I am preparing to change the fuel filter out on my 2011 ML350 Bluetec. The manual calls for it to be changed out at 20K miles. In searching through the threads I only saw one thread that shows the procedure, but isn't exactly as the 2011 models. Does anyone know the proper procedures for replacing the fuel filter? I don't see a valve on top to release the fuel pressure. Also there are electrical connections on top of the 2011 fuel filter.
millerm77
Fuel Filter Change - 2011 ML350 Bluetec
Yes
No valve for pressure release
Yes.
Just kidding. Couldn't resist.
As for how to do it,
Lift off engine cover
Loosen the rear bolts and remove the front bolts that hold each airbox on. Bolts are E10 External Torx and are the rear ones are hidden. Total 2 per side.
Loosen the 3 hose clamps that hold the large air tube that connects the airboxes to the turbo, and unplug the 2 electrical connectors that plug in to the air flow meters built into the air tube.
Push the air boxes away from the engine, and remove the air tube. Note the breather hose and red seal that plugs into the left side of the air tube. Leave the breather electrical plug connected, but pull out the breather from the tube. Don't worry, it will slide out easily as this is one of the sources of the dreaded oil leak and it will be well lubricated.
You will now see the filter. (If not, this job is not going to be easy for you.)
Use a strong quality pair of pliers or the actual Clic pliers to remove the hose clamps for the 2 fuel lines. Have a rag handy to stop or clean up any residue fuel that leaks or spills. Point the hoses up and secure them in that position. There will be no pressure, just a trickle.
Unplug the water in fuel sensor, loosen the Phillips screw for the sensor and twist to remove from it's bracket.
Down the side of the filter is a hose clamp. Loosen it and slide the filter up and out.
Transfer all parts to the new filter and put the plugs from the new filter in the old one to avoid later spillage.
Reverse procedure, but be careful not to damage any seals or electrical plugs, and make sure you wipe away the "normal" oil that will be sitting in front of the turbo. Make sure the airboxes plug on properly to the air tube before you tighten them.
Also, it is ok to replace the Clic clamps with screw type hose clamps, as you will not be able to find replacement Clic clamps. Just use a quality clamp.
Cycle the ignition a few times to verify no leaks, then crank it up. Idle for a few seconds and verify no issues, shutdown and then replace engine cover.
Have fun. 1 hour tops, being extra careful.:beerchugr:
No valve for pressure release
Yes.
Just kidding. Couldn't resist.
As for how to do it,
Lift off engine cover
Loosen the rear bolts and remove the front bolts that hold each airbox on. Bolts are E10 External Torx and are the rear ones are hidden. Total 2 per side.
Loosen the 3 hose clamps that hold the large air tube that connects the airboxes to the turbo, and unplug the 2 electrical connectors that plug in to the air flow meters built into the air tube.
Push the air boxes away from the engine, and remove the air tube. Note the breather hose and red seal that plugs into the left side of the air tube. Leave the breather electrical plug connected, but pull out the breather from the tube. Don't worry, it will slide out easily as this is one of the sources of the dreaded oil leak and it will be well lubricated.
You will now see the filter. (If not, this job is not going to be easy for you.
)Use a strong quality pair of pliers or the actual Clic pliers to remove the hose clamps for the 2 fuel lines. Have a rag handy to stop or clean up any residue fuel that leaks or spills. Point the hoses up and secure them in that position. There will be no pressure, just a trickle.
Unplug the water in fuel sensor, loosen the Phillips screw for the sensor and twist to remove from it's bracket.
Down the side of the filter is a hose clamp. Loosen it and slide the filter up and out.
Transfer all parts to the new filter and put the plugs from the new filter in the old one to avoid later spillage.
Reverse procedure, but be careful not to damage any seals or electrical plugs, and make sure you wipe away the "normal" oil that will be sitting in front of the turbo. Make sure the airboxes plug on properly to the air tube before you tighten them.
Also, it is ok to replace the Clic clamps with screw type hose clamps, as you will not be able to find replacement Clic clamps. Just use a quality clamp.
Cycle the ignition a few times to verify no leaks, then crank it up. Idle for a few seconds and verify no issues, shutdown and then replace engine cover.
