve bodies and solenoid valves.

 

Transmission Adapter Plug

Just so no one tries fixing a leaking transmission electrical plug with an inferior product........

After reading posts of the URO transmission electrical plug not being up to par, I got a MB plug from the Chrysler dealership to compare with the URO plug previously ordered from AutohausAZ. (A MB part in a MOPAR box, not something one would expect to see - ask for a Chrsyler Crossfire NAG-1 transmission adapter plug for $12)

A quick visual did not show any differences. A dimensional comparison of the plug bodies with calipers showed they were the same.

However, a dimensional check of the smaller O ring showed that the URO was thinner than the MB plug when installed on the plug. The upper O ring was also thinner. It is obvious on the photo shown below. Both plug adapters are new.

Once the O-rings were rolled off the plug bodies, the size differences became clear.

The smaller of the two O ring's is critical to keep ATF out of the conductor plate shroud connection (sealing location "1" - on photo)and the larger O ring keeps ATF from leaking to the outside of the transmission (sealing location "2" - on photo). A less tight fit of the URO plug may increase the chances of ATF leaking into the connector and wicking up inside the wiring insulation to the Transmission Control Module.

This past 6 months, I used a new MB connector plug on our ML and and suprisingly reused the URO body on the S class. For both, it was difficult to get the MB center 7mm bolt to engage than compared to the last time I changed a plug on our E420 – with a URO. Suspect that the smaller O-rings on the URO make for easier seating, but inferior sealing. Additionally, a closer inspection of the the center bolts between the two adapter plugs showed that the URO has an extra length of thread than the MB brand. This means that the center bolt will catch easier on the conductor plate cup (photo below, red circle.) If you cannot get the MB brand adapter in place, you may want to swap the MB O-Rings onto a URO plug body to take advantage of the extra thread on the bolt. This is what I had to do on the S, even after trying the tricks of of lubricating the O-rings with ATF and stuffing some paper towel inside the 7mm socket to get better seating force.

One more tip when you change the adapter plug - ensure that both of the O-rings come out with the old adapter. It will be nearly impossible to seat a new adapter with an old O-ring remaining in place.

 

What type of ATF to use?

I recently tried to buy more MB spec 236.10 Automatic Transmission Fluid from AutohausAZ - and it is unavailable / on backorder. Not only that, it is no longer available - anywhere. (Well, I do have five Liters left in my garage!) Looked for the equivalant 236.10 spec and MB and ATF Shell 134 - and found it available only in a 55 gallon drum.

After some consideration, I have ordered some Fuchs Titan ATF that is 236.12 spec approved. Haven't used it yet, but really don't want to jump up all the way to the 236.14 'backwards compatable' ATF that was developed for the 7 speed transmisisons and is used by the MB dealers.

Everyone gets to make up their own mind on what ATF to use. Here is an informative link to help you to decide:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1635794-236-10-atf-marketing-mumbo-jumbo.html

 

I recently tried to buy more MB spec 236.10 Automatic Transmission Fluid from AutohausAZ - and it is unavailable / on backorder. Not only that, it is no longer available - anywhere. (Well, I do have five Liters left in my garage!) Looked for the equivalant 236.10 spec and MB and ATF Shell 134 - and found it available only in a 55 gallon drum.

After some consideration, I have ordered some Fuchs Titan ATF that is 236.12 spec approved. Haven't used it yet, but really don't want to jump up all the way to the 236.14 'backwards compatable' ATF that was developed for the 7 speed transmisisons and is used by the MB dealers.

Everyone gets to make up their own mind on what ATF to use. Here is an informative link to help you to decide:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1635794-236-10-atf-marketing-mumbo-jumbo.html

The Fuchs stuff made my 722.6 shift harshly even after resetting the adaptations. Valvoline MaxLife ATF which is as close to 236.10 and is certified for the NAG 1 (722.6) made my shifts silky smooth!

 

Which cars have a 722.6xx transmission?

This may not be a complete list of MB vehicles with 722.6xx transmissions, but it's close enough for government work.

