After using some different search terms, I found this thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1356681-po410-code-secondary-air-injection-system.html

Which pretty much covers it. Primarily a warm up device, which obviously wasn't needed in hot japan, and I can probably live without here on the coast.

Still, if anyone can speak to how I might tell if the removal was done properly, or can be done without having codes thrown constantly, please speak up!

 

Hey, it's good you brought up this topic. The electronic motor, is the thing that pumps air into your exhaust system, to complete the burning process to get your cat's warmed up quicker. It is connected with your EGR valves. EGR valves return the exhaust fumes for that double burne back into your manifold, so the care is more greener. So unless you are worried that green peace might come nocking on your front door, I wouldn't worry about it too much. It's actually a tuning mod, that is well practiced. considering you are talking about an e55 i suppose the cats have been removed too?together with this system?

I am planing to get this removed aswell, as the egr system clogs up your intake manifold which causes the shakes on idle. The only way to go about it is to remove your intake manifold and clean it up, but its not an easy process.

 

, as the egr system clogs up your intake manifold which causes the shakes on idle. The only way to go about it is to remove your intake manifold and clean it up, but its not an easy process.

It is the other way around here in the USA(Or in the Union of California).

WHEN the EGR clogs-up the engine runs more true(With more H.P :nerd) as the exhaust gases are not mixing with the intake air. Those of you driving the W124's and the 96 E320 with M140 the EGR is vacuum controlled, and one can stick a "BB" in the vacuum line at the egr to keep the EGR from opening, and letting the exhaust in :devil:devil. Ahhhh, common practice in the 70's and 80's on the domestic cars, so the ideal situation is to have those EGR ports(or pipe) plugged. :grin

Martin

 

I think the Japanese are smart enough to understand that the inefficiencies, cost and emissions caused by manufacturing, maintaining and driving around the secondary air injection system are more that this system abates.

 

Sorry to chime in, Japanese emission standards are much lower than American and Canadian. So any Japanese spec car will fly through Canadian test. There emissions are tested at about 60kph thus the engines are much colder. Where Jspecs cars may fail is there lack of several converters. But in Canada that's not a problem.


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You are right about the no egr = more power ) But they do say it becomes less fuel efficient.. My clk is 2002, and it never had a manifold cleaned so planing on doing a manifold clean this week, will try to post some pics, of what is inside that thing. Obvious cause is the return of the exhaust gases, i seem to have lost power, throttle response, and getting the shakes on idle. I really want to get rid of the whole egr system as, it only cloggs up the manifold and engine. Theres a few threads on how the guys tackle this issue, with detailed pictures, on removing and cleaning the manifold, but it seems no one actually decided to remove the whole thing. I think for older cars its a must to remove the system and chuck it in a waste bucket, as all sorts of issues can arise from the exhaust gases pumping in to manifold... So wish me luck with it guys will try to update as I progress with the cleaning and removal.

 

I'd like to permanently delete the air pump since mine failed, but does anybody know if it's possible to avoid a check engine light when the pump isn't installed? If not, I'll have to replace the pump. Thanks in advance!

 

It is much cheaper to replace the air pump, if that is the problem. There is no easy way to block the air injection test to take place or fool the detection system.

 

Thank you Mrboca, I'll go ahead and replace it. Have a great day.

 

It’s not difficult to delete the egr on these m113 engines, the hardest part is making custom block off plates if you are not able to find any online . I made mine with a $15 angle grinder

from there you will just install a resistor into the old harness plug for the egr valve. My egr valve measured 31ohms or so. I’m currently running a 50ohm 10watt ceramic resistor with no check engine lights, these resistors are easy to find

 

It’s not difficult to delete the egr on these m113 engines, the hardest part is making custom block off plates if you are not able to find any online . I made mine with a $15 angle grinder

from there you will just install a resistor into the old harness plug for the egr valve. My egr valve measured 31ohms or so. I’m currently running a 50ohm 10watt ceramic resistor with no check engine lights, these resistors are easy to find

travis,

Can you post some photos and a short diy on this ?
I think this would be helpful for the many w210 members here.

 

Yeah, I would be interested in finding out how you have done. Hope by now, people have better understanding of what the EGR system is and what secondary air injection system is, and how they are not related.

 

Yeeeeeeeah I highly doubt that. People are still clinging to the notion that catalyst converters are choking the engine and going straight pipes to "free" up hp and torque is the way to go. Unfortunately this isn't the 60's era anymore. If people can learn that having cats is actually good for the engine, then maybe we can get to the secondary air and EGR.

Buddy of mine runs a muffler shop, and he's making bank on those people. They come in, request straight pipes, he cuts the cat and installs straight pipes. He keeps the cats, stocks them on the shelf. After couple months, they come back on a tow truck with a $2500 fix-it ticket, he reinstalls the original cats and charges them for both part and labor, then the tow truck has to tow to a BAR referee to inspect that repairs were done before vehicle is allowed back on the road again.

