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Love that last pic Bansai! :D :thumbsup:

I've got that part (bushing) and I need to get around to installing it, maybe this week. I'll pick up some Double Bubble before I start...;)
 
Interesting. I noticed that loose linkage when I was under there this morning (replaced catalytic converter, front flex disc and was in the process of replacing tranny mount but replacement was defective).

Good thing I need to go under there again.
 
Finally...I replaced the bushing yesterday. Very easy job. Took about 15 minutes total.

My original bushing had basically sheared in half. If you have a higher mileage W210, your bushing is probably gone as well, or on its way out.

The rattle I had in my shifter at 120 Km/h is gone, as is any play in the shifter. It now feels very smooth and precise and firm!

Thanks again for all for the DIY efforts. The tip about putting the shifter into the '1' position is helpful, this really facilitates access to the bushing. Just make sure the vehicle is secured before you shift out of park!
 
I have a clunk coming from the middle to back of my wagon.
I went to the garage and they verified and nothing is loose under the car.
Could it be this bushing? I have 160000KM on the car.Thank-You
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I have a clunk coming from the middle to back of my wagon.
I went to the garage and they verified and nothing is loose under the car.
Could it be this bushing? I have 160000KM on the car.Thank-You
Do you know if they SPECIFICALLY looked at the bushing? Mine made a good "CLUNK" during shifting...

It only takes a few minutes to have a look at the bushing...
 
gear shift bushing

Greets.

This might be a bit "esoteric", but one of those items which DO wear-out.

In fact, I JUST replaced the bushing on the W140, which ALSO "disappeared" at 120.000 miles.

The symptoms of bushing problems range from a "Clunk" when shifting the Floor shifter, to a "Rattling" noise under the shifter when driving over rough roads.

On the W210, you will find the job MUCH easier if you place the Gear Selector in "1st" gear. It advances the shifter arm anteriorly, making it easier to access.


The locking spring clip holding the shaft onto the arm--- It is difficult to describe how to remove. You need to "Wedge" open the "Lip" of the clip before you can slide the clip off. I've done it in the past by sticking the blade of a Flathead Screwdriver into the clip to "unlock" it, then remove. Having the special tool always is nice.... :^)

Speaking of special tools-- Apparently, some MB tech recently came up with a special tool to install the Plastic Bushing (ZMACK Tools). I think it is pretty easy to just SQUEEZE in with a pair of Chanel Lock Pliers.

Hope this helps someone.
on symptoms, does it also include of its hard to take out key from park position?
 
I replaced it and now i the problem is sometimes it wont start. it seems like the stick shifter is not reading the right P,R,N,D,3,2,1. and some time wont go or reverse coz its not reading right or whatever. Please help...thank you so much in advance
 
I have replaced the bushing and now my problem is its hard to start. i have to play aroung with the shifter until it start..but what happened when it start when you put it to DRIVE, REVERSE or 3,2,1? the car won't GO.... you have to play again with the shifter until you feel the kicks and then the car will go. it feels like that its not a transmission problem. its more like on the placements of shifter or maybe some kind of sensor :( please help. I dont know what to do now..Thank you in Advance
 
Sir JJ, is it possible that you have inadvertently moved the position of the shift lock or the shift rod while replacing the bushing? Maybe the shift connectors have moved somewhat during the bushing replacement. It is not likely a tranny problem, but maybe a mechanical one related to the linkage. Hope the gurus will chime in on this one.

On another note, I finally figured out how to access the other bushing underneath the shifter. This can be done by removing the center console inside the car, as well as the entire shifter assembly afterwards. Upon lifting the shifter assembly the linkage can be clearly seen and easily accessible. Since mine was still intact I just left it alone.

Image


Before lifting the center console please remember to remove the two screws under the carpeting in the console box:
Image


Image
 
Sir JJ, is it possible that you have inadvertently moved the position of the shift lock or the shift rod while replacing the bushing? Maybe the shift connectors have moved somewhat during the bushing replacement. It is not likely a tranny problem, but maybe a mechanical one related to the linkage. Hope the gurus will chime in on this one.

On another note, I finally figured out how to access the other bushing underneath the shifter. This can be done by removing the center console inside the car, as well as the entire shifter assembly afterwards. Upon lifting the shifter assembly the linkage can be clearly seen and easily accessible. Since mine was still intact I just left it alone.

