Remember that if one of those flap pieces breaks off and gets sucked into the engine, you could end up with catastrophic failure. $700 for a new manifold is much better than a new engine.

 

I hear ya. As far as I know it has never happened and want to see if perhaps it's just some carbon buildup. I would hate to think the lifespan of this major component is only 60K miles and we would need to proactively replace this every 60K miles.

 

I have a 2007 CLK 350. I had similar symptoms and replaced the manifold at about 90k klms. To me it was relatively cheap insurance going forward and a repair all at once. It is a straightforward DIY if you have a reasonable amount of experience and tools.

 

Appreciate the input. Seems odd it would go bad so soon. I did look at some DIY videos not sure I'm comfortable taking it on with my current lack of knowledge with the engine. I just learned where the MAF is LoL

I need to ask the previous owner if it happened before and then call my local mechanic for a quote.

 

Update: I've taken two trips since this first happened and the MIL/CEL has not come on. I did rescan the car today and the 0522 intake flap code was back. No mis-fires codes like last time. I also checked the intake manifold 'linkages' that are prone to breaking and they seemed ok. Moved freely. Probably not related but this is what the air filter compartments looked like. I got two new air filters.

 

Just an FYI, manifold flap issues almost never cause misfires. There two sets of flaps in the manifold: runner flaps and swirl flaps. The runner flaps change the airflow between the shorter and longer pathway in the manifold. The longer pathway is used when more torque is needed, the shorter pathway is used at steady speeds for better efficiency. If the runner flaps are not operating, then they end up in the default position, which I believe it the short path but I could be wrong about that. In either case, this won't cause a misfire. The swirl or "tumble" flaps are at the bottom of the manifold, right before the air enters the head. These flaps are used to create a specific turbulent airflow pattern (or swirl) based on power demands. Again, if these are not operating, it just means the airflow is not following the best pattern. Since these flaps all work in unison, the same for all cylinders, a problem with them won't cause misfires on just one or two cylinders. In fact, problems are rarely noticed except for the MIL being illuminated.

 

That's a huge FYI rudeney. The only reason this issue got my attention is because the MIL went on and the car was idling extremely rough. You're saying the misfires and 0522 code are not related. The car had been sitting a lot due to the winter weather we have had in the Northeast. Perhaps it was just a patch of bad gas. I did add a can of Techron into the fuel.

Any suggestions to permanently fix the 0522 issue?

 

The "official" repair is to replace the manifold. This is because the plastic actuator often breaks because the flaps "drag" due to oil sludge buildup inside the manifold (from the PCV system). Like I said, you don't want chips of plastic sucked into the combustion chamber. The alternative would be to remove the manifold and replace the broken plastic actuator arm with a metal one. You can buy one on eBay for $15, plus you need a new manifold gasket. I think there are sellers offering an entire "kit" that includes a metal version of that lever, other levers in metal, plus the gasket. It's much less expensive than a $600+ manifold.

 

The MIL came back on and there is slew of new codes in addition to the 0522. 2096, 0750 2092 0746 2190 0506 0172
They seem to be all ignition related.

Rudeney from what I can see the plastic actuator arms seem to be intact. If that's the case would you agree the kit would not solve the problem. I'm thinking the flaps might be sticking although they seemed to move pretty freely manually.

I called my local mechanic for a quote. He asked me to bring it in to make sure that's the problem but did say it's minimum 3hours of labor.

 

This could be an electrical (wiring) problem with all of those errors.

 

I got a better code reader. The major error code is P2006. Open circuit sensor lines/ tumble flap shafts stick in the non actuated position.

I'm bringing it to the shop to help me determine if I should go the kit or total replacement route. Any recommendation for where to source the kit if we go down that path. I see lots of options online.

Thanks

 

The large vacuum diaphragm in the center actuates the tumble flaps. When you move its rod up and down, the boomerang-shaped level in the middle should move both tumble flap levers (the black levers on either side of the manifold - you have the left-bank one circled in red). If all of that is working, then you might want to check the diaphragm by connecting a vacuum source to make sure it is operating. Also, there is a sensor on the back of the manifold that reports the position of the tumble flaps - it need to be checked.

 

The black levers on either side definitely moved so none of those connections are broken. Can I check the diaphragm and sensor somehow or do I need special equipment.

Thanks for your help rudeney.

 

Unplug the vacuum hose and manually apply a vacuum to test the diaphragm. If it actuates the center lever and both outer lever, then the diaphragm and actuators are good and you need to test the sensors. There are two of them, on the back corners of the manifold, facing downward. You may need to remove the ECU to access them. Unplug them and attach an ohm meter. I am not certain, but I believe they will produce an open circuit when the flaps are not actuated, and a continuous circuit when actuated (nothing in between). If nothing registers on one or both sensors, then you can remove them and look through the holes to see if the flap shaft is moving. If one or both are not moving, then you need a new manifold. You can also swap the sensors and test to see if it's the same sensor or same flap shaft.