MODEL / YEARS / CHASSIS / ENGINE / TRANSMISSION for 722.6xx VIN:

C230 1997-98 202.023 111.974 ME 2.1 722.600 HA23
C230 1999-2000 202.024 111.975 ME 2.1 722.600/5 HA24
C240 2001 203.061 112.912 ME 2.8 722.6 RF61
C280 1996-97 202.028 104.941 HFM 722.604/5/629 HA28
C280 1998-99 202.029 112.920 ME 2.0 722.606 HA29
C320 2001 203.064 112.946 ME 2.8 722.6 RF64
C36AMG 1996-1997 202.028 104.941 HFM 722.604/5/629 HM36
C43AMG 1998-1999 202.033 113.944 ME 2.0 722.631
CL500 Coupe 1996-1999 140.070 119.980 ME 1.0 722.620 GA70
CL500 Coupe 2000 215.375 119.960 ME 2.0 722.6 PJ75
CL500 Coupe 2001 215.375 119.960 ME 2.8 722.633 PJ75
CL600 S600 1996-98 140.076 102.982 ME 1 722.621 GA76
CLK320 Coupe 1998-01 208.365 112.940 ME 2.0 722.607 LJ65
CLK320 Cabriol. 1998-01 208.465 112.940 ME 2.0 722.607 LK65
CLK430 Coupe 1999-01 208.370/470 113.944/943 ME 2.0 722.607 LJ70/LK70
CLK55 2001 208.374 113.984 ME 2.8 722.6 LJ74
E300 Turbo D. 1998-99 210.025 606.962 IFI 722.608 JF25
E300 D. 1996-97 210.020 606.912 IFI 722.600/8 JF20
E320 1996-97 210.055 104.995 HFM 722.605/629 JF55
E320 Sedan 1998-99 210.065 112.995/41 ME 2.0 722.607 JF65
E320 S. 4Matic 1998-99 210.082 112.995/41 ME 2.0 722.664 JF82
E320 Wagon 1998-99 210.265 112.995/41 ME 2.0 722.607 JH65
E320 Sedan 2001 210.065 112.941 ME 2.8 722.607 JF65
E320 S. 4Matic 2001 210.082 112.941 ME 2.8 722.664 JF82
E430 S. 4Matic 2001 210.083 113.940 ME 2.8 722.623 JF82
E55 AMG 1999 210.074 113.980 ME 2.0 722.623/4/636
E55 AMG 2001 210.074 113.980 ME 2.8 722.6 JF74
ML320 1998-99 163.154 112.942 722.662
ML430 1999 163.172 113.942 ME 2.0 722.663
ML55 2000 163 113 M 2.0 722.6
E320 W.4Matic 2001 210.282 112.941 ME 2.8 722.664 JH82
E420 1996-97 210.072 119.985 ME 1.0 722.625 JH72
E430 1998-99 210.070 113.940 ME 2.0 722.623 JH70
S320 1997-99 140.032 104.994 ME 2.1 722.605 GA32
S420 1996-99 140.032/43 119.9(7)81 ME 1.0 722.622/633 GA32
S320 1997-99 140.033 Long 104.994 ME 2.1 722.605 GA33
S430 1998-99 140.0 113. ME 2.0 722.6
S430 2000 220.170 113.941 ME 2.0 722.6 NG70
S430 2001 220.170 113.941 ME 2.8 722.632 NG70
S500 Coupe 1996-98 140.070 119.970 ME 1.0 722.620 GA70
S500 1996-99 140.051 119.9(7)80 ME 1.0 722.620/ 622 GA51
S500 2000 220.175 113.960 ME 2.0 722.6 NG75
S500 2001 220.175 113.960 ME 2.8 722.6 NG75
S600 1996-99 140.057 120.982 ME 1.0 722.621 GA57
S600 2000 220.178 120.982 ME 1.0 722.621 NG78
S600 Coupe 1996-97 140.076 120.980/2 ME 1.0 722.621
S600 2001 220.178 137.970 722.628 NG78
SL320 1996-97 126.063 104.991 HFM 722.603/5 FA63
SL500 1996-98 129.067 119.9(7)82 ME 1.0 722.620 FA67
SL500 1999-01 129.068 113.961 ME 2.0 722.620/.624 FA68
SL600 1996-01 129.076 120.983(1) ME 1.0 722.621/32 JH82
SLK230 1998-99 170.447 111.973 ME 2.1 722.605 KK47
SLK230 2000 170.449 111.983 ME 2.1 722.616 KK49
SLK230 2001 170.449 111.983 ME 2.8 722.616 KK49
SLK320 2000 170.465 112.973 ME 2.0 722.618 KK65
SLK320 2001 170.465 112.973 ME 2.8 722.618 KK65
SLK430 1999 170.4 113 ME 2.0 722.6

