You'll get better input in the R230 forum. I'll slip it over there.

 

Yes, there are serious reliability problems with a hydraulic suspension system, called ABC. 2003 happens to have it worst due to inadequate filter design. Don't ever think about buying a car like that without full suspension inspection, called rodeo. It can cost thousands of systems for a comprehensive overhaul once it starts cascade failing. Don't ever think about buying 'fixer-upper' if the car has suspension-related codes, leaking struts or sits unevenly when parked.

Before you even pay for rodeo, cycle car 10 times up and down and have someone watch from the outside. If it hesitates, or settles unevenly - walk away.

 

cycle car 10 times up and down and have someone watch from the outside. If it hesitates, or settles unevenly - walk away.

That's not even a proper test for the ABC, if you heat up the system and abuse ABC like that, probably a brand new car, straight from the factory, will fail, or blow up its pump...

Keep in mind that rodeo (one corner at a time) is one thing, and raising the entire 2 tons of the car at once for 20 times is another...

I bet you cant do 20 pushups, and you want a 2 tons car to do it with a pump smaller than your palm, and not wear the system???

c'mon man...

 

First of all, the future repair costs are already factored into the blue book price. Name any other luxury, 300hp+, hard top convertible with as good as styling as a R230 for under $20K? The closest you will find is a 2009 BMW Z4 sDrive35i in the upper 20's / low 30's. And I test drove one(rough ride, lots of engine noise and shifting drama), and it is not anywhere the joy to drive as the R230. Same goes for an Audi TT (rag top, cheap interior, less power, rough ride). Maybe a Porsche Boxter? It might be fun around corners but not pleasant for longer drives. And all the these high-end roadster options are another $5-10K more expensive to boot.

Quite frankly, nothing else compares to the R230, and it is also the least expensive due to fears about ABC.

Like SinSL said, check out the ABC system thoroughly. Also make sure none of the 4 struts sag overnight, and put the car on a rack and remove the under-panels and make sure no ABC fluid leaks exist.

After buying it, flush the ABC fluid and put in a new filter.

Then enjoy the car knowing you are playing with "winnings" at the repair poker table. Other people's fears can be your opportunity when you are well informed.

 

What i would suggest is to avoid the first year of the model if possible.

If the car was well maintained then there will not be any problems, but overall the first year is known for not being fully tested for durability.
There are always lots of minor things that get fixed when the next year update comes out. So what i did is i looked around for a 04+ model.
Less chances you will have to deal with system issues.

But overall it's a awesome car. Bought one and enjoy it every time i get it out of the garage.
Don't even think to compare it to the SLK model, or Z series, or 6 series, etc. Truly one of a kind car made to perfection! (of course if taken care of ^_^ )

 

Given the mileage, the wear related items are probably fine or normal, but the age related will need to be addressed. This is a 12-13 year old car now.

Service history is your friend. Were the brakes bled every other year; has the ABC system ever been flushed; what about oil changes for motor and trans; have the batteries been replaced recently (I'm almost certain they are not original)? I consider these age related items, not mileage.

If the car has a clean history, and you can get the seller to take care of the age related maintenance, or show records of them, then the car is as good as any other car.

Get an experienced mechanic to look at it, check for maintenance records, and then drive it like you stole it! The drive train is very tough to break!

 

All the points made previously are valid. Regardless of the year this vehicle is expensive to maintain. The maintenance must be done religiously or you will have even more repair issues. Expect to shell out 2k to 2.5 k on average per year to maintain the car. You will always have some repairs once you exceed 50K miles. All the little problems that pop up like the shifter, trunk pull down, motor mounts, CD changer, some ABC repairs, etc.. To minimize cost find a good independent shop, read up on this forum to do the extra maintenance work, and stay away from the dealer. With this car you can either buy a newer model, buy an extended warrenty or buy an older model and pay for any necessary repairs, so you pay up front or on the back end, your choice. The car is a joy to drive, it's almost intoxicating, just budjet for the costs and expect them and you'll be fine. My choice would be to buy a 2007 or newer, you'll get eighty more horsepower in the base model and some updates. I'd would do that myself, but I just don't want to sort out another SL to get it into shape, although now much more knowledgeable and experienced, thanks to the great help on this forum.

 

Well I'd never buy a 2nd hand car reading some of the above. I'd go in with your eyes open and buy the car with the best maintenance record you can find. Have a war chest in case of issues and enjoy driving a lovely car that rides beautifully, handles like a true GT and has the benefit of a hardtop folding roof. I love mine and I would imagine the other owners on here do too.

 

I love mine and I would imagine the other owners on here do too.

Certainly! only those that dont own one dis the model the most...

 

Gratuitous shot....

 

^^^ One can only imagine how much scrubbing and polishing went into this ^^^

 

Not much ;-)

R230 SL500 Spring Clean - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

 

Mine at the end of last winter, with Boston snow in the background

 

Is that the F1 front bumper?

 

Have you had a bad experience with one SinSL?