Not familiar with the W124, but if the hydraulic tank is empty may be you can just fill it to get the top to lock. With the top working again, you can then move on to find the leak.
You need to use MB approved hydraulic fluid, not the 'cheap' one from Auto-stores or risk contaminating the rest of the system and more leaks in the future.

 

Thanks. I am waiting for Febi fluid to arrive. In the mean time I'd love to lock the soft top. I inspected it today again and found that there is a center latch (under the rear window) that is not locked. The pin did not go all way thru. I tried to push it and it did not go. I try to avoid brutal force.

 

Please tell us the year of your car.

MY93 300CE, MY94-95 E320 Convertible 124.066 chassis 104.992 engine

 

You can get a free, year-long subscription to the Mercedes EPC here ---> EPC-net Online it will list all the parts of the top hydraulic system including the cylinders and give you a general idea where they are with a diagram.

 

Please read the following thread ALL the way threw at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...ums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1296708-95-e320-cabriolet-hydraulic-top-operation.html

 

Bad leaking sound

Thanks a lot for the info. I read the above mentioned thread before posting here.
I added some hydraulic fluid and tried to play with the roof. It finally locked at the rear. I could hear fluid rushing from the pump.
I tried to open the roof and heard like a very bad leaking sound. All fluid was gone in a minute!
The sound comes from behind the rear seat backrest. Here are my next questions:

- how to manually unlock and open the cover?
- how to remove the backrest of the rear seat? I removed the cushion with no problem.
I want to get access to the leak to inspect it.

Thanks again.

 

Here are my next questions:

- how to manually unlock and open the cover?
- how to remove the backrest of the rear seat? I removed the cushion with no problem.
I want to get access to the leak to inspect it.

Since I have been the Moderator of the R129 Forum you are probably one of the first W124 members that has been advised to come over to our forum requesting information on your car. Probably because our cars have a total of 11 hydraulic cylinders that can/will need repair. And believe me when I say many of our older car owners deal with this routinely.

May I suggest that you check your Owners Manual for manually unlocking the rear cover. If you don't have a manual ask your W124 Forum if they have a 1994 MB E320 Cabriolet W124.066.PDF from there MB CD.

I'm sorry to tell you but most of us don't know your car's design but what I can do is suggest that there are several ways to approach your situation. Please read R129 STAR Classic Service Manual Library on DVD, STAR TekInfo, ALLDATAdiy, EPC
1) Go to your local library and see if you can get FREE information from ALLDATAdiy. If not you may want to purchase a full years subscription. I have done so and found it to be very usefull.
2) Buy a subscription to STAR TekInfo. It is essentially the same info that you get on a W124 STAR Classic CD. I have not gone this avenue but others have and they find it very good.
3) Purchase a W124 STAR Classic Service Manual Library on CD form Mercedes-Benz.
4) After you decide that you are going to DIY may I suggest that you contact Dennis Ficken. He can rebuild your cylinders for $40/each plus S/H. Please see Dennis Ficken contact info
5) This is a very valuable parts site at Russian Parts Site for the 124.066 E320

 

OK. Now I see huge leak just behind pass. rear wheel

It looks like all hydraulic fluid I added in previous step is on the ground. I assume it is a "standard" problem for this cars ? Gurus, please advise me which cylinder is leaking and how to get it out? Thanks.

 

My questions are:
- how to lock the rear of the top manually (very small gap is visible now, the top ALMOST locked)
- location of all hydraulic cyllinders in W124 body.

The diagram below shows the location of the cylinders.

 

Please read 95 E320 Cabriolet hydraulic top operation problem

I would PM 'Kestas' if I were you.

 

Please read 95 E320 Cabriolet hydraulic top operation problem - ShopForum

I would PM 'Kestas' if I were you.

Hello, I'm having a lot of trouble with my A124 / E320 1994 cabrio and was hoping to look at the link quited by Lynns but when I click on the hyperlink, it comes up as this http://www.*****************/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1653310#post1653310.

