Additionally - I presume this ECU will require coding checked yes? (Since it is used and could have came from another chassis etc)

To that end is there any benefit in also moving over the centre motorola chip? I presume not and that the version coding should be straight forward unless the same Engine ECU could have came with only 5.0 running inside it say? Noob questions I know whilst my friend is an expert in Immob Data etc he asked me to verify if anything else from the old ECU is specific to the engine etc that I cannot code myself.

 

What I can say with certainty is that the Eeprom Chip on ME2.8 also contains the Version Codings, so when swapping or cloning ME2.8 the VC's travel with the Chip or Epr File ....................

IDK if ME2.0 is the same, @Deplore is the man to advise that one, he'll also be able to confirm if that is the correct Eeprom chip

Best thing is (as you said) to plug it in first, read and then Photo or Print all VC's now swap the Eeprom and re read, also check the Drive Auth Actual Values, which first time should show it as Immobilised, then with your original Eeprom soldered in it should show as Drive Authorised

I think you'll find it will run OK no matter which Flash File is in it, but you can likely use something reasonably cheap like Kess to read and swap the Flash (mapping) Files if needs be, (I'm not 100% on that as I haven't played with ME2.0's), so check that out before buying a Kess 🤣

I think there will be enough margin anyways in the 4.3 to 5.0 Fuelling Tables for it not to be an issue, the Lambda Sensors will soon relearn the Fuel Tables

On my ME2.8 I am using a 5.4 litre Eurocharged Tune File on my 5.0 litre SLK and yep, that made a good 30+ BHP power increase just on it's own, plus it has Intake and Exhaust Mods too so it is now pushing approx 340 + BHP

 

ME2.0 has no eeprom with immo data unlike newer ECU. Everything is stored in that Motorola 4e28b processor. You swap that, you also swap the immo, coding, everything.

 

Thanks for that buddy, now I know

I suppose that Processor would need unsoldering to read and write ?

No BDM ?

 

Correct. Xprog requires it to be unsoldered. UPA doesn't, you only need to attach few leads to the pins, but it requires you to lift some pins. A dicey situation, since the pin can rip out the PCB trace board.

If BDM exists for ME2.0, I'm not aware of it.... And I've searched for it. Manual read is required. Or complete swap of the processor.

 

Thankfully I don't have any Cars with ME2.0, and nor do my customers
Don't think I'll worry about ME2.0 right now 🤣

 

Yes. Hot air off, hot air on, then finish with iron and flux.

Yes only that Motorola MCU.

 

To close this one out - this worked!!

Physically moving the Motorola chip over to the used ECU was successful in carrying over the original:

• VIN
• Coding
• Start Authorization

All good now just need to get the engine back together and back in.

 

Hey there,

Sorry to reply so late to this. I'm doing similar work on a W208. To clarify the chip you moved, was not the smaller one your locksmith identified, but the larger Motorola chip?

Thank you,

-Steve

To close this one out - this worked!!

Physically moving the Motorola chip over to the used ECU was successful in carrying over the original:

• VIN
• Coding
• Start Authorization

All good now just need to get the engine back together and back in.

 

But the burning question is ...................

Did you swap the Chip or get your locksmith Buddy to do it ???

Either way, glad you've sorted it,

The later ME2.8's are way easier in some respects, I can do them in me sleep now, and @Deplore can do 'em comatose while standing on his head 🤣

We either clone it, virgin and SDS Initial Start, or swap the 8 legged Eeprom, depending exactly what we are doing, (standard Car, Upgraded Motor Swap, etc etc)

 

But the burning question is ...................

Did you swap the Chip or get your locksmith Buddy to do it ???

I was going to his place regarding an Architecture project so I brought the ECUS with me Sat and in about 10 mins he moved the chip. It's what he does every day of the week so it's easy for him. For me not so much

 

ME2.0 hat im Gegensatz zu neueren Steuergeräten kein Eeprom mit immo-Daten. Alles wird in diesem Motorola 4e28b-Prozessor gespeichert. Sie tauschen das, Sie tauschen auch die immo, Codierung, alles.

