Thanks for the nice DIY post Yumling! If the Gods (Moderators) are smiling this evening, you might have even earned your immortal place among the DIY Stickys with this one.

 

That is totally diryy. Far from the color of a new, fresh fluid. Is this your first tranny flush on your car? How many miles ? Thanks.

 

Car has 80K and what you see already has 3 liters of fresh fluid mixed into it when I dropped the pan earlier, changed filter and put in a magnet.

Trust me it is a very very easy job. And no mess at all. And all that ATF is pumped out by the transmission with the engine at idle.so should be safe. ATF fluid is cheap so if you want to do a great job just go buy 15 liters and run it through the tranny.

I suspect that even if you botched up and pump too much out without filling in fresh fluid there should be no damage to the ATF because it is only for such a short time and engine is only at idle.

 

Yumling,
Magnet is already in the pan right? Just clean the old one ?

 

NO in the 2001 V6 there is no magnet. I was given the magnet. BTW I think there is a MB part number for this magnet. But I guess any magnet will do.

But although the fluid was brown, it smelled like ATF and I suspect that there is still quite of bit of life to it.

 

I

had some extra magnets the ones with the special slots that help trap any small metal from floating around so I sent him it free with the trans dipstick he purchased.Little did I know he would reinvent the complete trans and torque converter drain procedure I posted months ago:thumbsup:
Less the unintentional spraying of the engine compartment with high pressure trans fluid
I am sure he won't make that mistake again
:bowdownhlord

 

Hi Yumling

Very inventive, great job. By the way, how many liters did you flush out using this method? You must have spend at least $200 for the new fluid right?

JeffreyP

 

I think to do a complete flush you would need about 15 liters. The reason is because I dropped the pan to remove any crud and change the filter prior to the flush. After that I had to put in 3 liters of fresh fluid which is then mixed with the old. And on top of that you would need another 12 liters to flush everything out to be absolutely sure.

It does not cost that much if you buy it from online sites.

I also suggest that after you do the pan drop and new filter and 3 liters of fresh fluid, you drive around for 200 miles or so to clean out the system (that 3 liter of new fluid will have fresh additives) then do the cooler line flush with 12 liters.

I would imagine that your tranny is good to go for another 100K miles.

Remember, a more correct term would be ATF fluid exchange. Flushing sounds like forcing fluid through the tranny. All we are doing here is getting the tranny to pump out the old fluid while we pour in fresh fluid. There is no machine involved. And no revving of engine.

You can get AT fluid online for about $15/liter. You can get away with only 10 liters but I figure that since you go through the trouble might as well spend another $50 on fluids and get it super clean.

After this, I think I will do 50K miles fluid change via cooler line. Really easy and shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

 

Doing

the drain his way takes about 11-12 because he has no torque converter drain plug.Your 98 has one so you can use the diy procedure and save some money since you won't get all of the 9.5 nor back in:thumbsup:
figure on getting 9 and selling the left over or saving it for the next 60k mile change
:bowdownhlord

 

I just did 4 liter exchange by dropping the pan 3 months ago. Ohlord, by some reason, I tried but could not turn the engine/trans to see the torque converter drain plug then.

What yumling just did seems easy enough that I think I'll just get an extra 10-12 liters to flush/exchange the rest of the fluid. I was able to get a liter for about $10.50 then at autohausaz.com. It's the later ATF part #001989450310 but it's about $15.00 per liter now
Anyone know who still have the ATF for about $10 a liter?

Regards,

 

Per this forum recommendation I put Valvoline synthetic in my sedan. about 2000 miles so far running better and better (that thanks to changing some orings on fuel lines).
Valvoline synthetic cost $5.

 

If you used the Valvoline Max Life you are within spec for the 722.6 tranny. I verified this with Valvoline myself. I actually posted their reply about this matter some time ago on this forum. I've been using it for about 17,000 miles now with no adverse affects. Actually my tranny has never performed better.