**MERCEDES 2002-2004 LINE UP W/ 722.6XX TRANSMISSION**

SEDANS
C240 Sedan - 2.6L 18-valve V-6 engine
C320 Sedan - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
C32 AMG Sedan - Supercharged SOHC 3.2L 18-valve V-6 AMG engine
E320 Sedan - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
E430 Sedan - 4.3L 24-valve V-8 engine
E500 Sedan - 5.0L 24-valve V-8 engine
E55 AMG Sedan - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine
S430 Sedan - 4.3L 24-valve V-8 engine
S500 Sedan - 5.0L 24-valve V-8 engine
S600 Sedan - 5.5L 24-valve V-12 engine
S600 Sedan - 5.8L 36-valve V-12 engine
S55 AMG Sedan - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine

COUPES
C230 Kompressor Sport Coupe - 1.8L intercooled supercharged DOHC 16-valve inline-4 cylinder engine
C230 Kompressor Sport Coupe - 2.3L/ DOHC 16-valve inline-4 cylinder engine
CLK320 Coupe - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
CLK320 Cabriolet - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
CLK430 Coupe - 4.3L 24-valve V-8 engine
CLK430 Cabriolet - 4.3L 24-valve V-8 engine
CLK55 AMG Coupe - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine
CLK55 AMG Cabriolet - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine
CL500 Coupe - 5.0L 24-valve V-8 engine
CL55 AMG - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine
CL600 Coupe - 5.5L 36-valve V-12 engine
CL600 Coupe - 5.8L 36-valve V-12 engine

ROADSTERS
SLK 230 Roadster - 2.3L intercooled supercharged DOHC 16-valve inline-4 engine
SLK320 Roadster - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
SLK32 AMG - intercooled supercharged SOHC 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
SL500 Roadster - 5.0L 24-valve V-8 engine
SL55 AMG - intercooled supercharged SOHC 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
SL600 Roadster - 6.0L 48-valve V-12 engine
SL500 Silver Arrow Edition - 5.0L 24-valve V-8 engine
SL600 Silver Arrow Edition - 6.0L 48-valve V-12 engine

WAGONS
C240 Wagon - 2.6L 18-valve V-6 engine
C320 Wagon - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
E320 Wagon - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine

LIGHT TRUCKS
ML320 Light Trucks - 3.2L 18-valve V-6 engine
ML350 Light Trucks - 3.7L 18-valve V-6 engine
ML500 Light Trucks - 5.0L 24-valve V-8 engine
ML55 AMG - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine
G500 Light Truck - 24-Valve V-8 5.0 liter engine
G55 AMG - 5.5L 24-valve V-8 engine

 

I don't know where the post I added yesterday disappeared to - but in addition to the list above, the 2005-2006 S-Class with 4Matic also have the 722.6xx transmission. They were not equipped with the 7-speed.

 

Most if not all the link in the original post are DEAD.

Can someone please update these links?

 

fastsvo - thanks for the heads up. I can't reopen the first post, so here is the link to the W210 Forum link for Transmissions: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1368898-help-tips-diys-power-train-drive.html

 

ATF choices

FYI - I put in just under 9 Liters of Fuchs Titan ATF that is 236.12 spec approved into our E420 last month and this ATF works like a champ.

The old MB ATF had just under 30,000 miles, and looked like it was time for an oil and filter change.

NOTE - this was a full fluid exchange, the '97 E has a drain on the torque converter which made a complete drain easy. Some members have reported problems with doing a partial drain from the pan and mixing 236.10 and 236.12 fluids. Unfortunately, the W220's do not have a torque converter drain.

 

I am due for this, and I have some questions.
Can the converter drain plug be retrofitted? (some mechanics swear they can do it)
What ATF to put into 2002 S430 (it was never changed since new - 73K miles)? Assuming converter stays full.
Don't want to mix fluids unless the converter can be drained.

 

I have not heard of retrofitting a TC drain. Anything is possible.

For torque converters without a drain, here is a technique to flush the system. Takes about 14 L of ATF.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1371714-flushed-my-tranny.html

At 73,000 miles - its time to change the fluid and filter. A check and change of the adapter plug is also a good preventive maintenance item to do at this same time (less than $20).

 

Hi, thank you very much for the diy instructions. I have a c230 sedan 2004, 4 speeds when you move it to tiptronic, what kind of transmission would my car have? 722.6 or 722.9? cause i was thinking of purchasing the filter/gasket and fluid and giving it a try myself.

