This pic is pertaining to post I just made

 

Hi,

Ignore that code, that "Scanner" is not getting the full picture, only SDS will do a good job on these Cars.

I'll bet your TCM, (Transmission Control Module), is full of Oil, because the "Pilot Bushing" on your Trans is allowing Oil to weep up the Wiring into the TCU.

5 mins to Pull TCM which is in the Left Front Fuse and Equipment Box. Open up the casing to check for Oil, it will probably be OK if you douse it in Contact Cleaner and blow dry it, although you will need to change the "Pilot Bushing" at the Gearbox Connector, or it will happen again.

HTH,

Cheers Dave

 

Check the prefuses under the front carpet also, they don't like the power being disconnected and reconnected. One of the fuses protects the stater circuit.

 

Ok guys thanks for the advice. So here's the update. The fault in communication was indeed from the whole dreaded connector plug to the transmission. I disconnected it and sure enough it was saturated. Not to mention a lot of tranny fluid leaked out onto the splash guard just under it as well. I'm ordering the part today. Also in my hunt I discovered that my passenger front air strut is busted as well. So I'll be changing that one now also. After all this I can finally focus on the PSE pump to get door locks, soft close, headrest and lumbar all working again. Then I'll resale the car. I got a real good deal on it and it only has 120,000 miles on a 2000 year s500. I wish I would have done a step by step diy pictures for future ppl that might could use the help but when I'm working I'm not even thinking about pics. But I will try to start to do this. I love these forums and all the members that share. If it wasnt for this i wouldnt know the first thing about fixing mercedes. I have learned and done alot since. From fixing 722.9 transmission input speed sensors, to replacing the entire front end control arms, bushings and ball joints, tie rods, valve cover gaskets and changing and bleeding brakes on a sbc system. I've managed to do all these things without the star diagnostics scanner. Which I still will get in the future but for now I use the MAXIDAS 802 ALL SYSTEMS scanner and it has helped me succeed in all projects so far. I very grateful for all members that help along the way. Now I'm fixing things even Indy shop guys won't touch

 

"5 mins to Pull TCM which is in the Left Front Fuse and Equipment Box. "

Ummm...

The TCM is in the "other left" (i.e., right) SAM, under the right corner of the windshield. Fluid in the harness means that you need to pull the TCM and wash it out thoroughly with brake cleaner or similar solvent.

 

Hi Wally,

OK, OK, OK, yeah that's because you guys have the steering wheel on the wrong side, UK Cars TCU is Left, my bad, try the Right Side:grin

However there is only 1 TCU so if it ain't on the Left it must be in the right :devil

Cheers Dave

 

Thank all y'all again. Yes I did forget to check the tcm last night as well so ill do that as soon as I get home.

 

Ok guys I replaced pilot bushing pulled tcu found fluid in it as well as connector to pilot bushing. I got electric cleaner sprayed and cleaned plug pulled out and sprayed and cleaned tcu and connections put all back together I even dropped tranny pan drained all fluid out dropped valve body to access conducted plate sprayed the conductor 13 pin area clean put all back together replaced filter and pan gasket while I was in there. All that is done. Also changed front air strut.
I now still have the same fault in can for communication to etc or whatever tried to clear code it won't let me. Car still won't crank or start. Any ideas?

 

Can you access EGS data ? and ECU data for start enable status ? Brake light switch status for both contacts ?

 

Not sure if I can. I don't have sds. I have autel maxidiag md802 all systems scanner. It's been able to access everything I've ever needed and clear codes in every system needed. But I don't see a ecu or egs for start in my options. I can look up electronic values in many things but only eck thing I can find is ecu info for whatever part I'm looking into. I'm doing a full scan now to see if those pop up

 

Maybe I should check prefixes under carpet like pinkster said. Battery been disconnected for a week now while I've done all this. But in my scanner only codes I'm getting is faults in airmatic which is of course from the passenger front air strut and driver rear air strut I've already replaced. But cant get the system to lift till I can start it. I can't shift it from park. My scanner let me check the brake switch and it worked as I pressed down and watch my scanner tell me it was working

 

Airmatic codes are fault 2. c1207-8 fault in can with control unit N1 5/3 etc [egs] control unit
And c1517-2 critical vehicle level at rear axle from when it was jacked up I assume.
Both stored and current and I can't clear them they just still show fault after I erase them.
And airbag fault 3 b1315-009 stored and current b48 front passenger seat occupied and child seat recognition is defective
And same words but B1 315-016 b48 front seat occupied and child seat recognition is defective. But I think that could be from my back seats being took out from have to get rear strut out.
Also Sam-Fl- front left Signial acquisition and actuation module which is from pse not transmitting data from popped fuse. I put new fuse in but it popped new fuse also. So that was my next project

 

Hi,

The codes you are getting in Maxidas are not giving you the full picture.

However, being a pre facelift Car, and bearing in mind what you are now getting, this is pointing towards a Bad Pre Fuse or Bad EIS..........

You see, on earlier Cars, the EIS acts as a "Router" for Comms between a lot of Modules.

