I would first have a look at your TCS cable going into the Right Front of the Transmission... It is a known problem of the "Seal" (possibly the thing the service guy was speaking of) leaking Trans fluid, which "Wicks" it's way up the wiring bundle, and causes a "Limp Home" mode.. which sounds like inability to get out of 1st or 2nd gear..

Please post what you find (preferably photo)

Attached is what the "plug" looks like

G

 

G-AMG,

Many thanks buddy. I will take a look at that tomorrow and post back. Think im ok to drive it? Should I replace that plug regardless? I am 4 days away from my tps coming in.

 

"Personally" I would stick with your 97 E320 until you get the situation sorted out... I wouldn't want to try to stay with highway traffic when you are stuck in 1st gear ;^)

If you *HAVE TO* use the truck, I would use it sparingly.. Also, it might be worth trying to "reset" your transmission computer (doors closed, key position 2, hold accelerator completely to the floor for 5+ seconds, release, turn car off but LEAVE KEY IN for AT LEAST 2 minutes, *DON"T TOUCH ANY SWITCHES, DON"T OPEN DOORS, etc...

This will "reset" the ETC.

G

 

Thanks again, Ill try to beat temptation and drive something else into work... The ole E class had a meeting from the front and rear in an 8 car pileup and has long been totalled. I need to update the information.

 

 

G-AMG, I crawled under the car with a flashlight and found these. There is definetely a little bit of fluid scattered around the local parts, but the transmission fluid was changed a couple weeks ago... The wires do look like they could have wicking up about 6 inches though, don't you think?

The sway bar looks like it has seen some dripping from somewhere above also.

Now, assuming it is this seal. Is the problem that I am losing fluid? There are no drips on the driveway? Or is it that it is shorting something out and creating an artificial fault? In either case, what is my solution? I have a hard time believing it is handing my dealer 800 more dollars to do an hours work.

Thanks again for your time this evening,
Max

 

Ok, the code is p2122 fault: The CAN signal from control module N15/3 (ETC[EGS] control unit) is faulty.

This is my quote:
140-270-08-61 Electrics 231.65
140-991-00-55 Lock Pin 2.50
140-271-00-80 Elastomeri 37.80
140-271-00-60 Seal Ring 2.50
001-989-68-03-10 Transmissi 105.00
140-277-00-95 Oil Filter 36.90
203-540-00-53 Pilot Bushing 19.50

Total 473.98 + labor quote = 1100 FREAKING DOLLARS HELP!

 

G-AMG did a nice write up with pictures of a job similar to what you're looking at. See PointedThree - Photo DIY- 722.6 Conductor Plate and Pressure Regulator Spring R/R

 

Wow, that is a great write up, is it my computer only that doesnt show the pictures?

Thanks to both of you

 

You would need to register for a free account on that site.. once logged in, pics show up.

 

Yeah, I figured.. I attempted to register a couple hours ago, but never got the confirmation email. Thanks

 

Also.. The Electronic Transmission Control (ETC (N15/3)) is not in the transmission. Its above the transmission tunnel, under the center console assembly -- basically right under the ash tray on the floor of the truck (in front of the gear shift). The parts you list are basically for an oil change. The labor is for getting to that controller, as the center console has to come out.

Hit up Vlad's site : http://www.fourbyfourclub.com/Manuals/W463249ComponentLocation.pdf the ETC is on page 6 of that doc.

 

W-Max- On my "Quick Scan", I *TOO* got the same code (ETC N15/3), but when you do a more detailed scan (ie. have your indy do a full transmission scan), I SUSPECT you are going to have "Speed Sensor", or other "Conductor Plate" (aka "Electronics Pack") failure codes.

The N15/3 *IS* the "Brain" or "Control Box" which *IS* outside of the transmission...

The conductor plate, which is *INSIDE* the transmission, lying ABOVE the Valve Body. So, YES, the Conductor Plate IS Immersed in Trans Fluid.

My novice opinion is you have a bad conductor plate, rather than an ETC "Brain" failure.

Anyhoooo, here's a write-up if you are interested:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1474216-photo-diy-722-6-conductor-plate.html

The W210 and W463 basically have the "same" tranny box, so the procedure would be the same (minus the need for a Torque Converter drain since I bet your truck is a MY 2000+)

Good luck!

G

 

Ok, I thought I had it, now I am lost... I do not see why I need to access the gear box under the console?
Is the Transmission Conductor Plate not within the transmission. Isnt that why I need to drop the pan and therefore replace all the seals, gaskets, and transmission fluid?

Even if the ETC is named at fault, its a result of a bad line of communication with the Conductor Plate right?

I can do "ok" with instructions, but until today have never heard of a Transmission Conductor Plate, so bear with me!

 

The WIS doc for Remove/install of the ETC is AR27.19-P-1719GA, it references
AR68.20-P-2000GA to get the console out. The job itself is straightforward.. However the one step you'd need a professional for is step 6 -- "If a new ETC control unit is installed then the coding information of the old ETC control unit has to be transferred using STAR DIAGNOSIS to the new ETC."