 

I am not familiar with a 4 speed trans. The listing earlier in the thread shows a 722.6xx trans for your car (and this is a 5 speed transmission). Perhaps someone else can help to verify.

 

Most likely its a five speed including reverse. Im guessing it should be 722.6xxx i just dont know what kind of fluid should i use for it. I purchased the filter/gasket/dipstick for about $40, im just left to find out what kind of atf should i use.

 

AutohausAZ.com indicates you have a 722.6 trans, and offers Fuchs Titan for ATF. I have had success with this ATF blend, but only with a complete drain that you cannot do for lack of a torque converter drain.

You have a choice: try to source the Shell 134 which matches the original spec fluid, do a "Yummling flush" with 14 L as described in the W210 forum under the stickies, or risk a partial drain and fill using Fuchs (not recommended).

 

I purchased online febi atf 0133-1633520, to do a simple flush i was thinking of draining the tranny out, remove the bottom panel clean it and reinstall it. Fill up the tranny with the febi atf run for about half an hour that it reaches a higher temperature than drain it while is hot and thinner. Than remove the bottom panel again, replace the filter/gasket with the new ones and than finally fill up with febi. What do you think? Thank you for your prior answers. Anything helps.

 

I need to change the fluid in my 2003 S430, and want to do a complete change. I plan to disconnect the return line from the cooler to the transmission and let the engine idle until the fluid flow stops. I will then pull the pan, clean everything, change the filter, and reinstall the pan. I will then add about as much fluid as has been removed, let the engine idle until the fluid flow stops. Add about that much fluid, and let the engine idle until the fluid flow is clear and clean, or until it stops. After I get a clean fluid flow, I will reconnect the line, and add fluid to the lower (room temp) level. After getting the engine and transmission to full operating temperature, I will bring the fluid level to the full operating temp mark.

This will be a complete fluid change, including the torque converter, coolers and lines. I plan to get about fifteen quarts of Shell ATF 134, so I will have extra in case I ever need to add fluid. This fluid is MB-approved to the latest spec for the 722.6, and costs about $6/quart at the local Shell distributor.

 

Thank you very much guys for your very informative replies. Unfortunately the febi atf that i purchased was $13 per liter and i bought 10 litters . I do have a fluid extractor that i use for engine oil, its about 7 litters. Would it be a good idea if i leave the engine running and drain the atf from the tranny through the dipstick, and then get under the car change the filter/gasket and fill up with new atf? Will it remove the entire old atf? I dont have a garage, im actually doing this in a parking lot so im trying to find the easiest, not messy way of doing it.

 

I would recommend that you get 4 more Liters of Febi, and do the flush that Wally described, also called the Yummling flush in the W210 forum.

 

Hi everyone,

Sorry for taking so long been busy moving. In simple words I will try to explain the chronology of the events. Initially my car was jerking a lot, that was due to bushings as well and the mercedes dealership suggested that its misfiring. So what I did was replace front four bushings, and as i found oil in the spark plug room i replaced the gasket seal and rings, spark plugs and fuel filter. Jerking was still there so I came here and thanks to you guys I got directions on how to do the tranny oil change, the old oil looked muddy dirty. Havent noticed any metal but the dealership said there is metal in the oil, to whom i dont believe since they charged $300 only for removing the bottom cover to the transmission. So I did flush the transmission, changed oil filter, gasket seal and the jerking was gone, I could have never believed that all that jerking was caused by the transmission, not only when shifting gears but when hitting an uphill. The car ran perfectly fine for about 3 weeks. After three weeks limping started. The car drives for about three minutes lets just say fine, it does shift all gears since Ive drove it upto 60 mph but than it goes into limp, tranny doesnt engage. So I took the car to the dealership and they asked about 5 thousand to replace tranny, torque converter, pump and radiator. Instead i got under the car and noticed oil marks in the tcu connection, so i went ahead and replaced the conductor plate for the transmission, still the same. I opened and checked the wires and the hardware under passenger's feet and i found the harness and plugs to be worn in oil however no sings of oil in the black box of the circuit, i opened the box to and no marks of oil or damage in it. I wiped everything with a damp cloth and put it back together. Since i was making some tests the engine light turned on and it signals PO776 and P0763, I unintentionally cleared the codes. Im trying to upload a video on youtube so I can show how it runs and what would your suggestion be cause I dont know what to blame it on?

 

Mercedes C230 2004 Transmission Problem - YouTube this is the link to the video considering im not the best camera recorder but it requires way to many rpms to move, doesnt shift properly etc.