Start by initializing the steering angle sensor & make sure the connector is plugged in & all wires are intact. Then, try to clear the codes. One code may trigger another one......

 

The Steering Angle Sensor value is within the +/- range.

 

Art, the reset didn't do anything. Will check the wiring later today.

43Sqd, did the PDF meant to say the angle should be 0 +/-6 or 0 +/-0.6. As 2.5 would be in the 0 +/-6 range.
Who can help me with the alignment specs as I have to be very nosey to ensure the alignment shop does the right thing this time around.

 

Art, the reset didn't do anything. Will check the wiring later today.

43Sqd, did the PDF meant to say the angle should be 0 +/-6 or 0 +/-0.6. As 2.5 would be in the 0 +/-6 range.
Who can help me with the alignment specs as I have to be very nosy to ensure the alignment shop does the right thing this time around.

You are correct. I must have looked at different values. Disregard my post which I will edit.

 

There you go.
The wording is a bit confusing......Here is another newer WIS doc, with "newer values & different wording. It is about steering angle sensor rotor, but the part I highlighted refers to steering angle value.

 

Found an electronic 4 wheel alignment shop. They said my front outer tie rods are frozen in the inner ones leaving just 2-3 adjuatment threads. That previous shops had that challenge but didn't open up to me hence my alignment being off especially the front passenger side.
I've gotten the complete set of tie rods but there's a challenge. I only got 1 rubber boot that fits. The old boots were not providing a good seal as some water had collected in them.

 

If the rubber is not broken get proper clips & use old ones

 

Mech can't take it out unless they torch the entire tie rod to get the nut loose and that will likely do some damage to the boot.
The narrower end of the right side boot is already damaged from past alignment techs. So he can try to salvage that from the driver side.
Would you suggest I put the new boot on the driver side or passenger side?

 

Use an angle grinder & cut the tie rods from each other. You don't need a torch.
Doesn't matter which side you put the new boot. Both are equally important

 

Tie rods changed successfully but shop only did alignment of front wheels stating that they don't do rear alignment for my car and that the rear is currently within specs. Steering angle sensor faults all cleared. Codes present are: c1120 Esp yaw rate sensor and c1101-016 right front speed sensor open circuit in wiring.

I will check the front right wheel speed sensor wiring.

The Yaw rate sensor actual value ranges from -38.37 to -38.73 where as the spare Yaw rate sensor just sat at +92.15 and remained unchanged. I'm guessing the spare with positive unchanged value is bad while the present one with negative fluctuating values is still OK. What are your suggestions?

 

Tie rods changed successfully but shop only did alignment of front wheels stating that they don't do rear alignment for my car and that the rear is currently within specs.

What bullshit is that??? Is it a under a tree alignment shop??? They don't do rear alignment for ML??? What crap is that????
Did you see with your own eyes they were within spec? I doubt very much......
I think find a better place for alignment. You need your rear wheels aligned.

 

Change the right front wheel speed sensor first, then clear the codes and see if the Yaw Rate code returns.

Pre-soak the sensor a few times before attempting to remove it. If you break off the top portion you will have to remove the steering knuckle to get it out.

 

I will do exactly what the boss says.
Would also like to know the normal/actual value one should expect for a good Yaw rate sensor.

 

dramos, STOP with the BOSS and SIRS on the forum, as we are all equal. 43sqd is good enough.

 

Art I saw them connect stuffs on all wheels and some readings displayed on their monitor. Only the front was totally off. Still I was disappointed too. Will find another shop that does all 4 wheels.

 

Rear wheels are exactly like the front. They have an upper control arm & a tie rod. The reason they don't do rear is to finish with you fast & start another car (after charging you for a full alignment). Our cars are old & there is no way the alignment will stay within spec for long on African roads. You wont believe the stability the car will gain, when all wheels are properly aligned.

 

My employer gave me a day off today on getting to work. I've done a 4 wheel alignment in an Automedics workshop.
Car drives much better.

