Aah, that's not too difficult. I talk from experience, my cable was stuck, and instead of replacing it immediately, I went about opening the hood quite a while without it. I have a new one, by the way .

Here's what to do: get the largest and longest flathead screwdriver that you can fit between the grille's louvers. Now, get on your haunches with a flashlight, and shine it up and into the area where the latching mechanism is. You should see the spring actuated mechanism. What you need to do now, is to insert the screwdriver so that it pushes against this spring mechanism (make sure you insert the screwdriver so that it pushes against the flat 'platform', not against the spring coils - as I've shown in the photo), and then with all your might push the screwdriver so that you compress the spring, while at the same time pulling the hood upwards in order to unlatch it.

 

Thanks so much, but I can't (for the life of me) see that. I appreciate the picture, but what angle are you looking of that? can you take the same picture from further away?

 

Of course, you won't be able to see it like that, seeing that your hood is stuck ...

Here's where you should shine the torch and stick the screwdriver into. Sorry, it's a bit chilly outside and I'm still in my jammies. If you'd like, I'll take some more pictures later today.

 

Can’t you just pool the star to open the hood?

 

Unfortunately for safety reasons that latch mechanism spring has a plastic cover that needs to be removed if still virginal. I know, I had one and I already have a new cable waiting to be installed. I had to remove the cover before since it was becoming way too loose.

 

The left hook of my W140 SClass hood is stuck and can't get loose even though the right+center hook already loosen when I pull the inside pin; how can I open the hood; really appreciated; best regards

 

You are in the wrong forum. Might be better to post in the W140 section.

Welcome aboard.

 

H.E.L.P. S.O.S.

 

Yeah, I've ask @ the W140 forum but I thought the W123 guys got some manual solution, like di above solution thread, thanxalot anyway guys
Best Regards @ J

 

Thanks Frans-C, the screwdriver worked like a charm - took me about 2 minutes after I read your instructions. After the 3rd attempt, I could do it within about 10 seconds without a flashlight. As I have a W124 body, the insides look a bit different, but a long screwdriver through the 4th louvre hole down, just left of the centre line worked fine -- if American, I assume this would be just immediately right of the centreline. Now all I need to do is take out the whole cable to replace a bit of plastic that snapped - maybe the screwdriver will do the job for the near future.

 

Ok, I have checked out the forum completely ( I hope!). I have tried various vice grip methods on the cable with no success. The plastic safety cover is still shielding the spring latch area. So what do I do from here? Am I going to have to cut the grill in order to access the latch? Or would that even work?

I have a 1984 300D turbo.

BTW, just bought mine about 7 months ago and I have to say, I have no idea why I never bought one before. Really great car.

 

This post is still working it's magic!

Thanks Frans-C & sheg280,
the screwdriver trick worked great.
Sorry Danadams, I didn't have the plastic in place. However, I did find a link that showed what you are talking about. The mechanic had some ideas for working around it. 85 300D hood release wont open hood, cable moves with no resistance. - JustAnswer
Best Regards,
Jon
PS American 300d (1987), left side of center line, 4th louver down. Woohooo

 

I forgot to reply after several days of trying, it finally came off. I had another person, jiggling, pulling and banging on the hood at the same time.

The first thing I did of course, was pull the plastic cover off!

Glad it went well for you.

 

After a few months of the screwdriver, I made my own modification to replace the plastic bit that had snapped. I took two little aluminum plates, drilled 3 holes in a row. The cable goes through the holes and one end of both plates, the latch through the holes at the other end of the plates, and a bolt with a self locking nut through the holes in the centre of both plates - this has worked like a charm ever since.

 

Post a picture of your fix.