PM if you need PDFs of the procedure and I can email them to you.

 

I was looking at your part list after I posted that original reply. Your parts list shows the ETC, and some stuff for doing the oil change. I was initially under the impression the electronics piece was IN the transmissions, so I went looking for it, only to find it in the cabin. My apologies -- I should have looked more closely at the parts list before posting that valve body job...

 

Hey, thanks again for the help. I just sent over a PM... Is the ETC the same as the Conductor Plate? If not, I dont think my parts list includes an ETC... Plus my sypmtoms are pretty spot on with the conductor plate issues I have read in other posts.

 

140-270-08-61

I'm all full of wrong answers today... That part number (140-270-08-61) is #20 in this picture. So the P3 instructions w/ pictures would apply.

 

To clarify, your list:

140-270-08-61 - see #20 above
140-991-00-55 - red plastic tab on the end of dipstick
140-271-00-80 - transmission pan gasket
140-271-00-60 - ring on drain plug
001-989-68-03 - transmission fluid
140-277-00-95 - filter
203-540-00-53 - plug adapter from your picture you posted (o-ring fails)

Just by looking at the prices, this has to be a dealer quote, as I replaced my seeping plug adapter a couple months ago -- for 8 bucks, again, thanks to Vlad for the parts.

The pictures/procedure that G-AMG posted on the other site look to be correct in this instance.

 

The parts list looks legit. You may want to consider a different dealer or at least ask them if you can supply parts because they're prices are through the roof on parts, they're actually doubling the list price on the parts... (the info below shows the list price first and about as cheap as you're going to find it discounted). I'm due for a tranny fluid change and i'm changing that part pro-actively. I haven't had the labor quoted but i may just take it to an independant... still haven't decided.

140-277-00-95 trans filter list $18.00 your cost $13.33
140-271-00-80 trans gasket list $17.50 your cost $13.65
007603-010100 trans drain seal list $.90 your cost $.65
203-540-02-53 trans pilot bushing list $8.50 your cost $6.50

The last part here on the list is the item that's probably cuased the problem, that's the plug that goes into the tranny that's notorious for failure. the other three parts i listed are necessary to change the tranny fluid, which if you have more than 50k miles, you're due. In fact you should also ask them to put in the tranny pan magnet if it doesn't already have one. it's cheap and worth it.

tranny fluid should be changed at least every 50k miles. The $105 is probably for the tranny fluid which is costs like gold. The electrics could be due to the fluid that got into the wires, which is ultimately why your car isn't shifting right. The lock pin is probably for the top of the tranny fluid tube.

You might be able to change your tranny fluid and change that bushing part that screws into the tranny and try not changing the electrics and see if it works... around here labor is $150/hour at dealers so that's about 4 hours labor they're quoting?... i don't know what's involved in changing the "electrics". They might be charging you for a couple extra hours of labor but i really don't know, but it's gauranteed they're gouging you on the parts pricing.

 

Hey guys, cant thank you enough. Ill be purchasing all the parts from fourbyfourclubinc and see if the dealer will do it, if not, will summon the indy shop

 

Remember, according to MB all the electronic transmissions can use the newer fluid meant for the 7 speed transmission: A001989450310. It is cheaper and supposedly better.

 

Ok, just went to a local Mb Indy shop... They say this is extremely common and even showed me a box full of the new gaskets. This guy was tellig me that the conductor plate has no reason to be replaced and 1100 was way too much.

He explained the same problem of fluid wicking up and if it is in it's infancy it would be a 300 dollar repair to replace gasket an if it is in the etc already maybe 500 dollars. He has all Mb diagnostic eq and star..

Does anyone see any reason he would be wrong? Why would the conductor need to be replaced anyway if the problem is a gasket leaking and fluid shorting out electronics?

 

Well this depends on how hard it is to replace the wire gasket. How does it get replaced? Just unplug and replace?

 

The plug is trivial to replace. I pulled my truck up on one ramp to tilt the transmission back and away from where the plug is (to minimize fluid loss). Here's a pic of it, it's located on the front left hand side of the transmission. Very, very common source of leaks. I noticed seepage around it while under the truck lubing the driveshafts, no wicking, nor any drips, just dampness.

If you do it yourself, get the service dipstick for measuring fluid, and go through the motions to get the transmission up to temperature to get the fluid level correct. When I changed my plug, there was very little fluid loss, so much so that I used less than a 1/3 of a liter when I topped everything back off.

On an aside, where does one 'acquire' a STAR system for home use? Would LOVE to get rid of that stupid teleaid malfunction warning (instructions graciously posted on the other forum) -- my dealer wont do it (I've asked).

 

It appears so, but it must be immersed in tf if the fluid can leak through it and it is near the bottom on the transmission