I know there is a specification for filling them when service is done, but how do I judge how much to add periodically? Also, what type of grease is this "yellow grease" and is it critical to add the same type of grease?

Thanks guys.

Bruce

The spec calls for "multi-purpose grease". The yellow color is used so that you can see if the black grease from inside the CV joint is leaking into it from a busted boot.

A new fill is 800 grams or about 2 X 14 oz tubes. In my experience, this leaves the swivel ball housing about half full when observed through the fill hole.

 

Swivel grease

The first time I saw the swivel ball grease on a G I thought of the grease used in outboard motors. So I've been using a product from Lubriplate called something like, "special purpose auto-marine grease". It's waterproof, light tan in color, and available from my local bearing supply house, so it fit the bill for me. It also comes in a nice squeeze tube in addition to the 14-0z tubes so I don't need to keep a separate grease gun full of it for the yearly service.

As far as adding grease between bearing service intervals, the inspection is supposed to be performed every 12,000 miles according to the 460 service manual. I top them up about once a year. But you're right, it's nearly impossible to judge the level after the stuff has been slung around inside. I usually just wipe off any excess that's squeezed out past the seals and use that as a guide and put in a little extra. This usually means stuffing in about a ping-pong ball sized wad of grease.

-Dave G.

 

Swivil Grease

Dutch and Dave,

Thanks for the info. Its sure great to have such expertise here!

Interesting why the color - Dutch. That would not have occured to me, but it sure makes sense. Mine looks nice and "yellow" now.

I'll look for the Lubriplate product and just wing it when adding some!

Bruce

 

one more point

as a notice of caution: do not mix greases of different soap bases! If you do so both greases will lose lose their sponge action and release the embedded oil.
http://www.benz.com/downloads/whatisgrease.pdf

 

Re: one more point

...do not mix greases of different soap bases!....

That's a great article, Harold, thanks for sharing.

And since most folks have no way of knowing just what's in their swivels to start with, I guess the best rule is to make your add of your material of choice and then check a few days later to see if the grease inside the housing is breaking down, or if there's any excess leakage from the seals all of a sudden.

-Dave G.

 

Re: Re: one more point

...do not mix greases of different soap bases!....

That's a great article, Harold, thanks for sharing.

And since most folks have no way of knowing just what's in their swivels to start with, I guess the best rule is to make your add of your material of choice and then check a few days later to see if the grease inside the housing is breaking down, or if there's any excess leakage from the seals all of a sudden.

-Dave G.

Geez, this is getting complicated!

Instead of adding some to an unknown base in the knuckle, would it work to just remove a small pinch from the knuckle and mix it with my new grease in a small jar and watch it? What might I do to hasten the breakdown if it is to occur? Maybe put the sample in the oven?

Thanks guys.

 

Or just change it all

It would be a great time to service those bearings. Pull the front hub/swivel assembly appart and pack the bearings and swivel with the new greese. I used the same stuff as Dave and it's pretty stiff. I just filled her up with a putty knife and reassembled. Seemed like a good excuse to check things in there while I was at it.

 

I dunno

The theoretical articles are never real great when it comes to actual practical information.

These guys don't make money by making incompatable stuff. If it looks and feels about the same, the chances are 99% that it's compatable.

If you want a "feel good" factor, scoop a little of your current stuff out and stir it up in a jar with an equal ammount of whatever your new stuff is. If that doesn't cause an obvious breeak down, then go ahead and add it to the swivel and maybe double check in a day or two.

-Dave G.

 

Europa Uses...

I've been dreading having to get into those front wheel bearings after reading all the posts about the replacement being a 12 hour job by folks that have experience..... and posts about bearings being tightened too tight.

The whole thing was serviced at Europa by the previous owner 10k miles ago. New bearings, boots, seals, etc.

I just called Europa to ask if I could buy a container of the grease they use - thought that wuld be the best way to assure compatibility. Louie in Parts was very helpful, but said they could not ship any chemicals. He did however go back to the Service area and get the container they use. If anyone else cares, its Carquest Premium Disc Brake and Wheel Bearing Grease - Part number 815-4. The -4 is a 4lb tub, but they also have it in 16oz containers. I'll buy some and see what type of base it is.

(Now if they just didnt change suppliers in the last 12 months! - Louie did say it was a yellow color).

