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ABC valve cleaning DIY

120K views 87 replies 39 participants last post by  Rpach10115  
#1 ·
Car: 2003 Mercedes SL500

Symptoms: car’s front drops 3-4” within 1 hour after engine is off, after engine start car height goes to normal. Red ABC 'low height' warning message is displayed every time I start the car but goes away in 30 sec or so.

Since there where no external leaks on shocks/lines it must be internal leak in ABC valve block. Nice description of ABC suspension is here ABC Suspension
So after reading many posts I thought I should try cleaning valves before replacing them (cheapest unit I can find was $1200 from ESC tuning
2003 Mercedes Benz SL500 Base V8 5.0L > Suspension > OEM > ES#1780752 Control Valve For Active Body Control - 2203201258

here is place where they rebuild them
00-06 Mercedes Benz Suspension Valve Block A2203200358

It took 3 hours of pretty dirty and unpleasant work but results are impressive – car stopped dropping and ride became much more stiff and sporty.


Because I cannot find anywhere in internet info on how exactly to clean ABC valve blocks I thought I would write brief DIY sequence here:
1. Block access: raise front axe and remove front left wheel and wheel liner
A lot of pictures can be found here
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/1455132-w215-abc-pump-valve-block-hpe.html
2. Bleed residual pressure with both front wheels off the ground using small bleeding screws on the front shock lines
3. Now you are ready to remove valve block and take it home for cleaning. There are many ways how you can do it but here is what I did:

a. Disconnect Line 1 and Line 2 from aluminum Block 1 Pic 1. To avoid contamination in hydraulic system I put saran wrap/electrical tape at the end of each line. Oh and use gloves!
b. Remove 10 mm Bolt 1 which holds Block 1 on bracket and electrical connector to the sensor, slide Block 1 to the side
c. Remove Lines 3-5
d. There are 3 10 mm nuts which hold Valve block – now you can access them and remove Valve Block
e. Carefully mark and remove 4 electric connectors - they are fragile!
f. Put plastic tray under car - lines are not leaking badly but I got 0.5 l of oil over 2 hours..​

4. Now with Valve Block off the car you can take pressure damper and holding brackets off (big black bulb and black metal plates, all 10 mm)
5. Carefully clean block outside with ethanol and remove Plastic Clip which holds valves together, plastic clip between regulating valves is shown on Pic.2 (From here I will write for Check Valves only, Regulating Valves are similar). Plastic clips are fragile! Use two pair of pliers to press them on both sides and slide them out
6. Use adjustable pliers to carefully turn valve (garb at the VALVE BASE) to 45 degree angle: after some wiggling it should come out.
7. There is a spring for each check valve – do not miss them! Picture of all valves taken apart is here
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1586359-abc-valve-a2203201258-a2203200358.html
8. Clean valve with soft tissue/ethanol, Pic.3, remove plunger and clean its internal o-ring (mine blue 0-ring was very dirty). Check valve seat for scratches. There are 3 areas which can cause leak: dirty valve seat, leaking o-ring or weak returning spring. To be safe I stretched spring for a bit ..
9. For regulating valves plunger is not removable so I just pushed it back and forth with pliers while spraying with ethanol.
10. Put everything back together (except front wheel liner), check fluid level in ABC tank, add Pentosin 11s if necessary. Start engine with wheels on the ground and stop after 1-2min for 5-10 min, add more Pentosin. Now you are ready to bleed the system – slowly cycle through height modes 15 times, it should be enough. Go check for leaks around valve block. If there are no leaks put liner back.
11. Open your beer and celebrate – you just fixed your Mercedes and saved yourself $2000!

PS To be hones you don’t have to remove valve block to clean valves, but it is just much easier to do so for the first time
 

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#3 ·
Thanks for this Excellent Thread!
Question; If the o-rings need replacement (I would think at this point of disassembly one would replace o-rings as a preventative measure anyway), are the o rings made out of a "special" material or just off the shelf o-rings? If they are special, where would I find them for purchase?

Thanks,Brian
 
#5 ·
AWESOME GUIDE ! Mine is starting to do the same thing, i just wanna rip the whole thing out somdays and use 2x4's to keep the car up, LOL ...
 
#7 ·
Valentin

I have a 2005 sl500. For the past 2 years, I have had to raise my car each morning. My driver side sits on the wheels - front and back. I get the red ABC warning "stop - car too low." I raise and lower it and it is fine for the rest of the day.