Does your gear indicator show what gear is selected on the dash ??
Can you switch between W & S modes with the Ign On ??
If not you could have a bad TCU, they don't always successfully come back to life after being full of Trans Fluid............ Mostly do, but not always :wink

Cheers Dave

 

Hey Dave 2302. No I can't see what gear it's in on the dash and pressing w and s modes isn't doing anything. I checked my battery voltage it's sitting at 11.7 -11.8.
The car started just fine before all this work. I originally started just replacing a rear strut. So had rear end jacked up for a week and front end face down the whole time while waiting for the strut to cone in. After I replaced the strut and let car down is when the non starting issue began. I can turn key all the way over the accessory turns on headlights come on just no crank and start. So I jacked up front end to access plug and pilot bushing which were soaked. Also while jacking front end I heard the front strut hissing every pump I did on my jack and found out front passenger strut was shot as well. So then processed to disconnect plug and pilot bushing. Cleaned the plug all out then pulled tcu and cleaned the connectors to it as they had fluid on them and opened you which had fluid in it but not alot so it's like I caught it right when it was beginning to do it. Must have started when rear end was jacked up. But I cleaned it all then put back together and waited a week for new pilot bushing and strut. I wonder of left over fluid that was wicking up might have continued to do so even after plug was cleaned nut while waiting for replacement pilot bushing. So I'm thinking to pull tcu again and double check it. I'm also going to check prefuses first before that. But all options and opinions welcome. Even procedure to check prefuses or anything else I should to would help greatly. If anybody reading this stuff has info you can post on here or PM me I'll supply my email or phone number. I did try jumping the car before as well but I don't think I had the key in the ignition when doing so buy him not sure about that honestly. Thank u everybody

 

First up, Where are you located? One of our members with DAS may be close to you.
Second Prefuses, Pull the carpet back from the front right side of the car on RHD cars the prefuses are under the black plastic footrest. Check for voltage on all the connections from the little black box (where all the cables are). Check this thread for more details of where.

If you do remove the TCM again to check it use a good electrical contact cleaner on the plug sockets.
As the key turns and no crank is this what happened when the battery was disconnected and reconnected? Or did it crank only once then stop?

 

Pinkster I'll be checking those prefuse today after work. I'm in Hendersonville, tn.
The car did start no problem before I disconnected battery. After installing rear air strut I reconnected battery and that's when there was no more start. No crank no start nothing at all just able to turn key to stage 2 accessory. When I turn all the way there's no response at all. Can't shift out of park can't get any crank/turn over nothing at all. Just able to turn it to key on ignition off. That's it. I think u know already I've changed 2 struts now. My transmission passes no fault in scan. It's the airmatic system that's saying communication to etc egs or whatever the title of this forum is saying. It's coming from the airmatic system. I also have other faults but those are mostly things that require starting the car to get cleared or fixed. Like steering angle sensor. If any members are around me that has the proper diagnosis tool that could come by would be great. Being it's not able to start the airmatic won't pump so I can drive it no where. Obviously also because I can't start it lol. Didn't know changing struts would have cause all this. But at least I was able to replace bushing pilot issue and tranny pan gasket and filter with new fluid. It has 120000 miles it's a 2000 s500 and hasn't had much done to it as the ppl before me just inherited the car and didn't know much about mercedes.
Also pinkster I did use a good contact cleaner on all connections and plugs and on tcm when I removed it. But if I do remove again I'll do the same

 

Hi,

Check Pre fuses first, @pinkster I thought they were in Front Right Footwell under alloy footrest plate ?? They are on my RHD Car, and americans say "Front Passenger Footwell" on their LHD's ???????????

If pre fuses check out ok, cheapest option is to replace TCU first, with a s/h one with same p/n, (or a revision p/n suitable for your VIN) :wink

I had a dead EIS, communication errors, but still got the Trans Display once I had replaced TCU, my dead EIS would also Crank the Engine once and fire for a few seconds after a battery disconnect :wink
My EIS was not sending Immo Signal to ME ECU :wink

HTH,

Cheers Dave

 

Sheesh... reading stories like this worries me about swapping out my battery.

Darn W220 paranoia at it again...:devil:twak:

 

Make sure that the transmission plug adapter (as some call it pilot bushing) is seated properly, and no pins from the conductor plate are bent / broken / shorted. On the conductor plate there is a reed switch which is open when the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and in any other drive gears, the switch closes, and the ATF temperature sensor is connected for the TCU to read. If the TCU does not read an open through the 13 pin connector, start is not enabled even though the gear shifter is in P/N.

Also check the fuse that powers the gear shifter ESM, N15/5. If it has no power, it is locked. Access the ESM with your scanner, if not accessible, it has no power.

 

@Dave2302 yes you are correct, post corrected.

Thanks for pointing it out.

 

@mrboca. I'll check pilot bushing again. But it was seated really tight having new one with new seals. It was hard to seat but it's in there and bolted down with the 7mm bolt inside it. I felt I could have tightened it a little more but did not want to over do it and break it or something. @pinkster this pic is what I see under passenger front floor board after I took plate out there s the parking sensor on back of plate and then just ground and power connections. I see no prefuses here.
Here is the pic o e ground looks really rusted and one power does have blue crust on top

 

The prefuses are in the black box with all the red wires to it (12V), check the pic.
The TCM socket needs cleaning, this will not get a good connection.

 

I made sure the pilot went in the correct way lined up perfect and then the plug itself went right in and tighten in as I twisted the pilot

 

What volts should I be getting from this. I'll send pic of my voltage meter so I'm too which selection I'm supposed to use. Electrical isn't a strong point yet since I've never had to do it. But I can learn

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad new but unfortunately your meter only measures AC voltage:frown If you don't have another meter and don't want to invest in one just yet, you can get a 12v test light from an auto part store for around $10 to do this test.

 

Here is my tcm just pulled out to double check it's bone dry and clean.
Now I took 2 close ups on the back of it where some of the bottoms of the solders or connectors have a rust type look on them but don't knw if that's normal

 

How do I remove the black box with prefuses