Hello
Haven't been active here for quite sometime. Well I've been reading a lot of threads last night regarding this topic. However, I decided on making a new thread here as i feel I don't exactly share the same problems as the rest. This is going to be quite a long read, so please bear with me.
The Problem
My throttle pedal has some dead-space in the last third or quarter when depressed in gear. There is no play whatsoever in the first quarter of pedal travel. However, when you reach about three quarters of pedal travel, you start to feel some kind of spring resistance and dead space. This results in the last quarter of pedal travel being useless and not delivering any extra power when needed.
I've adjusted the throttle pedal linkages as per the WIS pdf instructions which I will explain below further. From what I understand, when you depress the gas pedal to a point where you start feeling resistance, that's the point for the transmission to shift down a gear and give you further power as needed. This doesn't always happen, sometimes i find myself stuck in 3rd gear at 60KMH and the only way to get it moving is to activate the kickdown by going full throttle. This doesn't make sense as I don't want to depress it to full throttle every time I need some moderate acceleration.
I tried adjusting the bowden cable and I'm not a 100% sure that I'm doing this right, but when I screw it clockwise it tightens the transmission and shifts too early. If i screw it counter-clockwise it shifts later and downshifts better but not as much as I want it to. I screw it counter-clockwise to a point where the yellow nut is actually completely lose, and if you pull on it, it comes out from the housing with no resistance. This doesn't work and puts a much heavier resistance point on the pedal, even when in neutral.
The throttle pedal adjustment procedures are quite straight-forward, you unscrew nut no.29 which is your black throttle nut until the spring is resting free of tension. You remove linkage no21 and 20 and start adjusting those to remove any slack and then you switch on ignition and let the car learn the rest and full throttle positions of the pedal. The first time you teach the car the full throttle position, it causes linkage no.21 to move slowly into full throttle position and you hear an audible clicking sound once it is in position. You connect the linkages and with the ignition on, you depress the accelerator from the cabin and make sure the throttle lever rests against the full throttle stop position. Adjust it if necessary and then turn the engine over and finally adjust the nut below the dashboard above the gas pedal to lower idle if necessary.
Now this last nut controls how stiff or soft the pedal is, too stiff and you get high idle and dead travel space in the first quarter, too soft and you get lower idle and dead space either center or last quarter of pedal travel. Finding the sweet spot isn't as easy as it sounds.
Once you do find it, you proceed to adjust the bowden cable, by pulling on the inner cable to make sure there is no slack while turning nut no.15 and arrow no.17 on the center alignment point. Right???
After doing all of that, I still end up with the above problems.
One more thing, if I try to engage the kickdown at anything above 25-30 KMH I only get 2nd gear not first. I end up shifting manually into first, If i kickdown at approximately 20KMH I get first gear. This isn't right, specially that if i do the same at anything from 80 to around 110KMH I go immediately into 2nd gear and the car surges forwards with such beautiful force
The max shift points for this tranny are
1st into 2nd = 75 KMH
2nd into 3rd = 120 KMH
3rd into 4th = 200 KMH
Why doesn't downshift into 2nd even when you are only 10 KMH from redline but doesn't do the same, or even comes close to doing that for 1st gear.
I have an ABS/ASR light that only comes on when rolling and not when starting the car up. However, if i start the car up and floor it on the first few meters causing wheels spin, The ASR/ABS light never come on again and everything works fine. Except that at slow speeds, like slowing down for a speed hump you feel some vibrations in the brake pedal as ABS is active, even though it clearly isn't.
Another trick is shutting off the engine while in motion on neutral and restarting while in motion. This causes the lights not to never come on again. I understand this is probably a front ABS sensor issue.
Might be irrelevant to this topic but I just wanted to make it known to you guys...every little detail helps.
I hope someone here can help, as all local so called mechanics here don't know anything about diagnosing these older cars, specially anything pre-OBDII like mine. And the dealership wants me to pay a fortune for them to basically diagnose literally everything in the car as they have no history of this vehicle ever being registered in their system and want to make sure there are no tampering or any kind of Jerry-rigging from local mechanics before they even address the problem at hand.
