Hi ya, when you put the key in the ignition does it stay in there or does it want to fall out, im pressuming that you have the funny looking plastic key ??

Cheers Martin

P.S is it an auto ?

 

glow light and ignition.

Hi, I have a similar problem with my 111cdi manual gears not starting. Sometimes when i insert my key and turn ignition all the lights come on but the engine won't turn over. I just remove the key and wait a few seconds before trying again! I don't know why if anyone has any ideas?
Also, I've noticed lately that the glow plug light on the dash comes on after the engine starts and will stay on for about a minute before it goes out as i'm driving along! Anyone any ideas???

 

Hi ya,the glow plug light is telling you there is a fault on the glow circuit, i would check the wiring to the relay and to the plugs.
The light comes on after the engine starts and stays on permanently when there is a plug gone so i dont think it is a faulty plug.
On the starting issue it could be a problem with the key or the immobiliser, try using a different key to start it and see if the same problem occurs and it might be worth seeing if it is logging a fault code

Cheers Martin

 

Hi Martin
Thanks for the reply. yeah funny looking plastic key, stays in when you put it in. 2.1l turbo diesel, 5 speed Auto transmission.

 

hi hynchcus when you put the key in the ingnition can you hear a sound ie the steering lock unlock
can you turn the key
does it crank over

 

hi when you first put the key in it makes a noise, 1st position all the dash lights etc come on. next position to start it, nothing. key turns alright, motor does not crank.

 

Hi all. I also have exactly the same happening. Yesterday my alarm was sounding intermitantly through the night so I went to get my battery tested and the guy said his meter would not test. just said noise on voltage. When I tried to start the van had lights but engine would not crank over.

Any help or Ideas would be welcomed.

Thanks in advance
Mark

 

hi Mark
Mercedes dealers thought my problem was with the computer. they did a reset. this did not fix my starting problem. turns out it was a sticky solenoid that was causing the fuses to blow, hence no click when you tried to start. so much for automotive club and specialist mechanics. to start mine you could bridge the solenoid terminals and it would start no problems. it would then continue to start alright but if you left it sit for a few days it would blow the fuse and not start, obviously seizing from being left . when the fuse blows you hear a click and then no clicks when you try to start after that. my solution was to get a service done on the solenoid and starter motor. your problem might be from the battery being run down. apparently vitos are subject to starting problems if the batteries can't supply full voltage. a jump start test would verify this.

 

I have the same issue with my '05 Vito 111CDi.

Key in, all lights come one and as you turn to ignition - nothing. The steering lock coming off is the only sound.

The problem started about a year ago, I called my mechanic and whilst I waited for him to turn up, took the ignition module out and fiddled with the wires. As my mechanic turned up, it started It was ok for a long while after this until recently.

So, about a month ago it started happening again. I would turn the key and nothing. Turn it off and try again and after a few attempts it would start. I also realised that if I held the key turned fully clockwise (as in trying to turn the engine over) whilst nothing was happening, holding it for a few seconds with no response then suddenly the engine would turn over. It was like this intermittently for a few weeks.

Then, last night (70 miles from home) it starts again but no luck with repeated tries. I was at APH airport parking so I had access to a jump pack. I know I have a dodgy battery and if left for a whole weekend it will probably need a jump. I tried to start it hooked up to a jump pack but nothing. I also took the starter motor and solenoid wires off and made sure there was decent contact. Anyway, I joined the AA (£152 - ouch) and the mechanic said he could try one thing, check the starter solenoid fuse. It was this. Changed the fuse (30amp and it seems it was initially a 15amp from what I have read on other posts and needs increasing as the starter solenoid and motor begin to age and need more current to turn over!!!). Fuse changed, but still needed a jump to start up.

So, to this morning. I go out to start it and nothing. So I think it's blown the fuse again but no, fuse is fine. I leave it for about half an hour then go try again. I turned the key a few times and nothing. On about the 4th attempt I held the key to ignition point and waited a few seconds and it fired and started (no flat battery). Turned it off and tried again, back to not firing intermittently.

I have now bought a new battery as I know mine isn't great but any other ideas anyone has would be very much appreciated. I was going to try the starter solenoid and motor next but have read another post saying someone else tried this and no fix.

So;
Ignition module? - Could it be this playing up - pretty costly to change
Starter Solenoid and motor - If the bushes are warn down or the motor is sticking, maybe not enough power to turn over?
Immobiliser - I have no clue where this is or even how to check it, I'd assume that would be something to do with the ignition module anyway!
Battery -I will know for sure once I've changed mine.
Poor contacts on earth - I'll try cleaning these but they don't look too bad.

 

Hi, This problem sounds similar and was with the EIS(Electronic Ignition Switch), which i have been told can become faulty on 2004 to 2007 639s.
Anyhow, i was screwed when dealing with Autolocksmith in Leicester, They said they needed to test the switch and when i ordered a new part they over charged for the testing as well as the switch, stay well clear of them!
I rang Mercedes parts department in Milton Keynes(Very helpful) and was told a new EIS is 350 sterling. You'll need a green/orange programming key from mercedes which looks like a slimmed down version of your key but i think its just a usb.
Before you connect the new EIS make sure the battery is disconnected, Fit the new Ignition switch and then connect the battery, then insert the programming key which by memory will take a 2 to 15 minutes before the dash will ask you to remove and then insert your existing key or keys to link them all up and it can take upto 30 minutes for each key the connect.
Hope this helps
Paulie

 

Hi Paulie,

Thanks for the reply.

