No possibility of any hiccups if you have the all plastic sensor, but.... The sensor lined with metal... I have heard horror stories of the fifteen minute job taking 12 to 24HOURS, yes.....

The metal lined sensors can get corroded locked into the hole...

I do want to say the later M119's 90's engines have a plastic one.

Now, your car being a 98. You sure it has a M119? You are supposed to have a M113 ? On a M112/M113 the sensors are plastic lined, and one can replace that sensor in five minutes..

Hope it helps,

Martin

 

Now, your car being a 98. You sure it has a M119? You are supposed to have a M113 ? On a M112/M113 the sensors are plastic lined, and one can replace that sensor in five minutes..

Hope it helps,

Martin

Funny how Mercedes designates the model years. My SL500 is a 98 and has the M119 engine the car was produced in Dec 97 as a 98 according to the door sticker. I made sure it had the M119 when I bought it cause I had read that 97 was the last year of the quad cam motor, there are many conflicting articles on this plus I read that 98 was the last SL600 with the stitched dash board but my 99 has the stitching and it was produced in may of 99.

 

1998 has m119
1999 has m113

Interestingly enough, the 1998 SL500 has slightly more HP that the 1999 SL500, but the m113 engine has a better HP curve.

 

Not trying to instigate..but your post contradicts a post from a few spots above..
Completely opposite.

"Now, your car being a 98. You sure it has a M119? You are supposed to have a M113 ? On a M112/M113 the sensors are plastic lined, and one can replace that sensor in five minutes..
Hope it helps,
Martin"

 

...I plan to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor as a preventative maintenance task.

It seems to me when these sensors fail it could be a consequence of circumstances which would cause any sensor to fail regardless of whether it was original to the car or brand new. I'm guessing that notion is supported by numerous examples on the forums of sensors failing which had been replaced in the not-distant past.

 

Hi Bob! I would appreciate your view - is this a sensible preventative maintenance task to perform or should I just carry the new sensor with me in case the old one goes South at some point in the future? Thanks!

 

One more question if I may: the Pelican parts "how-to" suggests removing the coax cable, is that just to test the resistance of the cable or am I missing something here?

 

I changed mine as a precaution a coupla years ago. As to what someone said about the '98 having an M113, AFAIK every '98 still had the M119.

I don't recall any big issues - the CPS was secured by 2 bolts I **think** they were hex - and disconnect a cable.

I would certainly stay with the factory or Bosch (the same, although I don't know if the factory had any differences; both made by Bosch)

No biggie.

 

I changed mine as a precaution a coupla years ago. As to what someone said about the '98 having an M113, AFAIK every '98 still had the M119.

I carry a scanner, CPS and two coils just in case:grin

 

I replaced the sensor on our MY96. Plastic lined but still seized to the housing. Twist gently to loosen, but snap the head off. Hours of drilling and dental picking to get the guts out. Probably not a problem for the OP in Houston.

Cheers, Phendriks

 

my two cents: That sensor is not something that wears. It has no moving parts, and I believe, electronically, it is a very simple passive device. if it fails it fails, but I don't think its age or usage would be a factor. Perhaps the existing one is never likely to fail because it has proven itself for twenty years, whereas a new one might fail tomorrow.

 

You are absolutely right! I have a 1992 r129...I needed to change the crank position sensor due to a no start condition..i looked at every site I could find ..you tube.. pelican parts etc.. and talked with my Mercedes guy. this looked like something I could do...so I replaced the camshaft sensor too..that went great.. too easy.. then I started the crank sensor.....OMG.. everything went smooth until I went to pull out the sensor. it wouldn't budge..it felt like I could turn it...so I turned it and started to pull it out ..harder..harder HARDER!..until BAM! it broke off inside the bell housing!!I fell to my knees sobbing, because I knew I was in deep trouble now...In my panic I called my Mercedes guy, he told me to try to get a Screw started into the sensor in the housing..once it was seated into the sensor, use pliers to pull out the sensor..Sounded reasonable,and it was something I had thought to do,so with my guy's opinion and coaching I did just that.....and it worked... sorta..I ended up pulling out the "Guts" of the sensor..leaving the metal casing behind in the housing! One more call. he tells me to drill a pilot hole into the bottom of the metal casing, and start a screw into it and grab it again and pull it out...I tried that. I did manage to get the scew in and pull on it but no force I could apply would budge it !!.. I tried for 3 days..in frustration I gave up..defeated..I called him back..he said for $1100 he would drop the transmission, and replace the sensor...my car is still sitting in my garage.

