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Installation of a CPS sensor. With pictures!

188K views 223 replies 102 participants last post by  driver76  
#1 ·
I got the CPS sensor from www.alloemautoparts.com for about $45.00(aka reference sensor / crankshaft posititon sensor / heard of it called a camshaft sensor too). It is a little cheaper on the 97' vs 00'. I don't know why. Let me say first that this fix immediately fixed the cold cranking problem. I can't express in words how happy I am. Anyways, I'll explain where the CPS sensor is. Imagine your standing on the the driver side fender looking down. You are also standing parallel to the driver side front tire. Locate the black plastic cover over the entire engine, at the right end of the plastic engine cover will be the sensor dug deep down. Also, the sensor is located between the engine and the firewall. You will have to remove the engine cover to get to the sensor unless you have extrememly small hands. There is a single torx nut holding it down. There is also a single wire/cable which connects to the sensor, just pull on it vertically to remove it. I wasn't able to remove the nut with my rachet set even though I had the right torx lug because of the angle of the torx nut made it impossible to get any leverage. I instead used a small allen wrech tool which worked perfectly. It fit right in there and twisted easily. The torx nut was not in there tight at all. Makes me wonder if maybe if it was just loose all along so the original sensor wasn't able to "sense" whats going on. Installation is self explantory. Hope this helps someone. Below are pictures!
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#203 · (Edited)
This forum saved me a lot of time and money. My '97 E420 wouldn't start when the engine was hot, no problems when the engine was cold. With the right tools, I was able to change the CPS in under 15 minutes. I first removed the engine cover as described in the sticky. The CPS was in plain view next to the firewall on the driver's side. I pulled off the connector. I then used an E8 magnetic socket (1/4" drive), a 4" wobble extension bar, a long 9" wobble extension bar, and a 1/4" ratchet. With these connected (in the same order), you can very easily position the socket onto the screw without obstructing your view, and remove it. Then reach down and pull off the CPS. Installation is the reverse procedure.

I found that the metal sensor tip of the old CPS was rusted. I guess this prevented the sensor from detecting the magnetic impulses. I could have just scraped off the rust, I suppose, but I replaced it with a brand new Bosch CPS for $30 off eBay.

Hope this helps someone.
 
#204 ·
Thanks!!

Very cool! Thanks for the tips and detailed instructions. You rock!!

This forum saved me a lot of time and money. My '97 E420 wouldn't start when the engine was hot, no problems when the engine was cold. With the right tools, I was able to change the CPS in under 15 minutes. I first removed the engine cover as described in the sticky. The CPS was in plain view next to the firewall on the passenger side. I pulled off the connector. I then used an E8 magnetic socket (1/4" drive), a 4" wobble extension bar, a long 9" wobble extension bar, and a 1/4" ratchet. With these connected (in the same order), you can very easily position the socket onto the screw without obstructing your view, and remove it. Then reach down and pull off the CPS. Installation is the reverse procedure.

I found that the metal sensor tip of the old CPS was rusted. I guess this prevented the sensor from detecting the magnetic impulses. I could have just scraped off the rust, I suppose, but I replaced it with a brand new Bosch CPS for $30 off eBay.

Hope this helps someone.
 
#205 ·
I just replaced my cps, but my car still doesn't start. It would run fine until I came to a stop, then would sometimes sputter but always seemed to recover. Today it sputtered as I pulled or of my carpet and died. Starter turns over, getting spark and replaced the cps...thanks by the way for the guidance!

What else might it be? Error codes say fuel trim 170 and 173 and oxygen sensor 150 and 130 ...but I thought that wouldn't prevent the engine to run. any help is greatly appreciated
 
#208 ·
Can anyone give me the OEM part number for a 2001 E320 CPS sensor. Some site state you have to know the engine number. Is that right?
No one can. It is indeed tied to the engine s/n.

That's cast on the deck, near the CPS. And there are those who have said the exact cutoff is not really all that exact.

So instead of looking for the s/n, just reach over a couple of inches and unplug the CPS.

Then look at the connector: one locking clip, or two?

Now you know exactly which sensor you need...right? ;)

Good luck.
 
#215 ·
really?...then you may want to double check your browser/PC for needed
updating or add-ons. the photos are either embedded in the thread or
downloadable as PDF via links. check the CONDENSED STICKY under
"peachparts DIY" for good CPS how-to. if your PC is unable to open a simple
PDF, your updating procedure may be lacking. also, if, e.g. you're using
Microsoft IE, try Firefox or Chrome
 
#216 ·
Beam, see the DIY I posted on locating the sensor. That's the real trick. From there it's just swap it out. (Mine is also in the stickies.)

Good luck.
 
#217 ·
Just replaced on my '99 E320, took less than an hour, thanks to this thread. Subbed out socket, and the 1/4" worked. Did bust up the rear passenger engine cover rubber connector bushing, so need to replace that. But considering that the dealer quoted $153 for the part, and I got the Bosch off Amazon for $43, i'm pretty comfortable replacing that minor bushing...Thanks you guys!!!
 
#218 ·
Replacement CPS failed. Took pictures this time!

I've been having occasional starting troubles on really hot days -- i.e., a whole bunch of times in the past month -- but a week ago, I was "stranded' three times in two days.

At first, I thought that the fuel pump finally died and started taking steps to check the fuel pump. Enough time had passed since the last time I installed the CPS that I had forgotten about it. I did eventually realize that the last time I had "a fuel pump problem", it was the CPS. (See post #97 on this thread.)

This time, I decided to take some pictures to document the procedure. The whole process took about 20 minutes including taking time to take pictures. The longest time spent was trying to position the socket wrench back into place to do the final tightening of the sensor.

More details with pictures here: https://imgur.com/gallery/i8Nqc3k
 
#219 ·
Should I change the CPS since I have to warm my car for 15 minutes before it move when the gas pedal is depressed?

Pin2
 
#220 ·
No. If you had a CPS problem, either the car would crank but not start, or it would stall when the engine is hot or both.

If it is not a transmission issue, I would check the coolant temperature sensor.

Please provide more details, like which one of your cars listed, how the problem occurs, and what happens when you start the car and press the gas pedal in Park and in Drive.
 
#221 ·

Do I need to change the coolant temperature sensor even though the temperature gauge is working in the dash?

Pin2
 
#222 ·
I said to check it, not replace it. If you think it is working (when the engine is cold, it is near the minimum, and rises when the engine warms up to 80 or above), then it should be fine.

You need to provide more information regarding what is going on. Like are there any displays like check engine light, if so what the fault code is, what happens when you press the gas pedal, does the engine rev up but the car does not go anywhere in drive or reverse. Once the engine is warmed up are everything running as they should, no bucking, surging, stalling, lack of power and acceleration etc.
 
#224 ·
Image


Thank you, Franasia, on the 1st page. It worked.

A sliding t-handle 1/4" drive was much easier to get in there with one hand. I had trouble with the larger ratcheting wrench with an e8 socket.

After loosening with the t-handle, I could unscrew the crankshaft sensor bolt by hand.