Your battery is probably too weak , a weak battery won't allow the key to turn but will still show power for the lights dash etc


First try the brand new correct battery

Also install a battery disconnect on it so every time you turn off the car there is no battery drain
I like the battery brain t3 on Amazon as it has a key fob remote to connect and disconnect the battery to prevent drain

 

Agree - battery is probably the problem.

The ECUs are pretty finicky and want greater than 11.5 VDC to engage the starter or fire the plugs.

You can check the voltage on the climate control menu - I think it is datapoint 24. If it is below 11.5 - try jumpering the car with the battery connected after a charge.

Ensure the key is NOT in the ignition when connecting jumper wires for the car being started - else the key electronics may get fried. After hookup from the running car battery to the starting car - let it run for 5 minutes. Then try a start.

You can also take the battery to an Autozone or Advanced auto and they will check the battery condition to tell you if a cell is shorted out. That would mean you definitely need a new battery.

If the battery good, and less than 5 years old, then you need to get the source of the quiescent drain. (Often times the TeleAid module which can be bypassed) See attached DIY instructions.

 

Hi Tusabes and Atmsmshr, I greatly appreciate your help!!

I just realized about the wrong battery type last night so will search for a new one today.

I hooked up a fully charged battery (3 mo. old AutoZone DuraLast) today.
I waited ten minutes and then another twenty but while the engine cranks vigorously, it will not catch.
The car has fuel, ran fine before the battery died and the 30 amp fuel pump fuse (#52) is good.

On the bright side, the ignition key turns and there are no more runaway wipers, etc.
Thanks to your help I realize those issues were due to low voltage the last time I tried.
TI believe the warning notices on the MFD (TeleAid, ESP, ASB and a red one, I forget which) can be addressed once I get the engine running.

Do you have any ideas on why the engine won't catch?

 

Do you have any ideas on why the engine won't catch?

One possibility - Low battery voltage will allow the starter to crank - but the ECU will not provide the spark. I've been there before - and a jump got me over the voltage dip on a partially charged battery

 

The crank position sensor is most common reason it will crank but not fire

 

What will you guys do with your car battery when you are not drive for couple of weeks or more ?
A- Disconnect battery ?
B- Trickle charge ?
C- Let it be ?
D - Sell the car due to so picky vehicle ?

 

A or b
Or get a battery brain t3 from Amazon
It's a battery disconnect operated by a key fob remote so you just click button to disconnect battery drain

 

Try This

Had the same problem after battery replacement on my 2003 S430, changed the blown fuse f52, no luck, changed relay T (under the back seat), problem fixed. Now gear shift is stuck, suspect the break switch, as the break lights don't work either, will replace it soon.
Good Luck

 

Had the same problem after battery replacement on my 2003 S430, changed the blown fuse f52, no luck, changed relay T (under the back seat), problem fixed. Now gear shift is stuck, suspect the break switch, as the break lights don't work either, will replace it soon.
Good Luck

Hahaha..our W220 are very nasty animal ..:devil:devil:devil

My other W203 and R129 when batt gone ( Forgot to start warm up every weekend) just simply charge without disconnect one of it terminal and start without any problem what soever .

 

Tried new AGM battery (Bosch, from local Pep Boys Auto) tonight, still no joy.
Did same as before, cranks engine vigorously but engine doesn't fire up.
Will try changing out fuel pump relay "T" tomorrow (if in stock at dealer),
If that doesn't work my baby gets towed to the dealer for C.P.R.!!!
Thanks again for your help, experience and support, it relieves some of the frustration.

 

You don't need cpr you likely need a cps


Check out this video on YouTube:

youtu.be/mhb5eibOgQs

 

1- take it out by hard pulling.
2-There are some numbers by each plug: 85, 86, 87, 30. Make sure you identify them clearly.
3- connect 12V power to plugs 85 and 86 regardless of polarity.
4- listen closely. If you heard a clicking noise once connected to power, the relay is OK, otherwise, replace it.
5- Some say once you replaced the relay (or even fuse) you better disconnect the battery and reconnect to let the car to reset everything. Mine worked right away.

Now, if you did all that with no luck, I suspect either a connection to the fuel pomp or the fuel pomp is gone.

PS. All above assuming that you have fuel in your tank!!
PS2. If needed, I can send you some pictures too.
PS3. Another shortcut is to switch the bad relay with another, not so essential relay in the same fuse box like Q (if you have rear window blind) or U before buying a new one to make sure. Just make sure you use an identical relay.
Cheers

 

Sorry for incomplete reply above

I am no mechanic, but have solved some of my MB problems using common sense. Here is how you test you relay. Please note, relay is not a complicated part and for replacing you do not have to go to the dealer. any part store can search the part number on the relay and give you a proper replacement.

1- take the T relay out by hard pulling. (reser to the fuse diagram).
2-There are some numbers by each plug: 85, 86, 87, 30. Make sure you identify them clearly.
3- connect 12V power to plugs 85 and 86 regardless of polarity.
4- listen closely. If you heard a clicking noise once connected to power, the relay is OK, otherwise, replace it.
5- Some say once you replaced the relay (or even fuse) you better disconnect the battery and reconnect to let the car to reset everything. Mine worked right away.

Now, if you did all that with no luck, I suspect either a connection to the fuel pomp or the fuel pomp is gone.

