I am sure this may have been asked before but I haven't found anything on it. I have an S430 '04 model. The serpentine belt is trash. What size torx is required to maneuver the tensioner. Looks like maybe a 10. My tensioner is the "new" style as there is no bolt jutting out of it. The torx is flush with the tensioner . I think that's the new style . Which way do I turn it to release the tension?
01BluBenz
What they don't really emphasize on this video is that they've removed the radiator and fan. You don't really need to remove those pieces but it will make the space much smaller.
Also the tensioner can be installed upside down and it makes the serpentine belt impossible to install.
Final note, there is a better than OEM option available at Advance Auto Parts. It has a metal tensioner wheel, not plastic. It's built really well and what I'm currently using in my car. I must also mention is that the same part number at Advance can have a plastic wheel and I don't know which one is the old and which one is the new model.
Also the tensioner can be installed upside down and it makes the serpentine belt impossible to install.
Final note, there is a better than OEM option available at Advance Auto Parts. It has a metal tensioner wheel, not plastic. It's built really well and what I'm currently using in my car. I must also mention is that the same part number at Advance can have a plastic wheel and I don't know which one is the old and which one is the new model.
It seems there is lots of scattered information in your thread.
The new style tensioner actually has a 17mm hex casting into the body of it. Look below and a bit to the left of the pulley and you will see it. Put a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive preferred) on it and push down (counterclockwise) I believe to release tension.
The key is to figure out why the belt shredded. It's quite rare, so inspect all of your rotating pulleys to be sure they rotate freely and quietly with minimal free play. (The idler pulley is a good suspect for this issue.)
Good luck.
Here's a pic, courtesy of autohausaz.com, of the tensioner with the hex casting plainly visible:
![Image]()
The new style tensioner actually has a 17mm hex casting into the body of it. Look below and a bit to the left of the pulley and you will see it. Put a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive preferred) on it and push down (counterclockwise) I believe to release tension.
The key is to figure out why the belt shredded. It's quite rare, so inspect all of your rotating pulleys to be sure they rotate freely and quietly with minimal free play. (The idler pulley is a good suspect for this issue.)
Good luck.
Here's a pic, courtesy of autohausaz.com, of the tensioner with the hex casting plainly visible:
Yes a root cause inpection as well as a full system inspection after a serpentine belt failure is an excellent idea. After my 120k (110k actual) maintenance I had my belt replaced but not the tensioner.
At about 125k, the plastic in tensioner wheel disentigrated in the middle and that cause the belt to get frayed and whip around the engine.
That's why I'm using this to avoid this problem.
![Image]()
Note that it's metal, not plastic compared to the OEM part.
-back to why inspection is important...
The root casue was the tensioner wheel, but I replaced the idler pulley just because that's also a known failure part.
About 2 days and 50 miles from fixing the belt and tensioner, I get a P0410 error (check engine light). After popping the hood and looking for the culprit. I found that the frayed belt had whipped and damged the hoses that conected to the secondary air pump.
That's why root casue and full system inspections are necessary. Otherwise you might be treating the sysptom, not the casue.
At about 125k, the plastic in tensioner wheel disentigrated in the middle and that cause the belt to get frayed and whip around the engine.
That's why I'm using this to avoid this problem.
Note that it's metal, not plastic compared to the OEM part.
-back to why inspection is important...
The root casue was the tensioner wheel, but I replaced the idler pulley just because that's also a known failure part.
About 2 days and 50 miles from fixing the belt and tensioner, I get a P0410 error (check engine light). After popping the hood and looking for the culprit. I found that the frayed belt had whipped and damged the hoses that conected to the secondary air pump.
That's why root casue and full system inspections are necessary. Otherwise you might be treating the sysptom, not the casue.
Due to my fat arms it took me about 30 minutes to change the belt . I changed it without removing the fans and other trim pieces. Little tight but still worked fine. Thanks for the help
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
