The Engine Camshaft Adjuster Magnet part number 1190510077.
This engine camshaft timing adjuster is part of your car's variable valve timing system (VANOS). VANOS units, solenoids, and oil lines all play a direct part in controlling your car's valve timing. These parts are known to be problematic and temperamental on higher mileage engine's and are common replacement items. Often they leak so be sure to use the recommended sealer per WIS.

With regard to cleaning of the throttle body you are smart to be cautious. My understanding is that perfectly running throttle bodies were screwed up when cleaned because they do not like their linkage disturbed manually from the engine compartment (as shown in your video) with the key in on position. I would leave the key in off position and have someone use the accelerator pedal to operate the butterfly valve don't touch the linkage with your hands this will likely put you in limp home mode.

I have seen throttle bodies cleaned by spraying throttle body cleaner lightly inside the TB and then sprayed onto lint free cloth. Use the cloth to mop up the dirt and carbon so it doesn't all enter the throttle body.

That is my 2 cents. Hope it helps.

Seth

 

The Specified Sealant 001 989 89 20 10, apparently is the EXACT same thing as Loctite 574. The price difference between the Two? Negligible.

Should only require a thin coat.

Seth

 

Your TB looks clean enough to me. The flow of air is not going to be blocked by a little dirt. Spraying crap in there can get where it's not wanted and damage the position sensor. I'd leave it alone. (Youtube dude is a cowboy.)

The oil pressure readings are well in spec, so are the RPM at idle.

The kick-down switch on the floor should line up with the pedal. Press the pedal down with the ignition off, using your hand to make sure it's aligned. When pressed, it should click. When driving and you floor it, the transmission should shift down.

The camshaft advance magnet is harder to test. The car should liven up around the 4000rpm mark if it's working.

Reading the codes can provide diagnostic information about the cam advance and anything else that may be wrong.

 

>I want to clean my throttle body since I am having issues with getting up to speed trying to get on the highway.

A clogged throttle body affects a lot to the idling but I don't think it improves the speed up to get on the highway so much. I would check and find the root cause of it checking others such as the VVT, compressions, the voltage swings at the O2 sensors, ignition timing advancement and others.

 

Is there any of what you mentioned on h as a DIY guide, I wouldn't know what to do to check these things. My engine has been swapped out for one that is 80,000 miles roughly. I would think that the stuff you mentioned is ok, but who knows?

 

That is correct. The throttle body on non ASR vehicles only controls idle and cruise control function. This cleaning will not help with acceleration issues

 

I want to clean my throttle body since I am having issues with getting up to speed trying to get on the highway.


***FOR THE PICTURE WITH THE CLUSTER
When I am at a stop light the engine oil level goes down to 1. When at cruising (no gas pedal) it goes around 2-2.5 When pressing gas it goes up to 3.
This is normal right?

Also, my RPMs stay at 5 when at a stop, is this normal as well?

I do not quote people because it is annoying to read, but "getting up to speed trying to get on the highway" - You have not told us anything? You know data-speed, RPM's, incline? passengers? tire pressure, etc...

Oil pressure is normal?

5 you are referring to 500 rpm or 5000 rpm? If it is 500, it is excellent. I would estatic if my V8 idled at 500, but it idles at 700-waste of gas? Strain on transmission torque converter...

I have the same car same year and model, and I ALWAYS have to get on the right! The 97-99 S320 have much better acceleration, and 92-95 have great Acceleration, and a wonderful deceleration. 96 was the mistake year for all Mercedes cars

Martin

 

C'mon man! seriously, you are going to give me a hassle! Be niiice!

I have this ramp by my house that is on eeehhh I would say at 20% incline??? ~ I start my car, drive off stop at a stop sign about 50 feet from the very start of the incline, I would then travel up it and by the time I hit the top I was just barely at about ~45 (Miles Per Hour ).

I notice sometimes that when I start to go above 40 MPH it goes into 3rd gear, which it stays at 3000 RPMs, and the speed crawls above it, ever so slowly (while my foot is flooring the pedal) it almost feels like its not recognizing that I am flooring it but instead at halfway on the pedal. However, when trying to catch it on tape demonstrating all of the elements and variables, for some reason it acts as if there was no such problem! Damn it to hell!

New tires and pressure is good, just me in the car, 3\4 tank of gas, spare is in the back (AKA: trunk)

So I am going to watch it for the next week and make sure it stays that way.

The RPM gauge says 5, and if it was 5000, it would be 50. No real disillusion there. I don't think a car could idle at 5000 RPMs, it seems like it would just die lol

"Oil pressure is normal?" (I don't see what you did there, if you mean that it is normal, and why I am asking; or that you think it is a little off but that it is fine?)

 

Thank you so much for everyone's input, I really enjoy learning all about this, no matter how noob I am to cars!

 

Pulling your chain !!! But you need to be descriptive...

M104 for this car does idle 500, and does it, but after it's warmed up. It idles like it is not running....

What you could be happening is under the intake manifold is a few rubber tee's that have vacuum, and those lines go to two solenoids at the front of the engine, and the lines go over the spark plug cover to the EGR and Airpump solenoid if the EGR line is leaking it be the cause of your unstable idle. Next the EGR can be tested by sucking on the vacuum line with orange there on the passenger side near the exhaust manifold... If you suck on the line, the engine stumbles a bit the EGR is working and not clogged. When you rev the throttle, you should feel a little vacuum on the line. nearly none at idle. If you feel lots of vacuum on that line, then the solenoid driving the egr is leaking and causing your bad idle. Possible it is steeling power from the engine.

PS. I never rarely get over 2500 rpm with my S320. Maybe 3000 once or twice a year. If you are a lead-foot driver, you will pop the head gasket as this is one of the weaker engines. Building those higher combustion chamber pressures does not help...


Martin

 

Martin,

I just keep on learning from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Seth

 

Don't know if most of you clean your throttle bodies in place or remove it from the vehicle but I thought this was a good video for the cleaning.
<<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vu8q46oysw>>

 

This is how I clean mine:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1542031-photo-diy-complete-fuel-system-cleaning.html

 

I had the same issue, turned out the throttle body actuator.