Another possibility is that the flaps are "dragging" so that they move, but not fully. You can test that by manually moving the two outboard actuator levers on the front of the manifold to see if you can force them to move further than the vacuum-operated lever will. Basically, if it's not a problem with a bad sensor or the diaphragm or actuator levers on the front, then you need a new manifold.

Also, please take a moment to visit your forum user's control panel. Go into "Account Settings", then "Account Details". Fill in the information for your "Location" (at least state/country), and your "Vehicle Details" (model and year). I know you may have mentioned some of this in your initial post, but having it in your profile, it will appear on all of your posts in the left pane, below your name and avatar photo. This information will be of great assistance to others when trying to help you. If you have more cars than will show there, then add them to your "Signature".

 

Thanks. I updated my profile. Unfortunately I don't have tools to create a vacuum and test that center diaphragm.

Unplug the vacuum hose and manually apply a vacuum to test the diaphragm. If it actuates the center lever and both outer lever, then the diaphragm and actuators are good and you need to test the sensors. There are two of them, on the back corners of the manifold, facing downward. You may need to remove the ECU to access them. Unplug them and attach an ohm meter. I am not certain, but I believe they will produce an open circuit when the flaps are not actuated, and a continuous circuit when actuated (nothing in between). If nothing registers on one or both sensors, then you can remove them and look through the holes to see if the flap shaft is moving. If one or both are not moving, then you need a new manifold. You can also swap the sensors and test to see if it's the same sensor or same flap shaft.

Another possibility is that the flaps are "dragging" so that they move, but not fully. You can test that by manually moving the two outboard actuator levers on the front of the manifold to see if you can force them to move further than the vacuum-operated lever will. Basically, if it's not a problem with a bad sensor or the diaphragm or actuator levers on the front, then you need a new manifold.

Also, please take a moment to visit your forum user's control panel. Go into "Account Settings", then "Account Details". Fill in the information for your "Location" (at least state/country), and your "Vehicle Details" (model and year). I know you may have mentioned some of this in your initial post, but having it in your profile, it will appear on all of your posts in the left pane, below your name and avatar photo. This information will be of great assistance to others when trying to help you. If you have more cars than will show there, then add them to your "Signature".

 

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive handheld vacuum pump:

Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit

Amazing deals on this Brake Bleeder And Vacuum Pump Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Even before testing vacuum, you can manually operate the lever and test the sensors with an ohmmeter (and if you don't have one of those, Harbor Freight sells cheap ohmmeters, too!).

 

I decided to get it fixed the MB recommended way. My Indy let me buy my own parts given the possible frequency of the issue. I got one with a lifetime warranty from FCP Euro for ~700 (gaskets included). They charged me 3hrs of labor. So the whole thing cost just over $1000.

I have the original manifold and I took a brief look at it and there is nothing visibly broken on it. The levers all move and the flaps look intact with no broken plastic pieces. I'll post some pictures when I get the chance.

 

That's not bad. I'd say $300 is a fair price for that work. I'd like to see the ohmmeter readings on the sensors when you get time to play with the old one.

 

I have not had a chance to play with the old manifold but I hooked up my new Icarsoft MBII code reader to the car to check on any codes after the repair and look at what I stumbled across. It's under Data Stream Further Actual values 1. Could have come in handy to compare.

 

So here is a video inspection of my 'damaged' intake manifold.

 

Waiting to see what you find...a problem with the sensors or the diaphragm...

 

Yomoma604 & Rudeney i have a 2007 E350 and received a P2006 actuator issue.

Note: I currently had the same issue until removed the Intake Manifold; it was a bad actuator, so I replaced it with a new non plastic alumni one (issue resolved) at least I thought.

I cleaned the old intake manifold up really well replaced hoses etc <BUT> lol as soon as I reinstalled the Intake Manifold, I then received the code 0522, 0407and 1078 crazy right. So, I was curious and cleaned the EGR's replaced Air Filters, Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor P/N {BOSCH BS0261230189} located up front of the engine that connects to one of hoses off the Intake Manifold and the AIR / SMOG Pump Check Valve P/N {PIERBURG HL 7.02256.37.0} part of the hose connection to the Intake Manifold up front of the engine on the left side just above my alternator which I also replace the brushes on it because I had a battery light on and the battery was good and fully charged.

However, rudeney I'm glad you mentioned the other two sensors on the back of the Intake Manifold because they didn't cross my mind to replace those so being that I'm have the same issue as Yomoma604 I will keep you both posted when I replace one at a time. I think and can be a good possibility it maybe the fix for the 0522 code. All else fells will replace Intake Manifold they are running $300- $600 these days at some places.

Note: Car rides well but may not pass Emissions Inspection.

Other 2 Codes: (Open to any suggestions)
0522 - In...??
0407 - Thinking it can be my Thermostat
1078 - Just not sure as of yet what this could be

 

How did it go?