 

Re: Europa Uses...

....Carquest Premium Disc Brake and Wheel Bearing Grease ...- Louie did say it was a yellow color).

Hmmm..... If it's the stuff I'm thinking of, it's more of a translucent "vaseline" yellow than the creamy opaque tan color of the OEM swivel ball grease.

One other thing to think about is that the generic wheel bearing grease like that one is usually not very water proof. This application is really better served by a highly waterproof grease that will stay in place on the exposed parts of the swivel ball as long as possible in adverse exterior conditions.

Not trying to make your job harder, just some food for thought.

-Dave G.

 

Geez Dave......

.

Not trying to make your job harder, just some food for thought.

-Dave G.

You sure make things tough on a newbie (new to G that is, but a 35 year 4x4 vet)! Ha. Ha. The stuff in my vehicle now is, as you say, opaque and a light tan color. I'll buy a 16oz container of the Carquest stuff and see what it looks like and what it uses as a base - then decide what to do.

Hey, we dont have any water in AZ anyway!

By the way, what do you think of the blue boat trailer wheel bearing grease for wheel bearings, u-joints etc.? A buddy of mine that is a 4x4 enthusiast and mechanic swears by it.


Bruce

 

Boat Trailer Bearing Grease

By the way, what do you think of the blue boat trailer wheel bearing grease for wheel bearings, u-joints etc.? A buddy of mine that is a 4x4 enthusiast and mechanic swears by it.


Bruce

Bruce, I tried it, but found that it didn't have good heat resistance; and, as a result, it got really runny and came out past the swipe seal a whole lot faster than I liked. In talking to Jason at Europa, he indicated that higher temp resistance is one more desireable characteristic of the grease you would use in the swivel ball.

 

Color coded grease. Like, what tie to wear to a formal event?

OK,

Are you all saying that the color of the grease has little, everthing, or nothing to do with the behavior of grease in water, or with regard to temperture changes, or its ability to reduce friction? The synthetic greases I have used tend to be of strange colors, like cobalt blue, blood red, or gun-metal gray. Attempting to impart some hi-tech composition, perhaps. Sometimes they even tend toward being clear or translucent. Then, there is the old standby, white lithium grease, that is built to hold out water - I think?

Does anyone here have a method of interpretation of color, transparency, and the qualities we require, namely, keep out water, lube Ujoints in warmish environments, and if the CV boots break inside the swivel ball, to provide a degree of lubrication that will allow the G to get us home again?

Also, there seems to be a theorical balance point we are seeking in the vicocity of the swivel grease - namely, too thin and it escapes the even a servicerable swipe seal, but too thick and it might "tug" at the boot in cold weather and cause premature damage to the boot over time, and might even be insufficient to lubricate the CV joint if you are not aware of the boot failure.

Someone noted that this is a difficult landscape - "grease". I agree. A Slippery slope, even.

I liked the Paul Michael article "What is grease?" offered by Harald.

 

Re: Geez Dave......

...Hey, we dont have any water in AZ anyway!....

Hee Hee!

Not a big deal I think. There's no correlation of color to performance. I see that as a plus. I can pick a lube for the job, and pretty much get the color I want. I have tan in the swivels, black in the CVs and swivel pins, and red in the wheel bearings.

The stuff for boat trailer wheel bearings is kind of specialized. It's engineered with the idea of being pressure fed by those spring loaded bearing buddy things. I don't use it anywhere on the G. but that's not to say it might not work. I don't have any experience with it outside of boat trailer bearings though.

-Dave G. (not even going NEAR that slippery slope comment![])

 

Grease is cheaper than machinery...

Hi, I farm here where it is very wet and use Cheveron industrial multiplex grease EP nlgi 2 superior EP (extreme pressure). It is currently red in color but used to be blue gray. It is a hi-temp, moisture resistant, very reliable product. It is also inexpensive. I use it for bearings, U-joints, steering knuckles, and on hi-heat applications like flail mowers. Things don't break and stay cool. I use this on my G driveline and front end.
For assembling splines I use Wurth professional SIG 3000. It is very resistant to pounding load. On a BMW motorcycle final drive spline I think it workes better then the special BMW grease.
For CV joints I use a moly based CV joint lube.

-Dai