Do you have Bose?

 

There is no such thing. If you have a separate amplifier, the speakers are powered by the amplifier. If you have a system which the stock radio powers the speakers, the radio powers two sets of front speakers. Each side has a speaker in the mirror triangle, and in the door. They are connected in parallel.

 

If he has Bose this isn't true. The Bose amp module has high pass crossovers to the door speakers and low pass crossovers to the rear deck speakers.

If you do have Bose and wired the speaker level outputs to the Bose amp, the best performance you'll get is if you turn off any crossovers that may be turned on at your JVC headunit so that you're not stacking crossovers (assuming there's nothing wrong with your JVC headunit. I bought one JVC in my life and the output section was terrible). Your JVC speakers are also likely 4 ohm speakers, so you'll get roughly half the output power from the Bose amp. You'd probably be better off wiring your headunit front speaker outputs directly to your front speakers.

 

If he has Bose this isn't true. The Bose amp module has high pass crossovers to the door speakers and low pass crossovers to the rear deck speakers.

If you do have Bose and wired the speaker level outputs to the Bose amp, the best performance you'll get is if you turn off any crossovers that may be turned on at your JVC headunit. Your JVC speakers are also likely 4 ohm speakers, so you'll get roughly half the output power from the Bose amp. You'd probably be better off wiring your headunit front speaker outputs directly to your front speakers.

I thought he is asking if there are separate crossovers inline with the wiring, not embedded ones in the amplifiers.

 

If Bose, the answer is the crossovers are in the separate amplifier. If not...I'll take your word for it. I have no idea what the actual setup is on non-Bose W210's.

 

Here is the speaker information Both Bose and Standard (I believe it is Harman Kardon).

The Bose speaker system has two speakers in each door which are connected in parallel. I do not see any cross-over network anywhere in the schematic in either case.

 

Well, if you're referring to the attachment as a schematic, it's just a spec sheet for the speakers. The Bose system has crossovers in the Bose amp.

 

Here is the schematic. Have a look at H4/1 and H4/2 which are front door speakers.

 

Had a feeling you would post this. I already have this file. This not a schematic of the Bose amp. It's a schematic of the speaker wiring.

You don't know, yet you doubt and are really probably just trying to save face because you made a statement that assumed too much and that is completely wrong if the OP has a Bose amp. Neither are my concern, except that you question info that could help the OP.

This is a relatively simple thread that has already gone a bit off the rails so I'm not going to keep going back and forth with you on something that people who actually know about the Bose system don't question at all at this point 20+ years after the amp was implemented and already figured out long ago. I'm also not going to expend energy trying to convince you. The info is out there. You just don't know yet.

 

Let's see what the OP says, and how he wired the system up, shall we?.

 

Ok, but that wouldn't have anything to do with the OP's question about crossovers in the system. Let's leave our egos out of a thread about W210 front door speakers (ffs).

 

Ooh guys. Didn't mean to bring up any old niggles. I was ar fault, I should have said its the none Bose system. And yes, I meant some sought of xover or filter in the line or wires itself. Maybe a 10uf cap or something like that. Just a schlep having to run new wiring for the front speakers. But if that is what it takes, then I'll have to do that.

 

As for how I wired it, it was wired using the original speaker wires. I just got up now, gimme a bit and I will run separate wires for the new speakers already fitted and see if there is any difference in the way they sound.

 

Ooh guys. Didn't mean to bring up any old niggles. I was ar fault, I should have said its the none Bose system. And yes, I meant some sought of xover or filter in the line or wires itself. Maybe a 10uf cap or something like that. Just a schlep having to run new wiring for the front speakers. But if that is what it takes, then I'll have to do that.

Yeah, much ado about nothing . I understood what you were asking. All I was trying to say, was the WIRING from the sound system to the speakers have no filters. Now you indicated that it does not have the Bose amp, I will post the schematic for the other version for the USA. If you notice, you have two speakers front side. I assume you replaced the door one with JVC speaker. What kind of speaker is it? Just the mid-range ? Or mid-range pls a tweeter? Have you connected + to + and - to - at each side?

 

I mentioned running new wires directly from your headunit could be beneficial in the context of otherwise running 4 ohm speakers from the bose amp. The non-bose system appears to utilize 4 ohm front door speakers, so I don't think you would notice any difference at all by running new speaker wire. Whether there is an inline crossover or not, if you had more bass before changing your headunit/front speakers, and less after your JVC radio/speakers, the reason is likely to be your JVC speakers and/or headunit, not the factory wiring.

In every factory system I've personally seen, if a cap is utilized it is placed either on or inline very close to a tweeter to act as protection against spikes vs actually acting as a 1st order crossover. Never seen a cap used as a high pass filter for a midwoofer/midrange.

Further, a lot of factory speakers are designed to be efficient at low power. Your JVC speakers could just be comparatively inefficient, or not capable of reaching the lower registers as well. You could also have phase/timing issues as sometimes OE manufacturers program some adjustment into their headunit programming to account for this, but your JVC headunit would not. If it happens to have time alignment capabilities you would still have to dial it in on your own. It's a potential can of worms, but you have to go through the steps of checking everything. This is all assuming everything was wired correctly in the first place. First step I would take is to try your stock headunit (hopefully you used a wiring harness) with the new speakers and see if things improve vs the JVC headunit. If not, I'd suspect the speakers.

 

Mid plus tweeter. Yes polarity is correct on both sides

 

Do you know the model number for the speakers?
Specs?
Note that as shown in the diagram, there is a speaker (tweeter, high range) in the mirror triangle, in parallel with the door speaker. Is this the case for your model in SA? It has an impedance of 8 Ohms which would be in parallel with your JVC speaker if you use the factory wiring.

Run your own wires, or remove the speaker in the triangle connection, and see if it makes any difference.