Hi there,
First time posting.
I am very new to this, I have had my ML 2005 270 CDI for 2 years now. I am really happy with the car, I have tried to look after her as much as I can, currently has 89K miles.
I have seen a (oil) leak just under the inlet (intake) manifold, I have found plenty of information with clear pictures on various Mercedes forums on how to tackle this issue. The steps I have gathered from this information is:
1. Remove all components blocking access to the inlet manifold.
2. Remove manifold.
3. Spend hours and hours cleaning manifold with oven cleaner and various other cleaners to remove carbon build up and gunk.
4. Remove flaps and replace with a certain type of bolt, as the flaps will fail eventually as this is apparently a design flaw of the ML. This is where it starts to get confusing for me, I have not seen a in-depth explanation for this bolt, I have only seen that 3/8" BSP bolt is used. I have copied what "Jay De Wet" member did to his manifold, he stated as follows.
"Basically you just pop out the spindle and sealing bushes and tap a thread into the plastic holes. I used 3/8"BSP tap and blocked the holes with brass BSP pipe end caps. Also drill and wire wrap the plugs to prevent them working loose."
I have no idea where to get these bolts from, and does he simply mean tap them in or do I screw them in place and drill a hole in each bolt head and insert the wire so they do not loosen up.
5. The flap motor needs to be unplugged and a resistor put across it on the loom so that the ECU still thinks the flaps are working. I have no idea at all on how to do this. If someone could please explain to me on how to do this I would greatly appreciate it.
6. Apply new gasket and install manifold back with all other components.
I hope I have not missed anything in the process of removal, (cleaning) fixing and reinstalling the inlet manifold.
Now everyone recommends to have the EGR cut off or known as EGR valve delete, I have read that this has many advantages including, power, torque, MPG, engine life, reduction of black smoke and so on. However the main reason I would like to delete the EGR valve is so that the inlet manifold does not get in such a bad state anymore, surely this is not good for the engine.
This is the point where I really get confused with the whole thing. My questions on the EGR valve delete are.
1. Do I physically have to block the EGR valve with a plate of some sort, or is this a electronic thing where I have to tap into the wires stopping the EGR valve from working so it does not let the exhaust fumes back in.
2. How on earth do I tap into the wires, I have seen several explanations on this however I really cannot make sense without pictures showing exactly what to do.
I have seen a thread which has this link EGR valve emulator BOX Mercedes C / E / S / ML / 220 CDI / 270CDI / 320CDI CDI3 - Abbes-Performance.com where you can buy this set and apparently it is a piece of cake to fit. I am not sure if this is trust worthy and worth the money, or if the wiring to stop the car going into limp mode is easy enough for a dummy like me to try.
The more I have read on this topic the more confused I have become, if someone could please help me with a step by step instruction on how to perform wiring on the manifold and how to block and where to block the EGR valve if in fact I have to block it and how to wire it. I would really appreciate this very much.
Thank you
I am looking forward to seeing a reply
Kind Regards
Granit
First time posting.
I am very new to this, I have had my ML 2005 270 CDI for 2 years now. I am really happy with the car, I have tried to look after her as much as I can, currently has 89K miles.
I have seen a (oil) leak just under the inlet (intake) manifold, I have found plenty of information with clear pictures on various Mercedes forums on how to tackle this issue. The steps I have gathered from this information is:
1. Remove all components blocking access to the inlet manifold.
2. Remove manifold.
3. Spend hours and hours cleaning manifold with oven cleaner and various other cleaners to remove carbon build up and gunk.
4. Remove flaps and replace with a certain type of bolt, as the flaps will fail eventually as this is apparently a design flaw of the ML. This is where it starts to get confusing for me, I have not seen a in-depth explanation for this bolt, I have only seen that 3/8" BSP bolt is used. I have copied what "Jay De Wet" member did to his manifold, he stated as follows.
"Basically you just pop out the spindle and sealing bushes and tap a thread into the plastic holes. I used 3/8"BSP tap and blocked the holes with brass BSP pipe end caps. Also drill and wire wrap the plugs to prevent them working loose."
I have no idea where to get these bolts from, and does he simply mean tap them in or do I screw them in place and drill a hole in each bolt head and insert the wire so they do not loosen up.
5. The flap motor needs to be unplugged and a resistor put across it on the loom so that the ECU still thinks the flaps are working. I have no idea at all on how to do this. If someone could please explain to me on how to do this I would greatly appreciate it.
6. Apply new gasket and install manifold back with all other components.
I hope I have not missed anything in the process of removal, (cleaning) fixing and reinstalling the inlet manifold.
Now everyone recommends to have the EGR cut off or known as EGR valve delete, I have read that this has many advantages including, power, torque, MPG, engine life, reduction of black smoke and so on. However the main reason I would like to delete the EGR valve is so that the inlet manifold does not get in such a bad state anymore, surely this is not good for the engine.
This is the point where I really get confused with the whole thing. My questions on the EGR valve delete are.
1. Do I physically have to block the EGR valve with a plate of some sort, or is this a electronic thing where I have to tap into the wires stopping the EGR valve from working so it does not let the exhaust fumes back in.
2. How on earth do I tap into the wires, I have seen several explanations on this however I really cannot make sense without pictures showing exactly what to do.
I have seen a thread which has this link EGR valve emulator BOX Mercedes C / E / S / ML / 220 CDI / 270CDI / 320CDI CDI3 - Abbes-Performance.com where you can buy this set and apparently it is a piece of cake to fit. I am not sure if this is trust worthy and worth the money, or if the wiring to stop the car going into limp mode is easy enough for a dummy like me to try.
The more I have read on this topic the more confused I have become, if someone could please help me with a step by step instruction on how to perform wiring on the manifold and how to block and where to block the EGR valve if in fact I have to block it and how to wire it. I would really appreciate this very much.
Thank you
I am looking forward to seeing a reply
Kind Regards
Granit