 

valvoline

syn is atf4. ATF4 is not mb spec and if contacted valvoline will tell you it is not a substitution for the 722.6 fluid.So for 9qts times the difference of 10 bucks you are toying with taking out a several thousand dollar transmission.I still can't understand the logic of trying to save 10 sawbucks and playing russian roulette with the transmission.
Whatever rows your boat:thumbsup:
ohlord:bowdown:

 

syn is atf4. ATF4 is not mb spec and if contacted valvoline will tell you it is not a substitution for the 722.6 fluid.So for 9qts times the difference of 10 bucks you are toying with taking out a several thousand dollar transmission.I still can't understand the logic of trying to save 10 sawbucks and playing russian roulette with the transmission.
Whatever rows your boat:thumbsup:
ohlord:bowdown:

You read my topic, when I listed 12, or 14 quarts I used for transmission flushing, didn't you?
My local stealer charges well over $20 for MB fluid. Than I am taking low risk on transmission with 240,000 miles.
Do the math again.
Than if you call replacing synthetic fluid with other brand synthetic fluid a "Russian roulette" than mechanical study might be in order as well.

 

Thanks yumling for your DIY, it have been added to our DIY Section
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...-class/1368898-help-tips-diys-engine-transmission-differential-fuel-system.html

JOE55

 

yumling : you are a genius.:thumbsup:

 

Replacing 0w40 syn

with 20w90 syn oil in your engine would be fine with you using your convoluted logic,after all that would be replacing one synthetic fluid for another synthetic fluid.
ATF4 syn has completely different friction modifiers and shear factors and pressure and viscosity values then the mb spec fluid.
I have studied engineering,electronics,Radar,electronic warfare,engine design,suspension design and more.
Use what you want to use after all you're the guy who says you never have to flush your brake fluid because it is not humid in California therefore no moisture gets absorbed into your brake fluid :thumbsup:
If you have a 722.6 transmission and you choose to use anything other than the mb spec fluid to save a few bucks,you are better off not doing anything to the trans at all
:bowdownhlord
If I remember correctly you advocate not changing anti freeze either because it never wears out.
The only person around here that needs to study mechanical design and simple chemistry is pretty obvious

 

If I remember correctly you advocate not changing anti freeze either because it never wears out.

We are in the same age range, so I know the feeling. At this age it is better to write everything down, than speak from your memory.
It wasn't me, who advocated for 10 years/150,000 miles anti freeze change. It was Mercedes manual
In the mean time MB transmission operates on Valvoline fluid better, than on original one.

 

I don't

know what manual you are working from?Not the w210 model that is for sure coolant change,brake fluid change ,power steering fluid changes are in the 2-3 year range not 10 years
ever taken apart an aluminum block engine that has not had fresh coolant with the proper corrosion inhibitors?It is not a pretty sight,they eat themselves up from the inside out.
There is no service manual or service level A,B,C or what have you for the w210 model that states 10 years or 150000 miles on the coolant.
Recommended at three-year intervals to ensure proper cooling during the summer months and a safe level of antifreeze protection during the winter months

Every three years

- Pressure-test the coolant system, inspect all clamps, hoses, fittings and heater output

- Drain the system

- Replenish the cooling system with Mercedes-Benz spec organic acid silica fortified coolant.

some of the 03 and newer models have the new mb extended life coolant but neither my car nor yours or anyone on the w210 forum should be following your 10 year coolant interval.
ohlord:bowdown:
I trust that anyone reading this lively debate will know what transmission fluid to install in their 722.6 mercedes transmission
I have faith:bowdown:

 

From my experiences with Volvos, regular change of coolant is essential not only because of problems with the radiator. What we should be worried about is the heater core. No idea about how hard it is to remove the heater core for the W210 but for the Volvo 960 it means pretty much removing the whole dash - easily a 10 hour job!!!!!

I can afford a new radiator - buy it on line and bolt it on. But with a heater core - yikes!!