I search for puddles/drips and I find nothing. So, I am going to ask a mechanic friend to clean both valve blocks for me. My question is, Do you have to drain the ABC fluid before taking the valve blocks off? I am not familiar with them enough to know if taking them off will cause all the fluid to drain out.

Thank you. I really want to save myself the 4 to 5 thousand I was quoted to replace both valve blocks.
 
#8 ·
No it is not necessary to drain ABC fluid before valve replacement/repair but you will lose some (around 1/2 quarter) when you will disconnect hoses. After you will put everything back it be a good idea to replace fluid anyways. And since your car is 2005 just running rodeo and replacing fluid may fix your problem..
 
#10 ·
This has to be one of the greatest posts on this forum!

I look forward to insight from others that have attempted this. I am sure as many of us attempt this repair that would greatly enrich the solution. I spoke with the owner of the California company that claims to rebuild these valves. I always wondered what exactly they did, but the fella was evasive with his answers (trade secrets I guess). But now I know :).

Thanks Valentin SL500 for sharing! :bowdown::bowdown:

Where exactly can one purchase the Atlas O-rings? Also, would you have any idea about where to purchase the spring if needed?
 
#11 ·
For the valve internal leaking, do a filter change and flush with rodeo action by DAS will solve the problem, this only take about 15-20mins. Most time isn't really o-rings gone, but carbonized fluid ashes block the valve to seat. I did 4 cars since last year, never come back for same reason.

also if only same side drop, not 4; likely strut leak. u have to raise the car see the bottom of struts, if they are wet, u'll need new.
 
#15 ·
Greetings...Does anyone know where I can get the returning springs ? I have weak returning springs on my valve block cause when I parked my sl500 it sink on right front.I performed this same service clean valve blocks and i stretch the springs and my right front suspension doesn't sink no more but it only last about for 5 days or so and problem start again .I have remove valve and stretched springs again and it doesn't sink but again it doesn't last ..only 5 days any suggestion please
 
#17 ·
Just an update on this for anyone who is considering trying it.

I pulled out both valves and replaced the o-rings because they were shot. They were basically square and not round any more, so not sealing well at all.

I didn't bother cleaning the valve seats at all. I was sure the o-rings was the problem.

Stretched the springs a bit and put it all back together.

The front left strut used to leak down after 48 hours or more. Now it does it every night :(

The car is actually worse now!

I have purchased a used block and I'm going to rebuild it on the bench (new o-rings, stretch spring, clean valve seats, etc.) and then swap it with the one on the car.
 
#19 ·
Update

Just an update on my previous post...

Replaced the valve block with one salvaged from a 2005 SL.

24 hours later, it didn't sink even a little bit. Have been driving it since then, so will have to park it for 48-72 hours this weekend and see if it still sinks.

I think the replacement valve block fixed it.

Not sure why my 'partial rebuild' didn't work. I suspect replacing the o-rings alone isn't enough.

I did notice that when I released pressure (using the bleeder valve on the shock) to do this job, the fluid that came out was really quite dark.

Interesting, because I flushed the ABC system (with new filter) a year ago and the new fluid was clear/green. The old stuff was BLACK. I suspect in almost 10 years, nobody had changed the fluid.

That was last year. So I was expecting to see fresh clean fluid this year, but it wasn't.

I'm going to flush it again and add a new filter. I think after almost 10 years, you can't just flush the fluid once and it will be clean forever. Must have been a lot of gunk in the system!
 
#20 ·
I am planning on cleaning my rear valve block and replacing rear accumulator. After getting the 'visit workshop' light constantly and doing the 'bounce test' I realized the accumulators were bad. I have replaced the front without any trouble but need some help for the rear.
Does anyone have a step-by-step on how to get the rear valve block and accumulator out?

Thanks so much. This is an awesome forum!
Brian
 
#21 ·
Hello, I have read and read your posts and here is my issue. I have a sl500 2003.
I pulled my frt valve block and replaced all the o- rings on the valves and cleaned the block and reinstalled ., thinking this was my problem that the car when started- leaned over to the right driver side and sank over night. Also the large accumulator on the drivers side was replaced with a new one, when the valve block was worked on. Started engine up for 1 min. did notice that fluid was a lttle low. topped off with new fluid. Now when starting engine up again and cycling the height level up and down( 16-18 times) the car seems to sagg bad on the drivers side until you turn off the engine, then the car slowly rises to proper level. If at that point I start the engine again and put it in gear the right drivers side strut bottoms out and the ABC red light comes on saying not to drive.

