Here is the new valve block assembled with the mounting plate and the pressure accumulator.

The valve block has 4 electrical connections and 5 hydraulic connections.. they are as follows:

SP: Pressure Accumulator
S: High Pressure Feed
T: Low Pressure Return
FB1: Front Left Strut
FB2 Front Right Strut

The new valve block installed and all hydraulic and electrical connections are assembled:

When I initially diagnosed the car I noticed that the high pressure expansion hose that connects to the pump was sweating a lot of hydraulic fluid on the surface and would eventually fail, causing the same failure that happened to my S600 months back. With the new pump working correctly I did not want to subject the old hose to the high pressure and it needed to be replaced.

Here's a comparison between the old and the new hoses...

Installation of the hose is a bit tricky.. the motor mount needs to be unbolted from the subframe and the motor needs to be raised a few inches since the hose runs underneath the crank pulley and the subframe...

Here is the new and the old pump. The older pumps were manufactured by LuK but they were since bought and are now manufactured by a company called Ixetic. Exterior case is exactly the same. The suction restrictor valve looks to be updated..

New pump installed and awaiting feed lines to be connected..

 

We also discovered that the IC pump has failed. The pump was replaced with a newer model...

The rear axle made clunking sounds when the car would be engaged in gear.. I discovered that there were 2 bolts missing on the rear axle connecting to the differential. The other 4 bolts were loose or half way out....

Cleaned the rear axle, replaced the washers and the 6 bolts.. torque to correct specs...

 

Of course after the car was assembled there are many more procedures before the car was "ready to drive"...

-Flush/Fill/Bleed Power Steering
-Flush/Fill/Bleed ABC
-Flush/Fill/Bleed Intercoolers
-Engine Oil Change
-New Belt
-Recharge A/C

 

Bravo! Nice work! Thanks for sharing.

 

Okay, Oxygen's photos should all be showing again. I took the liberty of rehosting them so we don't lose them again, and then deleted a couple dozen "Hey I can't see the photos" posts in this thread.

BTW: Normally we don't permit advertising tags in photos (or elsewhere) from non-sponsors but in this case I believe it's a small price to pay for this excellent information.

 

As I understand this thread, its one valveblock in front and one in the back (not one for each damper). Why is it that normally it's one corner that starts to drop, and not entire front or rear?

 

Wow! 'Just stumbled on this thread. What a gorgeous presentation! This provides much insight on how to fix the ABC issues on my SL500. Thanks Oxygen!!! I can breathe freely now ! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

 

Thanx for great thread!
Hope you post more like this!
Around how much did it cost to do all that?
Where could one find/purchase them newer updated parts you used for replacements?

 

W215 suspension valve block

I have recently had to replace the rear valve block on my CL55 AMG. The price of these parts new is very high and I am wondering if there is someone who can recondition the removed valve block.

thanks

 

one question : what would be the right pressure level o the ABC fluid system to read. The test has shown that my CL500 has a pressure (running engine and lower position of the car) of 185 to 187 bar...is it too low ?
regards

 

Pump

Hi
Can anyway send me instructions how to remove old pump and install a new one??
I just manage to get 2 front bolts out and all the houses removed, just dont know where is it holding to the body as I just cant move it.
Reservoir tank out,belt, tensioner...
any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

There is a bolt in the back as well. It's a tough one to get to. Also, there was no need to remove the tank.

 

Can you post the part numbers, where you guys are purchasing, and average prices of the valve block, high pressure expansion hose, tandem pump, and IC pump? I am very glad I stumbled on this thread, I am considering buying a M275 CL600 and now know some details to look closer at before making my purchase.

 

Should be a sticky with part numbers.

 

wealth of knowledge !

 

I have a problem with my car setting too low. I think I need some hydraulic oil, but I'm not sure how much to put in. Is there a mark on the dipstick? I realize this my a silly question for most of you, but there it is. thanks

 

there should be 2 marks on the dipstick. the lower one is when the car is running, and the higher one is when the car is turned off. i believe this is correct, but i am still learning myself. someone chime in if i am wrong.

be careful checking the fluid, dirt is not your friend in this system.

 

I too have a sweating high pressure expansion line. I am thinking about replacing it myself. Everything seems pretty straight forward, including unbolting the motor mount and lifting the engine. My question is how do I prime the pump after I've replaced the hose?

 

Shouldn't need to prime the pump, but you will need to bleed the system.

 

I rebuild these ABC valve blocks if anyone needs them done. PM me for details.
Solenoid current @ 12Vdc= 2.6 Amps
Solenoid static resistance 4.6 Ohms.

Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)

inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16

 

How do we bleed the system peoples?

The more details the better, star required etc etc?

 

I have a question regarding the pumps. The pump on my 05 CL55 has a sticker on top that says Ixetic. According to the mfg dates you mentioned above is it safe to assume my pump has been replaced? Car had 76k miles on it when I bought it.

 

Yes, in 2006, the business of Schaeffler group’s LuK Fahrzeug-Hydraulik and LuK Automobil-Technik was acquired by Motion Equity Partners and was renamed as ixetic.
Link

http://www.zacks.com/stock/news/88236/magna-acquires-ixetic

 

Was just browsing this great informative post again. Since the rubber hydraulic hoses seem to be quite problematic, could they be replaced with custom stainless braided hoses?

 

ABC hydraulic hoses ARE steel braided hoses. They're industry-standard, two wire, 3/8" hoses, manufactured and certified to SAE100 R2 Type AT. SAE100R1AT are one wire hoses, and handle less pressure for a given internal diameter. Two wire means they have two layers of steel braid, with rubber layers inside, in-between, and outside.

Some ABC hoses have additional rubber sheaths to protect the hose against mechanical damage where necessary, I'm thinking of the vibration damper on the pump output.

More importantly IMHO, some of the hoses around the bell housing and exhaust cats have additional protective sleeves to protect them against heat, which seems to be quite effective. The sleeves are typically aluminised fibreglass sleeves. I've fitted similar sleeves to ALL the ABC hoses in my engine compartment, and I'd strongly recommend that everyone does the same.

This is what happens when they're not protected (this is the pump output pipe on my 156k mile S600)



And this is what happens when they're protected (I cleaned the sleeves for this picture, but not the pipes):



Nick

 

Yes they could but Im not sure that is the answer. Braided lines are good for critical expanding pipes like brake lines. What's killing the abc lines are 1) high pressure 2) high heat, and that rubber rots. I agree it might reduce any shock waves though from causing the rubber to expand and contract. But that's what the four accumulators are supposed to do.
All industrial hydraulic systems consider hoses to be a service item. S/S braided would be expensive and more difficult to install due to bend radius and probably would not last any longer.
On some peoples abc there is an plastic hose inside the rubber outer hose.
Maybe someone can locate a paper on the reliability of braided lines.
I like what Nick has done by adding additional heat shields over his pipes.

 

Hi , refurbishing valve blocks is there anyone that sales the o-ring kit

 

What a wonderful post! I was waiting to see what the material/labor costs were but nothing came up. So (now that I am seated) what did this cost?
Thanks,
Anziani