Me2, appreciate to the above comment - I'm another W210 DIY owner, this 20-year-old kid has been suffered from Limp Mode for 2 months. I keep searching and try helping out during this period.
Diagnosis tools - I have a Foxwell NT520Elite w 38pin connector, bought from eBay a few years ago (just in case for the future need), this time cannot help, undetectable any TCM for diagnosis. Hence, I have concern to buy aftermarket tools again. After all, I just bought iCarsoft v1.0 w its 38pin connector at Amazon.
Prior to this, I'm happy to share my story for both this kid and which tool I should go (Keep reading Benz forum, watching youtube DIY, asking questions etc.)
Option 1:
MB Star - I'm zero experience user and read there're lots of multiplexer (C3, C4, C5, C6). For W210 or 38pin connector under the hood, I was told (forum, Aliexpress seller) that C3 is the only option I can choose, "Com Port, HHT-WIN, this car is too old, .... etc" Not that expensive, less than USD700, it includes thick cables, grey box C3 multiplexer, windows XP on a used laptop. Well, I have many laptops already and don't want to own an extra. After all, I talk to myself "Your Uncle has another 2014 W212 E350, it's worth buying and investing. Panasonic Toughbook CF19 is thick but you can play how tough after the diagnosis". Yesterday, while almost clicked to buy, the Aliexpress seller told me, "You better go for Dell, it's very old model but run C3 well, better than Panasonic." This trashed my excuse to buy. Subsequently, I'm also informed C3 is not support newer model (W212? Not included?). To be blunt, I have concern that I need some time to configure and learn how to use Star and this creates more issues to me (Hey, why don't just go for your mechanic? You don't want to use this laptop frequently – if no, it implies this kid has many problems. But if use it once only, it's not worth investing. Dilemma!!)
Option 2:
iCarsoft - I also spent time to learn its product series, there're V1.0, 2.0, 3.0, CR-Pro, CR-MAX. Skipping 2.0 and CR-Pro, I should look for V1.0, 3.0, CR-MAX. These series provide more advanced functions than the previous one. The Star (yet) buying experience gimme gut feeling - don't go for the latest model and trash the idea for “buy 1 stuff then apply to all”. CR-MAX (Benz + other bands) is same as 3.0 (Benz only) which is more advanced than 1.0 (Benz only). Happy to read the above successful experience for W210, I'll try myself. This skip me building Star learning curve and see if I can get rid of Limp Mode.
See if you're interested, here's is the Limp Mode story.
2 months ago, I drove outside for buying something, park aside a street. Back and started engine (key turning 1,2, .... time lag then starts engine), it popped me the underneath and went into limp mode:
(1) Display Defective, BAC/ESP/ABS warning on dashboard
(2) Gear stuck in P (cannot move, I need to drive back to home. Then screw driver to the hole below D, unlocked, can move to D, drive in 2nd gear, dashboard pointers all zeros (speed, rev, temp, etc.) and warning "visit workshop")
Same day, read forum, (1) possibly be resolved by "R=R1+R2" which R1 is resistance of washer level sensor resistance and R2 is of coolant level sensor. I go for the easy one, replaced R1 by Febi new sensor. Display Defective was gone, then I didn't touch coolant for R2. Subsequently, I replaced the brake light switch and see if it can help (no harm to replace, cheap part and used for many years). BAC/ESP/ABS is gone too but reappearing sometimes (While using the Foxwell scan tool, I read the dashboard with 3 malfunction but found no fault codes at the Foxwell. If I ain’t use this tool, probably no such malfunctions, it’s weird!! - scanning then error on dash. No scanning, No error.).
The most frustrating issue is the transmission - it has been running for 6 years since last change ATF, last time (also limp mode - conductor plate, 13-pin plug) was done by my mechanic and this time DIY. I bought and replaced OEM MB ATF (4L), new gasket, 13-pin plug, and conductor plate. Prior to this job, I checked the TCM had little oil at the connector plugs and the 13-pin plug connecting to the conductor plate. Then I clean and remove the ATF oil by spraying electronic cleaner.
After the job, the situation has no change, turn key (1,2 .... time lag for 1/8 second... start engine), no malfunction. Foot on brake, try shifting PRND, it happened like this limp mode:
P to R (clunk sound), R to N(ok), N to D(clunk sound).
P to D (clunk sound), D to N(ok), N to R(cannot move, locked at N, switch off the engine, then can move to P)
The DIY job is exactly followed the youtube video, which he reminded TCM need to be reset in the end.
Finger crossed; I wish it could be resolved by iCarsoft v1.0. for simplicity.