PS. All above assuming that you have fuel in your tank!!
PS2. If needed, I can send you some pictures too.
PS3. Another shortcut is to switch the bad relay with another, not so essential relay in the same fuse box like Q (if you have rear window blind) or U before buying a new one to make sure. Just make sure you use an identical relay.
Cheers

 

I installed a new relay ($18.00 from dealer) but engine still doesn't catch.
Without a computer to read the DTC's I've decided not to gamble another day or two and $150 on the CPS - Crankshaft Position Sensor.
That money goes towards buying a computer for future use.
Right now I'll bite the bullet and try to get my baby hauled to the dealer.

Thanks to all of you for your support and input, it was truly helpful.
I'll post what the dealer's resolution was for future reference.
My luck, it'll be the CPS after all!

Thanks again, Happy and Healthy Holidays to you all!!! :surrender: :wave:

 

The crank position sensor is in stock at my local Advance Auto Parts for $55, with a lifetime warranty. It takes less than ten minutes to change, standing beside the car. Only tool required is a 1/4" ratchet, extension and socket.

 

They are also available on eBay and Amazon for about $15

 

Under the front passenger carpet is a fuse block that mercedes only sell as a whole unit but the fuses are replaceable check and make sure there is power to all connections with key on we had a s500 that we thought had a bad ignition switch and it turned out to be a blown circuit in that block I think the part number was 2205460341 check it out worked for us:smile

 

I think one of my earlier posts isn't showing on the thread. Maybe I didn't post it properly?
Since my last post, I bought a new fuel pump relay but the engine still didn't start so I gave up and called AAA.

BTW - I'm finding my AAA membership is worth every penny.
I've had excellent response every time over the years, from getting hauled out of a ditch in Vermont to getting battery boosts and now towed in Brooklyn. AAA got me a flatbed "tow" to the nearest authorized dealer.

Along the way I found out 2006 is the last year of S class with a mechanical gear selector.
Meaning I was able to put it into neutral and push it out of the parking space so the flatbed could grab it.

The dealer tells me that the starting problem and the quiescent draw issue are both caused by water leakage.
Apparently both the right and left cowlings (in front of the windshield?) and the A/C condensate drain are leaking.
Water has traveled under the carpeting and damaged electrical components which is causing the quiescent draw.

I need my car for the holidays so I'm now getting new AC/heater blower motor and regulator,
cabin filter, front PRE-FUSE box, rear fuse box and rear SAM control unit.
All for the bargain basement price of $4,600!

The Blue Book value of my 2006 S500 4Matic in good condition is $9,600 to $10,000.
Time for me to vent a little!!

First I need to check AllData DIY and see if the R and L cowlings drain into the cabin.
My memory says no, they drain directly to ground between the firewalls.
If so, that leaves the A/C condensate drain as the culprit for these problems.

Me-Be has a history of A/C condensate drains leaking into the passenger compartment.
I know of a 2002 S500 that had this problem about 8 years ago and it was repaired by the dealer.
Only after the owner insisted did the dealer concede this was a recall repair and waive the charge.
I hope I can document a manufacturer's recall for this leak.

Meanwhile, I hope to be driving a "substantially rebuilt" and reliable S class to Vermont for the holidays.
If I get stuck by the side of the road and see Santa's sleigh, I'll be sure to let you know!
Thanks again, and happy holidays!!!

 

the more likely leak is not from the ac evaporator or front cowl, but from the right air intake to the heating/ventilation system.
It has a reed valve at the bottom to drain, but blocks up from small tree seeds etc. that make it thru thru the screen in front of the wipers; result is the intake box overflows, and then into the fight front floor, and so on.

There are oodles of threads on this.

 

Yes what the dealer meant was the plastic reservoir under the passenger side windshield filling up with water causing it to enter the cabin

Very common problem , was not a recall but was part of a class action lawsuit against Mercedes . Unfortunately the period to obtain repairs or reimbursement under the class action had expired a few years ago

http://classactionlawsuitsinthenews...des-benz-s-class-w220-and-mercedes-benz-cl-class-w215-reed-valve-water-leakage/

 

I was so happy to have a drivable car I've been living with a "few" remaining problems.
There's no radio/CD changer, no Navi System, the MFD shows ABS and ESP are not working before it settles down on "Start Position- Do Not Drive".
The dealer says it's another $7k+ to replace the relevant controllers (motherboards?).

Now, I've driven without ASB and ESP for most of my life but it'd be nice to have them back.
I'm getting tired of using my iPhone as a radio and Nav System.

I looked on eBay for used ESP modules and see they have a spectrum of MeBe and Bosch parts numbers.
I'm guessing that ESP modules were modified over the production cycle of the car so I'm not sure which I should get.

After reading up on AllData DIY and Benz World threads I have some questions.
Is it true that I need to disconnect one battery cable and apply quiescent voltage to the car before changing out an ESP module?
Are ESP modules VIN specific so that I would need to reprogram the "new" module after installation?
What do I need to look for in a SDS computer so I can read and clear error codes as needed?
I'm no whiz with electronics but they're a fact of life so I better start learning!

Thanks!

PS Given all these problems popped up simultaneously after other electronic components were replaced, is there any chance there is a single underlying problem that could knock out all of these systems? I see no blown fuses.

 

Have you reset the steering angle sensor

 

6 year old thread now closed !