Got the windows up!? [emoji2]

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I can't believe a 200d is towing that. Is it just the Shell? No drivetrain or interior?

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Hehe, I sure did Jason, thanks! I needed to drop the glass in order to remove the chrome trip at the top of each door, I forgot to do it earlier.

It's not a shell, everything's in it except for the interior and whatevers removed from the body. The 200d did a mighty job, the only difference being that it probably took 30 secs for 0-60 instead of 15 ?

 

Hehe, I sure did Jason, thanks! I needed to drop the glass in order to remove the chrome trip at the top of each door, I forgot to do it earlier.

It's not a shell, everything's in it except for the interior and whatevers removed from the body. The 200d did a mighty job, the only difference being that it probably took 30 secs for 0-60 instead of 15 [emoji28]

Wow. MY 300SD isn't happy about hills in 4th gear with far less weight. But I guess the gearing is way different. I've got a 2.77. it does pull fine around town though.

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Looking forward to your updates, and seeing the new paint. Great pics of your 200D pulling your 107. It's pretty amazing. I shouldn't be surprised though. It is a Benz, after all.

 

Great photos! Good luck with the respray. Keep us posted.

 

Good luck Miko. Make sure you seal off the dash area- dust gets into everything after stripping. I did mine about 15 yrs ago and quite a lot of dust ended up under the dash. Easy to seal off with plastic.

 

Thank you gents - I appreciate the tips and advice.

Just to clarify, the 200D isn't mine (unfortunately I might add) - it belongs to my buddy who's a mechanic and looking after my babies. We're both in favour business and I try to keep him happy with beer and parts for his old lady

 

This makes me miss my 240D - worst mistake I ever made in selling it. I enjoy my C280, but the 240D was something special and unique. Mine had a manual 4 speed, which made it a joy to drive. The W123's were unbeatable.

 

The work started - evidence the car was fully resprayed once and some elements twice.

 

Next door neighbor is a German import, we have a lot of conversations about MB's.

He said his first car was a 200D (I think I'm getting this right). It was tan colored and he and his buddies nicknamed it "the Dune". Not for the color, for the speed it moved. That was funny for awhile...until he named my 1997 S-10 with it's amazing 4-cylinder, "the Glacier". We have fun talking about both.

I am considering a respray on her 280SL. Where can I find info on how to remove all the trim?

 

I am amused by the Mercedes-Benz diesel crowd. They are proud of those bullet proof drivelines and favor the tortoise over the hare in real life. I love to see them smiling in the slow lane on the freeway.

 

Be prepared for some surprises when the paint comes off. Our SL had obviously been side swiped at some point.
The passenger side fender and door had been replaced with used parts (different color paint) and the quarter panel had been

"repaired" by filling the dent with Bondo. Previous owner bragged that only Benz dealers had ever touched the car.

 

We also had one of those multi layer (12) paint jobs. I think the paint was thicker than the sheet metal.

 

Thanks @107merc - lucky for me, I'm happy to report she's straight like an arrow! Bar some rusty spots that we'll fix, but overall great nick for a 41 year old car living in wet climate.... Just look what they did to my old lady

 

That was quick - looking forward to more pics as things progress

 

Wow! they didn't miss anything.What colour will they prime with? The usual duck poo grey I suppose? Or maybe duck poo is green in Ireland!

 

Still a lot of work before primer, the paints removed 80% but the tricky part now is to remove the remaining 20% from all the other surfaces, crevices etc. The whole bodys done with 40 grit sandpaper, next steps are rinse and repeat with 80, 120 and 240.

 

Wow, no shortcuts here! This is going to turn out to be a very nice repaint.

 

Car is now resanded with 80 grit, and any imperfections are addressed with fiber and filler as needed. All exposed metal’s being prepped with Debeer Washprimer, which is sprayed directly to metal, and sanded again with 120 and 240 so it will take a couple of layers. The fantastic news is that there’s no rot (other than rear valence which is replaced with new) or any evidence of the car being in an accident - soooo glad the history of the car checks out, to paraphrase the old saying “the proof is in the pudding i.e. metal”

While I’ve attention, does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations which glue to use to stick the windscreen back on? The reason I ask is because the original glue was still somewhat soft, sort of caulk like, and the adhesives available today usually cure to rock solid which may not be a good fit for a 40 year old convertible.

 

The options are a modern PU or butyl rope with the integrated heating wire.

I couldn't find any fitters who would do the job with a butyl rope so had to go with a modern PU.

The advantages of using the butyl rope are the ease with which the screen can be removed without paint damage.

Anyway if you go with PU you need to watch the fitter like a hawk to ensure the do not smear any excess onto the trim clips or beyond the screen which could then impede the trim.

After mine was fitted I still did have to immediately go round the screen and clean off some excess in a couple of areas on clean out one of the trim clips which got smeared.

Doing it again I think I would go for the butyl rope and do it myself.

Dont forget to get the correct spacers to be used ahead of fitting as the fitter probably wont have the correct ones or know that they are needed at all.

 

 

I has to do some clean up, up this right hand edge.

 

@RaceDiagnostics Thanks a bunch Jim, as always, Jim! And as always I have more questions: 1, are the spacers available from MB? I didn't see them in EPC in the windscreen diagram. 2, when you say butyl rope with wire - is this what you have in mind? Butyl Round Cord 8 mm x 6 m Black: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools I'm open to either option as I'll probably refit the existing windscreen, and if the unspeakable happens I'll get a new MB sorted through insurance - right now the dealer is having a hard time figuring out which p/n is the correct for my old lady, A107671110 or A1076710210.

 

I think the special butyl rope with the integrated heating wire is still available from MB.

This PDF shows how it is used, you may have sto sign in to Aktuelle Themen to be able to view it or look it up on the workshop manual CD etc.

The PDF shows the correct dimensions for the spacers, I made mine out of strips of plastic.

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Chassis/67-100.pdf

 

Thanks Jim, perfect. I think the butyl kit A1266700193 might not be available any more, in which case I'm stuck with aftermarket alternative or PU. I'll call up to a local Mr Windscreen, he's been around for decades and might have some pointers. I'll have to make up those plastic spacers too.