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Moisture in the distributors -- My solution!

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10K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Panzerwagons Are Cool  
#1 ·
Hi everyone -- as I mentioned in other posts, I was having an ongoing problem with moisture getting into my distributors every time it rained, and even when going to car washes. I would get severe stumbling below 2500 RPM for the first ten minutes or so of driving, then clear up entirely after the engine warmed up and evaporated the moisture. I had my mechanic inspect and eventually replace my caps and rotors, but it didn't really help. I know this is an known issue for the early M119 motors, but nobody really seemed to have a permanent solution.

So, here's what I did -- and seems to be working really well so far (about two weeks now, with several days of very heavy rain and humidity).

I sprayed all of my ignition components with NeverWet superhydrophobic coating (not the electrical leads, obviously), including the inside of the plastic outer covers and the plastic brackets that they snap onto. Basically everything underneath the plastic covers was coated.

To be honest, I didn't have high hopes going into the project, but I was at a loss for solutions so I figured it was worth a shot, since the product had generally good reviews including from a guy who used it on his motorcycle engine that was also having issues with moisture.

Anyway, the process was pretty simple. I took off the plastic covers and set them aside, and removed the ignition cables from the distributors to better expose everything. I covered the distributor leads with tape to protect them, and then I cleaned everything with a heavy-duty citrus degreaser and dried it all thoroughly. After the prep was done, I coated everything with product, let it cure, and that was that.

The product itself is two-stage; a base coat and a top coat. They recommend multiple coats of each for best results. The base coat basically seems to be a latex-like coating, and the topcoat is almost like an acetone. I can see why it needs to be two stages; the topcoat won't adhere to anything at all without that base down first; may as well be spraying canned air.

I did three coats of base coat and then two coats of top coat, waiting about 30 minutes between coats. I would have done more, but the base coat goes WAY further than the top, which shoots out of the can at a higher pressure than any other aerosol I've ever used. Two cans of top coat are probably a better match for one can of base.

The only other issue is that despite what it says on the package, this stuff is BLUE. Like, really blue. The package says that it should be a 'frosted' clear -- and the base coat basically is -- but once you spray that top coat on, it definitely has a blue finish to it. Now, this is an industrial coating and not consumer/cosmetic, so it probably doesn't matter to most users, but I wasn't really expecting it. And anyone who takes a look under those covers is going to be thinking WTF, because it does look like someone spray painted the ignition system translucent blue for some reason.

But after I let it all dry and cure (about three hours) I tested it out by pouring a bottle of water over everything I coated, and literally not one single drop touched any component. The water literally bounced off, exactly the way it did in the marketing videos. I was impressed. Took the car to the car wash... drove just fine right after. And two weeks later it still seems fine, even after quite a few days of very heavy rain.

Hopefully it keeps up. According to the manufacturer it should last at least a year, particularly if there isn't any rubbing, bending or friction on the coating, which there shouldn't be in there (I can tell that it does rub off fairly easily).

Anyway, just thought I'd share! If anyone is having moisture problems this might be worth a shot for you.
 
#2 ·
I am having the same issue with my 93 400SEL. It was fine before I left for a trip. I was gone for about 1 week and when I come back, the engine idles crappy. I just replaced distributor cap and rotors and spark plug wires about 10, 000 miles ago.

I just placed an order for a new distributor caps and rotors and see if this fixes the problem. If not, I will try your suggestion.

Thanks.
 
#5 ·
My former 1995 S500 coupe was like this - if it sat for more than a couple of days the idle would be horrible until the caps dried out. It got so bad at one point the car wouldn't even start.

I just wiped them out with a dry cloth every week or two and that seemed to help a great deal. Granted, it's somewhat time consuming, but it did make a difference.

What I have found strange is that I have other cars of the same type and vintage that don't have a problem. I always wondered why it was this car and not something that affected all of them across the board?

Dan
 
#7 ·
Turns out it worked for about two months before the problem began to return. I haven't opened up the covers to see if the coating has worn off, but I suspect that the high temperatures on the engine reduce the lifespan of the product.

So now it's basically square one again. I don't really want to go through the coating process every few months; it's not difficult, but it is time consuming (mostly because of the amount of time required between the multiple coats). I wouldn't mind doing it every year, but not every few months.

This really is a bizarre problem. I mean, with brand new caps and rotors it just shouldn't happen, unless the moisture is getting in there some other way.
 
#8 ·
i am going to try the silicon grease inside the caps. I have replaced caps and rotors twice due to this problem.

I have a new issue now. I can hear the blower for the heat but no air is coming out of the vents. I can switch to AC and the air blows fine. Any ideas on this one?

Debbie from Memphis
 
#12 ·
good question.
2 weeks ago my garage queen sl500 was brought out from her slumber.
engine ran to temp but no hot air throughout the vents.
the pipe running to the valve was hot but the pipe running out of it was not.
so i squeezed the inlet pipe a couple of times, and that was enough for the valve to open and all work fine.
if that did not work i would have checked that there was no air trapped in the system, and then looked at dismantling the valve and cleaning it out.
cheers raj
 
#14 ·
True, the listing is for the I6 and V12 engines. My 600SEL has sat outside in all weather for the last 4 years and I've never had this problem. Maybe the lack of a seal is a problem specific to the V8's? All the posters with problems in this thread are running a V8.

If this spray-on sealant works for a while, maybe a bead of hi-temp silicon will do the same but with a longer lifespan.
 
#17 ·
Hi temp sealant will be mandatory for that location of the engine. i will look around and see if there is anything I can find for ideas. I am surprised at this, meaning I can't get over this is such a common issue! I have a 93 and about to order more parts so once I am done I am going to do whatever it is your doing!

As far as your heating issue, it sounds like the flapper is not opening for the center vents...vacuum issue or control perhaps? If the A/C blows like you say then it does sound like controls. Can you run the diagnostic on the control panel to run everything through it's paces and verify there are no codes?

Chris
 
#20 ·
Spray a light coat of wd40 inside and outside the cap. this has always worked for me. this is what i do every time the lot boy gets agressive with the engine wash i have to go down to the car wash and remove the cap wipe it out with a rag then spay light coat of wd40 inside and out reinstall and tell him to start it up and drive back to the shop
 
#21 ·
thank you! Finally after of years of dealing with this issue, I think this will work. This week I plan to install a new coolant level sensor and check that flap that may be causing the problem with the heat blowing. I really appreciate the help and kindness you guys have shown. Thanks again!

Debbie from Memphis
 
#22 ·
Moisture causing stuttering/hesitation

If you've replaced them, it's not the cap and rotor from my experience. The culprit has been the plastic disc/insulator against the metal behind the cap. It starts to degrade over time, and it's often not even visible when it happens. You start losing spark because it actually penetrates this disc to the metal. If you remove it, sometimes you can see what looks like black hairline cracks on the back (it's marked from where it's arcing). Replacing the disc makes a HUGE difference, but I'll still have issues sometimes after several days of rain and the car sitting. No problems after car washes or driving even days in the rain, but only when the car has sat for multiple days in wet weather. Winter isn't even an issue, as long as I drive the car regularly.