Does anyone have a working link for 1995 E320 Cabriolet hydraulic top operation problem, please ?

EDIT: Added in my own problem with my W124 folding roof system to keep the timeline straight in this thread.

Help !!

I just had this same problem today.

The roof would lower fine and wouldn't raise at all.
The red controller light/button on the centre console
goes bright red but nothing happens.
The safety chimes related to the soft top stopped working too.

I had to raise the roof manually because it was raining.
Luckily I had the supplement to the owners manual that illustrated how to do it.

What normally causes faults with these w124 Convertible roof systems ?

I'm thinking myself that in my case, it is the controller / wiring / relay
as previously:

1. the roof function was fine
2. then she didn't like to close immediately.
3. then she would only close the roof if the car ignition
was left off for 40 minutes ( to leave SOMETHING to cool off I presume)
4. and now it opened great fully automatic no problem
and refused to close so I've had to manually close it now...

It's a pity the convertible control system is not the exact system as the SL
as there seems to be a wealth of information about these on here.

 

I am now moving this Thread to the W124 Forum.

 

There is no documentation for e320 softtop in the EPC Online

 

STAR Service Manual Library DVD

No, EPC is used to find parts and p/n's.

If you are a DIY'er may I suggest that you contact MB North America and purchase a STAR Service Manual Library CD, for your Model car. Please see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/2379407-post1.html for contact information.

 

Don't PM me. Let's keep the information public on this forum so future posters can search for answers. I'll help answer any questions lynns cannot answer in this thread.

Pretty much all I know is in the links lynns provided.

 

Yes, I agree to keeping this information open to everyone. Primarily because there is not enough information written about the E320 soft top system and anything that can be added will help the next guy.

FYI, you may want to ask a fellow by the name of ' bobterry99 ' for his thoughts as well as starting at the bottom of the following post at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1324795-r129-soft-top-controller-roll-bar.html . I tried to arrange the threads according to MB years.

FWIW, I think your problem will be an easy fix. I just don't have time to help right now.

 

So, I found block x11/4 in the footwell, connected up my LED
via the "any other colour" pin to socket 2 to read off the codes from the soft top controller,
and all I got was a steady light, no pulsing or flashing.

Ignition key in Position 1 on or fully on either with engine running or not running:
It was the same steady light with no discernible pulsing
or flashing or pulsing on and off.

With the key off the LED does not light up.
Am I doing something wrong ?

I was using this design of unit as a template for my design.
The picture is not mine, I did not draw it.

Link for image: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=37619&d=1162392878

 

I recognize that sketch as something I provided. It works for me and nobody has complained about it so I can assume it's good.

You described the hookup properly, so I don't know why you get a steady light on. It should be off. Were the (+) and (-) connections made at the battery? Did you try pressing the momentary switch down for 2-4 secs?

 

You described the hookup properly, so I don't know why you get a steady light on. It should be off. Were the (+) and (-) connections made at the battery? Did you try pressing the momentary switch down for 2-4 secs?

Thank you for making that drawing Kestas.
It instantly demystified the code reader construction for me.:bowdown:

However I have one question.
Is the momentary switch pressed to connect
(as I had assumed)
Or is it pressed to disconnect the circuit
(an option I just considered after the unit did not work for me).
No Radio shack in Ireland BTW.
Sorry for what may seem a dumb question.

OK: Quick update, the roof mechanism only works
when the ignition has been off for a considerable length of time
and you must quickly raise the roof after ignition on or else
it will ( I assume heat up so quickly) and not close the roof.

Typical times needed (for the controller I assume)
to cool down to allow a brief raising of the roof
after driving any distance is now 2 hours.
Note The lowering of the roof mech' always works normally
which I find curious.

I'm wondering if a possible controller overheat issue would cause a code reading error ?

Note: Hydraulic level in the boot reservoir is running between the min and max marks.