 

he said for $1100 he would drop the transmission, and replace the sensor...

I'll guess the time guide to remove and replace the tranny is about 8 hours. A highly-competent independent shop local to me charges $75/hr., so hypothetically he would fix your car for c. $750.

I would look for a better quote on the repair.

 

squirt in some "areo kroil" the best rust buster I've ever used. let it soak overnight and see if you can pull it out.

 

If I was in that situation, I would indeed try that first, even if soaking for couple of days, then, I would try possibly a "screw extractor"... Good luck!

Regards,
D

 

So, I have decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor on my ‘92 500SL this Spring. I am anticipating that the head of the sensor may (will probably) snap off in the process, so I am planning for this now just in case.

I carry a selection of new/used spares in a roadside kit in the trunk, just in case a part goes south on me on a long journey. I’ve got a spare EZL, MAS, EHA, CPS, OVP, AFS pot, distributor caps + rotors, coil, poly v, belt tensioner, alternator regulator/bush kit etc; short of a support truck :grin

Given the reports of these crankshaft sensors snapping during removal, I figure that I would rather replace the sensor in my garage instead of on the open road.

So, the things I will have on stand by if I have to pull the sensor casing out: -
- dowel puller (with selection of adapters. In this case 8mm);
- 100mm x 4mm shank dia general purpose screw;
- 25mm long, 8mm dia x 1.5mm thick alum/steel tube or 6mm dia x 1mm thick (inside dia of tube needs to be big enough so that you can insert the screw);
- electric drill and 4mm drill bit (or to suit screw and tube size I am using);
- penetrating oil;

My method will be: -

1) Soak in penetrating oil 24hrs. Boiling water, then freeze spray. (Shock treatment). Try to wiggle the sensor out in one piece. Old sensor will go in my spare parts kit. New goes in car. If sensor snaps, I will carry on as follows: -
2) Drill pilot hole through end of sensor.
3) Insert screw into alum/steel tube.
4) Screw into sensor so that point side fully engages with steel end of sensor.
5) Dowel puller - Select adapter size to suit tube diameter. In this case 8mm. Place puller adapter over tube and tighten. Follow instructions with puller kit. Tightening the nut on the outer collar pulls on the 8mm tube, which bears against the head of the screw, which should extract the sensor housing.

Notes: - Make sure that the inside diameter of the outer collar of the puller kit is larger than the diameter of the sensor.

When drilling any pilot holes I normally try to make the pilot hole slightly smaller than screw. But with the guts still in the sensor there will be too much resistance to get sufficient embedment, resulting in just extracting the guts and leaving the sensor casing behind, so I will initially select a pilot drill size to match screw shank diameter I am using.

It will be trial and error, so if the guts come out, I will then select a slightly larger screw to ensure a tighter purchase between the screw thread and sensor casing and pull again.

You get the idea.

I doubt that a screw extractor would work satisfactorily. A screw extractor is tapered and would push outwards on the sensor casing, increasing the binding resistance between the sensor casing and transmission bell housing, and possibly also causing damage to the housing.

 

It will be trial and error, so if the guts come out, I will then select a slightly larger screw to ensure a tighter purchase between the screw thread and sensor casing and pull again.

You get the idea.

I doubt that a screw extractor would work satisfactorily. A screw extractor is tapered and would push outwards on the sensor casing, increasing the binding resistance between the sensor casing and transmission bell housing, and possibly also causing damage to the housing.

Very good plan I'm sure you're gonna get it out.