Hello community,
I'm new here and I'm writing from Germany, I find your forum very constructive and great and I hope you can help me. It's about my CLK W208 with a 3.2l engine, it's been causing problems for a short time and we had a 5 volt voltage supply from the air mass meter. Voltage fluctuates from 4.4 volts to 5 volts, which results in the motor making brief interruptions every three to four seconds. We checked everything, replaced cables, air mass meter, there is no improvement. Five volts comes directly from the engine control unit and when I measure directly at the five volt voltage output to the air mass meter, the voltmeter also shows a fluctuation. Then I came to the conclusion that it must be the engine control unit.
I now intend to get a new used ecu and clone it or make it virgin. It is about Bosch with ME 2.0 part number A0265456632, Bosch 261206300 with Eprom 4E28B.
I already got Kess V2 and could read and write ECU but engine does not start with new engine control unit because immobilizer is not deactivated. Have already edited the ECU file with Immo Off software without success. Now I've read your post on this topic and I think it's great that you managed to clone the engine control unit. I want to do it too and I certainly don't have two left hands, but I'm doing it for the first time and would be very grateful for your help.
As I understood from your post, I only need to exchange the Motorolla chip from the original control unit for the new used one and the problem with the immobilizer is gone or does the control unit have to be encoded afterwards. If so, you need Mercedes software or are there other solutions.
I would be very grateful for a short guide and you can also do any coding with Kess V2.

Sorry for my bad english
Thanks and Regards

 

Welcome to BenzWorld! First, your English is better than my German, so don't feel bad.

Please do, though, take a moment to fill out your user profile with the following information.

1.) The specific model, and model year, of your car
2.) Whether or not it's a 4matic
3.) Your general location in the world (country is fine)

The reason we ask for this info in the user profile is that MB provided certain options only in certain models, during certain years, in certain countries, and as you've no doubt guessed, we do have an international membership. To do this, just click on the icon representing your account. It's in the upper-right-hand corner of the Web page, and then fill out those fields.

One other thing. Since you have a W208 (CLK), your question might be best addressed in that particular forum here on BenzWorld. This happens to be the W220 forum, so it's possible that you might get some help here, since the technologies are reasonably similar, but I'm not certain.

 

Willkommen bei BenzWorld! Erstens ist Ihr Englisch besser als mein Deutsch, also fühlen Sie sich nicht schlecht.

Bitte nehmen Sie sich jedoch einen Moment Zeit, um Ihr Benutzerprofil mit den folgenden Informationen zu füllen.

1.) Das spezifische Modell und Modelljahr Ihres Autos
2.) Ob es sich um eine 4matic handelt oder nicht
3.) Ihr allgemeiner Standort in der Welt (Land ist in Ordnung)

Der Grund, warum wir im Benutzerprofil nach diesen Informationen fragen, ist, dass MB bestimmte Optionen nur in bestimmten Modellen, in bestimmten Jahren, in bestimmten Ländern zur Verfügung gestellt hat, und wie Sie zweifellos erraten haben, haben wir eine internationale Mitgliedschaft. Klicken Sie dazu einfach auf das Symbol, das Ihr Konto darstellt. Es befindet sich in der oberen rechten Ecke der Webseite, und füllen Sie dann diese Felder aus.

Eine andere Sache. Da Sie einen W208 (CLK) haben, könnte Ihre Frage am besten in diesem speziellen Forum hier auf BenzWorld beantwortet werden. Dies ist zufällig das W220-Forum, daher ist es möglich, dass Sie hier Hilfe erhalten, da die Technologien einigermaßen ähnlich sind, aber ich bin mir nicht sicher.
[/ZITAT]




Hallo, oh danke für das Lob, was mein Englisch betrifft.. Ich werde mein Profil bearbeiten. Ich bin dankbar für jede Hilfe. das Problem macht mich langsam traurig.. Ich kämpfe seit vier Wochen damit, leider ohne Erfolg.

grüße

 

Here's the English translation, courtesy of Google Translate, of oldsteel968's post.

"Hello oh thanks for the compliments about my English. I will edit my profile. I am grateful for any help. the problem is starting to make me sad.. I've been struggling with it for four weeks, unfortunately without success."