PS I'm unable to order a EPC or MIS over here in the wilds of Ireland and am unable to browse the system for potential troublesome relays other than the controller.
Does anyone have a link to the troubleshooting and testing
of the soft top system for a W124 / A124, please ?

FWIW, I think your problem will be an easy fix. I just don't have time to help right now.

On this note I think I will replace the eloectrical fuses in the car as some are still first day items.

Thank you for the help and hints for far gents !!

 

You're correct in assuming that it momentarily makes contact to close the circuit (unclear in the sketch).

It's wierd that you have intermittent operation. When it faults, does the switch start blinking? If so, you should have readable codes stored in the system. You checked the fluid level and it's okay. The only thought I have is that the controller may have relays that are fried. I've never opened mine to see if it has relays. This controller is located under the rear seat panel toward the driver's side.

Are you operating the top with the engine on and running? The top mechanism sometimes doesn't like to operate from battery power only.

One other thought - the top will not work if the rollbar isn't all the way down. This mystified me once when I had the fuse blow to the rollbar when it was within a half inch of full retraction. I thought it was all the way down.

Are you looking for the code book that can interpret the fault codes? it's in the following link:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1039/mercedes/cs1000_mb.pdf

There's a lot of pages to look through, but it's there.

And finally, this link below has LOTS of detailed information on repairing your car, including the soft top.

http://mb.auto.pl/component/option,com_wrapper/Itemid,62/

 

You're correct in assuming that it
momentarily makes contact to close the circuit
(unclear in the sketch).It's wierd that you have
intermittent operation.
When it faults, does the switch start blinking?

After the systems faults:
1. Sometimes but not always, the rollbar warning lights come on steady. (Lamp E30)
2. The flashing lights in the rollbar deploy switch come on steady.
3, the main switch on the centre console justs stays steady red,
like normal when you are operating the roof.

If so, you should have readable codes stored in the system.
You checked the fluid level and it's okay. The only thought I have is
that the controller may have relays that are fried.
I've never opened mine to see if it has relays.
This controller is located under the rear seat panel
toward the driver's side.

I cant find mine, is it near the battery ? (or is that the ECU)
My battery is on the LH side of the vehicle because she is RHD.
Edit: I see the location you specified IS correct, my apologies.

Are you operating the top with the engine on and running?
The top mechanism sometimes doesn't like to operate from battery power only.

Only with the engine running and also battery is new and correctly sized for vehicle.

One other thought - the top will not work if the rollbar isn't all the way down.
This mystified me once when I had the fuse blow to the rollbar
when it was within a half inch of full retraction.
I thought it was all the way down.

Mine are stowed down the whole way as far as I can see.

Are you looking for the code book that can interpret the fault codes? it's in the following link:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1039/mercedes/cs1000_mb.pdf
There's a lot of pages to look through, but it's there.
And finally, this link below has LOTS of detailed information on repairing your car, including the soft top.
MB.AUTO.PL - Dok. serwisowa CD1

Thank you Kestas !!

I don't think you have an over heating issue of your CST(cabriolet soft top) controller.
I think you have a problem with your battery. How old is it?

I only raise or lower the roof with the engine running.
Battery is 6 months old btw

Look on page 66 of the above CS1000 diagnostic manual PDF for your DTC's.

Got that. Thank you very much !!

BTW, I think it's a good idea to clean your #4 and #9 fuse contacts in the trunk
and replace ONLY those fuses until you have fixed your current problem.
Remember there are fuses in the trunk as well as the engine compartment.

OK I will have a look for those, but the glaring
differences between the SL and my E320 Convertible
don't make it easy as the wealth of convertible info is for the SL...

I will have to get stuck into and study the documentation for the car now.

Thanks again gents !

 

Looking at the wiring diagram " http://mb.auto.pl/wis/w124/CD01/ETM/2477200.pdf "
the power top should be normally tested thru' connector labelled X11/12,
which in my case is a black test connector situated in the passengers (LH) footwell.
and not the X11/4 that I thought earlier, as the X11/4 seems to only be
for a digital readout according to the info on the wiring diagram.

