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M130 engine removal\rebuild

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Look what I found when I opened the oil pan
Tons of silicone everywhere and the oil filter was stuffed inside with garbage
Someone went crazy with the stuff
And not a single bolt is tighten properly and few had missing washers
Someone did garbage of a job here











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#23 ·
Oh. No.

I was hoping it would not come to this after you discovered the two missing bell housing bolts. A hack has violated the absolute and clear order of your internal combustion engine, creating a disturbance in the Mercedes force.

Keep digging deeper. You are doing a great job and the engine will soon be restored to proper nick.
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
I finally took the engine apart.
First of all I feel now that I can put the engine back together, everything was so easy to remove I couldn't even believe how easy the pistons came out.

Now,
I think I am ready to claim that I have found the problem.
In my opinion the reason why re engine was opened last time is to replace the main bearings.
They look like they were put in yesterday

I'm afraid that is not the case with the big end rod bearings
Piston 1 were good, piston 2 excellent looking silver
Piston 3,4, and 5 have copper color and the crankshaft has grooves on that area, not smooth as the 1,2 and 6

My question is, do these bearings have wear indicators and is it the copper layer?
And how is this causing the ticking, throws of balance the pistons?
Everything else looks good, really good.
Pistons are good, rings are good, engine block walls are in fantastic shape.

This is my guess for now, I will take all of the components to a shop for measurements to confirm my theory.
I didn't find destruction I expected to see but I think there is defiantly wear on the big end rod bearings.

Can anyone comment based on the pictures?
Thank you









Piston 1 bearings


Piston 3,4 and 5 bearings






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#25 · (Edited)
I'm going to try one more time to talk sense to you. STOP with what you are doing with the engine. You have a seriously compromised engine assembly on your hands. I can almost guarantee the crank is worn beyond machining tolerance and I assure you the hardened surfaces of the crank journals are history. The fact the ring/piston assemblies slid out easily doesn't instill me with confidence regarding the bore wear.

If the cylinder head you pulled is in good shape and it's already in the machine shop then purchase a rebuilt short block from a reputable source. If they haven't started work on the head then get a complete engine.

I can tell you what happened to that engine. Someone over heated, blew a head gasket and ran it with coolant leaking into the oil until it wouldn't go any more. They pulled the engine (missing bolts tell the story), got an estimate on repairing the damage and decided to "half-arse" the repair. You have the result.

If the bore is beyond standard size you will be buying new pistons and rings at a minimum and I bet they will set you back over a grand and that's not even figuring machine work on the block and who knows what shape the crank and rods are in.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Mike D said:
I'm going to try one more time to talk sense to you. STOP with what you are doing with the engine. You have a seriously compromised engine assembly on your hands. I can almost guarantee the crank is worn beyond machining tolerance and I assure you the hardened surfaces of the crank journals are history. The fact the ring/piston assemblies slid out easily doesn't instill me with confidence regarding the bore wear.

If the cylinder head you pulled is in good shape and it's already in the machine shop then purchase a rebuilt short block from a reputable source. If they haven't started work on the head then get a complete engine.

I can tell you what happened to that engine. Someone over heated, blew a head gasket and ran it with coolant leaking into the oil until it wouldn't go any more. They pulled the engine (missing bolts tell the story), got an estimate on repairing the damage and decided to "half-arse" the repair. You have the result.

If the bore is beyond standard size you will be buying new pistons and rings at a minimum and I bet they will set you back over a grand and that's not even figuring machine work on the block and who knows what shape the crank and rods are in.
Click to expand...

Mike, thank you for the input.
First of all there is no reputable source to buy rebuild short block in Canada, parts are much more difficult to find. i would not throw this engine yet until i get the measurements and opinion from the engine shop. i don't think its the first nor the last engine to have the bearings worn.

getting used engine is a gamble, could be worse than mine, i can't tell unless it works on the car but even then. i have an opportunity to make things right here. Again, without all the components being measured its a guess. I will advise once i have that info.
 
#27 ·
#28 ·
Well, I admire your persistence. I question your judgement but I question MY judgement almost every time I tear into one of my old Benz.:D

Good luck.:surrender:
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Mike D said:
Well, I admire your persistence. I question your judgement but I question MY judgement almost every time I tear into one of my old Benz.:D

Good luck.:surrender:
Click to expand...
Mike
You have opened more than one engine and this is my first one, so you have more experience on the topic.
I just don't want to give up on it until I hear from the shop. If it's only grinding the crankshaft and putting next size bearings, this is a no brainier for me, the engine stays.