Also please use distilled water and buy MB coolant.

know what manual you are working from?Not the w210 model that is for sure coolant change,brake fluid change ,power steering fluid changes are in the 2-3 year range not 10 years
ever taken apart an aluminum block engine that has not had fresh coolant with the proper corrosion inhibitors?It is not a pretty sight,they eat themselves up from the inside out.
There is no service manual or service level A,B,C or what have you for the w210 model that states 10 years or 150000 miles on the coolant.
Recommended at three-year intervals to ensure proper cooling during the summer months and a safe level of antifreeze protection during the winter months

Every three years

- Pressure-test the coolant system, inspect all clamps, hoses, fittings and heater output

- Drain the system

- Replenish the cooling system with Mercedes-Benz spec organic acid silica fortified coolant.

some of the 03 and newer models have the new mb extended life coolant but neither my car nor yours or anyone on the w210 forum should be following your 10 year coolant interval.
ohlord:bowdown:
I trust that anyone reading this lively debate will know what transmission fluid to install in their 722.6 mercedes transmission
I have faith:bowdown:

 

I actually did the yumling fluid exchange method over the weekend and it was quite simple. First, I couldn't figure out how to get the intake hose out so I had to remove the fan's housing (? the housing part between the radiator and the engine fan) then I have a lot of room for turning the plug.
I had my partial change (dropped pan, replaced filter) about 4-5 months ago, so I thought I may as well give it a complete treatment now.
It was a snap, took me about an hour - the only thing that I need to warn is that AT fluid came out very quickly, as I did 2 liters at a time. It only took about 7 seconds after I started the engine. I ended up replacing about 10 liters, of course MB fluid
My AT has never seen clearer, prettier fluids for years now. Shifting seems smoother but I may be just my imagination.

Thanks :thumbsup:

 

Fluid Flow Path

80,000 miles on my 2000 and time to try this. I plan to drain and drop the pan, replace the filter and top-up fluid. Then yumling procedure immediately. My reasoning is that the fresh fluid will displace the old fluid in the torque converter, which in turn is drained at the radiator.

However, I am curious about the flow path of transmission fluid around the system: pan/transmission/torque converter/radiator/other? If the flow is from the pan/transmission directly to the radiator, then not much is achieved as the torque converter is bypassed. If the drain is at the far end of the system, then this is efficient.

Which is it? Can someone please explain the workings to this newbie?

TIA

 

I've been doing some research to answer my own question above. All I found was this reference to the Shift Valve in the "Mercedes-Benz Vehicle Communication Software Manual" (www.snapondiag.com/display/DocMgmtDisplayFile.aspx?fileid=4658):

"In the bottom position of the torque converter lockup control valve (lockup without pressure), the lubrication flows through the torque converter and the fluid cooler back into the transmission. In its regulation position (slipping, lockup clutch pressurized) a reduced lubrication amount flows through the annular gap directly through the cooler to the transmission bypassing the torque converter. The remaining portion of the oil is routed through an orifice into the torque converter for cooling the lockup clutch."

I'm not sure I understand what this means. If I'm doing the yumling flush with the engine idling in "P", is the fluid bypassing the torque converter, or not?

 

Nugent,

Thanx a million for the Snap-On Download.

If you go thru the thing, there is a GREAT section on how to make an even MORE refined "Re-Education" of the 722.6X Transmission.

Using the "Standard" re-set method, I have never been happy with my 1st to 2nd shifting quality, but using the "Detailed" re-training, WOW! Smooth as silk!

 

For some reason, that Snap on file is not working for me.

My tranny shifts nice and smooth, but it could always be better. Could you possibly let me know what the "detailed" retraining consists of?

Thanks.

 

Yumling

adapted from this method I posted a while ago.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1345780-transmission-fluid-change-tip.html
do not use amsoil use 722.6 or 722.9 fluid.You can shift through gears park to drive while doing the converter drain.Just make sure you don't drive it and spray fluid all over your engine bayHe learned that real quick.
dipsticks $42 delivered with pan magnet and more tips.
ohlord:bowdown:

 

Hi Nugent

I don't know the answer to your question about the ATF flow. But I did my fluid exchange for about 2 months now (about 2000 miles driven), and I've been checking regularly. Every time I checked, the ATF's still clear as the day I put it in. So I believe I may have wasted a few liters but it seems to be cleaning out the transmission quite nicely with both a filter change and the yumling's way. :thumbsup:

Good luck

 

Jeffrey,

Did you put your shiftselector in D while doing this procedure?