Shit is wack. 🤣 🤣 🤣

 

An EGR valve for our cars costs about $100. If an EGR code is generated , and it is due to an EGR valve, it makes much more sense to replace it and have an operational EGR system. Deleting and EGR valve and replacing it with a dummy load resistor, will fool the Engine Computer (but not for long, as the EGR test involves much more than the EGR solenoid current testing). What will happen then ? The ECU will open the throttle more to compensate for the inert EGR gasses (which are NOT there, as the EGR port is closed off), which will then upset the Air to fuel ratio as the engine will start running lean, . which in turn, affects the fuel efficiency. In addition, as the inert gasses from the exhaust introduced by the EGR system, at cruising speeds will lower the peak combustion chamber temperatures, meaning , less energy loss to heat, better energy conversion, and more important, less wear to the engine in the long run. So, I have no idea why the owners want to delete the EGR system, rather than fixing it.

 

Or remove it if it’s working. It appeals to the louder = faster crowd.

I thought it’s illegal to resell used cats. I’ve bought from private party but that would be risky for a licensed muffler shop considering the prevalence of cat theft.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles

 

I've just gotten my E55T from Japan. It's still in the shop getting new tires, inspection, etc so I haven't even driven it yet. I stopped by to look it over, check condition of filters etc.

When I pulled off the front engine cover, I noticed a big empty space where something belonged, at the top front of the engine. Research leads me to believe this is the air pump.

It's not clear to me:

1) what this does. It shows up on parts diagrams under emissions components, so I assume it's something to do with EGR?
2) Why it was removed, or if it was ever there (market specific?)
3) what the consequence of not having it.

Can anyone help clear this up? I hope it's not related to the intake flaps, or will lead to other issues. I've only had the car idling, and there seems to be the odd slight miss, which I attribute to old plugs, wires, coils etc (new on the way). That being said, I've never owned an M113 car to compare to, only M119.

Hey guys, pls correct me if I am mistaken but not long after buying our 2002 E320 I was looking at the online parts catalog and saw a notation pertaining to some parts pertaining to the secondary air system/air pump and evaporative emission system/fuel tank vent. The notation, as I recall was "US ONLY" I noted that in case I ever considered deleting either of those systems. BTW, while helping a friend debug his 1998 ML320 recently, all but one of his problems were related to these two systems. I would suspect the Engine Control module is programmed to work with these systems on the US cars, ie they will set a DTC if the systems are not present. Anyone wanting to delete them would need to deal with that.

As far as I could tell, the EGR is "omnipresent" so our friends in other countries must deal with it if and when.... I have 5 grandkids driving. Their various makes of cars have more bugs related to evap, secondary air, and EGR than all other causes combined. All thanks to the EPA geniuses who gifted us with those three money wasting sytems that don't eliminate a dime's worth of CO2 or CO.

 

Evap controls emissions that don’t go out the tailpipe so smog checks can’t measure.

EGR controls NOx emissions.

When they work anyway.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles

 

The Japanese emissions standards changed since then (2002) and they are nearly as stringent as the USA standards. The OP's car does not have the SAI pump, switchover valve, and the combi valves to the exhaust manifold, and the fuse / relay module does not even have the SAI pump relay and 40 amp fuse. Th ECU will not do the tests required for the SAI, so no faults will be posted. This however will be apparent in the emissions readiness reading , as it will show that the SAI test is "not available".

Regarding EGR, some cars have better implementations than others, or when they fail, they are relatively easier to fix , cheaper to replace.

 

The Japanese emissions standards changed since then (2002) and they are nearly as stringent as the USA standards. The OP's car does not have the SAI pump, switchover valve, and the combi valves to the exhaust manifold, and the fuse / relay module does not even have the SAI pump relay and 40 amp fuse. Th ECU will not do the tests required for the SAI, so no faults will be posted. This however will be apparent in the emissions readiness reading , as it will show that the SAI test is "not available".

Regarding EGR, some cars have better implementations than others, or when they fail, they are relatively easier to fix , cheaper to replace.

Thank you for putting it fewer words - we happen to live in a county with annual emission test required before registration renewal. We can pass with one readiness monitor N/A. That summary of all the parts in just the SAI system shows the complexity added to the vehicle just to blow some air through the cats during startup and early warmup. My experience with MBZ thus far is they do seem to use better components than most and appear to give more thought to the durability of these systems.

 

The SAI runs 90 seconds after a cold start. An then some seconds test , on per drive cycle. The problem with the SAI is more often with the plugged air passages between the exhaust manifold and the combi valves, and to clean them is problematic.