If it's the rest of the things like pistons, block etc I have no other choice but to look for another engine and this is an exercise I don look forward to entertain.

We'll see what is my luck next week.
I will provide an update soon.

Thank you

Here is a video I took before removing the bearings
http://youtu.be/7RBHvlt3Hhk



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#30 ·
Hmm, this will be interesting to see how it works out for you. I just bought a finnie that someone had paid a shop to rebuild the motor - the bill was $18,600! It did 700km before detonating and blowing holes in the sump and block. Something was seriously wrong. I got the invoices for the original engine build though - just the pistons alone cost $1800. So there is serious money to rebuild a whole engine. I am hoping to swap all the good bits into another block. I will open it up over Xmas to see what I do and don't have. It seems crazy that rebuilding an MB motor should cost more than about 5 chev V8's...
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
drew56cus said:
Hmm, this will be interesting to see how it works out for you. I just bought a finnie that someone had paid a shop to rebuild the motor - the bill was $18,600! It did 700km before detonating and blowing holes in the sump and block. Something was seriously wrong. I got the invoices for the original engine build though - just the pistons alone cost $1800. So there is serious money to rebuild a whole engine. I am hoping to swap all the good bits into another block. I will open it up over Xmas to see what I do and don't have. It seems crazy that rebuilding an MB motor should cost more than about 5 chev V8's...
Click to expand...
That is insane
I am not going into those waters
Completely rebuild M130 engine from metricmotors is 7000

I will know soon


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#32 ·
ADSIT' also advertises for their rebuild engines and A/T.Wonder if anyone has done business with them for a engine.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Ladies and Gentlemen,

Finally got the verdict from the engine shop.

First the bad:
* It needs 1st oversize main and big end bearings plus crankshaft resurfacing.
* Needs new valve guides
That's it, that is the bad.

The good:
block is good, pistons are good, head is good, springs are good, valves are good.

Since I have everything open, Engine shop recommendations are:
* hone the bores
* new standard size piston rings
* valve seats will be replaced and cut, valve guides honed
* re-surface the head and the block for perfect fit

He started working on the head already, valve guides are 90 bucks for 12.

I have checked the mercedes classic, metric motors and autohouseaz and main and big end bearing prices vary from 127 to 300 and piston rings vary from 220 to 571.

Any input is appreciated.

I plan to do what he recommends so I don't have to open this engine again for a while and since I'm in to do it properly. I will also put new chain and chain tensioner.


I don't expect the total cost with labor, parts and every single gasket bolts, to be more than $1500.

Thank you.
 
#34 ·
That is good news. Congratulations. I would suggest getting a complete crank kit from Metric Motors but it is pricey ($900.00 USD). I would be leery of the surfaces on your existing crank. Is the machine shop going to "harden" the crank after machining? Replacement of valve guides is a common repair after the M130 has been over heated.

Plan on a 30% cost over-run on your estimate to cover misc. bits you will end up replacing.
 
#35 ·
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Mike D said:
That is good news. Congratulations. I would suggest getting a complete crank kit from Metric Motors but it is pricey ($900.00 USD). I would be leery of the surfaces on your existing crank. Is the machine shop going to "harden" the crank after machining? Replacement of valve guides is a common repair after the M130 has been over heated.

Plan on a 30% cost over-run on your estimate to cover misc. bits you will end up replacing.
Click to expand...
900 plus 400 if I don't send the core
Shipping to Canada will kill me so I would probably need to spend 1500 plus just on the crankshaft


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Discussion starter · #38 ·
#39 ·
Hi kavadarci,

Nice thread, you are doing a great job!

If you need some help there is Dan (Benz Dr.) here in Ontario he purchases MB parts all the time and may help you out. Should you need to contact him here is his e-mail

"Dan the Benz Dr. SL Barn" <benzbarn@kent.net>

You can find him in the Pagoda SL Group Forum.

Good Luck with the reassembly!
 
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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Rolf-Dieter said:
Hi kavadarci,

Nice thread, you are doing a great job!

If you need some help there is Dan (Benz Dr.) here in Ontario he purchases MB parts all the time and may help you out. Should you need to contact him here is his e-mail

"Dan the Benz Dr. SL Barn" <benzbarn@kent.net>

You can find him in the Pagoda SL Group Forum.

Good Luck with the reassembly!
Click to expand...
Thank you Rolf
Dan was going to sell me another engine


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