Have fun. 1 hour tops, being extra careful.:beerchugr:
Awesome...just what I was looking for! I may take some photo's of the job and post later. Thanks a million!
You need to look at the maint schedule. Each item has a service number. When you reset you will reset the service along with any other individual items. Check the maint schedule online.
Fuel Filter in Stock
Holy smokes...I was having the most difficult time trying to find a fuel filter for my 2011 ML350 Bluetec. This filter is not available online - even through Mann's website (see attached pictures). I ended up buying it from the dealership and these things are expensive - $140. I can't imagine having to replace this filter every 20K miles. The dealership parts department had a difficulte time trying to locate the correct part. I had to take pictures (attached) of the part inside the engine compartment so we could get the correct part with the electrical plug. I sure hope Mann starts manufacturing more of these - made in Czech Republic.
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Holy smokes...I was having the most difficult time trying to find a fuel filter for my 2011 ML350 Bluetec. This filter is not available online - even through Mann's website (see attached pictures). I ended up buying it from the dealership and these things are expensive - $140. I can't imagine having to replace this filter every 20K miles. The dealership parts department had a difficulte time trying to locate the correct part. I had to take pictures (attached) of the part inside the engine compartment so we could get the correct part with the electrical plug. I sure hope Mann starts manufacturing more of these - made in Czech Republic.
Newer filter pricing
millerm77, it appears you have the newer style filter with the water sensor built in. With mine. the sensor is removable, so as you follow the instructions I gave, ignore the step about removing the water sensor.
Those newer filters are hard to get and very pricey. I call :bs: to MB on that one. There is also a 3 pin and 5 pin (yours based on the price) version.
As a comparison, my 2007 filter is around $40 so much more reasonable to replace every 20K miles.
I would hope that there is some kind of fuel heating element built in there to prevent winter gelling to justify the exorbitant price, or they should extend the service interval to 100K. Regardless, it's still just a filter that cost $140
millerm77, it appears you have the newer style filter with the water sensor built in. With mine. the sensor is removable, so as you follow the instructions I gave, ignore the step about removing the water sensor.
Those newer filters are hard to get and very pricey. I call :bs: to MB on that one. There is also a 3 pin and 5 pin (yours based on the price) version.
As a comparison, my 2007 filter is around $40 so much more reasonable to replace every 20K miles.
I would hope that there is some kind of fuel heating element built in there to prevent winter gelling to justify the exorbitant price, or they should extend the service interval to 100K. Regardless, it's still just a filter that cost $140
Is there any concern with adding the new filter 'dry'?
Should the filter be filled with fuel prior to re-attaching the hoses in order to minimize the air gaps in the system and thus any potential faults?
I typically fill oil filters and thought the same could/would apply for the diesel filter.
Should the filter be filled with fuel prior to re-attaching the hoses in order to minimize the air gaps in the system and thus any potential faults?
I typically fill oil filters and thought the same could/would apply for the diesel filter.
After replacing the fuel filter and air filters, I can't get the rear mounts of the engine cover to fit. Nothing is sticking out back there except for the bridge connecting the air boxes to the turbo intake. It's as flush as it can get.
It seems like there is about half a inch from the rear pegs to the rear mounts of the engine cover.
Do you simply just hammer the engine cover in the back on? Otherwise it simply is attached on the front pegs and mounts and rattles.
It seems like there is about half a inch from the rear pegs to the rear mounts of the engine cover.
Do you simply just hammer the engine cover in the back on? Otherwise it simply is attached on the front pegs and mounts and rattles.
just changed fuel filter on similar car by a mechanic and fuel filter sign comes on. took it back cleared the sensors and the sign still stays on. mechanic changed the filter , ordered one from dealership it was fine for 10 miles and fuel filter sign comes on again. what is the problem? thank you.
While we're resurrecting old threads, let me advocate as strongly as I can that anyone doing one of the diesel filters on top of the engine throw those useless ****ing Clic clamps the hell in the trash and put real hose clamps on instead. I had one come loose after changing my filter and spray diesel all over the engine. No major damage, and no fire, but it was a very good thing it didn't come all the way off and didn't come loose until I was backing into my garage.
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