Did the new EIS module solve your problem?

I have changed my battery now and it is better but I still get the odd half second delay when turning the key until the starter motor kicks in. My mechanic thinks this sounds like the starter motor and solenoid is on its way out but whilst that is probably cheaper maybe not necessary!

Also - for anyone else reading these posts. The new battery I was supplied was bigger than the old one?! I gave my motor factor my model/reg etc. so they gave me the right battery from the book so I'm just wondering if perhaps the original battery fitted by MB turned out to be insufficient as the starter motor became older and slightly worn along with higher fuses! Just a thought.

I've gotta get it hooked up to a diagnostic at some point to find out whatthis -400 error is so will post back what I found out as and when.

Dave

 

If the key has had it, it will shut off all ignition lights that usually come on.
could still be the ignition switch, you need to try another key and/or get a decent scan tool so you can check if the ignition switch is recognising the key
if all the usual ignition lights come on and it doesnt kick over I'd be checking things like starter wiring and the front sam module/fuse box

 

--UPDATE--

OK, Now I have changed the battery so I know that wont be causing any issues. Although, I didn't realise that you shouldn't just disconnect the battery when changing it but should connect to another as if jump starting so that the ECU doesn't lose all that it's learnt or something. Now the alarm has started setting itself after 10 min or so of being left unlocked - not major but damn annoying seeing as if the doors are unlocked and you open them - off goes the alarm! Any help on that new issue would be much appreciated.

Anyway, back to the point...

After changing the battery I didn't start the next morning. Same issue with the key. I left it a few minutes, tried again and it started.

So, I went and had the diagnostics test and got these faults.
P2135, 2136, 2133, 2134 glow plugs need changing. Common rail so not that important.
P2201 - No or incorrect CAN message from control unit N73 (EIS mod)
P2243 - No or inc. CAN msg from cont. unit N93 (Central gateway cont. mod)
P1630 - Check system immobiliser (prob caused by batt. disconnect)
P2244 - No or inc. CAN msg from cont. unit A1 (Instrument Cluster)
P2009 - Check component B76 (Fuel Filter)

Today I changed the starter motor - much easier than expected provided the front is jacked up! I have changed the afore mentioned 30 amp fuse down to a 15 (didn't try a 10) and all good. It starts fine so far.

I'll post any more news for anyone reading this with similar issues. Also seeing MB for a recall issue next week so will discuss faults with them and let you know what they say.

Any help with the alarm setting issue would be gratefully received - it's very annoying.

 

vito w639 ignition

hi been having problems with my 05 Vito ignition,problem started 3 months ago when i found my key was taking longer to work ignition, then last week it just locked out with steering lock on so started looking at cost of repair,amazed at the cost from Mercedes, think it was over £700 done some internet searching a company in Birmingham wanted £375 average price to look diagnose & repair unit + vat, i then found a place in wolves call JUST MERCS, was told there to break my steering lock off (YEAH RIGHT) which will allow van to start dont know how,any way now really feed up looking on net again found a company in here is there details EMAIL: sales@autotronics.co.uk TEL: 0116 340 0162 (Mon-Fri 09:00-17:30 - Sat 09:00-12:00)

DELIVERY ADDRESS: Autotronics - 4 High View Close - Vantage Park - Leicester - LE4 9LJ yesterday phoned them was able to take my ignition with 2 keys i had to be repaired which was done straight away the cost was £240 with 12months guarantee, the company do a vast range of repairs , so pleased thought i would share it ,cheers mick.

 

Hi, I have this same problem? did you have any luck getting it fixed?

 

if you need help with it , you could do a lot worse than speaking to Mark at :-

www.replacementmercedeskeys.co.uk






he knows the vito ignition system very very very well and knows his onions .He is based in Birmingham, but travels all over .

Nick

 

Alarm goes off in the rain and sends battery flat. Door's also sometimes lock them se

I have the same fault codes as mongerdn, what's happening for me is the car alarm will go off sometimes when it rains. The car will also lock on it's own sometimes. The alarm will go off all night sometimes and this is what flattens the battery.

So, I went and had the diagnostics test and got these faults.
P2135, 2136, 2133, 2134 glow plugs need changing. Common rail so not that important.
P2201 - No or incorrect CAN message from control unit N73 (EIS mod)
P2243 - No or inc. CAN msg from cont. unit N93 (Central gateway cont. mod)
P1630 - Check system immobiliser (prob caused by batt. disconnect)
P2244 - No or inc. CAN msg from cont. unit A1 (Instrument Cluster)
P2009 - Check component B76 (Fuel Filter)

Any help with the alarm setting issue would be gratefully received - it's very annoying.