So please help me out if you can
Thanks guys
Haven't been active here for quite sometime. Well I've been reading a lot of threads last night regarding this topic. However, I decided on making a new thread here as i feel I don't exactly share the same problems as the rest. This is going to be quite a long read, so please bear with me.
The Problem
My throttle pedal has some dead-space in the last third or quarter when depressed in gear. There is no play whatsoever in the first quarter of pedal travel. However, when you reach about three quarters of pedal travel, you start to feel some kind of spring resistance and dead space. This results in the last quarter of pedal travel being useless and not delivering any extra power when needed.
I've adjusted the throttle pedal linkages as per the WIS pdf instructions which I will explain below further. From what I understand, when you depress the gas pedal to a point where you start feeling resistance, that's the point for the transmission to shift down a gear and give you further power as needed. This doesn't always happen, sometimes i find myself stuck in 3rd gear at 60KMH and the only way to get it moving is to activate the kickdown by going full throttle. This doesn't make sense as I don't want to depress it to full throttle every time I need some moderate acceleration.
I tried adjusting the bowden cable and I'm not a 100% sure that I'm doing this right, but when I screw it clockwise it tightens the transmission and shifts too early. If i screw it counter-clockwise it shifts later and downshifts better but not as much as I want it to. I screw it counter-clockwise to a point where the yellow nut is actually completely lose, and if you pull on it, it comes out from the housing with no resistance. This doesn't work and puts a much heavier resistance point on the pedal, even when in neutral.
The throttle pedal adjustment procedures are quite straight-forward, you unscrew nut no.29 which is your black throttle nut until the spring is resting free of tension. You remove linkage no21 and 20 and start adjusting those to remove any slack and then you switch on ignition and let the car learn the rest and full throttle positions of the pedal. The first time you teach the car the full throttle position, it causes linkage no.21 to move slowly into full throttle position and you hear an audible clicking sound once it is in position. You connect the linkages and with the ignition on, you depress the accelerator from the cabin and make sure the throttle lever rests against the full throttle stop position. Adjust it if necessary and then turn the engine over and finally adjust the nut below the dashboard above the gas pedal to lower idle if necessary.
Now this last nut controls how stiff or soft the pedal is, too stiff and you get high idle and dead travel space in the first quarter, too soft and you get lower idle and dead space either center or last quarter of pedal travel. Finding the sweet spot isn't as easy as it sounds.
Once you do find it, you proceed to adjust the bowden cable, by pulling on the inner cable to make sure there is no slack while turning nut no.15 and arrow no.17 on the center alignment point. Right???
After doing all of that, I still end up with the above problems.
One more thing, if I try to engage the kickdown at anything above 25-30 KMH I only get 2nd gear not first. I end up shifting manually into first, If i kickdown at approximately 20KMH I get first gear. This isn't right, specially that if i do the same at anything from 80 to around 110KMH I go immediately into 2nd gear and the car surges forwards with such beautiful force
The max shift points for this tranny are
1st into 2nd = 75 KMH
2nd into 3rd = 120 KMH
3rd into 4th = 200 KMH
Why doesn't downshift into 2nd even when you are only 10 KMH from redline but doesn't do the same, or even comes close to doing that for 1st gear.
I have an ABS/ASR light that only comes on when rolling and not when starting the car up. However, if i start the car up and floor it on the first few meters causing wheels spin, The ASR/ABS light never come on again and everything works fine. Except that at slow speeds, like slowing down for a speed hump you feel some vibrations in the brake pedal as ABS is active, even though it clearly isn't.
Another trick is shutting off the engine while in motion on neutral and restarting while in motion. This causes the lights not to never come on again. I understand this is probably a front ABS sensor issue.
Might be irrelevant to this topic but I just wanted to make it known to you guys...every little detail helps.
I hope someone here can help, as all local so called mechanics here don't know anything about diagnosing these older cars, specially anything pre-OBDII like mine. And the dealership wants me to pay a fortune for them to basically diagnose literally everything in the car as they have no history of this vehicle ever being registered in their system and want to make sure there are no tampering or any kind of Jerry-rigging from local mechanics before they even address the problem at hand.
So please help me out if you can
Thanks guys