I have fuse 13 blowing out usually after steering angle reset which was what likely gave the steering angle fault codes in the first instance. I'm only guessing.
Also noticed driver side headlight main plug with some charred area may be contributory.
Codes left:
c1000 stored
c1120 MIL current and on
c1025-003 stored
c1203 stored
What do you pros think?
4ESP controller, yaw rate sensor or ABS pump. I'm headed to the wreckers already to get replacement of that headlight plug. I can get any part you recommend there.

 

Did you ever physically touch, test or replace the Steering Angle Sensor?

Clarify about fuse #13.

 

I did not touch or do anything to the steering angle sensor other than do the steering wheel side to side turn. Didn't want to take the risk knowing fully well it is a very delicate part.

When I plug my Autel MD802 it doesn't power on sometimes so when I check the fuse box I find out fuse 13 is blown. This has happened up to 3 times since the weekend and I keep replacing with my spare 10amps red fuse. I suspect the steering wheel reset burns fuse 13. Why? I do not know.

 

Next time try plugging the Autel without the key in the ignition. After the cables are attached insert the key in. See if the fuse still blows.

 

It seems my Drama needs overhaul of the electrical.
Discovered fuse 24 & 25 were blown but the electrician that helped me buy and fix the headlights back then copper-bridged each blown fuse. That means the amps, resistance, etc is not withing the 7.5 fuse rating.
I changed the fuses, repeated steering angle reset and tried the headlights on. Guess what happened?

Fuse 24 was blown badly its outer plastic was partly melted. The fuse box legend says its for right passenger lights. Where do I check for a bad connection or wiring? All other fuses were intact.

Concerning my day @ the wreckers, got another Yaw rate sensor, 4ESP controller all upgraded parts and headlight plug from the wreckers all under $50 because i may not get at such a price next time. I already understand c1000 is a must to replace 4ESP controller.

 

Before anything change/fix the headlight connector.
F24 is sidemarker light right
F25 is turn signal indicator right.
The right indicator wires are most probably shorting

 

I swapped the 4ESP controller and fit in another Yaw rate sensor.
The codes I have now are:
C1022 N3/10 fault in CAN communication. MIL on and current
C1140-8 Steering angle sensor not initialized. Stored

P0450-28 B4/3 fuel tank pressure sensor electrical fault. Pending

I left f24 without a fuse for now.
The bad headlight connector which I have repaired if for the left but f24 works for the right. Don't seem to be able to figure this out. Please help!

 

1. photos are only helpful if you can read the information on them. I believe the replacement module's number ends in 81 32. If that is the case, that module is for an ML55 AMG and is the wrong one. Is it 81 32?

2. fuse 13 supplies voltage to, the Steering Angle Sensor, the Data Link Conn. and Z54/2 harness located on the roof. Did you replace or repair any components listed in the jgp?

3. is fuse 13 still blowing?

4. take a photo of the melted fuse and fuse box and post it.

5. did you previously have code P0450?

As for the harness and lighting issue, open up a new thread on that issue. Do not include it in this thread.

 

Thanks 43!

1. The replacement module ends in 61 32 not 81 32

2. I did not replace or repair any of the components illustrated but I think the rear right door lamp switch is bad so I removed the bulb.

3. Fuse 13 has stopped blowing ever since I removed fuse 24

4. Photos attached: I discarded the burnt fuse 24 but still have the previous copper-bridged one

5. I did not have p0450 before

I will check the right headlight plug when I get home before i open a thread on it.

 

I forgot to include the jpg that I was referring to, and I have edited my post, but here it is again. It seems that there is a short of some kind in that harness because it includes the rear dome lamp.

 

43sqd guess you were away last week or so when I posted about my tailgate and fusebox issue. I undid some rough connections near the fuel filler hose and changed to the original connection after changing my fuse box.

 

Dramos, if you are going to refer to something that is your own, please supply the link to it. Don't let everyone search for it.

 

Here's the link to the thread 43.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/2672114-tailgate-locking-issue.html

 

When did fuse 13 start blowing, before or after you fixed the wiring abortion?

 

I would say before because It blew once when my right rear door lamp was intermitent and I tried to get the bulb out and had a short with the screwdriver. However I've taken out the right door lamp plug apart and made sure there's no short of any kind there yesterday. I only noticed the fuse blowing again when I got my Autel scanner and attempted the steering reset.