To the forum masters: I realize that his car is not a W220, but are there any pointers that might help him here?

 

Posts #10, #11 and #13 says how to clone it properly and easily.

Just swap the Motorola MCU from original ECU to a good used ECU !!

ME2.0 ECU is not as clone friendly as the later ME2.8 ECU which can be done several ways including Virginising.

 

Hi and thanks for the answer...what is the best method for removing the chip...maybe with a heat gun???..what do you suggest...i am doing it for the first time...and which method or software is best for make a virgin..thank you

 

Just because his car is W208 doesn't change the fact that the ECU is still the same. Just moving the 4e28b motorola MCU chip is enough.

If you are doing it for the first time, consider paying a phone repair shop or computer repair shop to unsolder and solder for you.

If you want to learn and practice soldering an desoldering, maybe its best not to practice on your ECU, if the motorola MCU is damaged, there is no other choice other than paying some guy big $$$ to fix it....especially a 52 pin chip.

Phone repair or computer repair guys will only charge what, $40 or $50? Around here they do, and even that's high. But that is preferable over destroying the chip because of a newbie mistake.

Like I alluded to earlier, if you had the later car with ME2.8 ECU, then yeah, I can and will encourage you to practice on your ECU, it's easy to recover from any mistake. Only 8 pin chip. And these ECU's are cheap enough that even if you accidently destroy your original ECU in an industrial accident, it's not at all difficult to get a new one and wipe and program it to your car.

ME2.0.....whole different story.

 

Take it to someone who is used to doing these chip swaps.

Virginising is not an option.

 

Being an old electronics tech, I would agree with Deplore and Dave. Doing surface-mount soldering of this type is not for the novice. Find someone who's successfully already done several, and have that person do it for you. Have I done surface-mount soldering of this type? Yes...but I'd now need some practice beforehand, too, since it's been a little while.

If I'm understanding Deplore's last post properly, the W208 uses ME 2.0.

Guys, thanks for your input on this.

@oldsteel968, for future reference, here's the forum for the C208 (CLK) chassis.

C208/A208 CLK-Class

1998-2003 : CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430, CLK 55 AMG (Coupes & Cabriolets) Moderator - rudeney

www.benzworld.org

 

Thank you all for your honest replies, my problem is that here in Germany there is hardly anyone who repairs anything and electronics workshops have died out here. People just buy new and don't fix anything. So I'm forced to try it myself or send my ECU to a company that fixes it or not and that's not cheap here, it costs over 400€ for fun.
I just need the right approach and as I said before, I definitely don't have two left hands.
greeting

 

Then, if you're going to do this, I strongly suggest plenty of practice before trying it on your ECU. My first recommendation for practicing this would be either old or broken computer motherboards. Those should be plentiful.

If you don't have the time to do that, then I can also tell you that 400€, which is about US $450, is still not a terrible amount of money to spend, if the electronics technician is good.

 

So there is no hobby shop (drones, RC, amateur hobby shops), phone repair shops, or computer repair shop nearby you?

Do german people relentlessly pursue the singular goal of filling up the landfill with discarded devices if they as so much get a single crack/defect?

I don't know your city, but I've been to Berlin and Munich. You literally can't walk from the hotel to the bus stop without passing at least a dozen phone shops, phone repairs and computer repair shops.

They are bound to have the necessary equipment and expertise to use a hot air station and soldering iron.

I repeat, ME2.0 is not the ECU I would choose for a novice. That motorola HC05 MCU has 52 pins. Are you going to desolder the whole MCU without ripping apart the PCB traces, or breaking the MCU into pieces?

Dave (@Dave2302 ) was also a novice like you last year or two. I guided him through the process, and he practiced on my count, at least half a dozen ECU and spare modules and random bits and bobs before he was confident enough to even attempt on a scrap junkyard ECU, never mind his own car. And this was on a ME2.8, which is much more novice friendly with the comparatively easier eeprom chip to remove (8 pin).

If you still feel like you can do it in spite of the warnings....don't say you weren't uninformed.