 

No, the shift selector was always in P. Remember you have to crank up the engine (for about 7 seconds) to pump 2 liters of fluids out at a time.

 

Possibly Uninformed Inquiry...

Could one pump all the fluid out using this method then add all new fluid, this way there would be less mixing. I wonder if enough fluid would remain around the mechanicals to protect them for the short time the levels would be low/depleted.

 

Could one pump all the fluid out using this method then add all new fluid, this way there would be less mixing. I wonder if enough fluid would remain around the mechanicals to protect them for the short time the levels would be low/depleted.

I wouldn't even try that with your transmission. Seriously, it would not work because once the level fell too low it would stop pumping. And the small amount of mixing/dilution is not enough even to think about, if you are concerned then just flush with a couple more liters.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

Thanks for the warning. Just wish there was a maximum value way to replace all the fluid. I did drop the pan and change the filter as per the DIY about 5000 miles ago, but I like the idea of getting at all of the fluid at once!

How much can I get out with my topsider, do you think?

 

You could

topsider it,and refill the temp gun or trns cooler method if you have the special dipstick.Even the flow method won't get it all changed since you don't have the tq.drain plug.So dilute it or just repeat what you did every two years of average driving.
:bowdown:

 

New Every Two. But I will continue to check it often.:thumbsup:

 

Feedback

I have made good on my previous threat to carry out this procedure. Here is a summary with comments.

Jacked up the front, using standard jack, lowered onto stands - first one side, then the other. This left the car tilted to the rear, with enough room for access with a creeper. Unscrewed the drain plug, drained to a container. Replaced the plug and dropped the pan with remaining fluid. Pulled off the filter and got some more fluid. Poured all fluid collected into a lovingly calibrated milk jug - nearly 3.5 liters.

With 81,000 miles, the fluid was brown, but with the original red color showing through slightly. It smelled ok. Consistency seemed close to original. Only a hint of sediment and no sludge in the pan. So I concluded that the fluid was in good shape and would probably have lasted another 20,000 miles. Nevertheless, a good time for a change.

Cleaned out the pan, fitted a new filter, gasket and drain washer, and closed her up. The loose filter is disconcerting, but pushed it all the way in, where it remained.

Lowered the car off the stands and added 3.5 liters from eBay Motors: 3 - OEM Mercedes Automatic Transmission Fluid Genuine (item 310065583636 end time Jul-21-08 15:00:38 PDT)

Pulled the radiator fan and disconnected the transmission fluid line to the radiator. This is where I had an oops. For some reason yumling's photos no longer come up and so I disconnected the lower line. Pushed 5/8" tubing onto the pipe, with the other end in one of my milk jugs. When my son started the car, fluid come pouring out of the radiator, not the pipe! So about half a liter was spilled, which I cleaned up with paper towels. With brilliant insight I realised that I should connect to the line entering the top of the radiator.

Correction made, I pushed out two liters, then added 2.5 fresh. Then another two out, two in - total 8 out and in. Up until this time, the fluid coming out looked old. Cheapskate that I am, I had bought only 9 liters. So I took out half a liter more. Now the fluid started clearing and I estimate about 50/50 old/new. The total capacity is 8 liters, so I took this as a good sign that fresh fluid from the pan was not short-circuiting on its way to the cooler and that of the 8.5 liters total removed, about 7.5 liters was old. This means I got more than 90% out. Considering that the old fluid condition was acceptable, I feel that this is a good outcome.

So I added half a liter, buttoned her up and went for a drive. Back home my laser thermometer give the pan temp as 79°C. Checked the level, which was slightly under the 80°C low mark. Topped up with about 250 ml and level showed about 3/4 to high. All good! Tomorrow I'll do a final level check and confirm no leaks and forget about it for a few years. I have 250 ml of my original 9 liters, just in case.

Thanks to yumling and other contributors for the interesting and money-saving experience.