However I've decided to get her scanned by an independent MB guy up the country
(as the local MB dealer in Limerick - Ireland, has a poor reputation
for troubleshooting and is well noted for being very pricey)
in both the pulse and data connections as
it seems beyond my current capabilities.

So I must get codes if there is any, and try to move the problem forward.
Thanks again gents.

PS Where is fuse location F24/1 ?

 

Ok got the codes from the friendly and efficient people at
TruckCar, an authorized Mercedes service centre near Limerick.

Stored faults were:
002 Voltage supply Undervoltage.
009 Soft Top limit down switch S84/7
014 Soft Top limit switch closed S84/4

which I put down to manually closing the roof a few times...

However upon reset and continued faulty operation of roof,
up came the biggie:

024 Control Unit N52.

I'm gonna have a look in the IPC / EPC for the part number now for the N52 relay.

 

First, try to open the control unit. There may be corrosion at the terminals or a fried relay inside, which would cost under $10 to fix, if you're so inclined.

 

Yea, I'll have a look inside once I have her out. It's gotta be worth a quick look.

Electronics repair or manufacturing people:
If you had to bet on a component failing in this picture
intermittantly failing from heat or thermal stress, which one would you pick ?
I'm picking the diode btw, I think it's labelled "3" !!

 

FWIW, I read this today.

"Only 6,400 of the E320 Cabriolet models were imported to the U.S. over a three-year, limited-production run."

No wonder that there is such a limited amount of information on the Mercedes Forums pertaining to the CST hydraulic cylinders and control module.

 

For reference, the CST control module on my car is PN 124 820 45 26, located under the rear seat cushion, passenger side.

Terminator, I see what appears to be 16 relays in that control module. My experience with modern vehicles tells me that the relays used in automotive application are often problematic. The problems stem from burned, pitted, or tarnished contacts. Fortunately, I have at my disposal a pair of stereobinoculars where I can inspect the electrical components, including solder cracking, up to 40X magnification.

My expectations are that your problem lies with the relays and not the electronic components. Give them a good inspection.

 

For reference, the CST control module on my car is PN 124 820 45 26, located under the rear seat cushion, passenger side.

For reference a NEW CST and roll bar control module from a 1995 E320 is p/n 1248204526 and is $1787.38 discounted with shipping at Parts.com The MSRP is $2250.00 delivered ONLY in the states and that is why I suggested a BBA- reman that can be done in England or the USA in 1-2 days for about $375.00

 

No further progress with her, mainly due to bad weather.

I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the rear seat lower cushion as I pulled then pushed the little red levers, then I tried to move them left and right, I didn't bend anything but neither was I able to get the seat cushion up.

It's the little things cause the biggest problems...

 

Try pushing the red tabs inward and give the forward edge of the seat cushion a good shot upwards at the same time. That should release the seat bottom.

Good Luck,

Jayare

 

You need to push downwards on the tab, it will go down (obviously) and swing slightly toward the rear of the car.

Regards, Inspector.

 

I've added this thread to the DIY sticky

 

OK lads thanks for the help.

I won't be doing much more with my Merc' for the next while though.
I'm off to the good ould US of A to see the launch of STS-125 from
The Kennedy Space center next week.

First time on American soil too.

I'll edit this post when I get back with a technical update on the Merc' (fingers crossed). Thank you.

EDIT: Rather annoyingly she is working fine now.
But I'm still gonna' pull the controller for a looksie soon.

 

Ok, sorry for the delay as I've not been on the site in a while.

For me, I took out the controller, dried out a tiny bit of moisture,
and cleaned off a bit of corrosion off the circuit board.

I then heated it up to 70 degrees Celsius in the wife's oven
for 30 minutes, then once cooled sprayed it with lacquer
and re-installed it.

It's been fine since, but the circuit board will need extensive repairs
if the corrosion continues... Hopefully I've arrested its progress.

OK. 'Till next times gentlemen, and again thank you for your assistance.