 

Verfolgen die Deutschen unerbittlich das einzige Ziel, die Deponie mit ausrangierten Geräten zu füllen, wenn sie auch nur einen einzigen Riss/Defekt bekommen?

You're right, meanwhile it's so because new electronics are relatively cheap and hourly wages for repairs are really expensive, so these small workshops are slowly dying out, at least that's how it is in the greater Stuttgart area.
I have understood your warning and have respect for this work. I'll do my best to find a professional who can do this work.

I have another question, I watched this video on youtube, is that also a possibility because he describes in chat that it also works with ME 2.0 ... what do you think.

 

Oh I definitely get it, I was born with a Snap On Tool Chest

 

Oh, ich verstehe es definitiv, ich wurde mit einer Snap On Tool Chest geboren
[/ZITAT]
ist[/ZITAT]

Oh, ich verstehe es definitiv, ich wurde mit einer Snap On Tool Chest geboren
[/ZITAT]

zu ic

ich zu

Oh I definitely get it, I was born with a Snap On Tool Chest

Me too with Gedore

 

so folks i have good news...my problem is solved after a long search, problem with five volt power supply for air mass meter what on the oil sensor..we have found that the oil sensor issues an error message if the engine is over 60 degrees warm then the engine starts to run unevenly again visible at the five volt pin for the air mass meter, after I disconnected the plug at the oil sensor, the engine ran normally and the five volt voltage remained stable..bingo.
How did I come up with it... last night it occurred to me that I should check this five volt voltage externally, so I removed the control unit and connected it to the laboratory power supply and with a multimeter I measured the voltage at the output for the air mass meter and I saw that the voltage remained stable gave me the idea the problem is somewhere else and as it turned out today the oil sensor or its cable has a problem somewhere. The oil sensor also needs five volts.
I hope that I could help someone with this report who has the same or similar symptoms. I would also like to thank you for all your suggestions, but I am interested in what you need for coding and cloning control units for ME 2.1 or ME 2.8 for everyone I am grateful for your guidance and suggestions.

 

Well, good that you found the problem...5v reference voltage being shorted by a bad sensor is not new in Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep. In fact so common that I've memorized the list of the sensors that require a 5v reference that I just unplug until I find the one that makes the car run. TPS, MAF, MAP, oil pressure sender, oil temp sender, coolant temp, and I believe cam sensor on the old 2.7/3.7/5.7 engine family.

But here's the thing, MB is not one of those companies that has the ECU output a single 5v reference voltage and have it connect to multiple sensors. They do have a common 12v reference voltage, but that is supplied by the fuse box. Had a quick look at the wiring diagram, the oil level sender and the MAF are on their own distinct harness. There is no intersection. They are partitioned, so failure of one circuit should not impact the other.

I think you still have a ECU problem, if a shorted oil level sensor can bleed over to MAF sensor circuit, then there is internal fault. MB makes many stupid decisions when designing a car, but ECU is not one of them.

 

I still have to remember that for some time now I've been getting error messages like the oil level is too low or implausible and then it's been quiet for a few days. A few weeks ago we replaced the oil sensor but without improvement because today I know the problem was somewhere else. Simultaneously with the oil sensor, the problem began with the engine running, only that my wife didn't notice it was only a few weeks later that I noticed the engine was running and ignored the oil sensor. Since then I've been up I am looking for a solution without thinking that the problem could be with the oil sensor circuit.
They think that I can still have a problem with the ECU, but today I also installed a replacement ECU in the car just for testing so that I can see whether 5 volts also fluctuates with this ECU and that was the case then I immediately knew the problem was somewhere else and not on the control unit. I think it could be that if the cable has a short circuit to ground somewhere, it will be transmitted even though different pins on the control unit are responsible for the air mass meter and oil sensor in the circuit diagram. I will examine all cables for damage on Monday and then I will report back.

 

Could be bad harness, or at least the portion of the harness that goes to the oil level sensor. Check around the water pump, if the water pump was replaced recently, the harness should route behind the water pump. If it is pinched between the block and WP, it will do that.

Or if the mechanic is inexperienced, he/she will put the harness in front of water pump, it will rub on the serpentine belt.

 

Good suggestions 👍