Image


Before lifting the center console please remember to remove the two screws under the carpeting in the console box:
Image


Image
Thanks for your reply bossing....so what do i need to do now? is it out of my hand now or still need to try? tell what i need to adjust....
 
Hi,

I saw the step-by-step photos for replacement of shift lever bushings. Thx. Wondering though about the approach to same bushing on the other end of the rod...the gear selector lever.

Evidently earlier models allowed the removal of the gear selector lever by simple removal of a 10mm bolt. Lever to a bench, press in bushing using special tools or not. But on the 1995 C280, chassis W202, I find no way to remove the gear selector level thus making space the ONLY issue.

I've seen special bushing installation pliers advertised, but not certain even those have enough room to work. Anyone have experience with a C280 workaround?
 
Franken-tool

I have to admit right off the bat I am somewhat anal about things. Why pay good money for something I know I can make myself. Having encountered the same problem wherein I needed to replace the shift bushing and reading this thread I knew I could make a tool that would do the same thing with spare parts in the garage. Yes- I will spend hours on something just because spending the money is offensive to me.

After thinking about how to accomplish the goal of seating the bushing in a tight space with limited access I came up with the following tool. It cost me no money as the parts were freely available in my garage. I suspect if you had to buy them the cost might be a few dollars.

The time involved was about fifteen minutes total (minus drying time of the epoxy). Basically, the tool consists of two washers, a piece of 3/4 inch copper pipe cut about 3/8 inch in length, a wing nut and a screw 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 inch in length the same size as the hole in the washers.

I placed the screw head in a vice, slid the washer down and seated on the head then slid the copper pipe down onto the washer. I then poured a small amount of epoxy in the copper pipe to secure the washer, pipe and screw together.

Next I took a ball-peen hammer and shaped the second washer slightly concave to hold the bushing in place as the tool works. I did this on a scrap piece of pine wood.

To use, take the assembled screw/washer/pipe and place on one side of the shift rod with the screw poking through the hole. Now, while holding in place, put the bushing on the threaded screw on the opposite side of the shift rod. Then put the washer on the screw with the concave face toward the bushing. Now just tighten a few turns with the wing nut and the new bushing is pressed in place.

Also, to install the clip which holds shaft to the arm, just take four pennies pushing two stacked in each side of the clip to hold it open. When the clip is slid into place, remove the pennies.

Easy as Pi.
 

Attachments

Ingenious!!:bowdown:

Kajtek, he's giving you a run for the money for own inventions. :D
 
I would just cut the bushing in a 45 degree angle, since it's not a continuous circle any more, squeeze it to a smaller diameter, insert it, and let it restore to the original shape/size.

The cut will not affect its function in any bit. any direction you move the lever, it will hold.
 
Hi, anyone manage to replace the bushing from inside the car. I found great picture in this site but I'm still not confident of doing it from inside. I tried to go underneath the car, it seems almost impossible to replace due to tight space and I need to pull the exhaust silencer down in order to do this. Tq
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Hi, anyone manage to replace the bushing from inside the car. I found great picture in this site but I'm still not confident of doing it from inside. I tried to go underneath the car, it seems almost impossible to replace due to tight space and I need to pull the exhaust silencer down in order to do this. Tq

Did you try placing the Gear selector in FIRST gear?? This advances the Bushing FORWARD, and makes it easier to access..
 
Did you try placing the Gear selector in FIRST gear?? This advances the Bushing FORWARD, and makes it easier to access..
Yes, I did moved the selector lever to 1st gear, but due to the mid exhaust silencer allows me very tight space to access to the clip. I can touch the clip and turn towards me, but I'm not confident enough whether I can install back the clip and the new bushing later. So I need options whether I can access from inside the car. Tq for the promp reply.
 
I followed these instructions and replaced the bushing too. Cept now when I go into gear, it jerks and makes a trumpet sound getting into gear. Not sure what I did wrong.
Only thing I can think is I didn't replace the clip with a new one (used the old one)? Did I have to-- and I took it in and out of gear (having to start the car) while it was disassembled for varying access. Either way, not sure what's going on and hope by saving $150, I don't have to spend $$$ to fix my screw up (which I still am not sure what that is!)
 
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