I am thinking that my problem now is either I replace the rear accumulator or the small accumulator behind the drivers rear frt fender ( behind the side fender vent) not near the frt valve blk. If I start the car..... I seem to hear a hissing sound from this area and when button is pushed ( could that be a broken nitrogen ball?).

Also I know I have not completely purged the system oil, Could my issue be related to Air gaps in the lines?

Here is some more information prior to this happening. I would get the abc light now and then and then it would go away. You would start up the car , it would say too low to drive , then if you hit the button to raise the car it would go away and it would be fine to drive, but would come back the next day or two. Same procedure - start it up, have the warning , hit the button , warning go away, go driving for an hr or 2 , park the car over night, and then the next day car would have sagged bad on the drivers side and the wheels would have to be straight or the fender would get smashed.

I don't believe it is my pump at this point ,but I could be wrong
 
#22 ·
I have exactly the same car as you, had exactly the same problem (mine started sagging after 24hours but was fine for any time less than that), and tried rebuilding the valve block.

Search for my post on the site about my lack of success rebuilding the valve block.

Don't think it is air in the lines, because (I believe) the system is self purging so after you have run the car and cycled the suspension, you can't have any air in the lines.

I gave up after rebuilding the valve block and bought a used one pretty reasonably ($300?) from a 2005 or 2006 low mileage car (have pics of the car, so I know it's low mileage.. it was in a rear impact so the valve block was fine)

If your car raises reasonably well, I'm sure it's not the pump.

I'd buy a used valve block (newer, lower miles) and replace yours with that one. I'm 90% sure that will fix your problem.

Don't start messing with other parts until you're absolutely sure the valve block is fixed and working fine. I think yours is still broken... don't assume that rebuilding fixes things.

As a data point, mine actually got slightly WORSE after the rebuild. So it's not a 'cure-all' to rebuild it.
 
#23 ·
WOW, Thanks for the reply, but how can it get worse since I replaced all the o rings step by step , cleaned evertything and put it back together meticulously. There are no leaks and every hose is tight. My valve block has approx , 68k miles on it. would a bad valve cause the severe drop on the drivers side when you engage the car in drive? I just want it fixed and there are alot of varibles as to fix what 1st which is causing my problem.
Pls help. Thanks
 
#24 ·
WOW, Thanks for the reply, but how can it get worse since I replaced all the o rings step by step , cleaned evertything and put it back together meticulously. There are no leaks and every hose is tight. My valve block has approx , 68k miles on it. would a bad valve cause the severe drop on the drivers side when you engage the car in drive? I just want it fixed and there are alot of varibles as to fix what 1st which is causing my problem.
Pls help. Thanks

Yes, I did the same thing too. The room was totally clean, workbench cleaned/wiped before I started to make sure no dust, put it together meticulously, still slightly worse than before I replaced the O-rings.

Yes, the bad valve would cause the problem you're having. Unfortunately there is really no way to know for sure when there is a bad valve, but I have found the following almost always points to a bad valve:

a. One side worse than the other. If it was the pump or any hoses, the entire front or rear of the car would sink (or the entire car). If it is a valve, only one corner is affected at first (until it starts to get really bad... then the other side can sink too)

b. Happens when the car is off. If the pump even had reasonable pressure it is strong enough to raise the car when you push the 'raise button'. If that works fine when you push the button, the pump isn't a problem (it CAN be worn but it's not your primary problem for sure)

I would get another valve block and swap
 
#25 ·
I agree with bhatt. I had the same problem, tried the same fix and made it worse. I finally found a local Indy (Rubens in Dana Point- awesome!) and he replaced the rear valve block. Now all is good. I tried the DIY approach, followed all the posts. I felt like I did it correctly, but it only got worse. I think it had something to do with the valve seat rather than the seals. Taking it apart uncovered the real problem. Now, no more ABC light (finally). All is good.
I would suggest replacing the valve block and get the one with the newer valves...
 
#26 ·
Hello, Bclancy........ when you say taking it apart uncovered the real problem , what was it that you noticed in the valve block? was it the o-rings or the valve seat? or just plain dirt?? Thanks. I dont mine doing the work myself because after what i have done so far on this car I feel that so far I have solved every issue that has come up with it. And then of course I want to save the money on a new block if I do not have to go that route. But then again if I go about pulling it out once more ( for the last time mine you)I want to be sure the old one is worth repairing (with seals,o-rings , spring, etc.) or replace with new one. Has anybody got a very good source for a new valve block other than the mercedes Stealer? Thanks for all the info on this it has helped alot.